Thank you Terry. It's always fun to work on a blue Singer.

Thank you. We have decided to replace the old carbon resistor foot controller with a new electronic model. That way Lelia won't have any trouble or repairs in the future. Of course I will salvage the beautiful matching blue vintage cords and transfer them into the new controller. (Hopefully) I decided to film the work so there's one more video of this 347 before Lelia picks it up. Stay tuned please.

Thanks Dorothy. Lelia will be picking it up soon. I'm excited for her to see it in person and "test drive" it.

On my wish list.

It's a beautiful machine. With any luck, the machine in the shed is a model 348, the upgraded version of the 347. I've never changed the gear on a 347, but I do have one gear changing video (top gear, vertical shaft) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g5mSededu5e9Zqc.html

Hi V, congrats on your 347. 1. Does the handwheel spin? Is the stop motion knob disengaged for bobbin winding? Then the needle does not move. See this video @ 12:00 to learn about stop motion. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ps9lmc6D2puqnXU.html 2. Is motor belt loose or missing? See this video @ 15:20 to learn how to remove the motor cover plate. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lamAhbqVrNSbgHU.html Go here to download a free copy of the 347 instruction manual. www.singerco.com/uploads/download/9f6eff644490da1893548ddbe0cc151030fb5189.pdf Go here to download a free copy of the 347 parts diagram. parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/3_39999/347K.pdf Good luck.

Congratulations! I'd buy it just for the color, but it's a very capable machine. Here is a video for replacing the motor belt, but sometimes it's just stiff (use alcohol) or needs to be adjusted a tiny bit tighter due to age. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLR8f8aQnrrUmIk.html Thanks for watching my channel.

Try this video:kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hrlzjJpjx7CXqGw.html The + | - dial is plastic and the crossbar that the pin pushes on can crack/break and stop working properly. Search YT b/c I've been told soaking the plastic in a strong solution of Hydrogen Peroxide in the sun can remove the yellowish tint. Works best on white plastic but a couple viewers told me it also works on lighter colors too, like yellow, blue, etc. I've never tried it. It discolors from the type of plastic and oxidizes from light. I don't mind it myself as I have some blemishes too.

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much Andy, I just spent the last 30 minutes looking around so let me go check this video out. I figured there was gonna be one similar🥰

@@rhondamercado7527 Once you assemble a couple you'll get it, no worries.

Lo siento, pero ahora no soy dueño de esta máquina, por lo que no se pueden hacer nuevos videos. Estos son algunos de mis videos para enhebrar la unidad de tensión en máquinas con sistemas de tensión similares. Tal vez ellos pueden ayudarte. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h7Z2hKuAvbTaYX0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oZaihZOW19Sdm3U.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hr12gKp2q5_WqYU.html También puede descargar una copia gratuita del manual de instrucciones de Singer: www.singer.com/search/support?title=347 En la página 9 del manual verá instrucciones para enhebrar la aguja y tensar. Además, en las páginas 36, 37 y 38 hay instrucciones para usar una placa de cubierta de alimentación para bordar, coser con movimiento libre y zurcir. No puede dejar caer los dientes de arrastre en esta máquina, por lo que debe cubrirlos. Su máquina debería haber venido con una placa de cubierta como esta: www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/vintage-original-feed-cover-plate-fits-singer-models-240-247ap-252-257-258 -259-288-327-328-329-337-338-347-348-353-354-360-362-366-367-413k-413k13-416k-418-457-466-476-477-478? Variante = 17705494577250 Muchos de estos están perdidos ahora y son difíciles de encontrar. Hay un plato de plástico más nuevo y más pequeño que muchas personas usan ahora, como este: www.ebay.com/itm/282457829861 Buena suerte y gracias por ver mi canal.

Great question, Lana, thank you. Basically, it indicated less (minus) tension or more (plus) tension on the needle thread. The part where those symbols are is called the "Indicator Dial" and if you turn the thumb nut left towards the minus side it lessens tension on the needle thread. If you turn the thumb nut right it increases tension on the needle thread. The needle thread tension needs to be balanced with the bobbin thread tension so the "cross stitch" is formed between the layers of fabric. The part with the numbers is called the "Numerated Dial" and the numbers are just a reference for you. You turn the thumb nut left or right and you will see a number line up with the center divider mark between the - & +. The average is about 4 for good tension on a Singer machine. Let's say you have the number set to 4 but the needle thread "loops" under the fabric. That means there is not enough tension on the needle thread and it's getting "pulled down" by the bobbin thread. You start turning the thumbnut to the right or + side to add more tension. Maybe you need a 5 or 51/2 or 6 on your machine and what you are sewing to get the balanced stitch. The next time you sew that fabric you may remember a good tension for it is 6, so you start with that. Usually when you sew a zigzag stitch you use a little less tension, maybe 3 and if you sew satin stitching (very close ZZ stitching) you might only need a 2 or 1 1/2 setting. The Singer instruction manuals have a nice description of finding the balance. You can go here to the Singer Support page: www.singer.com/support and enter your machine's model number in the search box then click "VIEW MANUALS" and it takes you to a page with the instruction manual for your model and the manual is free to download. For example; if you have this model in the video, 347, you enter that in the search and you can download a 52-page copy of the manual with all the info about your machine, from threading and bobbin winding to tension info (page 16) to basic sewing, all the settings on the machine, sewing straight seams, sewing curved seams, sewing zigzag, blind hem, applique, embroidery, darning, sewing on buttons, and even how to clean and where to oil the machine. Thank you so much for watching my channel and welcome to Andy Tube.

First, make sure the thumb nut is turned all the way left so the indicator slide is not wedged against the faceplate. If the thumb nut is stuck drop a little oil or WD40 on it to free it up. If it turns left a lot you may be able to lower the lever now. If it is still stuck then the feed regulator inside behind the cover plate at least needs oil and may need cleaning. If you have an oil bottle with a little tube you can reach inside and get oil onto the slide block in the regulator. Just use sewing machine oil inside. If you use WD40 type of product you will need to clean that off with alcohol and get SMO in there after. Here is a video all about working on the feed regulator system (stitch length control) on a model 403A and your machine has the basic same style of regulator. You don't necessarily need to remove it, but just get some oil on it properly to see if that is why it is stuck. You should also oil the whole machine properly b/c when you move that little lever it is moving bigger levers and shafts inside the machine that control how far the feed dog moves between needle strokes. You can download a FREE Singer Instruction Manual for you machine from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=347 Pages 42 to 45 have cleaning and oiling instructions. From one Awesome Dad to another, good luck.

That's a very broad question, Benny. Yes, it will sew 1000D. Say you want to make a go-bag. Two layers are sewn together for the body and ends. No sweat. Then you sew two layers with a little padding inside for some straps to carry it. No sweat. Now you want to sew the straps to the bag. Hmmm... that's four layers now and more difficult. So it depends on what and how you want to sew the fabric for. This is a standard domestic machine for household use and could probably do it. Use #69 or 70 Bonded Nylon Thread and a size 100/16 or 110/18 Jeans needle. I would definitely buy a "Walking Foot" attachment for it. Something like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/370643943540?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 They are also called "even feed" and help keep the layers together and lined up while sewing. I would rather have a gear-drive vintage Singer machine though. The machine in this video uses a belt-drive, and it is a good machine) say a model 201-2, 15-91, 301A, 403A, or 404 maybe. (The 404 is considered a Heavy Duty Domestic model and was used in 1,000s of school home ec classes.) If you want something a little more modern any Singer Model 44xx. Those are also considered HD and can sew 1000D. If you're asking about this 347 b/c you have access to one and will just be sewing a few items I'd give it a try. Whichever machine you choose if it is used I recommend reseating the carbon motor brushes and cleaning the commutator for best performance. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/puChZ9enndfSaWg.html The foot controller/pedals are often overlooked and need servicing as the vintage ones are carbon stack resistors made with small discs that may need cleaning and adjusting for full power to the motor. All of what I have mentioned, other than the 44xx models, are in playlists on my playlist page and the videos (600) show how to clean, adjust, restore, and repair the machines, motors, and pedals. Good luck and thanks for stopping by.

@@andytubesewing1953 all I can say is wow thank you for all the info. I would really like to take a shot at making my own pack. Nothing crazy but the pack I’m looking for does not exist. I loves some features on a bunch of different packs I just wish they could be put all in one pack.

@@andytubesewing1953 I would love a sail rite but 1k is a little more then I want to spend. I’m just looking for a machine that can handle zig zag straight stitch and the layers that it will take to make a pack. You think signer 44xx would be able to handle that ? Looking forward to your reply. Thank you for your time

@@TheBennynyc2 Most of us would love a sailrite machine, right? Singer Slant-O-Matic Special Model 403A would be a good choice for you. Straight & ZigZag sewing along with about 22 snap-in pattern discs for fancier ZZ design. Most of the crafters who bought this model from me used it for sewing heavy fabrics into packs, go bags, upholstery, messenger bags, luggage rack covers, Sunbrella patio covers, etc. The Slant part comes from the nose being slanted towards you at about 9 degrees, moving the needle almost an inch towards you. The presser feet are also 1/4" taller and those two things allow a much better view of your working area. The motor is .7AMP and is driven by gear, not belt, and all the hook shafts are steel with steel gears, so direct drive without belts or pulleys. The bobbin is a top drop-in facing the front (you) for easy access. The tension unit is easily adjustable and can handle the thread you want. The presser foot lift is about 1/4" so thick fabrics are OK. It can use a walking foot attachment (slant, not straight) It can sit on your bench or table for use, or be mounted in many Singer cabinets. Replacement parts, when rarely needed, are available online and on eBay, etc. Here are 27 videos about the machine: kzfaq.info/sun/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg and you can download a free copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer Support at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403a IMO, a very good and affordable choice. I've paid as little as $45 up to $175 depending on condition and accessories included buying from local craigslist. Here is an example of one selling for $150 including the rare plastic carry case ( much lighter than the bigger wooden case) www.findsmarket.com/product/vintage-singer-model-403a-slant-o-matic-needle-sewing-machine/

@@TheBennynyc2 Singer model 403A

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ps9lmc6D2puqnXU.html www.singer.com/search/support?title=347