I was surprised to see compression ratio that low. Seems like most with meth run 11+ high as 13

@@michaelwahl9281 It depends on boost levels. The smaller boost levels can run more static compression, higher you run less. Minimum I set it at is 11.5 for HIGH boost levels on Methanol.. more static with less.

His son Anthony is just as passionate and knowledgeable. Hands down MGP over GRP. V gains stole Michael's company. Michael his wife and young son fought back to bring a better product to the world. They put their whole lives into supporting the need for a more robust connecting rod. There are significant improvements that go unnoticed with comparison of the grp vrs the MGP. Testing has proven this.

You would be surprised what you can actually get away with if need be. Most of what people think matters, doesn't in the big picture. The engine just doesn't see what people see most of the time. Walk through the pits of the heavy hitters and watch what they do to fix issues in order to go rounds... you'll be amazed.

@@vengeanceizmine9878 you gotta do what ya gotta do

lol

lol

Sweet

Thanks man, I don't remember if that was the width of mine or not.

@@TurboJohnRacing they look 2.2 ish. Worst case trend can do a custom set for you. They did mine so i have the .2 wall extra. They even put the chamfer in the wire locks. Its just another thing to keep in your mind if the bobweight is off; lot of real strong pin options out there to work the weight up or down as needed

I wouldn't give a s*** long as it works. Lol 😆 🤣 😂

Thanks Scott, I may try some diamonds at some point. It's just hard to pass up the cp bullets, off the shelf with rings and .200 pins (upgrade) for 750 bucks. I love these things. You gotta come over this summer some.

@@TurboJohnRacing sounds like a plan. I could use a nice get away for a weekend of racing. I haven't had one in a while. I've been in the same house for nearly 24 years, and lived in the same town for 50 years. Moving is enough of a shock to the system, but to go to a different city into an area where I know don't know anyone who lives close by ... it's daunting. But for first time in my life I'll have a decent shop that I can fit 4 cars in with room to work and two with lots of space. It's just not tall enough for a lift, which sucks, but it's way better than anything I've ever had, so I'm really excited about it, it's just taking a lot out of me including race car funds. Once I get the old place sold I'll be back to the good, but it's gonna be pretty lean for a few months.

yes sir, at least we have a short off season. Well, they are racing now.....guess we missed the beginning of the never ending season...lol

Hey, we do weekly live chats on Wednesday nights for the members of the channel. We have some great guys on, and have a blast talking drag racing. That is the best way to get some good info about your specific combo.

The engine, turbo, efi and trans out of old car.

boost/m1 combo spring with tad of holley spark

Thanks for the info

I do run a .060-.070 head gasket as well. Piston is pretty much at 0 deck with these.

I should be able to get 2 seasons out of them in my car.

Good point, but you know that over time that imbalance will shorten the life of everything. Better to rebalance

What’s the most affordable way to get things balanced? This is what I’m worried about, considering swapping out to the summit pro ls pistons and rods and stock crank

@@timweb1510 It all comes down to the difference in weights between the old and new components. If the new components are lighter, the balance is easy because they make corrections by drilling the counterweights. If they are heavier, that is where it gets expensive. Typically there is relatively few factory balance holes they can add to correct the imbalance. In the early engines (gen 2 350) you could cheat and make some correction on the harmonic if necessary, but the LS balancer isn't keyed so there is no actual reference to how it is timed on the crank. That leaves installing heavy metal if required, which is cylindrical tungsten slugs press fit in the counterweights as required. (tungsten is roughly double the weight of cast iron) The back of the crank can be corrected on the flexplate so long as it is reinstalled the same way as when it was balanced. (heavy metal can be installed in the back counterweight, but that likely requires removing the crank reluctor wheel, more work. I'm afraid that all you can do is find a local shop that does balancing and give you an estimate on the cost, maybe call them first, they might want a sample of the old rod and piston and the new rod and piston to get an idea of the different component weights. If this becomes cost prohibitive, sometimes it's cheaper to get a forged stroker crank and the appropriate rods and pistons since most of the time they have enough counterweight to balance without heavy metal. Good luck!!

@@yarrdayarrdayarrda since it's not an ls, most of the issues you speak of are not relevant.

@@krustymudracer Since Tim was questioning me about his LS engine, all the issues I speak of are relevant.

Thanks man, I hope we don't need any. lol.......

it's 50/50 for me.....sometimes it works, sometimes I have to do the work twice.

I'm hoping two seasons

@@TurboJohnRacing oh wow more than I thought. Thanks

I was just about to type all that lol

Michael made significant improvements from his original GRP rods to the beefy MGP design. GRP is like windows 98 for your motor

I ran the GRPs in my 565 spraying 500 with no issues

Brad Appel I disagree with your recommendation of Calico. I sent them a set of New headers for their coating and they haven't been installed yet. They've been stored in a dry climate controlled environment and after 17 months the coating is starting to fail/flake off.

@@erikalston4496 I personally have not had there ceramic coatings for headers or turbo manifolds. All of the engines I have been around that use there coatings for bearings and pistons hold up really well for years. As I said I can't not speak for there ceramic coatings. I hear you though.

I’m planning on 200ish, since it’s gonna be lower power

@@TurboJohnRacing “200ish since it’s gonna be low horsepower” well I call BS on the low horsepower lmbo John...YOU CANT CON A CON😝😝 Low horsepower my freakin ass!! That’s the GRUDGE & N/T racing in you lol idk if I could see 100 to 120 but 200🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️ I’d keep an eye on my filter around 90 on.cant wait to see the new car rolling at the track💯

lol, whats funny is I was running it with the light rods. I put those things in, in a pinch, with intentions of taking them out at 6 months but instead ran them a year longer, lol

Dang, that sucks

@@CoRuPtStudios Huh? They're not anywhere close to that expensive.

@@Sixguns1 No they are not misunderstood the pricing per unit on Butler $1300 a set is not bad.

The water from the meth would scare me away from L19s. Hydrogen embrittlement is a real thing. Little moisture on you hands is one thing but all that moisture in the oil from the meth is another. ARP site has good info on the different rod bolt materials. I run arp2000s now but plan to move up to the 625+ bolts once switching to meth.

Thanks for the explanations, it is crazy that they can just fail. The instructions said to torque to 90ft lbs. That's a ton.

@@TurboJohnRacing damn mine were 80 on a steel rod lmao. 90? Thats insane. Wonder if it has to do with the bearing retaining pin

@@TurboJohnRacing but yeah i have never heard of them failing, think that's really something that only can start during manufacturing