+Paul Gibbs. Thanks Paul. Good to know it helped.

You're welcome

The coupling ring should just fit. I seem to remember it's shaped in such a way you can't get it wrong. When you refit everything make sure the ball bearing is between the two halves of the shaft that operate the governor. If it's not there the governor will not work correctly.

@@AndysShed Im totally lost now. There is no ball bearing. The shaft and large gearing cogslid forward and lost the timing . I reset the timing marks as per diagrams but now the thing wont fire up. Theres spark and petrol but somehow the timing is out. Both the timing marks on the cogs line up at tdc...sparks and clicks but wont run.

When you say the timing marks line up, do you mean the marks on the two cogs in the geartrain that you can see when the triangular back cover is removed from the engine? You don't need to worry about any other timing mark. Just set the engine to exactly top dead centre using the flywheel. Next rotate the mag in your hand until it has just clicked but don't go beyond. Then, without rotating anything, fit the mag back to the engine. Now when you turn the flywheel the mag should click at exactly TDC. This is correct because there is a device in the mag to advance the timing when it is running at full speed.

Hi Peter. I would have to check up on plugs and get back to you on that one. Since making this video I've discovered Petter seem to have made slight changes to the head over the years, which means different length or even different width thread plugs are used on different engines, even though they are all Petter A1s.

Hi Scott. I'm not sure what you mean by the lag angle. The impulse should fire with the engine's flywheel at exactly TDC. To get it to do that what you do is completely remove the mag from the engine, then turn the engine flywheel to exactly TDC. Next grab the cog on the end of the magneto and turn it until it clicks. Don't touch the end of the HT lead otherwise you'll get a belt from it! As soon as the mag clicks make sure you don't turn it any further. Now without turning either the flywheel or the mag, fit the two back together. Turn the flywheel and you'll find it fires at TDC. As far as I know there's nothing else you can adjust. the difference between the mag using the impulse to fire when turning over slowly and knocking the impulse off when running at speed is fixed in the mechanics of how the impulse works, so it can't go wrong. I hope that's answered your question. If it's not then please feel free to get back to me.

@@AndysShed hi Andy,the engine is know running ok,thankyou Scott

Hi Ernie. I would say hold the plug lead against something metal with the plug out, turn over by hand and see if you get a spark. If you do then it will probably go. Setting up the timing is the most difficult bit.

@@AndysShed Cheers for the heads up. I gotta clear some space in my garage. I'll be starting the project in a month or so. I'll let you know how it goes and if I get a spark.

There are two mags commonly used on the A1, a Wico or a Wipac. They are slightly different, but both basically work in the same way and should be interchangable. I would suggest you take the mag off and test it away from the engine. However when you remove it be sure not to lose the metal pin and ball bearing from the end of it that sit inside the brass housing that's attached to the rear gear-train cover. This pin and ball are crutial to push on the throttle lever. Whichever mag you hace, start checking it by removing the cover. Check the internal connection that links the coil inside to the HT lead on the cover. Make sure the contacts are clean and actually touching when the mag is reassembled. Whatever you do, don't fire the mag without the HT lead being very close to the mag body so the spark has somewhere to jump. If the spark doesn'thave anywhere nearby to jump to then it will find the path of least resistance through the coil and could short out some of the windings, making the coil lass effective or even completely inoperable. These mags very rarely go wrong, so chances are you have dirty contacts somewhere or maybe a bad HT lead. Remember to check the points and condenser. Clean everything up and it might well be ok. Let me know how you get on.

Thank you I think it’s the wico square type top will do the soon thanks

Hi Dan. There's a combination of things it could be. First thing to check is that the governor is working as it should. The weights push a pin, which in turn pushes another pin which pushes the governor linkage on the outside. However between the two there should be a tiny ball bearing. If the ball bearing isn't there (they get lost when the mag is removed) it won't be pushing the governor arm far enough to close the throttle on the carb. Also make sure the spring on the bottom of the governor arm isn't too strong. There should be a knurled adjuster on it to effectively alter the spring's length. It could also be bad settings on the carb. Depending which carb it's got, you might have to juggle setting the main jet, slow running screw and which hole the linkage from the governor goes through. The problem is if you don't know which thing is out, it's a lot of trial and error with the carb, governor spring and linkage to get everything right. Maybe try to get it running slowly with the governor disconnected first?