😊👍

Thanks Brad for the feedback. Agree that holding power needed varies by location. Sounds like you have a setup that works well for your area and needs.

+Grunter awesome thanks for sharing!

The folding claw anchor shown at 0:23 is not setup how I would use it, but rather how 90% of people use it when they buy it and are new to the sport. I discuss between 3:00 and 3:55 how claw anchors can be setup and I believe I reference that the folding claw anchor can be setup the same to prevent loss via the zip tie method. That folding anchor was given to me by a friend because I needed one as reference in the video. He had it set up that way. I never use the folding claw down here in SWFL. The

You are so very right, so many people have no idea how to rig an anchor.

Thanks. Glad the vid helped you.

On a budget the claw anchor is my favorite for sand and light substrate bottoms. My other favorite anchor(recently) is the Tightline anchor brand. Between those two anchors I use nothing else really. Tightline anchors are bit pricey though. They are ultralight but grip in pretty dang well and quick. Thanks for stopping by the channel. 🙂👍

@@KayakDIY yeah i live in hawaii where everywhere is pretty much sandy bottoms. SO after watching this vid and looking at some forums online I know its the best. I was going to get a danforth anchor, but I couldn't find any that were small enough.

ZombieOnaStick21 biggest thing is positioning the anchor trolley so you either face directly into waves/current or directly away. You never want to have the waves and current hitting the side of your kayak. That will usually result in flipping. If you don't have an anchor trolley I personally prefer having the anchor attached to bow (front) where it is easily reached in case of emergency release. Only on rivers do I prefer my anchor on back and in those cases I make sure to have it so it easily releases when needed. I really love the Scotty Anchor Lock mounted on my bow: bit.ly/scottyanchorlock

ZombieOnaStick21 I will certainly look into opportunities to film the safety scenario you mention. Thanks for the question. I take subscriber requests very seriously.

I do have an anchor trolley and use it often on lakes but have never tried it on a river like this. The anchor will always be off the back so I'll be facing downstream. The only bad part is that the boats will pretty much always throw their waves into the side of the kayak. It sounds like the boats might be more of an issue than the current itself. I'm not sure if that will result in anything bad or not. There aren't a whole lot of tutorials or videos on how to anchor properly in current. I've seen a lot of people just tell you to not do it but there must be a somewhat safe method for doing it. I appreciate your reply and consideration for making a video on it. I know you're probably more into the diy project videos but it seems like a worthy topic to discuss. Anyway, thanks again!

Dwayne Mcguire Buy Scotty Anchor Lock Here: bit.ly/scottyanchorlock Scotty anchor lock is awesome. It is really slick and is built very well. Scotty products never disappoint me. I don't have sponsorship with Scotty, but would love to. I buy a lot of their products and it would save me a lot of money. Haha. My next favorite mount company would maybe be Railblaza.

Ok cool ,,well I'm sold will definitely be getting mine set up with some of there products for sure 👍🎣

🙂👍👍

Tech Zombie thank you. This video was done by subscriber request. Hope it resolved dilemmas on what anchors folks should by.

I use nuts and bolts when I can but sometimes I use Scotty rivets. www.amazon.com/dp/B0062BXAEY/?tag=a41a9-20

I’m trying to be cool like the Pro Bass Fisherman who match their glitter boats. 😂

oscar davila no experience with Mantus Anchors. Trying out Tightline anchor soon. Seems durable yet lightweight.

Yes, I have seen old window weights used as drag anchors. They don't offer much holding power but more or less slow drift.

Ok cool was wondering about that thanks ,,had a feeling that's what they were 👍

Jonathan Chinchilla reasonably close.....I’m in south Cape Coral, FL.

+Ghost Haha!!! Best comment award goes to Ghost!!!

Hopefully everybody realizes that's just a joke unfortunately we have a lot of uptight people in this world that forgot how to use their sense of humor

Make them with high heals ...lol

+Greg West I completely agree. Lost mine. Took a drink in the water. Tight budget. KZfaq doesn't make me rich. I need one before I go to ICAST in Orlando. Likely will get a Rode Vid Mic Pro or Go.

I agree...that bruce claw is great budget anchor for sandy bottoms. Best folding anchor I have ever owned is tightline anchors. They even grip into sand still really well. If I could have only one anchor it would be tightline. They literally tip and grip. I switched over to them as my primary anchor. They cost more, but they are saltwater grade materials and if you use zip tie method it never gets lost.

+Norwood BayBridge Not entirely true. Everyone I know of for kayaking follows the 3x rule due to kayaks having low pull. The general power boating rule is 3x-7x. Kayaks being so small can typically easily get away with the minimum 3x. So basically I think of 3x as the minimum. I follow 3x also because all that line is a pain to store on kayak. Not to mention if you don't have a great line management solution lots of line can be dangerous if you flip in waves. Nothing wrong with following 7x. I'm on Gulf Ocean side and we hit 30-60ft average for max depth. Lots of kayaking areas are only 15ft or less. The 3x rule works well everywhere I have paddled. Close to beach with Hobie TI if surf hits hard I maybe increase to "maybe" 5x with a 4.4lb claw anchor. Else I do 3x.

You are giving bad; and, dangerous; advice when you recommend an anchor scope of only 3 times (x) water depth rather than 7x. You are also giving bad advice to a broad host of kayakers on the internet when you suggest that kayaks have "low pull". Your bad advice to your viewers ratchets up a notch when you strangely claim that, "lots of line can be dangerous if you flip in waves". Your misspent line of thought is akin to telling people that wearing a seat belt when driving a car "is a pain"; which, you really don't need to do because it might wrinkle your shirt; and, if you are in a wreck, a seat belt will hinder you from being "thrown clear" of the subsequent carnage. You; very surprisingly; throw around the phrase, "easily get away with"; which again in your writing, objectively displays your extremely cavalier attitude towards safety; something which should be always taken seriously. A good reason for taking safety seriously is because many kayakers head out for a day of recreation "solo"; not only to enjoy the pleasant and invigorating sport of fishing; but, also to genuinely reflect in an atmosphere of beauty and solitude. However, being alone on the water; and, many times being in the isolated areas where the fishing might be prime; simply adds important reasons to objectively be aware of what a person needs to do to be as safe as possible; especially when no help can be immediately expected to show up. No one can object to that. Please don't give any more bad advice.

Its not bad advice he is giving, its just not universal. A 3x scope is perfectly safe in some conditions, especially reasonably calm conditions. Longer scope is needed in very windy conditions or when trying to hold against a strong current, but if you need that much scope its probably not safe to be on the water in a kayak. Lots of line in the water IS dangerous if you fall overboard and get tangled in it. My grandfather died that way. A kayak does have low pull compared to a larger vessel no matter what the conditions. Its a matter of Mass. A kayak has lower mass than a larger vessel and therefore will have "lower pull".

It is bad advice he is giving. People who have never been on the water before DO watch youtube videos; DO hear bad advice; DO think it's good advice; and, DO pass it on to other people; who also then think it is good advice because it came from a friend or loved one. Now there is an atrocious jump-on-the-bandwagon-nonintellectual-phase-link amongst so-called boating "gurus" ; with, barely enough money for a video camera; and, seemingly without the balancing amount of solid basic boating knowledge; who simply parrot the 3x scope nonsense they hear on other youtube videos. You mentioned that you believe that a kayak does have a low pull compared to a larger vessel. You haven't thought it through: it is not the vessel that has dead weight "pull" power; is is not a matter of the boat's "mass"; it is the weight of the water beneath the boat having pushing power. Wind and waves that will lift a "heavy" boat 6 feet in vertical height will lift a "light" kayak much higher. It is the pushing power of the water and wind against a light watercraft that makes a 3x scope the worst thing you can employ when anchoring. It is not beneficial to teach a 3x water depth anchor scope ratio; and, people; out of sheer respect for the welfare of others; should take no part in it.

It is fine advice and pulling power is a factor of boat mass. Thats physics. If you have better knowledge, do a video about it and spread that so called "good" advice. I didn't see anything about anchors or anchoring kayaks on your channel. I see no evidence that you have any clue what you're talking about. You are a troll. KayakDIY presents plenty of evidence that he knows what he's talking about. You present none. South Dakota is a long way from the ocean. I'll take the advice of the guy that routinely anchors in the ocean over a youtube comment troll. P.S. - I know its good because I've done the same thing in the ocean.