Wow. Thank you for the kind words, Scott! I really appreciate it!

been doing metal roofing for 22 years myself and i agree this guy is right on the money on his install👍

Thank you!

Thank you Danielle! That means a lot! Especially from somebody experienced in metal roofing.

Thanks Richard! Appreciate your nice comment. I’m glad this was helpful to you, and good luck with all your future projects. May God bless you as well!

Well thank you! I really appreciate that!

Thank you so much!

Thank you Mike! I really appreciate your comment and thanks for watching!

If you used 1x4 strips instead on the bubble wrap, would everything basically work just the same?

Yea, pretty much. Although I would still install a vapor barrier on top of the 1x4’s before installing metal.

Thank you so much! It does take a lot of time and effort to put these videos together. Reading comments like yours makes it all worthwhile. Appreciate the support!

Thank you! Yes she is awesome! Really appreciate the thumbs up!👍🏻

Hey sorry to be a pain but wanted to ask where the best place to buy the ridge cap and the Brillo stuff u used to keep bugs out?Thank You in advance and sorry my previous message I put so much unnecessary information in....Thanks again

It's been a few years, just wondering how your roof turned out and how it's holding up.

Roof turned out great. We sold the house but I drove by it the other day. Still looks like it did the day I finished it.

Thank you for the nice comment! I’m glad they were of some help to you. Good luck with your project!

Awesome! Thank you!

Thanks Ryan!

Thank you Dennis! I appreciate your support. Thanks for watching!

Thank you, Jay!

Thanks Rod! I’m here for entertainment purposes only, lol. Best of luck to ya. Beautiful state you live in. God bless!

Awesome! Good luck with your build. Appreciate the support!

Thank you! Haven’t done a concealed fastener yet but hope to someday.

Thanks William!

Thank you! And thanks for watching!

Thanks Jesse! Good luck!

Thank you!

Thank you for watching, Chris! Really appreciate the compliment. Have an awesome day!

Thank you! I appreciate the support!

Thank you Stanley!

I appreciate the appreciation. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Russell! I appreciate your support!

Thanks Andrew! Same here, I haven’t installed a shingle roof in years.

Thank you Paul! I definitely need to put up some more content. Finding the time to do it has been hard but hope to have some more up soon! Appreciate your support!

Thank you!

Thanks Rob!

Thank you! I appreciate that. Good luck!

Thank you!

Thanks Lori! Appreciate your comment!

Thank you!

Another option would be to fold the ends down. No leaks here though.

Thank you!

Thanks Michael! Good suggestion on the ridge cap. Always nice to hear from a pro. As far as the screw location, you wouldn’t believe the amount of crap I got for screwing on the rib. Had no idea that many people screwed metal in the flat.

@@MT_Homes anybody who tells you its wrong to attach screws through the rib laps is NOT qualified to install any type panel roof system,due to thermal shock screws within the pans leak very quickly ,meanwhile fasteners correctly installed on top of the rib laps suffer less than 5% of the thermal shock aka expansion & contraction as fasteners in the pan ,because the entire panel must expand beyond the flexibility within the rib laps which are stronger due to being 2 layers of metal thick before fastener washer failure takes place . Moving on to loose or missing screws ,if even 1 screw installed inside the pan experiences washer failure due to being under or over driven,or loosened by expansion & contraction ,that lose washer will have over 100x the water flow as a loose washer ,or even a missing screw from the rib lap ,the roof pan is made to take 100% of the water flow ,not rib laps. Lastly all rib laps are made with a bottom side & top side ,the top side of all laps are designed to shed water to the sides of the lap ,even in a downpour very little water flow takes place on top of a rib,the system is designed for the pan itself to be the waterproofing of the structure,the standing seam version of metal panel roofs has no fasteners inside the pan,instead all fasteners are hidden clips that hold down the exposed lap by clipping over the exposed panel edge and attaching to the substrate ,the next panel installed uses its lap to close the seam and fold over to hide the fastening clips ,the whole premise of attaching through the rib lap is to expose the least amount of possible leak areas to water flow,rib lap fastening is the next best thing to installing a standing seam hidden fastener panel system ,anybody who gives you shit for proper fastening is a poorly trained shingle installer trying to be a tin Smith as your crew are ,for all homeowners ,look to this job for proper installation without the use of caulking ,done right a panel roof needs no caulking like shown here on this excellent quality roofing system that will outlast any pamel roof thats attached with screws in the pan by 15 to 20 years.

Thank you Ron!

Thank you! Appreciate the support!

Thanks TR!

Thank you!

Thank you C. J! I really appreciate the nice comment. Good luck with your roof. Thanks for watching!

Unfortunately I only have experience in residential. I’m sure there are other videos on KZfaq here that would be helpful to you. Thanks for watching?

Thank you! Appreciate your support!

Thanks Michael!

Thank you Good Friend! Everybody had their version of the best way to do it and this is mine. Thanks for watching!

Awesome! Thanks for the support!

Thank you sir! Good luck with your project!

Thank you! Wow, that’s a lot of snow! I don’t have any experience dealing with that much snow or ice dams but one thing I would recommend is snow guards to keep the snow from sliding off and taking your gutters with it. Some very heavy duty snow guards. I would talk to your local metal roof expert or your local metal supplier and see what their recommendations are. Good luck, and thanks for watching!

Some areas with high snow require an engineer to sign off on the design. Basically to make sure the roof panels are designed for the load. All manufactures will have allowable live loads which are usually presented in a table with roof panel gauge vs fastener spacing.

Thanks! Nice to hear from across the pond. Hope ya’ll are staying safe.

Thank you! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Thanks for watching!

Thank you Miguel! I never did charge by the square like you do with shingles so I really don’t know what it would come out to. The thing with metal is both the labor and material price can vary quite a bit if the roof has valleys, hips, sidewall, endwall, or dormers vs a flat roof. I always figured my materials then estimated my labor based on how long I thought it would take. I know it’s not the easiest way to do it but as you gain experience it gets easier. Thanks for watching!

@@MT_Homes thank you for your answer Sr. I will be following now on.

Thanks Dennis!

Thanks Aaron! I appreciate the support!

Thank you!

Thank you! I do have a video on how to cut a hole and install a roof boot on a double wall furnace exhaust vent. Not sure if that helps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m8-Urapomby4ZYk.html

Thank you! Amen to that! I haven’t done a shingle roof in at least 10 years.

Thank you very much! And He does every day!

Thank you sir! I appreciate the support!

Nice and neat. You mentioned an r value for bubble wrap , why would you want an R value under your steel when you have a vented attic?

Thanks Thomas! On a 90 degree summer day the attic can reach temperatures of 150/160 degrees. Anything I can do to lower the attic temperature by installing a heat reflective and/or an insulated vapor barrier will save on energy bills.

Thank you for watching!

Thanks Brian! Since your roof has no ridge like this one, best thing to do is to use vented soffit for the eaves on all 4 sides. If you plan on insulating the rafters, I would staple a continuous row of styrofoam baffles the entire length of the roof between each rafter before installing insulation. Hope this helps.

Nice

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Thank you. Altogether I had right at $3500 in materials for this roof, (1200 sq ft house) including the underlayment. Thanks for watching!