Until you try to build something for the cat out of them... Then they don't want anything to do with them

Thank you so much!

Absolutely

Thats good to know, thanks for that info

Completely agree , whenever I’m building mounts they get a light dusting of zinc primer then the mating surfaces and also where the heads of bolts go get masked up so the rest of mount can be painted.

Thanks Craig. Feel like we are getting there. Got the adapter remachines and took out 12thou of run out! Might actually be able to get the numbers to work now

Sign of a good machinist to make it perfect regardless of the part.

@@ProjectBrupeg Yeah.....I've been accused of being anal retentive on more than one occasion.

Nice work 👍

It’s relatively easy to get faces parallel on lathes because that geometry relies on the accuracy of the lathe and it’s related wear factors. What’s not as easy is concentricity of various cylindrical components if repositioning is required between setups.

@@davidhtims Even a clapped out lathe will give you parallel faces with a fresh set of bored soft jaws. Concentricity is easy if you have a Buck Chuck but those are far from cheap. And again using a set of freshly cut soft jaws really help. You can also wack the master jaws with a brass hammer to get parts to line up on an old chuck that has a worn out scroll and master jaws.

ca = approximately (circa)

Thanks so much Tommy

Actually reached out to him a while back and he ignored us. So we’ll just carry on and get the job done

Thank you so much for your faith in us. And thank you for your donation for the engine and gearbox. Can’t wait to get them bolted down, it feels so close now

Thanks Bart. Around 18hrs for full cure and zero compression

It must be some amazing stuff! I’m old, back when dirt was new, we aligned engines with steel shims. The really thin ones, 18 gauge, would rust out about every couple of years. I really enjoy watching y’all learn as you go. So with the oil tank, is it for when the engine oil is changed, so multiple oil dumps can be stored before pumping out? Or is it like an oil cooler for the engine? Bet ya never thought Brupeg would have such an absolutely awesome drive system! ⚓😎

Yip, sometimes that happens when everytime you spin the gearbox to measure it the numbers change because a part wasn’t machined correctly.

Thanks Bill

We are a boat that’s powered by our fans

I’ve been watching the resto from the start Brupeg has come along way from what she was after sinking.

Absolutely. Set the adjustment, then lock it in.

I assume he is going to grout it, he explicitly said he is going to grout the transmission mounts, e.g. @44:30 "I want to get my dam in for the Chock Fast", I'd think he do the front mount too, the end of the one screw in the center is providing minimal bearing surface for long term operation, fine for static alignment but not so much for a running diesel engine bouncing through heavy seas.

If money were no issue that would be great. However it’s around 10k for a flex mount system for this vessel.

Yeah we are really sorry about that, we wish we could go much faster but we are grateful and lucky to have so much amazing support, and we are looking forward to what this project can create in the future for everyone. Doing this on a shoestring budget and working as hard as we can is a slow process and we can’t wait to be launched because our costs will go right down and we will be able to do more for the community. Thanks for your feedback, hope your having a nice day. Jess

Ps an average hair on your head is 4 thou some ppl thinner by 1 some ppl thicker by 1 Ive never measured a bees dick but hell a bees dick must be accurate all old machinists use that measurement hahahaha you can see a fly shit on paper so out a fly shit is sometimes not good enough ..

1mm =40 also makes drill selection easy too 1/2 inch =500 thou 1/4 inch = 250 thou 1/8 = 125thou 1/16 =0.0625 thou 1/32 =0.03125 thou 1/64 = 0.0155 [close enough ] im sure you see the pattern I’ve done the young guys are amazed I can pick up a imperial drill and quickly in my head tell them to 1/2 mm accuracy what that imperial drill is … give me a 3/4 drill at a hardware store sorry I haven’t got a 3/4 ok give me a 19 mm close enough hahaha 19 x 40 = 760 ,,, my 40 is slightly big hey 19 x 3937 = 0.748 how much closer than a fly shit must one be ..you be pulling your imperial drill set out looking for that 10.25 tapping drill before you know it …. This is what I do. In my head ok im looking for a 10.25 mm drill 10.25 x40 is 410 thou I know this is already a fly shit big in my conversion .375 is 3/8th too small but if I add 1/32 to 3/8th .375 +.031 = .406 so a 10.25 drill for tapping now becomes imp drill 13/32 or you could even go up a 1/64 and still be ballpark 27/64th …. Please pass this onto the young ones explain the hair on your head is 4 thou 1mm = 40 thou just a fly shit big 1000thou in a inch 1 inch 1/2 inch =500 1/4 =250 1/8th =125 and so forth engineering and its conversions and tolerances made easy … of course the easiest converter for metric to imp and spot on is your digital verniers dial the number lock them off and push the button the fractional size is as previously explained bit of practice you do it all in your head and amaze your friends ..

For this engine it’s around 10k to flex mount, as we are community funded by our Patreons that’s just not an option for us.

Margaux’s visa was up and she went back to France. Carlos was an awesome guy but he wasn’t quite the right fit

It was the 10k price tag for the flex coupling and three mounts sized to the engine

@@ProjectBrupeg oof, yeah, that's a good reason. 😅

No account taken for heat as the temps remain low. Our stern tube is oil cooled to the temp of seawater. But if expansion does happen the shaft can just move backwards a few thou

Bolts are just to clamp it. Alignment is a seperate thing. It must be aligned correctly and then clamped in that position using the bolts

Advice is welcome

Yes the surface needs to be paint free to get an accurate reading. The outer diameter of the prop coupling will have been machined true when it was made it’s it’s practically impossible for it to go oval after that process. So yes it’s possible but unlikely to be out of round

The shaft is axially constrained by the gear box, the only "alignment" shaft expansion would affect would be the sand seal. That might be why he compressed the O-ring by 3mm? But I'd expect the shaft tube and shaft to be at a similar temperature, the shaft might be a little hotter, but I bet it not a huge amount more.

Normally on commercial boats they don’t rubber mount. Solid is the standard method. That said it’s possible to do but costs around 10k for us to go that way