Jan: uses actual floppies to install the OS and doesn't prepare the CF card it in Winuae Me: THIS IS THE WAY!

It's beautiful. The gleaming white keyboard looks fab. I felt the relief when it worked after the re-cap 😅. They are such attractively designed machines. 😊✔

Great stuff Jan as always, well done saving these epic machines. Also love the Focus 10 music track, I was getting Amiga demo vibes and looks like that's the composer's background 😃

With the sheer amount of Amigas you're repaired you must be the world's foremost expert on the first level of Turrican!!

I'm so glad you posted this A1200 restoration video. I've got an original Escom A1200 from Germany, and the warranty seal hasn't been tampered with or removed! It's in pristine condition and I really don't want to ruin it. I know i need to recap it, and this video shows me exactly what I have to do to keep it original :-). Danke, Jan!

Sterling work Jan, another machine saved and future proofed! Well done.

Here we go! I just found another God of Retro here in youtube! :)

That long startup (with the floppy drive disconnected) always gets me every time I fire up my A1200 :-D "Is it broken???"

A couple of tips - with the component removal it cane be beneficial to use some "assistive heat" with hot air station. And the solder wick can work a bit easier if you add some flux to the wick. Thanks for another great video!

Really nice job Jan. The machine looks superb. You might be better off with some wider kapton tape. I agree with your comments about cotton buds leaving fibres on the board but simply using IPA and a brush just spreads the flux residue around into a thin layer rather than removing it. I use sponge swabs and/or kimtech wipes with IPA. Looking forward to the next video. 👍

Nice job. I am using two irons to resolder smd caps. And surely a lot of flux too ;-)

Great video Jan! I've recently recapped my original Amiga 500 PCB. I found the PCB tracks to be VERY fragile (compared to my C64 repairs). The other thing I did was swap over my Audio RCA sockets. My OCD was always triggered by the Right being White and Left being Red... opposite of ALL other audio equipment I have seen :-)

There's a good video on Mr Carlson's Lab about removing SM caps. Basically you can just twist them off using a pair of pliers and then remove the legs with a soldering iron. Sounds scary but he's very a experienced engineer and it work extremely well. Worth a watch.

Very nice work Jan! Glad you pointed out what not to do in your past experience with recapping the A1200. 👍

Wow! That A1200 turned out looking amazing! Good job!

Well done Jan. Great follow-up video. Another Amiga lives.!

Vielen Dank! I'm so glad you did not yank those capacitors off and took your time to desolder sensitive parts. Du hast wirklich tolle und professionelle Arbeit gemacht.

Very nice as usual Jan 👏👏👏

Nice work, that looks amazing!

Zinc is the active ingredient in rust-resistant coatings. The rusted area may be treated to a coating of zinc-based undercoat that is used for metal. Rust is an electrical circuit that is stopped by zinc. That is why cars get galvanized. Thanks.

That keyboard looks good. Nice work sir.

Excellent job saving that A1200!!! Even though it didn't look too bad things could've been much much worse in just a month or two, and if corrosion starts eating away at the pcb, then the life span of that computer is drastically shortened - and we've lost enough Amigas (and other retro computers) to leaking batteries and caps already and these are all there are on the planet, hence why I've repaired/restored several Amigas for free the last 20 years. I've been given several dead Amigas that I've been able to hand out to people whom I think deserve them as long as they promise to take care of them and hand them to someone else in the future in order to keep the Amiga alive. One thing particularly dodgy with floods is that sewers flood too and you get all sorts of bacteria everywhere... That's why you more or less soak everything in alcohol or bleach to kill whatever the flood brought with it. Using those thick gloves wasn't a bad idea before you got most of the nastiness off that A1200! I'm sure the owner of said A1200 was really happy getting that Amiga back in a way better condition than it was even before the flood! Well done sir, well done! :)

Very nice work Jan. Greetings from Curacao.

Great work Jan another A1200 saved, it looks as good as new.

Great recap job!

What you called a "carriage" -- is often known as a carriage. Mounting bracket would be more common, but carriage isn't wrong. Some people might also call it a "cage" although that term really only fits when it's a full wraparound on all four sides box shape.

Beautiful job! I think the 1200 is my favourite Amiga. =)

Looking like new! 👍🕹️

I would suggest soaking up the IPA with some lint free tissue/cloth after cleaning with that brush, otherwise you are just smearing the flux around the board without removing any of it

I think, the part of removing the SMD Caps with hot air, that puts some off Jan! Is sometimes the caps act like fireworks and take off. I've seen a lot of people do the pliers twist option, over many years & in some cases it's cringe! especially on older/vintage boards 👍🏻

Klasse gemacht, super cool!!! Gruss, Michael

Hi Jan, Nice video. I used baking soda to remove the rust stains on the plastic. It worked great (almost took away all).

Super work!!!

20:46 **click** Ooooh, I even puckered a bit hehe

Nice saved Jan Beta ! I was abit scared when you removed the caps with hot air. I remember that I once I did the same thing on an Escom A1200 motherboard, several caps exploded. No injuries luckily :)

I enjoyed that Jan ....AWESOME....

Grande, Jan!! ☺👍

Maybe I am wrong but you can switch on the A1200 with both mouse buttons pressed in order to change the boot order procedure. Then you don't have to wait if there is no hard disk installed. Gute Restauration. :)

I pulled all the caps on my A1200 with pliers, zero lifted pads. Tried hotair method on another PCB, lifted pad every time. The issue is that when the solder on one leg you saw liquify is resolidifying and you start lifting the piece because you think the solder on both legs is fluid then it's like you are pulling with a huge lever on that resolidified pad and then it's no more attached to the PCB.

Man those keys look so nice! I really gotta get one of those grow lights and brighten up my A1200 keyboard, I'm sick of it looking like a corn cob. :P

Great Project!! Save the Amigas👍🏻😁

I actually saw an episode of MattKC where he fixed a Nintendo Wii. The only thing wrong with it.........faulty SMD caps. The WII came out in 2006. That's in the period where those SMD caps were still trash. It makes me wonder if my WII is messed up. I bought mine in January 2007. So not quite launch, but pretty damn close. I haven't touched it in 11 years!!!

Great work Jan 👍 and again you must do an a500++ pcb, I finished mine and had a few probs, but was down to the ram mainly, had to place the 555 timer ic as the pins broke, and forgot to do the drive select jumpers making me think the drives had gone, but all working and a fantastic job on the pcb creator 👍

Since last Year, I only use Aluminium Polymer capacitors, because they look and work like the normal SMD caps but cant leak any more because there are no liquid parts inside. And with solder tweezers you don't need hot air :-) you can just pick them from the board.

Very nice

Thanks Jan, Another great restoration. Did you test the PCMCIA Port?

Gutes Video. Danke dafür

If you're worrying about Q-Tips lifting your pads, probably shouldn't drag braid over them either!

Lovely job jan it s just missing an accelerator now.

Muy bueno!!, saludos👍

Saved from the flood! You are a proper lifeguard!Any offers from the series Baywatch?

Hi Jan, i used only solidstate or Hybrid caps for my Amiga 1200 or 600. I made a video on that and explain why. 👍👍

Hi Jan! Fantastic work on the 1200! May I ask what the speakers are in the background with the ribbon tweeters?

Finally you're using the fluid peroxide for the keys. Still the hint for you - use doublesided glue tape to stick the keys to the bottom of a bin - then pour the fluid into it, and they don't float. So you can receive a better result in a faster time. Same to small case parts, like the mouse. I like your comment on reusing the fluid - it really works and it's better to the environment ;)

Jan sei eccellente,l'A1200 sembra nuovo.cosi si lavora su AMIGA

Two soldering irons on round caps works.

Also.. i hate that they took the colour sequence test out of the later rom :)

Glad you gave up on snipping, very easy to do damage with that method. To each their own, but how hard are pressing with those cotton swabs? ^_^ Looks great. :D

try diluted CLR , it will remove the rust from both the plastic and metal parts

Hello Jan the Amigaman. Your retrobrightbox will work better with just plane white sides instead of the reflective aluminiumfoil. White will scatter the light into diffusive light that spreads more even. The reflective foil will cause slight focal points where the UV light is more intense then other places causing a more uneven effect on the retrobright.

Nice work as always.

I am not able to see any yellow tint to the white keycaps. But the grey ones on the camera angle with the left side close to the camera. Show a tiny bit of colour difference between the top of the keycaps and the side of the keycaps. White keys look all white to me.

Good work, but I have used ceramic capacitors on my Amiga 1200 to replace the old SMD ones. What do you think @Jan Beta?

When i first opened my A1200, I saw the unpopulated FPU pads and wondered why C= put that in?

30:00 - Caddy

hello does donkey kong ever have a last screen (or does it continue until the game ends maybe?) thanks....

what about other games like danger ranger on the Dragon 32 ? etc????

What’s your opinion on just twisting the caps off the board with pliers, I’ve seen Adrian Black do that on some board repairs

I think that the part that needs the most retro-brighting is the mouse. All that Amiga is missing now is an accelerator.

Come on this boy deserves a 3.2 upgrade too 😋

is the mouse supposed to be that yellow?! or is retrobriting also required :)

Would someone please tell me what the difference is between an A500 (I own one) and A600 or A1200? Sry, total noob here.

Your synth music during timelapses is always on fleek. \o/

Hard disk caddy - soll das heißen ;-).

Oh ja...dieser verfluchte Tastaturanschluss. :D

What about the Floppy Drive? I thought you were going to take that apart and clean that too? After all, it was in the flood too!

That mouse is seriously yellowed ;)

Another AFB!

I was able to remove rust stain on plastic using diluted phosphoric acid

Also don't forget, with some boards, Commodore REVERSED all the Cap-markings on some boards. Please inform yourself before attempting any capacitor replacement!

I wish I could recap my amigas as they are experiencing reboots and crashes:( I'm not that good on soldering and I'm afraid I might damage them.

I indeed let someone else do it, polymer caps and all. Why risk leakage again in 30 years right? :)

Kissé remeg a kezed :)

Here's my hints for recapping A1200's (I do it "professionally" now) 1) Hot air only needs to be 290c. Any hotter is risking desoldering nearby parts, or melting plastic. I've actually found that a small nozzle is LESS effective than using a wider one. 2) Kapton tape is great, but I also find aluminium kitchen foil, folded to several times thickness, makes an excellent protective shroud for nearby connectors. I usually insulate the keyboard connector and audio jacks this way. Sometimes the audio jacks will deform slightly still, but it doesn't affect their functionality. The foil is also cheap and reusable ;) 3) Desoldering the through hole caps can be a pain, mainly because several of them have their -ve side connected to a large ground plane. Don't be afraid to preheat the area with hot air for about 2-3 minutes before using the desoldering gun to get them out. You are less likely to damage the through holes this way. I only really desolder the keyboard connector if there has been visible leakage and I know it's gotten under the connector. Taking the plastic clip off the connector is a good idea though. When insulated by the foil as described above, I've never even slightly melted the connector. It's also good to leave the foil shroud on when fitting the new capacitors, as if you then accidentally touch the connector with the soldering iron it won't leave a burn mark. I often use 5mm 22uF capacitors for the audio capacitors - especially on an A600, as the space is VERY tight. I have a crook tip for my soldering iron which I use to do those. The way I solder on the new caps is to put a small amount of paste flux (i apply it with a brush, actually a makeup brush i stole from my girlfriend's kit ;) on the pads where the capacitor goes. Then sit the capacitor in place, wet the soldering iron tip, and touch the joint. The solder will flow off the iron and onto the joint, leaving just the right amount. When you have the knack of it, soldering a joint takes less than a second :)

If you find another amiga floating anywere send me a message

You need a "Paul" of flux.......

"You can't have too much flux..." Yep, ask Louis Rossmann...

QWERTZ - I thought that was a mistake, i didn't know about that keyboard layout