I'm glad you were able to locate the leak. Hopefully this video gave you enough info to get the job done. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Yes, very helpful! But I'm sad to discover that my main bearings are shot, so it looks like I'm in a for an unexpected engine rebuild. Do you have a video covering that, lol? ;-)

@@randypascarella Nothing on the rebuild front, yet. I'd like to do a 347 Stroker in my car, but I'll have an engine shop do the heavy lifting, so even then I might not have much info for you. :)

Awesome! This kind of feedback is always great to hear. :)

You're correct, I wish I would have looked that up before putting the car back together. :)

Ugh

@@AndyKruseChannel yep you screwed up by not driving that pin all the way out...

Hey Andy thanks for doing these videos man I am just getting into these Mustangs and I am needing a several things to do and by you doing these videos it is really a help to me about a week to free up some of my time and I'm going to jump on replacing my rear seal so thanks for doing that video and there again thanks For the information on removing the pin out of the cap all the way

Thanks guys

Thanks for the feedback! Hopefully this video will make your project a little easier. Heads up, if your bearing cap has that little pin in it (the one I tried to smash down), it needs to come out if you use the type of seal I used here. I had to redo my seal after I made this video because that pin was still in the way. It's been over 4 months since I redid the seal and it's bone dry! :)

No problem, thanks for the support!

Awesome, glad I can help. Good luck with the new seal, you got this!!

I had that same bad luck on my previous '66, thankfully this car was easier. I'm glad you were able to get it done!

Thanks and welcome!

Thanks for the support! 🙂

Awesome, good luck!!

Awesome, I'm glad it helped. :)

If your motor is stock, or at least made before 1983, it's a 2 piece seal and there's no need to drop the trans. You might even be able to do it yourself? :) On a side note, that pin that I smashed down (causing the seal to deform) needs to come out. After I made this video I had to redo the seal again and just remove that little pin in the bearing cap. That pin is there for the older style seals that were kind of like a rope-seal, it's not needed for the seal shown in the video. Good luck!!

The rear main is fairly easy to do. Making sure the seal is facing the right way is important, but also make sure you "clock" the seal like shown in the video. You'll be right as rain when you're done. :)

Yeah, they can be a bear to get out. Either getting one of those "sneaky pete" tools or using a long deck screw seems to be the best options. :)

Thanks!

Thank you! Heads up, that pin in the bearing cap that was pushing on the seal needs to come out. I had to redo the seal a few days later after I noticed it was still leaking. It's been a while now and the new seal is perfect! :)

Thanks for the feedback! Maybe find out if you have a one piece or two piece rear main seal first, unfortunately I don't know that for your car. If it's the a 2 pieces, you can do it yourself. If it's the one piece, strap in and hold, you've got some work to do. :) Sorry Boss, I do not have a radio for my car, but if your radio is not working, this list could be really long on the possibilities of what it could be. I dabble in the Fuse category in next week's video, so check it out next Thursday at 4:00pm PST. :)

Hello there!

Thanks!

Glad you liked it!

Good advice, thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thankfully it's a relatively easy fix. :)

If you have to replace the rear main and you have the original style "rope seal", don't try to drive it out of the block with a screw driver, you need to pull it out from one side. Using a long deck screw should do the trick. Next week's video covers this same topic. :) If you use the Fel-Pro one-piece oil pan gasket, it's designed to have the pan pulled off multiple times before you need to replace it. However, if you have to pull the rear main cap to get after that rear main seal, it's best to just get a need oil pan gasket since you have to use gasket maker in the corners. Between this video and next week's video, there should be enough info for you to easily tackle that rear main. It's not as difficult as it looks. The hardest part of the whole job is getting the top half of the seal out. Whether you have the rubber seal with the metal rod inside, or the old rope seal, my videos have you covered. :)

I neglected to mention that the engine was rebuilt during covid. Now I’m guessing that the rear seal may have been put in incorrectly. Time will tell. That shop since has used all tactics to wash there hands of it. They also were supposed to replace all the seals in the transmission as well., I’m thinking new video 😉

@@markfoster2530 Sorry to hear about your Shop. It could also be the seal is backwards? Seals on the trans? Haha, now we're definitely outside of my wheelhouse. :)

Thanks! For the QuickJack, I think they're a great alternative for those that can't afford or don't have the space for a traditional lift, as long as they only want to work on the front end or rear end of the car. While there's not much going on in the middle section of a car, the placement of the Quick Jacks make it impossible to access the middle section of the car from the side, you'd have to access it from either end of the car. In some circumstances that may not be a big deal, or the available access is sufficient, but an issue none the less. Beyond that, there's over 2 feet of clearance once lifted into the air, more than enough room to remove a transmission, rear axle removal, and in some cases maybe enough room to pull an engine from below. The largest advantage these offer is the height and relative space available under the front of the car to service most tasks an owner would need to do. The stability is good, and the build quality appears to be plenty good enough for the rated weight limit. The pump speed is fine, probably about as fast as a traditional lift in inches per second of lift. I wish the hydraulic hoses were a little more flexible, but now I'm just splitting hairs. Outside of the lack of access from the side of the car, the only other issue is the setup time. These take longer to move, position, and lift the car compared to traditional jack stands. I have mine hanging on the wall, so getting them down (they're kind of heavy), and rolling them into position, sliding them under the car, placing the pads in the correct spot, lifting them a little to make sure the pads are in the correct place, and finally lifting the car can be a little time consuming. I have opted to use jack stands in place of these Quick Jacks a few times just because of the extra setup time. That being said, the Quick Jacks offer way more ground clearance than my jack stands and I'd have to buy a special jack to lift the car high enough for taller jack stands, and I'd have to buy those too since I only have standard height jacks. The unit I have is the 3500SLX, and I purchased it from Costco when when it was on sale for $999. In the end, I'm glad I have the Quick Jack, I use it when I need more ground clearance.

@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you for all the information! My issue is a lack of height for a lift. This seems like a reasonable alternative, even with the limitations that it has. I’ve read mixed reviews but I’m glad yours has worked out for you. Im gonna get one.

Yeah, sometimes tracking this stuff down is difficult and frustrating. If it is the original oil pan, or it's not new, the flange could be warped from people over tightening the pans bolts over time. This can be fixed by putting the pan open-side down on the garage floor and tapping the flange with a hammer until it's completely flat on the floor. Good thinking on the gally plug, but the transmission, flywheel, and block plate all need to come off to check that. Hopefully your flywheel bolts have loctite on them, or oil will get passed the threads and look like a rear main seal leak. The weird part is you say it leaks overnight without putting oil in it. It might be time to head over to VMF and ask the boys there if they can pin point the issue. :)

@AndyKruseChannel Thank You Andy! Great ideas! I will put them to work, and see what happens from there, and will let you know in the end what it turned out to be. Thanks again!

Thanks, but no. :) The car was painted in April 2020, a few months before I purchased it.

I had the same issue with a small part of the seal getting scraped off. The car is fine, no leaks, no problems. I would imagine it depends on how much material was scraped off before it would become an issue. I have not heard or read anywhere that torqueing the bolts to let the sealant cure was needed before final torqueing. Sorry boss, I don't have any good data for you on anaerobic sealants. :)

No, no need to trim them. The rubber shell of the seal will squish a little if needed when everything is bolted together. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel yeah, didn’t think so….strange tho …it wouldn’t fit. Checked the felpro # too. It says u can trim the rope seals, but no mention on the neoprene seals…I’ll do some more research. Thanks!

Correct. I had to go back after I made this video and do it again because the pin was still sticking out a bit. But ever since then the car has been drip free! :)

I don't think I understand the question? The trans is stuck in first but it was pushed into neutral without using the clutch?

Yes, this can be done on the street. Unless you're doing it on the main drag strip in town, the amount of dust that might get kicked up is negligible. Yes, you can clean these surfaces with brake cleaner. Just make sure to use a good towel to thoroughly wipe the area down when done. I like to use those blue-paper shop towels that come on a roll, like regular paper kitchen towels.

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you

Yep, got it. :)

If you mean the crank bolt holding the Harmonic Balancer on the other end of the motor, I'm not seeing the relation to making the seal install easier. However, loosening all the Main Caps can help. I did it that way on my first classic Mustang (red car), and I didn't have any issues after the install. I did not do that on my second and this Mustang, still have no issues. :)

Thanks for the heads up! :)

Unfortunately I do not know the history of this engine beyond about a year ago. So it may have stood the test of time. :)

Get a long wood screw (like a 4 inch long deck screw), thread it up into the seal, and pull it out a chunk at a time, that's what I did. I order one of those "sneaky pete" tools, but it didn't arrive before I got impatient and just used a screw. You'll find that if you can get about half of it out on one side, you can thread the screw up into the other side and probably pull the other half out in one piece. Good luck!!

@@AndyKruseChannel was able to get a long punch. Okay was using a short one with low leverage . The new one is not going on as smooth

@@dieselburner4461 Sorry brotha, I completely misread your comment, I thought you were having trouble getting the old style rope seal out, not the new style. With the new style, punching it out is the way to do it, but it looks like you got that part figured out. On the new seal, make sure you thoroughly lube it up with engine oil before sliding the upper half into the block. If possible, it wouldn't hurt to squirt some oil up into the seal slot in the motor (which goes around the top of the crank) because oil will help the new seal get in there. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel it’s cool bro. I was able to get it out and install the new one. Clocked . With the lip facing the front of the engine as stated. I think I used 10w30 conventional but as soon as I started the engine and drove it around, the rear main started leaking a bit again. I’m confused now lol

@@dieselburner4461 Couple of things that may play a role. - Hopefully there's loctite on the flywheel/flexplate bolts as those bolts go through the end of the crank and into the oil pan area. If not, they can leak and make it appear to look like a rear main seal leak. - If the bearings are down to the copper and or look fairly worn out, there may be enough "slop" for oil to leak out, and a new seal won't stop it. - If the pin is still in the bearing cap (like the problem I had in this video), the new seal is toast, and it will leak. - You mentioned you clocked the seal (good), but did you put a dab of gasket maker on each end of the new seal (where they meet)? If not, it's possible a leak could happen there. - You mentioned the seal lip facing towards the front of the motor (good), but if you accidentally got turned around on the bearing cap and thought the seal was facing the correct way, it would leak if it was backwards. This got me one time. - When installing the main cap, there needs to be gasket maker in the sharp 90 degree corners where the cap mates to the block. - The trough in the bearing cap needs to be cleaned from any left over gasket maker form the previous time the seal was replaced (at least once since you have the new style seal in there). If the new oil pan gasket can't sit in the trough smoothly, oil can get by. - The rim of the oil pan needs to be cleaned of any previous gasket maker. You probably already did that. - I recently found the head gasket was leaking subtly, oil went down the side of my block, around the rim of the oil pan, and dripped off the back, making it look like a rear main seal. Maybe double check you have no leaks like that. - If the valve cover gaskets are leaking, the oil can run down the side of the block, or even the back of the block, making it look like a rear main seal leak. I'm sure you've covered all this stuff, but I hope your issue is on this list as these are the easiest to remedy (except the flywheel bolts). Good luck!! 😀

Darn it, now the video is not as good as I was hoping.

@@AndyKruseChannel It's fine, if people read the comments (Which they should) then they will find out the pin needs to be removed. You did a good job on the video so well done

@@Jmsrestomods4824 Thank you! Not everyone reads the comments, but that's ok.

Correct

Thanks