Amiga 600 Recapping

Рет қаралды 21,897

4 жыл бұрын

I'm replacing the notorious SMD electrolytic capacitors in the Amiga 600 I repaired in the last video. This is not meant to be a tutorial but I'm giving some (hopefully useful) insights about how I approach the problem. Hope this helps keeping more Amigas alive.
Here's the video about repairing the A600: • Amiga 600 Black Screen...
Here's my video about repairing and recapping a Macintosh SE/30: • Macintosh SE/30 Capaci...
Capacitor lists with part numbers (for easy ordering) for many Amiga models: www.ikod.se/repairs/capacitor...
Jeff from the Hey Birt! KZfaq channel recently made a handy color-coded map of capacitor positions for the different A600 revisions: www.soigeneris.com/document/vi...
Here's some of the tools I use in this video (mostly affiliate links, I get a small portion of the money, you don't pay anything extra):
Desoldering Station ZD-915*:
US: amzn.to/389ijKp
UK: amzn.to/3812oxC
DE: amzn.to/2HWm23d
Hot Air Station 858D*:
US: amzn.to/2Pqx7xl
UK: amzn.to/3cbNaZH
DE: amzn.to/2T33THj
iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit (I have the older version)*:
US: amzn.to/2Vqt2NF
UK: amzn.to/2w9k9xk
DE: amzn.to/2uzqpy5
Kapton Tape*:
US: amzn.to/2VqiHRO
UK: amzn.to/2TiR7Dx
DE: amzn.to/2VrTXc4
Chemtronics Chem-Wik Solderwick*:
US: amzn.to/2uxDd7Z
UK: amzn.to/3aajH0B
DE: amzn.to/2VsZC1A
Stannol Solder*:
US: amzn.to/3a6Hxdy
UK: amzn.to/32xH2XC
DE: amzn.to/2Pt7NHc
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Music by Focus 10 / user-993847645
EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS I USE*: kit.co/janbeta
TWITTER: / thejanbeta
PATREON: / janbeta
WEBSITE: www.janbeta.net
TWITCH: / thejanbeta
Thanks for watching!
* Stuff marked with "*" contains affiliate links. You don't pay anything extra and I get a little commission from everything you buy through the links (even if you buy something different there).
#JanBeta #Commodore #Amiga

Пікірлер: 195

@amigaretro4765 4 жыл бұрын

I re-capped my A600 early this week but left the two audio caps due to their location. After watching your video, I decided I really should replace them. Removing the the keyboard connector took a bit longer than your experience but it came off eventually with no damage to it or the Motherboard. Thanks again for unknowingly inspiring me to completely finish the Job :)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Nice, well done! Hope your Amiga continues to work well. :D

@davethebulb 2 жыл бұрын

I removed the kb connector today in about 30 seconds using Chipquik SMD alloy. Basically bridged all pins using the alloy, wiped the iron tip up & down the pins a few times and the connector just fell out. I struggled before using a desoldering gun as a few pins would still make contact with the vias.

@MC-1173 4 жыл бұрын

Great job as always! :) You make it look easy. I know that anxiety feeling of turning on the machine, right after a recap. Look forward to the next video.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Yeah, always a moment of truth turning the machine you serviced/repaired on after finishing. ;)

@RetroGadgetMan 3 жыл бұрын

Great video, this has given me a little more confidence to recap mine soon.

@RenzoLeon 4 жыл бұрын

Daaaamn Jan, such a tidy and well organized desk / work space !!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Haha, a rare sight in my lab indeed. ;)

@guyh3403 4 жыл бұрын

Amazing how much love you put in that A600. She is a happy puter once more!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Yes, she works beautifully again. I still have to do some more work on the case and I'm definitely going to put some expansions in sometime, too. :)

@giuseppelavecchia775 3 жыл бұрын

Jan,hai fatto un lavoro incredibile all'A600.superbo.sei grande!.

@DaveVelociraptor 4 жыл бұрын

You've really made a great job of explaining what you're doing in this video Young (the g is silent). You've edited it perfectly!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir! ;D

@Piotrjastrzebski 4 жыл бұрын

Dude...today i was thinking to recap my Amiga600 and i order caps.Now i open youtube and what i see?...your video.You're totally reading in my mind:)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Lol, nice! Hope the recapping goes well for you. :)

@rawberg_se 4 жыл бұрын

Great video as usual Jan!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! :)

@HidekiAdam 4 жыл бұрын

Excellent guide, been putting off recapping my A1200 but think I can give it a go now, many thanks

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Hope it goes well! :)

@bwack 4 жыл бұрын

Very nicely done, janbeta! I have full trust in your soldering rework skills!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you kindly sir! I actually was quite inspired by one of your older videos. :)

@bwack 4 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta thats nice! I remember on the A1200 I recapped, many of the caps exploded while heating the board. For that reason Ive been looking into heated tweezers.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

@@bwack Yes, I've had a cap explode in my face some time ago using hot air, too. I was kind of prepared for that to happen this time so it didn't bother me so much. ;)

@bitdigital8052 2 жыл бұрын

I have 3 1200’s and 1 600 to do and will most definitely be removing the Keyboard connectors as you did. Awesome job!

@m.m.2132 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for this Video, I just recently got an A600. Your videos gave some good clues how to do the recapping. I'll try to remove the caps with soldering tweezers. Fingers crossed.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Tweezers should work just as well I think. Remember to use flux, that helps desoldering parts that may already have leakage. Good luck!

@BocaRetroGames 4 жыл бұрын

Yes! Tks for my morning entertainment, I really appreciate it

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Boca! :)

@Boris_Amiga1200 6 ай бұрын

Nice job Jan! 👌💪

@johnwilson2250 4 жыл бұрын

You do great work, but are always surprised when things work afterwards. It always makes me laugh. Thanks for all the videos! love your content!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks John! I am genuinely still surprised when something works first try (even though I got a bit better with repairs over the years). :)

@RavenWolfRetroTech 4 жыл бұрын

Interesting to see this video Jan. I used to repair a lot of Amiga 500s back in the day but was out of it before the 600s came out

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Yeah, the A600 is quite different from the A500 at least considering the form factor of the components used.

@MindFlareRetro 4 жыл бұрын

Very nicely done. I am glad you didn't use the twist-off method -- that method always freaks me out. Yes, you have inspired me to look at both my new(-ish) A600 and my original Amiga 1200 -- both with original caps. I am eager to see what expansion options you add to this A600. 👍

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mark! I tried the twisting method on my A1200 and it worked well. I think hot air puts a lot less stress on the pads though. I had to get used to it a bit but now it works very nicely and quickly for me. Expansions are definitely going to be added sometime soon. :)

@alhartman66 4 жыл бұрын

It's funny that you replaced AGAIN the capacitor you replaced in the previous video. Good job! Can't wait to see you repair the RAM Expansion card.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, the one I put in last time was just a random (cheap?) cap I had in my parts bin. I just wanted to make sure I have the good once everywhere. ;)

@GeordieMarv 4 жыл бұрын

Good video as usual, Jan.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! :)

@iron529 4 жыл бұрын

Great video. I actually just got a A600 with identical problem that i'll need to recap soon so good timing on this :) About recapping these preemptively, i recently got a Mac IIci where the caps would fall off just by poking them slightly. Their legs were corroded in between the cap and the plastic bottom that sits on the motherboard. So yeah, definitely worth it to recap even if there's no clear symptoms suggesting bad caps.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, as I said in the video. The SMD electrolytics from that era are basically all crap. I think they rushed production and got the chemicals slightly wrong so most of them are leaky these days.

@robbyxp1 4 жыл бұрын

Nice job Jan. Lovely video.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@doktor6495 4 жыл бұрын

Yeeesss! Nice SMD recapping video - we can learn from! Good job! I hoped you do it like this, not doing things like turning off the caps without soldering and so on. That can work, but it doesn't have to. Greetings, Doktor64!

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Tried the twisting method before when I didn't have a hot air station. Hot air is definitely the way to go in comparison.

@insanedruid3143 4 жыл бұрын

Nice video. Remindet me a lot at my Amiga 600 Recap. Aslo removed the keyboard connector (and the audio ones, also used the same caps, same flux, same style (not brand) tweezers.. :) Only difference was I used 280 degrees while desoldering and did not pre--tin one pad, just used flux.. I and sweated waaaay more as it was my first SMD recap ever :)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Fortunately, my sweating did not show in the video. Although I have done this a couple of times now, SMD rework remains to be an adventure for me, too. ;)

@TheLEEC 4 жыл бұрын

Excellent video! Brings back memories from... well... weeks ago. :P

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Lol, I guess it is the common thing to do on the Amigas with SMD capacitors. They are all leaking these days...

@PaulinesPastimes 4 жыл бұрын

Never doubted you for a second. SMD components are so difficult to deal with aren't they? Congrats.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! SMDs are not that difficult to work with once you get a little practice. I think having solder paste and using the hot air for resoldering, too, would make it easier still.

@JaySmith-cd1ln 4 жыл бұрын

Jan, thanks for the video man! 😀

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

My pleasure! ;)

@quirin1727 4 жыл бұрын

Im Diskettenlaufwerk sind auch noch SMD Kondensatoren. Great Video! 😃

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Ja, hab ich schon gesehen. Die kommen auch noch beizeiten. ;) Thanks!

@10MARC 4 жыл бұрын

Those SMD capacitors are a real pain to solder back on. I do not like doing it at all. Great job, Jan!

@jaycee1980 4 жыл бұрын

I find the best way to do it is to put a dab of flux onto the pads, then place the capacitor on top of it. Then you need only touch the pad with a tinned soldering iron tip and the flux does the magic :)

@Error42_ 4 жыл бұрын

I recently had the joy of figuring out how the hell to get the board out of the bottom casing. I think bending the joystick ports to the right and lifting the front up is the easiest... except when someone puts a switch in the way of course :-D

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, slightly bending it and lifting it on the side the joystick ports are did it for me. The switch is not very cleverly positioned but I think I'll have to leave it there because I don't want to drill another hole in the case. :/

@jimjimx5418 4 жыл бұрын

I like the reuse of the glass jar for the tip cleaner.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yes! I like that it has some weight to it and I can close it air tight if I don't use it and store it away (which I very seldomly do actually...)

@ingodiekmann8321 4 жыл бұрын

Hallo Jan, gute Arbeit! Immer wieder ein schönes Gefühl wenn es ohne Komplikationen verläuft. Was mich interessiert: Was für einen Video-Adapter nutzt Du für den RGB-Ausgang? Ziemlich gutes Bild auf dem TFT. Vg

@SLRModShop 4 жыл бұрын

My tips : Cut the desoldering braid, I use 3cm at a time with a tweezer to hold it. The braid acts as a heat sink so you lose some heat using the whole roll. Also, you won't burn your fingers that way too. Last thing, try to avoid dragging the braid to avoid damaging the pads. The braid shouldn't move other than up and down basically.

@benbaselet2026 4 жыл бұрын

But Louis always drags the braid! :)

@SLRModShop 4 жыл бұрын

@@benbaselet2026 Rossman ? It's not very risky; especially because he works on newer devices. I wouldn't say it's mandatory but it doesn't cost much and if it can prevents you from damaging 1 pad per year, why not not doing it ?

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tips! I tried to be pretty careful with dragging the braid. I've seen the method with using short strands of braid, going to try that, too. I guess I was just too lazy to clip the braid. Makes sense, of course. ;)

@Thelemorf Жыл бұрын

Dragging the braid is no problem as long as you dont apply force downwards with the soldering iron.

@siegfriedegger9594 3 жыл бұрын

Hy, found the same A600HD in my basement, also with this rom switch. Any suggestion where to buy the parts?

@johnwilson6948 2 жыл бұрын

great job going to recap the a600 i found dummped but i need to change the rf tuner as it has water damage hopefully i wont damage the board when i do this so small the solder points on this board

@DavoidJohnson 3 жыл бұрын

Saw Gadget UK using two soldering iron method to remove smds. Looks good and avoids heating nearby components.

@JanBeta 3 жыл бұрын

I tried the two-iron method, too, but I feel more comfortable with hot air. Probably a matter of taste and skill (I am a bit shaky with two irons... lol).

@00Skyfox 4 жыл бұрын

Jan, what is the origin of the music in your intro? Did you compose that originally or does it come from an old 8-bit game?

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

It’s from the C64 version of Flip & Flop. One of the first games I ever played on the C64. ;)

@gerdbaier9437 2 жыл бұрын

wie zufrieden bist du mit deiner Lötstation? glaube eine WS81 zu sehen. Und wie zufrieden bist du mit der Entlötstation? das müsste eine ZD 915 sein? hast du die modifiziert?

@RaamahRaamah 4 жыл бұрын

I don't own a hot air station, in my case I found using some chip quik (or generic alternatives like fast chip) low melting point solder made removing these SMD caps very easy, perhaps easier than hot air. Just add some flux, put a little low melt solder on each leg and allow it to flow underneath, then just hold the component with some tweezers while moving the soldering iron from one pad to the other to keep things molten and the caps come right off. Just make sure to remove all low melt solder before adding new solder.

@sethrd999 4 жыл бұрын

Great Job Jan, from your comment about the picture and what nots is the performance better since the recap?

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

I think there was a slight improvement in terms of noise in the picture. A good (recapped) power supply is more important for the video out though I think.

@londongaz2 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for such a good video. I'm a total newbie at this, and hoping to do something similar with my old amiga 600. If I don't want to splash out on the more expensive desoldering tool, is it possible to use the hot air gun to desolder the through hole components as well? Forgive me if this is a silly question!

@JanBeta 2 жыл бұрын

It is certainly possible if you are careful but I would recommend using a regular soldering iron and some solder wick/solder braid before the hot air to remove the bulk of the solder. Would be rather difficult to free the through holes with only hot air I think.

@FullMetalFab 4 жыл бұрын

What video adapter are you using ?

@bobbymalta73 4 жыл бұрын

Thank You!

@trailersic 4 жыл бұрын

I've just opened my Amiga 600 at the same time this video was posted, black screen when turned on, so I guess caps is the first thing to check. I wish I was as skillful. Unfortunatly also damaged the HDD connector when dismantling and remantling(?) didn't breakthe case tabs though :D

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I think the capacitors are by far causing the most issues in these machines. The HDD connector should still be available as a part, it's a standard connector I think. So it's not all that bad. ;)

@vonyggystein 4 жыл бұрын

Great work getting the 600 working again! Quick question, which hdmi converter are you using now? I need a good solution for my Amiga 500 as the crt is getting crusty :)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I'm using one of the inexpensive Flylink SCART-HDMI converters for quick testing purposes (not very well suited for gaming and such but cost effective) and the OSSC for seriously using the machines. More expensive but definitely worth it if you take this hobby seriously in my opinion. ;)

@GraphicalRanger 4 жыл бұрын

That was really useful. So question I have is can you get by without Desoldering Station?

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

You can, but it's more fiddly to do and you need to be a lot more careful. You can use solder braid/wick and desoldering pump, of course.

@robbune1792 Жыл бұрын

I love the music on this video, is it commercially available?

@JanBeta Жыл бұрын

Yes! Look for Focus 10 on all the regular streaming platforms. There’s also a link to Bandcamp in the video description where you can download the music!

@tharkthax3960 4 жыл бұрын

Great work. I've never actually needed to replace an smd cap. If I was to replace them I would probably just use quality electrolytic thru hole caps. I've seen it done with a Dreamcast.

@jameswebb5080 4 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately this puts more pressure on the pads and they will often lift over time.

@tharkthax3960 4 жыл бұрын

@@jameswebb5080 thanks for the advice. Smd are something I've never worked with but no doubt will do one day!

@jameswebb5080 4 жыл бұрын

@@tharkthax3960 In some ways they are easier than thru hole devices, just try a few on a junk board first.....:-).

@MrLurchsThings 4 жыл бұрын

Have you ever considered making an overhead camera bracket/rig?

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

I did that for the first couple of videos actually, using a microphone stand. It didn't feel as "over the shoulder" as I wanted my videos to look so I went with the other perspective(s). Definitely makes sense for some shots though so I might go back to that... 🤔

@MrLurchsThings 4 жыл бұрын

Jan Beta fair enough. I *personally* found I couldn’t get close enough for some detail while shooting over the shoulder, and trying to work with the camera in front of me and trying to work over/around it drove me absolutely nuts. Hence the massively over engineered bracket I use (posted it to Twitter a while back).

@blenderbuch 3 жыл бұрын

Will it ask for a kick start disk in middle position? 😶

@brostenen 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jan... While you are in the Amiga mood, why not do a software video on the HstWB software pack?

@charlesdrano 4 жыл бұрын

@Jan Beta: The ESD wrist strap is not attached (or connected) to anything in this video, so it is useless xD

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

It was connected most of the time, it popped out of the socket without me noticing at one point. Well spotted! ;)

@zeewolf4302 4 жыл бұрын

Hi. can someone help me... how can i detect if i have a bad CIA chip... i have an A1200 Rev. 1D.1 and it power to a Black screen, and i have activity on power led, and disk/HD led... but if i change the kick roms, sometimes i receive a Yellow screen or sometimes a red screen... the same if i connect my Apollo 1220 expansion. i´ve tried to recap... but damaged some traces... that i am trying to repair...

@ReverendLinc 4 жыл бұрын

Jan, why not use the solder wick and an iron in those close quarters. Surely that would be easier to direct than a hot air stream?

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

I found that it doesn't work very well. It's really difficult to get all the solder out from beneath the caps with regular tools. Heating up both pads at once until the solder melts and then gently removing with tweezers works way better.

@larsenmats 4 жыл бұрын

Nice work. Out of all my Amigas the Amiga 600 is probably my least favourite type of Amiga. It's very practical as a whdload/take up small space retro computer, but it just feels so cheap. I have accelerated A600s and A1200 but I always prefer to use one of my A500s with ACA 500 + ACA 1221. I just love the A500s. Soon I will have 9 of them. lol

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I agree, the A600 was always my least favorite of the Amigas. Having one, I kind of changed my mind a bit. It's quite a versatile machine with the PCMCIA and IDE connectivity and it doesn't take up as much space as an A500 or one of the big box Amigas. I still prefer to work on A500s and they are more nostalgic for me as my first Amiga was a 500. :)

@daw7563 4 жыл бұрын

Do you ever use vineager to neutralize any remains of the leakage? I heard from other youtubers that cleaning with alcohol is not enough.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, I used vinegar and lemon juice before. If you remove it with distilled water and alcohol afterwards it usually works very well. In this case, the leakage was not very much so I think removing it with alcohol and q-tips did the job.

$@refractionpcsx2$

@refractionpcsx2 4 жыл бұрын

Nice job Jan! I keep wanting to recap my A1200, but those SMD caps are scary, plus I don't have a hot air gun, so I might send it off for somebody else to do it xD twisting caps is a bit too risky for me!

@benbaselet2026 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, cleaning up the mess left by someone who didn't have experience is 10x harder than just doing it right the first time.

$@refractionpcsx2$

@refractionpcsx2 4 жыл бұрын

@@benbaselet2026 Definitely! and I don't want to be that person lol

@x86Info 4 жыл бұрын

Nice music!!!

@P5ychoFox 4 жыл бұрын

01:22 Next time please do the most destructive method. Perhaps using a big drill or something :)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Angle grinder? Dynamite? Flame thrower? :D

@benbaselet2026 4 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta Do you have any of those? :D

@mariushmedias 4 жыл бұрын

I would have installed regular through hole capacitors, not smd. There's enough room to place them flat on the circuit board and just bend the leads, or you could even have them vertical and pre-bend and pre-tin and pre-cut the leads so that you just have to put some solder on the pads. norcal715 has a video where he replaces a hundred or so smd capacitors with through hole caps, by gently pressing down on the surface mount capacitor and repeatedly twisting a tiny amount to weaken the connections under the capacitor. Then, he bends leads of through hole caps and solders them. You can see his technique at around 10:20 on the video that starts with "Mitsubishi DLP Electrical Chassis Rebuild DM FMT WD 52825" (you can search for mitsubishi dlp in his channel, it's a 23 minutes video from 2012)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Oh, I won't recommend using regular caps on SMD pads. They can put a lot more stress on the pads which they are not designed for. Especially if they are slightly damaged from corrosion and such they might rip off easily. Saying that, I have done it before and it worked, but using SMD parts is definitely the more professional way to do it.

@nutsnproud6932 4 жыл бұрын

Nice video. I just twist the tops of the caps off with pliers and remove the remains with hot air or soldering iron tweezers.

@benbaselet2026 4 жыл бұрын

It works. IF you have a good high-quality board and the pads don't just fly out while you twist...

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

It puts more stress on the pads and they might lift off, especially if they are corroded. I have done it before on my A1200. I find the hot air method much more secure once you get used to it.

@commodorebench2556 4 жыл бұрын

Have you ever tried acetone instead of isopropyl for removing flux? It is a main ingredient in some of the canned flux removers, I switched to it a while ago and it works so much better for me. You do have to be careful around some plastics though....

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Didn't try yet but I might give it a shot. Thanks for the tip. :)

@stefanmarinescu5086 4 жыл бұрын

IT was how ever trivial to get it out once you remove the washer holding the switch :)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Still had to slightly bend the case to get the PCB out. Not the best of designs. ;)

@mattx5499 2 жыл бұрын

I would like to ak you a question since you're an electronics expert. What do you think about Amiga's built quality?

@JanBeta 2 жыл бұрын

Oh, it varies a lot between the models and years of manufacturing. Generally speaking, everything that Commodore ever made was built to be inexpensive and not for quality. Most machines had a planned life expectancy of around five years according to some former Commodore engineers. They are quite surprised themselves that so many of the old machines still work today actually. :D

@mattx5499 2 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta Yeah. I had Amiga A1200 since 1998 to 2014 and the only thing that broke was the floppy drive. But I won't complain since it was heavily abused with disk swapping and some mechanical parts could get misalligned. Thanks for your reply. :)

@jaycee1980 4 жыл бұрын

I normally use around 290c hot air.. but with a thinner nozzle you might need hotter I guess. I normally take off that 4.7 ohm resistor and the Sony encoder as well, as I find otherwise that the electrolyte stays stuck under them and continues corroding things (as well as smelling fishy!) I also find it easier to desolder the input filter choke when working on C821 and C822

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

I experimented with lower temperatures, too, but I found this to be the sweet spot for me. No idea how accurate the temperature sensor in the hot air station is, though. Might be quite a bit off. The leakage in this Amiga was pretty minimal fortunately so I don't think there was any electrolyte beneath the chips. The fishy smell is gone completely now thankfully. ;) Desoldering the choke makes sense. Had quite some problems reaching in there with the soldering iron.

@CCfiftyeight 4 жыл бұрын

Der A600 wurde oft ohne die obere Hälfte der Blechverkleidung ausgeliefert. Meiner hatte z.b. von ansehe an nur die untere Hälfte. Die SMD kondis habe ich schon machen lassen, die anderen Elko wollte ich auch auch noch neben aber irgendwie traue ich mich noch nicht so ganz dran...

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Die through-hole Elkos sind normalerweise okay in den Kisten. Sind eh sehr viel weniger anfällig als die schrecklichen SMD-Dinger aus der Zeit. Also ich würde sagen, das eilt nicht, würde aber auch nicht schaden. Das mit der Blechverkleidung scheint so üblich gewesen zu sein, habe jetzt schon von einigen Leuten gehört, dass ihre A600er keine hatten. Wieder ein paar Cent gespart! ;)

@rubbelkatz3672 3 жыл бұрын

Maybe a smaller soldering tip would have helped with the SMD caps.

@zxkim8136 4 жыл бұрын

nice one jan @@@kim@@@

@dassrull 2 жыл бұрын

1.3 ROM on the a600? Never knew that it was possible :)

@EffoVonOrton 3 жыл бұрын

Amiga Rulez !

@yanomeister 6 ай бұрын

Welche Elkos Hersteller können Sie empfehlen ?

@JanBeta 6 ай бұрын

Ich benutze meistens Panasonic. Andere gute Marken sind Nichicon, Nippon/Europe Chemicon, Rubycon, Vishay etc.

@yanomeister 6 ай бұрын

@@JanBeta Super vielen dank für Antwort . LG

@psteier 4 жыл бұрын

Be carefull rubbing with the Q-tips on the pads. Sometime a pad can be tear off by "hanging" into the cotton...

@BocaRetroGames 4 жыл бұрын

Peter Steier I had that horrifying experience ... :(

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, seen that in another video, too. I was pretty careful (maybe also lucky).

@psteier 4 жыл бұрын

You are a lucky Jan :)

@jaycee1980 4 жыл бұрын

I dont think they ever shipped the top half of the RF shield in Europe - my own A600 didnt have one (from new) and neither did any of my friend's machines

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Ha, interesting! Might very well be, regulations are probably quite different for the US and Europe I would guess. I didn't notice any scratch marks or bends on the little latches so it indeed looks like it never had a top part. Probably saved Commodore another few cents per unit... ;)

@catriona_drummond 4 жыл бұрын

I have 2 more A600's and they both do have the RF shield. One even had a kickstart switch crammed in beneath it. Both with German keyboard hence European machines. I think you can tell whether it was ever installed at all from looking at the little hooks that are supposed to hold it. If they have no marks from ever being bent it might have been delivered without.

@jaycee1980 4 жыл бұрын

@@catriona_drummond Interesting. I would say the UK ones always shipped without - I have repaired quite a few and never seen one with the shield in place, ever!

@catriona_drummond 4 жыл бұрын

Excellent job, Jan. You can send it back to me now. :P

@DaveVelociraptor 4 жыл бұрын

How does it feel watching one of your children having an operation like this?

@catriona_drummond 4 жыл бұрын

@@DaveVelociraptor I was definitely nervous but I knew it was in good hands :)

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Haha, never! Thanks again though. ;)

@hotfast 3 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta hi

@kcinplatinumgaming2598 4 жыл бұрын

Jan lol you must be the luckiest guy on the planet ... i just have to look at a computer and it stops working forever !! LOL

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Sometimes, I get the same effect. But thankfully it got a bit better with some years of practice now. ;)

@feicodeboer 4 жыл бұрын

Don't scrape the braid, don't scrape, it may rip your pads. Well, that is what I learned from watching Paul Daniels videos. Also, he and Louis Rossman seem to use way more flux ... However, if it works for you, I guess it's fine.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

I tired to be gentle with the scraping. I think the flux I'm using is more liquid than the stuff Louis Rossman uses so it spreads faster and you don't need as much. At least it worked fine for me so far. ;)

@Codeaholic1 4 жыл бұрын

Mr. Carlson says to use the side cutters to grab the SMD cap can and twist and sheer them off by their leeds. Then use desolder braid to clean up the left overs. If its good enough for Mr Carlson it's good enough for me. I've only removed SMD caps a few times but the forceful grab and twist method was by far the easiest. And I didn't have any lifted pads.

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, I tried that method before on my A1200, too. Worked reasonably well but I think the hot air method puts a lot less stress on the pads than any physical force method. Hot air works really quickly and easily once you get used to the approach. The twisting method is definitely a good way to do it without a hot air station.

@blenderbuch 3 жыл бұрын

Jan... Since when do you own the desoldering station? So many mixed ratings online. You are an above average user so your opinion matters to me... I need it more of less only occasionally.

@JanBeta 3 жыл бұрын

I made a review video about it when I got it... in 2017 or 2016? Works fine for me still, I had to replace the "gun" part once though because it clogged up a lot.

@blenderbuch 3 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta Ok, thats somehow in line with the other reviews, I will check you vid! Maybe I can then give my Amigas some love...

@CCfiftyeight 4 жыл бұрын

Btw, kick 2.05 or higher in the A600! Original was 2.04 without and 2.05 with HD 😜

@Hagledesperado 4 жыл бұрын

LOL my diskless 600 came with 2.05, more precisely 37.299, the worst possible version since you need 37.300 or higher to initialize a HDD.

@CCfiftyeight 4 жыл бұрын

@@Hagledesperado thats more than 20years ago but i think u r right! The A500+ of my dad had 2.04. My A600 had first a 2.05 version that didn't know the IDE Port! Shame on me but i'm getting old 😅

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Oh, didn't know there was a 2.05 without IDE support. Interesting indeed! Commodore fail. ;)

@ralfr.5974 4 жыл бұрын

Only Jan Beta makes it possible!!👌

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

*sings* :D

@williamsquires3070 4 жыл бұрын

I call those screw-thingies on the back, “nut-screws”; makes sense - one end is a (hex) nut, the other end is a screw. 🙂

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Ha! Sounds right. :)

@devue4183 4 жыл бұрын

You are lucky, mine have 3 broken pads (acid leak). I need to repair them but it's a long process... :-(

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Yes, I have seen much worse! Hope you can fix yours. I found that most of the times it is easier to just run bodge wires than to actually try to repair the pads. Not the ideal way, but it has worked well for me so far on a couple of machines.

@alainwaroux8509 4 жыл бұрын

Ca me rappel quand j ai recap mon 1200 beau travail

@rrafal 3 жыл бұрын

Aw man, what an awful job... I did!. I dont know if all Amigas has such poor PCB quality, but man, mine was in pretty awful condition. Even simple tasks took longer and where prone to errors. I thought I can recap electrolytics pretty well, i mean, i have a small bucket of capacitors in my collection that I've desoldered. But here it was harder because the pads on the bottom side where missing, or I did something wrong? I placed my iron and right away it started to melt PCB. SMD's where hard too, ripped one pad here, ripped trace there. Awful. And that fishy smell, all the time. I thouht it wouldnt be such strong but really, man fish ans nothing else. I dont think I will touch Amiga board again :D

@JanBeta 3 жыл бұрын

Ah, sorry to hear about that. These boards can really give you headaches, especially if there is some leakage going on already. I have lifted quite some traces myself. Usually you can add in some bodge wires to fix it still but I sure feel your pain. :)

@rrafal 3 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta thank you for your kind word! To repair this, I put a piece of wire to connect the minus of new thantalum C612 10uF. BTW not only caps where bad, i needed to replace ne555, and repair one via connection nearby. Also fix the power plug connector. Reflow video ics. AAAAAAAND, its ALIVE!

@atanassotirov9466 4 жыл бұрын

I hate the SMD electrolitic capacitors and always when needed replace them with through-hole electrolitic by bending and soldering their legs

@JanBeta 4 жыл бұрын

Oh, the SMD components these days are decent. As I said in the video, it's just the SMD electrolytics from that era that are particularly bad. I don't recommend attaching through-hole components to the surface mount pads, they put more stress on the pads and might damage them in the end.

@atanassotirov9466 4 жыл бұрын

@@JanBeta Hmm, may be you are right.