Amiga 1200 Recap Capacitor Replacement

Amiga 1200 Recap Capacitor Replacement - Damage found!

Рет қаралды 1,505

2 жыл бұрын

I find corrosion damage from capacitor leakage. Watch me recap and fix the board.
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Пікірлер: 28

@RacerX- 2 жыл бұрын

I love your channel and the work you do. But honestly, this method of removing caps, to me is no better than cutting the caps off or carful twisting with down-force pressure. Even though you are heating the solder you are still lifting and putting pressure on the pad. I think all methods are valid and dependent on the condition and situation of each PCB you are working on. People will say hot air is the only way but, in my experience, this is not the case all the time. I have seen some boards that the caps and pads are so crusty from leakage that they literally fell off with slightest pressure. The only time I have ever lifted a pad was on an Ensoniq sound card where the SMD caps were so corroded that hot air was not effective and the heat caused damage while the solder was not molten enough to free the cap. It is in those situations that I learned that you may have to cut them off the board and then remove the legs. Anyway, keep up the good work and glad you were able to fix it up. The Amiga boards are fun to re-cap, (not really).

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

Never seen an a1200 this old. Original caps too. Thanks for the encouragement :)

@matthewwarr1441 7 ай бұрын

Hi. I had the exact same pad lift on me, I used the cut method that I saw on another video. Im certain its corrosion rather than my method. Other pads have been fine. What guage Magnet wire did you use? Great vid btw! Tyia

@spankthemunkey1594 2 жыл бұрын

Scott McDonald over at retro bench had to close the online shop down a couple of years ago now, He is a great guy , The packets ot capacitor kits always come with a fantastic colour diagram of where every cap goes including the different board versions . So i would say that the guy who sent you the board did not include the sheet for the caps. It does look as though the caps have already been messed with on that board going by the poor solder work on some of them .

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info/update about retro bench :)

@spankthemunkey1594 2 жыл бұрын

@@retrofriends I have the Amiga a500 , a600 and the a1200 sheets I could copy to you if you would like . You can then have all capacitor values and placements for future reference. Is there an email address that I could send them to ? If you want them

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

@@spankthemunkey1594 I appreciate that, however it is not necessary. You missed the part in the video where I had no trouble keeping track, as well as when I mentioned that such premade diagrams are easily found. (I can certainly understand portions of my video being missed, since I've been known to skip parts of videos myself :)

@josephphillips9243 9 ай бұрын

Thanks for the video. I have seen others use the same de-solder technique as you with no problem. At 27 minutes you kind of gave the reason or the warning (I guess), don't use that method if there is any sign of corrosion. I suppose that it could just as easily happen with a hot air gun and corrosion.

@retrofriends 9 ай бұрын

In many cases, you won't see the corrosion until you remove the caps FYI. Oh, and hot air doesn't work with corrosion in my experience.

@markdjdeenix6846 2 жыл бұрын

i have found that cutting smd caps and pushing down on the cap while you cut ,this disconnects the legs and the cap pulls apart and leaves the legs on the pcb ,obviously if you have side cutter access also i have found if you tin 1 pad and apply the new cap you can float it into position while the soder is hot and then solder the other side with flux job is a gooden

@michaelpiotrowicz6100 Жыл бұрын

My experience has been very similar. Flux on the bottom of the legs of the new capacitors really helped me too.

@Lucretia9000 10 ай бұрын

I had no idea there was an Amiga version of pssst.

@Error42_ 2 жыл бұрын

I've had similar with an A600. Carefully doing one side then the other and I've got a pad starting to lift. I'm still undecided if it's corrosion or me, or both that is the culprit! Have you checked out Retro Game Modz channel? He does some amazing pad / trace repair, it's well worth a look at his videos.

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

Yes I have seen his videos. Perhaps you missed the part where I glue down a pad. It was just an experiment really. I do a rotation and a lifting at the same time. I've done a lot of recapping in my day, and this is the only board I had three lift on me.

@Error42_ 2 жыл бұрын

@@retrofriends Yes I saw the gluing. How has it held up? Didn't you say you used super glue? I had considered this but I didn't know how well it would hold up to the heat compared to epoxy. I'd be interested to know as I've got some to do myself and super glue would be easier to get under lifted pads than epoxy. Great job anyway, another one saved 🙂

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

@@Error42_ Oh, sorry - so used to people not watching the whole vid. Who can blame them LoL. The pad will probably come off at the next recap 30 years from now. At least it stayed in place for the cap install :)

@TheMcflyster 2 жыл бұрын

Always use hot air. Alternative u can use two solder irons...

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

I only use hot air for SMD ICs. Personal preference :)

@TheMcflyster 2 жыл бұрын

@@retrofriends well if you dont like hot air on caps, then please use two irons and lift the cap off nice and smoth. 😊

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

@@TheMcflyster Well, I hope you don't encounter corroded pads, because 7 irons wouldn't help ya LoL.Remember, I removed the dozen other caps without issue. In the video you see me scrape off corrosion before the solder would melt. Imagine that issue under the capacitor, the pad may lift regardless of your tool of choice.

@pkf4124 8 ай бұрын

100% the twist and rip method does not end well with the later boards. Several pads on mine came off even after I switched to the proper method. Gotta hate the Escom era boards.

@kreskogym 2 жыл бұрын

Hi! This method is wrong. Proper procedure is: pre-heat the mbo (for less heat mbo shock) , use plenty of flux and hot air, do not pull the caps, just wait to solder to be melted and then gently remove the cap. Anything else will cause lifting the pad. Regards!

@retrofriends 9 ай бұрын

I missed this comment! Hot air will not melt corroded pads - period. Corroded pads can also lift themselves, so no method is perfect, and therefore anybody can pick apart anybody's method. Internet futility LOL. A ton of people swear by cutting/twisting the caps off. My method is a compromise between the two techniques, almost as easy as the cut/twist but safer. But if your method works for you, more power to you. The best universal advice anyone can give anybody is to take their time.

@bradhansen2065 2 жыл бұрын

Seriously…

@retrofriends 2 жыл бұрын

Being a 1a board, this is likely the oldest a1200 motherboard I will ever see (and most will never see). With the original capacitors and visible leakage/corrosion I am suprised it worked at all. Unlike, for example, my personal a1200 motherboard which I have not done a recap, "seriously..."

@freesofia 9 ай бұрын

Super amateur and incorrect removal of capacitors! Otherwise, well done for the effort... but we learn best from failures!

@retrofriends 9 ай бұрын

The only consensus on technique is that there is no consensus LoL. You have to realize that sometimes the pad has already separated mechanically from the motherboard before you've even started. When there is corrosion, no method is perfect. Do what works best for you. People swear by their own methods, and have never had a problem. Hovever, most people don't experience the level of destruction you see in this and many of my other videos. Why does this happen to me? Simple: I have sought out destroyed Amigas. There are other videos about how to remove capacitors quickly when the corrosion is minimal or non-existent. I don't bother to film that stuff. If you want to witness destruction and how to deal with it, my channel is the right place for you.

@tYNS 3 ай бұрын

yeah.. rocking it back and forth is a horrible idea. the legs are solder flat to the pad on the board. when you push it over you are literally lifting the pad off like a pry bar. just .. very wrong. use tweezers if you are doing a straight desolder (at the right temp!) .. You lifted both pads on that first one you did btw.