Thanks Gary, it's still a fairly well used example with slightly clattery valves and the like, but it's the one I exhibit most of the time and it'll run all day, powering my lighting set without a hiccup - they don't build them like that any more!!!!

Funnily enough, the subtitling technique was something I thought about right from my very first video - I've tweaked it a bit over the years to make it a bit faster but I'm still using the basic concept.

@@GrumpyTim I love it, totally with the aesthetic of old engines, so much more pleasing and probably less of a pain than generating generic computer created subtitles! nice work!

Cheers Joseph, I have 3 of them, so you're one ahead of me. They're a great little engine, relatively simple and easy to get hold of, but very capable and they sound great too. This engine was a wreck that I bought to use as spare parts, but I couldn't bring myself to strip it for parts, so I ended up getting enough bits to get it running - I paid far more for the parts than I paid for the engine, but it's now a happy little engine that I've displayed several times at events.

@GrumpyTim you are kind like me. I have a lister D that is beyond repair but over the time i have bought parts to get good. Its a future project hope fully and turn it into lister DK

That sounds familiar, engines that have had a hard life deserve a bit of care and attention - look forward to that video one day.

@@GrumpyTim @enginelover1 - where's a good place to get a running or nearly running one that I could take on as a first project with stationary engines?

Even rarer!!!!! It's rusting away at an alarming rate, I think one day it'll break in the middle - I really should harvest the LPG conversion out of it one day!!!

@@GrumpyTim that's a shame, what engine did they put in the lpg vans?

If I remember correctly, it's a version of the BL O Series engine, as used in the Morris Ital amongst others - the 1.7 litre version in this case. That van was converted to LPG rather than coming out of the factory like that.

I quite like the titles on the old typewriter - I run them at double speed on my new videos so there's not so much waiting around while I type!

@@GrumpyTim It is certainly different and quirky!

Hi Nermin, the Petter A1 is pertol. The exhaust on that engine is one I made myself - I briefly show the components before I welded them together in another video, it's about 7 minutes 55 seconds into this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odJimamAscrTppc.html the exhaust was made from one of those disposable MIG welding bottles, cut up and baffles, which were made of some steel tube I had lying around, welded inside, before welding the outer shell back together.

Technically I could build a trolley powered by the engine but I think I'll keep it simple and just use the engine to power other stuff that I haven't actually got yet (I quite fancy one of those old powered hacksaws because that would actually be useful)!!!! Need more stuff, need more space for more stuff, need more time to play with stuff.

Hi Richard, I must admit, if you'd have asked me where the timing should be set, I wouldn't have remembered how many degrees advanced it should be - I've always just done the method that Andy's Shed shows in his KZfaq Video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/apeClsedzZebeXk.html I'm kind of thinking if the engine starts and runs ok but dies under load it could be a fuel issue or the governor. On one of my engines the rod between the governor lever and the throttle butterfly on the engine, was too short (even taking into account the multitude of hole positions in the governor arm). Making a longer connecting rod fixed that issue because the governor arm then sat closer to the pin that protrudes from the centrifugal mechanism, allowing it to operate correctly. Also, make sure that pin is free to move as it should do - the pin can get mis aligned when you re fit the magneto - that's what had happened on my first start of this engine after the rebuild - the inner part of the pin had managed to get itself outside the brass receiver bit on the end of the centrifugal weight section - in that case the engine just revved without any governor, but if it's sticking, it can stop the spring from pulling the throttle open (sorry, that's a very clunky description but if you've dismantled one of these, hopefully you'll sort of understand what I mean). If one of the jets in the carb isn't set correctly or is blocked then that could also stop the engine working when under load - if the slow running jet is correct but the main jet is partially blocked then it could run ok ish until it sees a load, then just fade away as the load is applied. Again, on one of my engines, I had this happen, and a quick clean of the main jet adjustment needle thingy sorted the issue. That's my initial set of thoughts, but feel free to ask for more info.

Engine sound bast???

They get kind of addictive to watch running - it's somewhat hypnotic and relaxing!!!

@@GrumpyTim i think peaple was smarter than us in past at least smarter than me😁

@@miladirani4313 Hi Milad, I think most people are still smarter than me!!! I guess inventions were just more exciting in the past and definitely built to last - I bought that engine to use for spare parts, it had been sitting out in someones garden for years, but when I got it home it seemed a shame to split it up for parts so I ended up getting more bits to get it running and I'm glad I did because it's a great little engine.

I'd had the engine running before I did the strip down and everything was fine but when I re-fitted the governor, the pin hadn't aligned correctly in the brass bushing in the side frame and instead, it had managed to sit at an odd angle, just making contact with the edge of the bushing. I suspect that you are supposed to remove the bushing before you install the governor and then fit the bushing back over the pin from the outside. I'll try that next time anyway because I've found it difficult to get that pin lined up on my other A1 too. Without the pin passing through the bushing there was no governing at all, so when the engine started it was at full throttle - I'm kind of glad I slowed it down fairly quickly! There are other things that can cause the engine to run too fast - I don't know how familiar you are with the mechanism but the brass weights push on a plate which is connected to the pin that goes into the bushing - there's another moving part in the middle of the bushing that transfers this push onto another pin which is inserted from the outside - this external pin can fall out if the governor lever is removed - if the external pin is missing then the governor will never work. Also, if the spring at the bottom of the lever has been replaced with a stronger one, this can make the engine run fast. Finally, the length of the rod from the governor lever to the carb has an effect on the running speed (and the choice of which hole this rod is put into in the top of the governor lever). Hope something in that lot helps - feel free to ask again if it doesn't make sense.

GrumpyTim I’ll thank you on his behalf for the detailed answer 😂

@@mozer30 ohhh k...

Hi Ivan - that engine took me by surprise after the rebuild - I'd had it running before the rebuild and the valves were so leaky that I could turn it past compression without difficulty. When I shot this video, it was genuinely the first run after the rebuild and the additional compression was a bit of a shock!!! It's a great starter now - almost always starts first try. I don't tend to use the valve lifter on any of my Petter A1's (I now have 3 of them). Do you have one of these, and do you use the valve lifter to start them? Definitely a different story on my Enfield Diesel engine - that one would be almost impossible to start without the decompressor.