Hehe, awesome!! Play at 0.25 speed people.

Cover of my last sex tape 🤔 I was like wtf

I agree!! No way can I do a front lever, but I’m sure my L sit would’ve given out in another 10 or 15 seconds- maybe some overlap could occur with more time on L sit

@@AnnaHazelnutt Well, there is our flexibility test! I can’t do an L sit for flexibility reasons… 😅

I cannot do L sit for 20 sec, but can do front lever

@@Mylada Yeah they are completely different muscle groups to do each, but also that's wild man, you got some strong ass back/shoulder muscles

I think the test overemphasises pulling strength and underemphasises finger strength

That's amazing progress to be doing 6c with just a few months of training! Actually, I've been climbing again for about 6 weeks doing 2 sessions per week and averaging between 6B to 6B+ 😊

As far as we can tell, this is still her body, agreed.

Or the 8b+-Route she did was very much her style!

Thank you 🙏🏽 stay tuned for my longer vid here on this channel too :)

😂 it must be okay!

Hahaha that would be epic. Trying to get to the bottom of it myself 😅 not quite sure why I’m so “weak” but can still pull hard!

I agree!

Lolll 😂

ah yeah! I think it would also depend on what type of route one pursues- I tend towards longer routes with less physical cruxes

This is very common when boulders try sport climbing. That has (almost) nothing to do with endurance, and everything to do with proper climbing technique. Sport climbers focus on minimum energetic effort for each move, try to be as relax as possible, have many techniques to optimize leg effort vs arms effort, etc.... Bouldering is not about minimum energetic effort, it's about maximum effort during very few moves. 2 different sports.

@@mr0totonio This is so very true!

Absolutely. I‘m pretty sure everyone else did the test after simply warming up, not after climbing all day :D

Hahaha you may be right 🤔😂 I think a lot of people in the comments assume if I can full crimp well, then my half crimp should also be stellar- but this just isn’t the case. Especially when I’m not training! My half crimp is my weakest hold

Kinda makes sense but really surprising. Half crimp is normally everyone's go to! Also congrats on once upon a time, that's a serious way to start a ukc log book ;) . Don't know how long you're in the UK, but go to Pembroke !!!

Yeah this test definitely has its flaws 😂 if there was a flexibility portion I’d definitely rack up points there and potentially make a full comeback haha

@@AnnaHazelnutt Oh yes! That’d be a great addition. Also this crazy hand-eye coordination thing, or rather all-extremities-and-their-momentum-eye coordination thing, that is so important for coordination dynos. I’m also really bad at that. ^.^'

I do! It’s the climb called galactic emperor in ten sleep. The video is on my channel 💫

i dont think its meant to be a perfect science either, its just a good test to give you a general idea of where u are strenght wise, and its also a good test to see how much you improve over time etc, doing the test after 6 months again and so on.

That's because you do not need that much leg strength and our legs are much stronger than our arms. Everyone can squat but not everyone can do pullups. If you are not that heavy you can get easily within 2 or 3 month enough strength to do one leg squats (for pistol squats for most people the limiting factor is flexibility and not strength). But you need years of training to do one arm pullups. This test doesn't mean you can climb 9c if you got enough points. It just means that you are strong enough. To climb a certain grade you need 3 things - strength (that is tested here) - flexibility/mobility - technique/experience When I have been able to boulder 6a (Fontainebleau scale) I dare to say that my legs have been really strong. I could easily do several pistol squats. Back then a lack of upper body - especially finger strength - and mobility have been holding me back.

​@@PeterLE2 agreed although I don't think I have good genetics within like 4 months of training at home I saw the pistol squat and did it in a couple of tries and I'm quite good at skipping legs lol although I did play a lot of basketball when I was younger so that could have been a factor

i can bang +50lb pullups for 5 reps but cant generate any force from a high foot position to save my life, leg activation and flexibility are REALLY important in high grade steep climbing

Yeah- my thoughts too! I wasn’t training at all, just climbing a single slab for a month haha. Now I’m starting to hangboard a little and do some conditioning and after only a week I’m sure I can hang much more already.

A non climber who climbs 7a+.. Me as a 6a climber is very impressed haha.

Yeah! I think if I started training for a few weeks I’d see huge improvements (maybe a bit optimistic, but I feel like I’d be closer to my actual climbing grade if I trained first)

@@AnnaHazelnutt It great that your a better route climber than your powergrade though.... Showing technique over power !! I have been working on technique this summer, Cant believe I only started using heal cams a few months ago....... I also try to find a way to use the lease amount of hand and arm strength now although still resort back to power when I a getting tried.....

I’ve decided it’s more of a body positioning thing for me- climbing mainly slabs and vertical faces, my extreme flexibility let’s me take a ton of weight off my fingers! Just a theory

@@AnnaHazelnutt what grade can you moonboard on 40 degree overhang? i climb 7a on it with a score of 24

@@AnnaHazelnutt I'd love to see you do this test again better rested. I can't belief your finger strength result I was expecting at least 130%!

Wild country!

I'm interested what happened there. 120% is incredibly weak.

Yeah I’m not actually as strong as people think! When I started hangboarding in lockdown, I could only hang 3 seconds from the lattice 20mm with my body weight! So 120% for me now, untrained and after climbing, actually feels *incredibly strong* for me

My thoughts exactly.

Ah interesting! It’s probably a mix of things including that I wasn’t training at all, I had just climbed for at least 5 hours on limit problems, and the lattice ring being a bit more difficult

@@AnnaHazelnutt came on, Anna! That's unfair, you have to redo the test well rest 😂

😂 maybe after training a bit too I can do an update hahaa

Yes. Would be very interesting to see you perform to you’re real ability’s on this. And if you don’t get to you’re 8b maybe trying to figure out which test could be added to complete the test. Some flexibility test maybe? Or some contact strenght test?

Do you project much? Because it sounds like you're really well established at your current grade and could likely climb harder if you put the time into a single route

This test tells you about your maximal potential on routes that suits you the most. There is lots of hard routes without crimps, or without need to pull up. Your proposition would tell about minimal difficulty that one shoudl be able to do on every route. That also could be useful, mostly for begginers, but it had to calibrated completely differently.

I agree that my closed grip is much better- but my half crimp hang is actually pretty much what you see here! Started training this a bit in lockdown and started off with 3 seconds just body weight on 20mm. This is when I was able to send 8a+ with closed crimping. I actually am quite proud of my progress and this is a really good score for me

@@AnnaHazelnutt Good point. Half crimp is not a necessity if you always full crimp and it's really a different grip. Strength doesn't translate that well across grips if you don't use them, imo. I'm the opposite. Good half to open crimp but terrible full crimp. Anyway, nice vids and good luck on your progress 🙃

no simply the test is not accurate.

What is 'climbing ability'? At a certain level you will need strength to climb those routes. There is just no way to avoid this. The harder a problem is the more defined it usually is. If there is just a nasty one finger pocket at the crux then you have to be able to hold it if you want to climb that route. She is a pretty good climber but if she wants to climb harder like 8c or even 9a then she has to gain strength.

@@PeterLE2 that is true, however I feel like a lot of people who start climbing want to focus on gaining strength as soon as possible. She got a lower strength result that her actual climbing grade which speaks very highly of her technique and head game. I did the test as well and got a score way above the grade I will ever be able to climb! Although strength is important I do think headgame and climbing technique will take a climber further especially in sport climbing.

Almost :) Expected more finger strength, and less pull up power.

ACTUALLY JUST ONE CUP IN THE MORNING hahaha I think climbing just gets me really energized 😂

Lmao I didn’t even think once about the hair in her pits til she pointed it out. Why people care so much about pit shaving is beyond me. Personal preference, sure. But anybody telling anybody else to shave their pits is like…really inappropriate and weird imo. That’s be like me telling you to shave your head. Or something

Yeah this one isn’t based on much data haha. Or any, rather. But still a fun little thing to do

@@AnnaHazelnutt I think that's a bit unfair on the test. It isn't Magnus's test, I believe it was developed by Norwegian climbing coaches (iirc Magnus's video) including the former head climbing coach for the Norwegian team. Its been around for 5 or more years so I reckon they'll have data to back it up. I'm sure the lattice test is more comprehensive but I think it's a useful, easily replicated, test for climbers to see at least if they should be considering upping their technique or strength training.