Glad to know I am not the only one who has to do a few things several times before it is "restored" -- like the electrical connectors here. Real life restoration served up weekly. Thanks gentlemen.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it, so much in fact that as soon as I get a minute I am gonna' go back thru the videos and "Like" every single one.... I would also like to mention that it is great that you guys get to have the "O-team" around, being a southerner I have much respect for the "old timers", sometimes they do know everything...ha. Look forward to future "episodes" when the O-team may have the opportunity to make an appearance! Take care of one another!

Good points Mad. The American Autowire system comes with the fusable link on the Alt wire and the main. We have both a ground from the battery (same size as the main battery supply wire) and a good engine ground. We might do an episode in the future and hit on these.

Open Barrel we do like to solder; especially in light of what we had happen. And with the O-Teams 100 year old solder set up we like to solder anything that doesn't move away quick enough. LOL

The harness is the '65-'66 PN: 510125. The harness has the leads that the hood turn signal harness plugs into on it. It also has the leads for fastback courtesy lights, fog lights and electric choke...Like George from the "O Team" always says, easier to have it than to need it and add it! =)

We're just glad that you and others are watching Sixty!

alot helpful info. guys.thanks for all the great videos! !!

We appreciate the kind words Dave, And he laughed out loud at the Honey Boo Boo reference then walked off grumbling about having that kind of viewership. The Block info on a 302 is usually up behind where the starter is. They use the '60s Alpha-Numeric coding. There is a date code above the Engine designation: 9B7> Year:9 Month: B Day: 7 It would be above a designation code like: C8OE-6015A We're based in Aiken, SC.

Great video

The correct crimpers will make a really nice tight connection. I like to loop the end of the wire back, and crimp once, then do the insulated part of the wire, then for safety, crimp the first part again. It's habit after doing thousands of stereo installations into cars. I like Utilux Crimpers, made here in NZ. Solder is a good idea in theory, but in some situations, like where the crimp isn't tight, it can mechanically fail (high vibrations, salt water marine applications).

The good news is, it makes your semi truck-style roof light wiring a lot easier!

take the current away (unless it's really underway, in which case, bring marshmellows). Also, I always wire a fuse link on the output of the alternator. Again, habit. One more thing, make sure you run a big assed ground wire to your chassis from the battery, and a big assed ground from chassis to engine.

I always crimp and solder larger wires, anything from 8 Gauge upwards - high current applications like alternator or starters can see increased resistance (and heat) with loose terminals - check out Mark 4 Volkswagens for this specifically, just about every one of those seems to have a melted area in their distribution boxes. Finally, I like to run a battery release on the negative post (habit) so you can disconnect the battery without tools in an instance. Electrical fires will stop once you

Yes.

We're working on one where Bill gets a bit part holding a template...he told us "That was hardly worth putting a mic on for..." grumpy old men...

Interesting that the kit has the hood turn signal connectors for a '67 Mustang, when the '67-'68 harness is a separate part number. I assume you're using 510125 which is '65-'66 only.

I installed the one wire converter on my 70 mustang. I used the American auto wire harness for the whole car. When I run the car my alternator is putting out anywhere from 12-18 volts depending on the RPMs is this normal?! I’m afraid I’m going to cook the battery!

I have a 1960 chevy bel air its has a generator I put a one wire alternator and the car wont start what am I doing wrong thanks

The autowire kit relocates the fuse box correct?

Ok I subscribe. I have a 1960 chevy bel air with a 283 powerglid trannyI put a one wire alternator and I eliminate the regulator but I go to start the car and I ain't getting no power what am I doing wrong thanks

didn't I mention I liked to solder the connectors after crimping them previously and got a bit of guff about it? Hmmm seems it was a good idea afterall

Do you have the update for the 65 mustang wiring harness. Is there more to it or is it just episode 122, 123, 124,and 125. Thanks

link to 1 wire external regulator. www.npdlink.com/store/products/conversion_kit_one_wire_alternator-101037-0.html

Well you know I was bustin' his chops, I dig the channel I am not a mechanic, I remember just enough to screw it up so the channel has helped me out more than once. I am currently workin' through a 55' Fairlane with I believe a 60 something mustang 289/302..the Ford specific info helps a lot, Ford cars that is. Which I was wondering is there a way to determine the year on a mustang block? I am a southerner myself from Georgia and know something about South Cakalacky. Are you guys in Georgia?

Jamie, contact us on on our web page (link is in the "about" section above and we will try and help with this.

have you called american autowire about that dimmer switch problem?, im soon to order a harness from them and love to see that problem properly fixed? if not i can call them, thanks for the videos

Guys, AAW does not recommend soldering the hand crimped terminals. At least, they haven't since I installed my first AAW harness in 2003. The terminals are Packard 56 Series terminals, common in GM cars from the 50-80's, and they take 2 specific crimp tools to do the whole job. The second tool is for dual wire crimps usually only found on one set of headlight terminals. AAW will rent or sell you the correct Delphi crimp tools. (kinda pricy). There are cheaper 56 Series crimpers available that will work, but they take some practice and "feel" to get right. (I tried a few of them to avoid spending $$ on the Delphi tools) The Delphi crimpers work the best and are the most "new guy" friendly if this is the first time you've done the job. If you're going to spend $500-1200 on a quality harness kit, spend the money to rent the correct crimp tools. You get it all back when you return the tools. Yeah, it sucks to tie up ~$150 to borrow the tools, but they are the right tools to do the job right.

What did you do with the bulb sockets for the old gauge cluster?

We have the 67 fastback so what is the wire for that you tucked away because your car is not a fastback..If you guys are interested we, My better half and I, would enjoy your help as we go along with the work on the car, I cant tell you how much we enjoy your vids and will be using them as a guide for us to get parts and do the work. Hell if you want to contact me maybe you might want to use the car for your show but if not than we need all the vids you have about a 67 mustang...fastback or not...Thanks again guys and to everyone that had anything to do with making your Vids. GREAT JOB THANKS!

11:15 that's good enough.. 14:05 That's NOT GOOD ENOUGH lol

Thanks boys. But I'm still confused man. Is the regulator in line some where down the line? Sweioule ly

Well guys I am doing a (GEN) to (one-wire ALT) conversion on a 1964 Ford Fairlane w/ 260 V8 and just getting the Alt mounted correctly has been about a 16 hour job to figure out and I am going to tackle the wiring tomorrow. Every research source that I have found says that I can simply abandon my REG and just run an 8ga wire from my ALT to my POS+ on my solenoid. Well first of all what do they mean by "abandon the old wiring?" Some sources say that I should take the wires off of the three terminals on my old regulator and simply tie them all together? Does this sound right to any of you? Some sources tell me to just remove the three wires from my old regulator and tape them up separately ... If anyone has any advice on this please help me.. Tomorrow I plan to run an 8ga wire from my new 1-wire alt to my POS+ solenoid and I am going to see what happens without touching my old reg.. If that doesn't work then I am going to try disconnecting all three regulator wires?? And if that doesn't work I am going to try to tie all three regulator wires together??? I just hope I don't burn my car to the ground! hahaha

LOL no that would be YOUR semi Truck wiring Jev...

LOL no he doesn't even have cable TV! Southern phrases occasionally will pass his lips due to his being, as he puts it, from "South Cakalacky". No, we don't understand either.

Did you ever get your front parking / turn signal lights to work? You mentioned that the black wire on the parking light assembly was the ground, but instead it should be attached to the incoming brown 12v parking wire in the AAW Kit. www.americanautowire.com/view-faq/im-wiring-my-1964-66-mustang-after-market-replacement-parking-light-assemblies-and-the-wire-color-codes-on-the-after-market-parking-light-assemblies-do-not-match-the-american-autowire-510125/

Jeff said..."hot mess"... twice... have you been watching "Honey BooBoo"?

I'm talking about 72 Ford e200 van with a blueprint 302 crate engine. The jammie inside the stock distributor..suckk within the first 5 miles of break in session. No spark. At plug's.? Man I thought it was everything man . Ground. Block. ?? Dudnt know. Went to Napa. TheMan said 536.. dallas for a new distributor. Pertronix. I said I gonna go to advanced man. Pleitez do not make me do it. Guys all I did after a bunch of desk jockeys told me to buy there products. I bought a simple jammie in the rack for 41.00 Dallas and rax. Pertronix clip jam. They say to have a spare...sorry . And fun duu I texxin turned out to be the jammie under the roter from advanceauto. That fixed the problem

Enough with the talking , giggling BS already, get on with it . We get enough of this crap on the Velocity channel