Thank you Kevin👍👍

Hi Leo. This was my first attempt to copper a model and much has been learnt since i did this. The main one is that if you cant use plates that are actual scale then it should not be done. The second point is that the plates should overlap and only show one set of rivets , if indeed you should show the rivets at all. Depending on the scale of the model you are building the ones supplied by the model retail suppliers are not in scale and should not be used. I am not sure if i will ever copper a model again and if i do i would get brass paper and cut each to scale and i would show no rivets. You are correct that the tiles should overlap. In using paper, PVA glue would work just fine to apply the plates to the model. In the case of these brass tiles, only epoxy would hold up over time. You could use 5 minute or 1/2 hour depending in how much you mix at a time. Good luck to you sir.

Many thanks for posting this video. It is very helpful as I will soon start copper plating my Cutty Sark. What epoxy do you use? 30 or 5 minutes? Is there a reason why you do not overlap your tiles? keep up your great work. thanks again

Great video. I too am doing my first copper plating. I'm building the Victory model Vanguard. After trying several different adhesives, I found the Locktite Super Glue Altra was the best, due to it having a fine applicator and a control squeeze. You pointed out very well the need for close attention to the formation of the tiles... because they are engineered, one tiny fraction can mess the the whole thing up. When i fist started I amassed a small pile of removed tile😃 The other good thing you pointed out was the thin wood strip at the waterline. Thankfully I did that at the outset and saved myself all the trouble of trying to get a clean copper plate finish at the waterline. I enjoy watch your work very much. Thank you

How do you protect the copper in order to avoid the oxidation?