Awesome, I'm glad it helped. :)

Thanks!! Weather is getting better every day. :)

Yeah, there is usually some great additional info in the comments. :)

Awesome! I'm glad you're able to pull some value from my videos. :)

No problem, happy to help. It's always great to hear people are finding value form my videos. :)

Nice. What's next on your list so I can do that video too? :)

Yeah, that's one of the main reasons I'm upgrading, I want to make sure I'm creating the amperage that future upgrades may need. :)

Awesome, thanks for the support! :)

Thanks!!

Awesome, you've got this! :)

I appreciate that!

No mumbling…. lol.

No problem!!

Thanks! Yeah, I should have just done this to begin with, it would have saved me a few bucks. :)

Yeah, I completely spaced that these Alts could be clocked, and thinking back, it would have been easier to do that. I ended up needing to replace my Alt belt, so I went with the next size up and it pivoted the Alt out a pinch more and now I wouldn't need the boot on the terminal. :)

Yeah, I've put AAW down on the list for when I get around to rewiring the car. :)

Painless20120 22 circuit kit was going to order it, what part number for AAW? TIA

Yeah, this is what I should have done. But instead I got impatient and ended up with what I have. Oh well, I needed a new Alt belt anyways so when I bought it I got the next size up, which pivots the Alt a little more and now that terminal is not as close to the block. But you're right, I should have clocked the back of the housing. :)

Keep posting those videos

Welcome! That's one thing that is cool about this hobby, there's usually a great story to go with the build. :)

Awesome! This is a super simple upgrade that truly is plug-n-play. Sometimes I wish other upgrades were as effective and simple. :)

A higher amperage Alternator will help charge the batteries faster, ultimately keeping them at peak charge most of the time. But I'm not sure if that is going to change any hot start issues you may be having. A one-wire Alt will simplify your electrical setup, so it may help with troubleshooting electrical issues. :)

Final price of the Alternator? I put the part number in the description below for people to look it up because 5 years from now the price won't be what I said it was and I don't want to mislead people. :)

Thanks!

Thank you!!

Nice!

Thanks! I'm setting all these pins for you to knock down with your build. :)

Thanks 👍 I wish I could take credit for the plug wires, but after seeing how the boys over at Prestige Motorsports Inc do their plug wires, I had to copy them. :)

Not likely. The reason is not the voltage source, but the amperage your fan will consume may be too much for that wire and the circuit it's on. I'd recommend a dedicated circuit for a fan. :)

Yeah, everyone has their way they like doing things, and there’s nothing wrong with adding a ground wire. 🙂

I agree that a dedicated ground wire from alternator to block is best; it doesn't need to be anything special and you probably wouldn't even see it. Counting on the bracket fasteners to complete the ground is not ideal and could raise grounding resistance/cause issues etc. It usually says that in the instructions manual too as I recall. But a fresh alternator is nice peace of mind. Cool video!

Why if the alternator internally grounded, assuming the block itself is grounded properly?@Matt Cornett

Thanks!

@@Donny.C.wlWilliams as I understand it, the ground is through the body of the alternator and then to the block, then the body and then back to the battery. I spoke with Powermaster directly about this and they said it wasn’t needed but is a good idea. The Powermaster alternator I installed was a one wire 140amp. It has a post on the back for grounding as an option. I wanted to be certain that all of the amperage was returning back to the battery and not getting bottlenecked by weak connections. Also since I added a fuel injection system, I wanted to make all grounds were upgraded. So my block to firewall grounding strap was upgraded as well. Better to have more grounding than is needed as opposed to less.

@Matt Cornett so we agree u just went above and beyond no problem there! Thanks

Yeah, I like these easy upgrades too. :)

Obrigado! Um dia você vai conseguir seu carro, basta continuar trabalhando pelo seu sonho. :)

That 75A would be fine for my current setup. However, as I continue to upgrade, replace, mod, and change the car, I want to have the amperage for anything electrical I add down the road. Some people have more and less electrical requirements than me, so if someone already had a 75A Alt, it might be fine. Otherwise, here's a video on swapping to a one-wire, regardless of amperage. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel yeah I'll also be running an efi pump and holley terminator x max kit so we will see lol

Thanks! Nope, same GoPro I've had for a while. Sometimes I forget to adjust the resolution during editing, maybe this time I got it right? :)

You're welcome!

No problem. 🙂

It's great to hear more success stories with the AAW, I just wish it was something that didn't require so much time. Oh well, I cause good things come to those who wait. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I think a person could probably get it done in 2-3 days if you had the time to just focus on wiring for the whole day. The problem I’m running into is having three young kids so I have to start and stop a lot and having to order parts along the way. The kit is really nicely organized into specific areas, front, rear, engine, and main dash and gauge so you can do it in sections. I’m doing Dakota Digital gauges at the same time. I sound like a AAW salesman - lol! Good luck!

Yeah, you never know what might happen down the road. :)

Not so Advance auto parts sells one wire Alt. Have done it !!

Thanks! Sort of, I did a video last December where I did a few things to clean up the engine bay before I got my new engine back from my builder. I talk about what I did with the starter solenoid and I show where everything is wired, but I didn't set up the camera and do a time lapse because it took a few hours. But the meat of it is in that "Cleaning up the Engine Bay" video. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel i like it! thanks!

Thanks for the heads up. :)

Yeah, I didn't know until after I was done that it can be clocked, I may go back and fix that. I have that belt squeak you're talking about. I am looking into a better tensioner system for the Alternator since I can't quite seem to get it perfect. I may also swap over to a serpentine, 6 groove, style belt, but we'll see. That circuit breaker is a generic 200A unit off ebay. I paid about $10 for it.

@@AndyKruseChannel It's potato/potAHto with clocking the housing. The way you did it works fine and hides the wire completely. If you clock it you'll see the + wire, so it's really okay either way. Inspect that insulator boot periodically. Personally I would add a dedicated ground to the alternator, in case you ever add any electronics like an upgraded stereo, aftermarket EFI, etc. Again, it's all about personal preference. You MAY get rid of the squeal with a different tensioner but I think you will find that there is simply too much load on a single V-belt. You could switch to a serpentine or 6 groove, or a double V-belt. I went with the double-V because it still has that old-school look, while dividing the load between two belts (and in the event of one belt failing, I can probably still get home). My car doesn't have AC, PS, or a mechanical fan, so my belt system is as basic as it gets: Crank/alt/water pump!

I am not familiar with an alternator fuse, but I am also not familiar with older Chevy trucks either. I am sorry that I'm not much help on this one, but maybe you've got another issue I could help with? :)

Because the way it's mounted provides a ground. Otherwise, Powermaster would make it so it wouldn't run without a dedicated ground. :)

It’s from a ‘99 Ford Contour, and it is fantastic. I made a video about it a while back.

Yeah, I didn't pay attention to that part.

I have replaced the gauges in my dash and I put in a (more useable) Voltmeter instead of the ammeter that was in the stock cluster. So I don't have any issues there. As far as how a one-wire alternator install would go in your car, I don't know enough about it to know if it's as easy as my car, but I suspect your car had an external voltage regulator like mine did. For me it really was as simple as install and go. :)

It’s a generic 200A unit I bought off eBay. Still works great, no issues. 😁

Just a normal OEM-style dipstick, part number C5ZZ-6750-K. I got it off eBay for about $30.

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. I have a 7 quart pan. Didn’t see one of them recommended for it so wasn’t sure what to buy

@@jeeplifted1 One thing to point out, while my pan holds more oil than normal, it's still the same depth. My pan has those "wings" on it to make more room for oil, so the dipstick still sits at the correct depth to read correctly. If your pan is deeper than a normal pan, the dipstick may not ready correctly. :)

No, thank you!! :)

Not sure, it's probably black magic. :)

The purpose of the resistor wire is to provide limited voltage to the ignition coil so you don't burn out the Points in the ignition. This would happen over time, not instantly. If you have new (or old) Points, double check the gap is PERFECT, as I had this problem once and decided to just skip all that and get electronic ignition (like the Pertronix 1281). So bypassing the resistor wire is not likely the issue, so we can check that off the list. I'm guessing you didn't add a one-wire Alt because you said new alternator harness. I have not dug into this harness to know enough about the connections, but I do know that harness connects to the dash and other electrical components. For example, the Black wire with Yellow stripe is critical (comes off the Alt) and the Green wire with Red stripe is critical (comes of the Alternator Regulator mounted on the Radiator Core Support). Those two wires (really all the wires from the Alt and the Alt Reg) need to be routed correctly and connected to their correct locations. Maybe find a wiring diagram online for your year and start tracing wires? You can do continuity tests to make sure there isn't a break in the line somewhere. You say you're getting gas, so check that off. You say you're getting spark, but something isn't right here. It turns over, but doesn't fire, so we can eliminate the starter. Is there a wire from the ignition switch to the Coil? Is the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid connected to the Coil? It's tough to help without being there and knowing what got replaced and where the wires are. :)

Correct, your cam is the key. I was fortunate that my engine builder reminded me, otherwise I would have organized the spark wires incorrectly. You should be able to look up the cam and see if it specifies which firing order. For mine, it references the Windsor firing order, as in 351W, not the 289/302 order. Good luck! :)

Yep. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g7KCn91p09XSYWQ.html

Not really, just time consuming. I've got a few videos on what all was done to make it work, you should check them out. :)

Yeah, I thought about it, but it's been fine for a few weeks now. :)

I have very limited knowledge, but it sounds like you have a bad unit. However, there may be a wiring issue down stream causing the problem, so unfortunately I'm not going to be much help on this one. :)

The large bolt on top that secures the alternator to the head.

eBay, it's a 200A circuit breaker. I paid about $10 for it. :)

I had zero issues, car fired right up. Unfortunately I do not know how your F250 is wired, but your friend may be correct, you might have taken something out that was critical. On my car, the wire harness to the Alt and the Voltage Regulator on the core support (near the radiator) was all I removed. I left the wiring for now as I plan to do a whole new wire harness down the road. In your setup, maybe you can put everything back in, but just not hook up the harness to the Alt and see if that does the trick. :)

1-5/8" spacer.

No, it was a generic unit I purchased off eBay. It’s a 200A breaker, so that should help when you’re looking for it. 🙂

Found on video moving batteray to trunk Thanks@@AndyKruseChannel

Not sure of how your Alt is wired in your Caprice, but a one-wire would install the same on all vehicles, with the positive lead off the back of the Alt going to the positive battery terminal. :)

@AndyKruseChannel on the back .. the ground and power wire is bolted down together .. and on the top side there's a plug plugged in..

My reasoning for a 347 over the 331 (aside from the additional TQ and HP) was that when it's all said and done, the dollar difference is almost negligible. It would have been somewhere around $500-$1000 cheaper for me to do the 331, which is still a nice chunk of money, but I'd do it the same every time. That extra grunt from this build is what you feel and that smile it generates is easily worth double! :)

It's been a while, if I recall, it's running off the ignition in the dash. :)

Zero issues. 🙂

@@AndyKruseChannel Aye I saw that, maybe it's because it's missing the spacer (that you already had)? Only thing I can think of. That specific alt is a lot cheaper than the others so I want to run it too haha.

Hmmm, not sure if it's a problem with that one-wire, or a problem with you wiring, but I have not had any issues. :)

I do, it runs from the back of the Alt down below the engine and over to the starter solenoid. It’s a one-wire Alternator so everything is internal to the Alt. 🙂

Off eBay, it’s a generic 200A unit. 🙂

That's difficult advice to give without knowing what is happening when trying to start the motor. You need air, fuel, and spark, but air is an easy one to check off the list because I doubt that air is not getting into your engine. Lack of fuel could be bad fuel, dirty filter, fuel pump is damaged or broken, and the jets could be clogged. Assuming all that stuff is fine, then spark is the last one. You mentioned you changed the distributor, but did you install it correctly and is the timing set correctly? That's a whole conversation, and there's a ton of videos to walk you through it. If your distro has Points, are they set correctly? Are the plugs wires routed in the correct firing order and to the correct plugs? Are the plugs gapped correctly? Is your coil working (you can test this by removing a plug and hold it to the block to see if there's spark when you try to start the motor). If the motor was running fine before but it's not after something was changed, I'd start there and see if that change is working correctly. If you've gone through the whole list and you're able to determine it's none of that stuff, it might be something internally that's not right, and from there it's a bigger process. Again, it's difficult to know what's wrong without knowing more about what's not happening when you try to fire up the engine. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the fast reply, if i try to start it it does take atleast 4-5 try´s each 5-6sec + pumping fuel with the gas pedal to start it. When the motor is warmed up it starts without a problem. All the changes i did where done with the 1966 shop-repair manual so i double checked every step. After all those changes it did not change a thing works like before, all those wires and timing are correct. Anyways thanks again

@@Dekoan01 Cool, sounds like we can rule out air and spark. If your carb doesn't have a choke or if it's not working correctly, this could play a role. You may want to review the idle adjustment and see if you can get to the best lean-idle condition. Also, if you're over fueling the motor by pumping too much during start, it can get flooded and not be happy. One thing that can work is to just hold the throttle down while turning the key and then let go once it fires up. Be careful though, if you wait too long on the throttle during this part, you can really rev the engine up quickly and cause damage. :)

Nah, I don’t care for chrome.

The chrome peeled off mine so it's half black and chrome.

There is no measurable performance advantage, or any advantage that I can think of other than going for the "less is more" look under the hood. I don't want to go full wire-tuck mode on this car, but I do want to simplify and clean up what's under the hood. Now that the battery is in the trunk, that solenoid looks kind of weird sitting by itself on the fender apron, so I moved it back a bit, to get it out of the way. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Ok that makes sense. Have you had any problems with the one wire alternator and do you think it was a good modification or upgrade?

ok

You can if you want.

I almost got the black Alt, and half the time when I look in the engine bay I wish I would have. Cool, I think it's awesome that you're building your project with a lot of the same parts. Hopefully my videos provide you with enough info to get'r done! :)

It's the stock fan for a 1999 Ford Contour. Yes, I'd buy it again. I have a video on my channel about the install. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel how tall is it? I only have 2.6 inches of clearance in my 65 Ranchero.

Everything has been great. The alternator is doing exactly what I need and I am not having any voltage issues. The two biggest reasons I wanted to go one-wire was because it reduces the amount of wires I have under the hood (a theme I've been working on since I purchased the car) and when I rewire the car with the AAW kit, it will be required. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I am currently installing the AAW kit in my 1968 Mustang Shelby GT500KR tribute.

The wire off the back of the Alternator goes to the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid where the Battery Wire attaches. I point at that terminal at the 10:13 mark. :)

I’m sorry forgot to mention I doing a 1 wire conversion.

@@reyzapata9375 I think the confusion I am having is the red and brown wires that attach to the starter solenoid are not part of the upgrade when installing a one-wire alternator (which is what I am doing in this video). If you're asking a separate question about what wires need to attach to the solenoid and you're not doing this alternator upgrade, then I would say leave those wires attached. The red wire goes to the factory Ammeter gauge (which probably doesn't work anyway, they always fail), from the solenoid through the wiring harness that attaches to the firewall. The brown wire goes from the solenoid to the positive side of the Coil, and it also goes through the firewall and connects to your key ignition switch. 🙂

Ok thank you for your advice it helps.!.

I don't know what I'm going to do with it yet. :)

Yes, this will work on your 6 cyl, but you may need to chase down a specific part number as the mounting location, mounting depth, pulley size, pulley depth, etc all play a role in which specific unit you purchase. You don't necessarily need to know all those specs, you just search by finding which specific model is made for your engine and model year. The specifics about the wiring will more or less be the same. The simplest part is you can just unplug all the stuff attached to the back of your current alternator and leave it, if you want. The new Alternator will just have a single wire that will go to the battery post on your starter solenoid. Other than getting the model that fits your engine, the other factor is the amperage it generates. You may find a lower amperage one-wire is a better fit, like a 75A instead of the 100A I have here. I have had good luck with PowerMaster, that's what I have here, so I continue to use them. I believe Tuff Stuff is a competitor, and I think if if I was to get a 75A unit, I'd get one of theirs because PowerMaster doesn't seem to have one for my car.

@@AndyKruseChannel TY for the response :) I just subbed to the channel :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Just ordered a Tuff Stuff 7068. :D

@@AndyKruseChannel Question, is it required to keep the external voltage regulator plugged in? I removed mine but maybe that was a mistake...

@@ceelo3324 You can leave it bolted to the core support, and even leave the harness plugged in if you like, it's not hurting anything. There were some wires that attached to the back of the previous Alternator that went to the voltage regulator, but now that those wires are not hooked up, that voltage regulator is just sitting there. A lot of people will go as far as to remove that wiring now that it's useless, but I wasn't in the mood for the extra work. I'd like to do a full re-wire of the car, so this will get addressed at that point anyway. :)

Then it's not a one-wire? :)

Yes, but I removed the actual light portion, it's just a plug. :)

Yeah, I need to do that. :)

That's fine, mine is essentially the same thing since the wire from the battery and the wire from the Alt are connected at the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid. :)

Yes, there's only one wire coming out the back. :)

Yep, figured that out the hard way. :)

The one-wire alternator is internally regulated, so it does not need the external voltage regulator that was installed from the factory. Also, I think you and I might be defining an 'upgrade' differently.

Haha, thanks!

It was a generic, 200A unit I purchased off eBay. :)

OK thanks