You said it. Perfect!

Thank you.

That's fair but if you aren't a mechanic you're talking about thousands of labor hours every 80k or so miles

Would you like for me to explain exactly why the creator of that engine decided to move the exhaust from the aluminum housings to going out the opposite side of the intake port on the irons? Look into how 2 porting works. My neighbor used to be a outboard motor builder for a Mercury 80 horsepower class race team. They found that if they left the exhaust with a little bit more of a abrupt angle the engine actually made more power on the dyno. Which goes against everything you've ever been told about internal combustion engines! But this is not a normal Auto cycle four stroke. This is a auto cycle four stroke engine with a completely stationary and fixed two stroke induction system. That's why doing porting works wonders unlike on a valved piston engine. Okay I'm going to stop my autistic rant there. Just know that the reason the Renesis makes 238hp N\A because of the multistage induction plenum combined with the right angle engine irons exhaust change. That's 1993 FD twin turbo horsepower out of a more responsive engine. It's really sad that we have all this emissions b******* while corporations are letting stuff just float into the river right now with the train wrecks. The Renesis engine and the RX8 would of turned into something insane if it didn't have a thermal pellet that completely starves the entire engine of oil to pass emissions on cold start and even regular start. If you made it this far. Make yourself some Quicksilver or any other high quality 2 cycle oil 100:1 mix when you're going to fill up. I can promise you from having an 85 FB and a 88 fully built Street ported GTU RX-7 with every possible correct engine modification you can do except for not knocking those pesky things out of the exhaust holes.... Having your fuel injectors squirting lubrication onto your rotating assembly the second year crank it over instead of starving it like they do and even the FC will increase the life of your engine five fold at minimum. Here's the problem with everyone who thinks the oil injection pump is okay if you run the right oil. No matter what oil you buy crankcase oil is specifically designed to do everything in its power not to be burnt. If you can't disable your OIP and go straight to premixing or pulling the fuse on your OIP system controller. even if you pre-mix when you're injecting crankcase oil, at least you'll have some oil in there that will actually help the crankcase oil burn and think of the fact that every start you do up until this point has had completely dry metal on metal 3000 RPM passing emissions damage done to it until that pellet moves out of the way and let the oil go to The eccentric shaft. I'm not saying to drive around like a banshee or a YZ 125 with blue smoke coming out your tailpipe. The only time you will ever see smoke is if it's been sitting which means that all of your internals have had oil on them safe and sound (derp!). Or when you fill up with gas and it's already warm and you have some leaky fuel injectors! I hope you understand I only speak like this because I've had some bad people in my life! I'm truly just speaking from experience and sharing facts. Don't take any of what I said personally. I was once running a freshly bought 85 FB without pre-mixing and about 5,000 miles of spirited driving later it seized!

@@dalebob9364 On no mate, much truth in what you've said there. Good read. I scrapped that stupid thermal pellet the first thing I did and plugged it so that it has consistent oil pressure from the moment it first spins the eccentric shaft. However, I junked the o-ring on the plug that came with my kit, reason being is that you don't want it _completely_ plugged up, you need some oil spray being delivered to the shaft's thrust bearing or it'll disintegrate from overheating. Starving the rotors of oil until they've warmed is pure idiocy and a guranteed way to cause bearing issues, they never should have done that. My understanding with why they moved the exhaust ports to the irons is because of the warping issues in the aluminium casings caused by a centre exhaust port. It's also pretty difficult to make a decent-sized exhaust port that runs well at most rpm's that also doesn't cause accelerated apex seal wear. Moving it to the side solves a lot of these issues, but it also makes the engine struggle to purge out as much of it's exhaust gas/unburnt fuel as possible...hence the flooding issues that are notorious with Renesis motors. Ideally, some combination of both a side and centre exhaust would be great, side for mid rpm's when you're cruising along, with centre opening up via a spool valve at low rpm's/high loads for boosted efficiency. Mechanically a bit complex though, especially for a production engine. I went with running 2-stroke oil through the OMP from a secondary tank, completely isolating the crankcase, mainly because no matter what you do you're going to make carbon deposits. Some of those deposits are good, let's call them _soft_ carbon which is great for helping the apex and side seals actually do their job and is burned out quite naturally so it doesn't grow that much. What you do not want is _hard_ carbon which has been compacted and glued together by burned oil additives...exactly the kind found in any decent crankcase oil. I also wanted to avoid premixing because there's simply no way of controlling the oil delivery percentage when you're contstantly on and off the throttle while you drive. Letting the engine pump 2-stroke through the OMP and adusting it for rpm's+load as required which is what it's designed for seemed like the least of many evils and so far seems to work well enough. Not ideal, true, but it's what we've got. I just wish it wasn't a swine to bleed 😅

You should check out a mechanic named Ernie Brink. He pointed out that the spark plug holes were way bigger than they need to be, which made the engine lose compression and the exhaust temperature high. He also pointed out that it would be great to offset the depression in the rotor. I think this engine has been plagued by deliberate engineering sabotage.

@@ronarmstrong835 Aye, I've seen some of his videos and explanations, really interesting food for thought. I've also seen some technical documents somewhere that detail _why_ the spark plug holes are that size and it's related to ignition timing and cooling of the spark plug, both of which are apparently drastically altered by the diameter of the spark plug hole opening. Wish I could build a test engine and find out. I'm not sure if some of the design choices were intentional, but Mazda had their hands tied by NSU's patents which severely limits how much they can develop the rotary. Until these patents expire, Mazda's engineers will keep banging their heads against walls...but there's absolutely nothing stopping people from developing their engines on their own so long as they keep to within the rules.

Thank you!

Rolls-Royce did build a Diesel Wankel, the 2-R6 prototype back in the 70's. It had two rotors, one twice the size of the other. The big one acted as a supercharger to boost the compression for the smaller one. It wasn't as successful as they hoped. The main problem with increasing compression is that it directly adds more strain on the rather limited shaft bearings and seals, wearing them out until the rotor either starts hitting the casing or the apex seals wear away until they fall out of their grooves and smash up the inside of the rotor casings, both of which are terminally catastrophic. When NSU's patents expire, we may finally get some proper development on the apex and side seals because there's currently no way to get oil to them other than dripping it into the firing chambers, which is a bit idiotic to be honest because any oil that's good for bearings doesn't burn very well at all and jams the seals with gunk. I'd love to see the seals paired up with oil ports in and out in between them, but it is what it is...for now. I've converted mine to run on 2-stroke oil so I can use decent fully-synthetic oil for the engine internals for this reason...improved seal and bearings lifespan..but manufacturers would rather it slowly drain it's engine oil out the exhaust so they can sell you the expensive (but shite) stuff every few months.

It burns oil because having no true “non combusting” side like a 4 stroke, more like a 2 stroke, resulting in similar problems, which is also why you are unlikely to see 2 strokes in street cars.

En repman22

@@repairman22 obrigado, nem tinha percebido que você tinha dois canais :)

But your name is "fire" brand. you must like 🔥