After this video, I played A LOT with all devices and all connectors to make a BIG table of all pairings... In the end: I still need to go more in depth on this topic BUT I published a big and useful table in the online courses available here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ The Clepsydra S is one that works incredible with all grigris, LOV2 (not LOV3), uAscend, Revo etc. The Micro Traxion best works with ovals with thick locking gate sleeve (the Petzl ) + 3 models of Anti-cross-biners ON THE SMALL SIDE: DMM Ceros, Metolius Gatekeeper and Grivel Clepsydra L and the Clepsydra S actually is a good one too!! (Not the BD Gridlock that will break quick if used on the small side or could be bad-loaded on the big side). Cheers!!

Great content, thanks for the lowdown. I use some of the rubber DMM sling keepers to hold my roll'n'lock / microtrax in the correct position on the DMM klettersteig carabiner, mitigating the crossload or gateload horrors. Thanks so much for going through the different setups!

Great video. After watching this video, I tested the DMM Ceros (brand new) with the Petzl Micro Traxion (brand new)...and I was surprised that I was able to find a way to slide the Micro Traxion hole over the DMM Ceros "horn"....the same way you demonstrated with the "Grivel Clepsydra S".

Thank you for such an insightful and practical demonstration.

Mind blowingly excellent stuff. Thank you! This will also help with another place I sometimes see cross loading that is hard to correct once it happens: at the load end of a haul when using an inverted microtraxion instead of a plain knot and knot protector.

Well done for looking into this… especially the old grigri failure mode

Good stuff. Things you may never know/think about until it becomes an issue.

Great videos, thank you! I find the Grivel Clepsydra Small Twin Gate works really well with my Petzl Shunt for TRS on one strand. The attachment hole in the shunt is so small that it will not slide over either the gates or the hump on the clepsydra. On the other strand I use a SAR rocker with an old DMM Belay MAster. When I get to the top of the pitch I remove the rocker and attach my tuber to ab back down, using the shunt as a backup for the ab.

Time for Ryan to do some testing in the slack snap 👌

Thank you. Very important safety-related information.

CLEPSYDRA L K10G pairs very nicely with the rollnlock, shifted my load out after this video

Really great video, much food for thought, as always. Cheers

Very nice setup a lot of work!! Bravo

Thanks for taking the time to make this. I've been using a GriGri on a Gridlock the wrong way for 7 years. Unreal! Will build TRS kit soon.

Thanks Yann!! I had a discussion with a guy working at the climbing gym yesterday about this very thing. He was telling me I was wrong and putting my carabiner on incorrectly and backwards. I use the BD Gridlock with the Gri Gri + and I put the GriGri on the small end of my BD Gridlock when I use it because of the cross loading danger and the testing done by How not 2 and Hard is Easy confirmed this, again recently. I will NOT be changing how I attach my BD Gridlock to my Gri Gri regardless of whether the “certified guide” tells me I’m wrong. lol

Hi, I love the way you explain Rope Solo and try to make it as safe as possible by mentioning possible dangers. Showing someone how not to do something or how not to do something sometimes helps you gain more understanding than just showing them how to do it. Very cool also that you have all the products you showed in your video in the video description list. With the whole carabiner cross-loads problem you have not mentioned the Petzl Tanga, a thick rubber ring that is pulled over the carabiner and so prevents a cross-load. Have you worked with Petzl Tange already and what do you think to use it as addition cross-loading prevention? However, your idea of ​​using the carabiner upside down, i.e. the thinner end on the belay device and the wide bend on the belt, is awesome. Thanks for the inspiring video about Rope Solo climbing, lanki

Perhaps youve mentioned it in other videos, but why do you replace your belay loop with a Petzl Open Ring?

The rollnlock pairs really well with a metrolius element carabiner. When locked, the crab only allows the rollnlock to stay on the wide end with no possibility of cross-loading. Stay safe out there.

The DMM Rhino (what you showed is actually the DMM Ceros, but that probably would be the same) works great with the RollNLock as the carabiner gate doesn't fit through the device hole. For my microtrax when doing TRS, I have resorted to using 2 rubber keepers on a Petzl Sm"D to keep the device on the top basket of the carabiner. It's slightly fiddly as one keeper has to be removed every time I take the trax on and off the rope, but it totally prevents weird cross loading. I'm not sure what carabiner would actually prevent cross loading on a microtrax without keepers.

I've been learning about LRS lately, so excuse me if this is ignorant: Why would you prefer a steel link over aluminum for LRS? I would imagine that with a dynamic rope the slight give in the system wouldn't allow peak forces to reach above the 22kN breaking point of the gridlock (assuming the use of a grigri here would justify the major axis loading value for the gridlock, since it seems like crossloading with a correctly oriented grigri is a non-issue).

Great vid

Good thinking about the links for LRS. You can achieve some wild angles between you, your belay device and your last piece while leading. Best to use an oval or D-shape.

I think I disagree about the risk assessment. I TRS a lot and always with two devices, and I've never had a device slide onto the gate. And if it did then I still have two devices, so if that highly improbable event happened and I broke the gate of the carabiner I would just fall on my secondary. I think the most important thing with these carabineers is that they don't rotate around the belay loop. I think that's what has caused all the weird crossloading i get with normal biners. Being able to stop it from going over the spine side seems the most important to me as it's designed to push the device to the spine side. For that reason I agree that the ideal carabiner would prevent the device from going over the gate, but it seems not that important to me for TRS. None the less, lots of great information and great video! Keep the info coming

Ocun Condor is my favourite

Thank you so much for the video! I have the current gen grigri and picking up climbing again. What carabiner would you recommend? Normal oval?

I quite like the Ocun Condor HMS Triple with an additional Petzl Tanga in the place where the Grivel Clepsydra has got that „nose“.

some good points

Why did you replace the belay loop with the ring?

Simple solution, use a rubber bung to restrict movement over the nose!

The DMM is called the Ceros. I bought two of these and found them to be useless with my rope runner pro. I found that I was better off with an oval carabiner with a captiv.

Beware of the DMM Belay Master 2 with the Grigri, there was a TRS incident with this setup when the plastic clip was missing, the Grigri hung up on the grooves in the back bar and snapped it. Climber is OK fortunately, Tom Randall. I'll see if I can find the article.

Woah, does your harness have a metal ring for the belay loop?

Great channel, I appreciate you looking out for us. As an additional caution, I want to warn against the use of any toothed device when a fall is possible - teeth can shred your primary life support device-your rope. Petzl describes micro traxion’s use for emergency use as an ascender - not everyday belay. When configured well, the old fashioned prusik can get you where you need to go. Pulley carabiners are nice multi-functional boosters too. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/atSnoLV3l8u4aHk.html P.S. I feel very secure with my Grivel Clepsydra S and gri gri (original) combination -quick, compact, convenient, safe. captive end lives compactly on harness belay loop, and the twin gate end end keeps gri gri well oriented, with less risk of fumbling a connector.