Learn different techniques for rope ascension with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association.
Пікірлер: 192
@TheGoldenFridge3 ай бұрын
Nothing like having data connection 400 ft into a multi pitch to youtube 'something real quick'. Thanks!
@ChristianTreber9 ай бұрын
Great to see different methods from "no special equipment at all" to "using all the good stuff".
@mymobile50142 жыл бұрын
One of my favourite channels. No unnecessary distracting chatter: just good, clear explanation of what's happening.
@flixflix4714 Жыл бұрын
In france we have only fuc**** morons, thinking they are funny doing silly things while explaining something as important as this. ****
@natechadwell3 жыл бұрын
My favorite rope ascending video on YT! Thank you!
@camperdog38764 жыл бұрын
This is absolutely the best video I ever seen, Thank you Olivia.
@Schmicks5 жыл бұрын
5min in your personal fav is now my personal fav. Your awesome, keep winning!
@robokubkub5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this Video. This is the best summary out on KZfaq for this whole topic. Great work.
@climbfun99423 жыл бұрын
Thank you Olivia! This video is very useful! I think it can save many lives!
@Melanie-Shea2 жыл бұрын
That's such a slick use of the garda hitch, never thought of that!
@fordguyfordguy3 жыл бұрын
Wow nice summary of several techniques! Thank you!
@bruderbrot52684 жыл бұрын
I have just tried the Garda Hitch for the foot + Clove Hitch as a backup. It works incredibly well since the non loaded strand from the Garda Hitch is always readily accessible from above and can be used to smoothly move the hitch. Thanks for showing the technique!
@johngo62836 жыл бұрын
Backing up with the clove hitch is a great idea. I also like the Garda hitch for the foot, hadn’t seen that before. Excellent video!
@matteobmaontube3 жыл бұрын
The foot attachment with 2 carabiner is amazing and genial ! Thks Olivia :-)
@gaudencioboniceli12634 жыл бұрын
Thank, it's true that multitude of Instructors that are able to demonstrate the Techniques we could learn Tons of Skills and Knowledge. Unlike some instructors they just talks while on the ground and unable to show/demonstrate how the system and techniques works. You are one of the few mentors that is reliable source of information and knowledge. Again, thank you.
@mikaelkallio91015 жыл бұрын
This is the very and only one of the moments I can imagine being over there. I’d so would love to be teached by someone like you. Yeah, my mom and dad should never know where I climbed when young and dreaming of being a professional mountain climber...which I am not, but I make improvements. This is one of the reasons I could possibly reconsider moving back to my native countries Finland and Sweden. Thank you/ Denmark is a flat country...
@kazo0ie6 жыл бұрын
good instructions, good techniques, well explained.
@340wbymag3 жыл бұрын
This is how I am learning to climb, but I haven't figured out which prusik hitches and knots I am most comfortable using yet with my ropes. So far it has been great fun!
@ThePaulari4 жыл бұрын
This is one of the best climbing instructional videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you!
@JoseRoberto-kl6ie6 жыл бұрын
Very nice demonstration. Usefull tips. Thank You. Cheers!
@derekridge85013 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much, your presentation is very clear and easy to learn and have added more safety ideas to my data base.
@p.richter95925 жыл бұрын
That was a great video. Learned something new. Thank you very much.
@alexmetcalfe46683 жыл бұрын
This is a fantastic resource. Thanks guys 🙏.
@sergiocolombo25506 жыл бұрын
Thanks Olivia. Today I learned two new techniques. First, using the clove hitch as the backup rather than connecting the lower prussik to the belay loop. Simply ingenious. Second, using the garda hitch for a much smoother raising of the foot loop. I Have been been a climber for many years, and this is just another example that you can always learn something new if you're willing to listen. Your videos are very very good. Simple, well explained and to the point. Good job!
@klikitzsmith84164 жыл бұрын
mee too, both those things. How good is it going to be trying that garda with a chest ascender. So fast
@natechadwell3 жыл бұрын
☝️ I agree with Sergio
@natechadwell3 жыл бұрын
Kikitz , I’ll going to try that set up ...garda/chest asc. Combo. Sounds legit!
@bobbob-wv7ho Жыл бұрын
Same feelings as well
@jazzit2513 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this (the prossick one) was exactly the simple setting I was looking for
@DeShark886 жыл бұрын
Another great, well-produced video. Great stuff! Thank you!
@OldSloGuy6 жыл бұрын
Very informative. I am a tree climber. These techniques are not my primary methods, but if you drop some gear, find it out of reach or fouled, reconfiguring for progress always beats no progress. Surprises happen and you have to deal with them.
@jessiego19055 жыл бұрын
Cheers, Olivia. These tips are very helpful! Carefully explained and professionally demonstrated.
@bvseediermedia6 Жыл бұрын
Just the tutorial I was looking for. Never even heard of the Garda method - and can’t wait to try it. Many thanks.
@outdoorresearch Жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@cldfactor Жыл бұрын
Super informational . And have three of those tools already in my box and eger to employ shiny new tools.
@chvishal5 жыл бұрын
Thats some great audio. Well done.
@elsontv83514 жыл бұрын
Tanks,I learned new techniques from this video..
@CitizenOperatingSystems2 жыл бұрын
Coming from other disciplines entirely, this is a badass and handy tutorial!
@danielusa9985 жыл бұрын
This was ones of the best videos I’ve seen
@kazgpt58752 жыл бұрын
Thanks .. I learnt some cool techniques hope to use them in the Himalayas
@miguelcastorena42934 жыл бұрын
nice vid, really thorough and helpful
@josephshaddix61195 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the garda hitch. Well done
@AdventureDarin6 жыл бұрын
Garda was dope. I have never seen that.
@fogia4enl6353 жыл бұрын
05:00
@M0rtanius4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Very informative video. Other ascending tutorials give the impression that the only way to ascend the rope is to use expensive Jumar's, but this video makes it much more easy with just leg slings.
@pieterveenders97932 жыл бұрын
And what she left out is the fact that there are about 6-8 different types of rope climbing knots, many of them superior to the classic klemheist. The Bachmann knot for example functions almost like an improvised ascender, where the carabiner used as part of the Bachmann knot can be grabbed like an ascender handle and very easily slid up the rope. The Valdotain Tresse knot is superior to classic prusik setups as well because it doesn't have to be loosened first before moving it higher up the rope.
@nirtzabag Жыл бұрын
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO !
@ushi1202 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video, very informative. May I ask for a second video where you show us different possibilities to change the systems from ascent to descend. Thanks in advance
@patrickgarrett83734 жыл бұрын
thank you Olivia you taught dog a new trick
@Achisachis734 жыл бұрын
great video, thank you
@rittickmondal9749 Жыл бұрын
Very well explained ❤
@1stFlyingeagle3 жыл бұрын
I like the double carabiner trick. Nice one.
@bouldermatt88845 жыл бұрын
When i jumar and use a grigri as back up to prevent cross loading i use a DMM carabiner which has a gate for the belay loop to pass through at the bottom which prevents the movement of the carabiner reducing the chance of cross loading (obviously the grigri could still move into a cross load position)
@SlamPvP5 жыл бұрын
coming from tree climbing using a short sling or cord around the neck or chest + attached to the micro traxion when ascending using the garda method. It would tend the pulley as you stand. you could then just advance the garda and as you stand up your neck tether will tend the traxion
@znecmith62704 жыл бұрын
You are great...thank you
@smileytwins Жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing.
@flaviohenriquebezerradasil40373 жыл бұрын
Show de bola, parabéns pela técnicas apresentadas
@gabe00002 жыл бұрын
Excellent audio
@mehmetalibozbay52822 жыл бұрын
Thanks olivia
@r1pperduck3 жыл бұрын
Not sure why I'm watching this, but thanks for the free info.
@craigrollinson33264 жыл бұрын
Hi there, Thank you for the great videos. I am a complete novice and I just wondered if the first method shown would be the best to learn first. The other methods look a little more complicated for not much more distance, how do you decide which you use. Many thanks
@equipeverticaladventure39216 жыл бұрын
Muito boa dica de ascensão
@adammayo93024 жыл бұрын
That first part made my butthole pucker up. I get that all of that stuff is well within it’s working limits but just that back up with just the Clovehitch was freaking me out. I always do one micro on the foot, one right at waist that just rides along unless it’s needed and an ascender up top. It is great to know the basics for emergency situations though, so great video
@agerken3 жыл бұрын
Good explanation! How do I switch to descent, when I am hanging in a ascent system?
@trekkingchannel47523 жыл бұрын
Thank you 👍🏽
@marcocruz64625 жыл бұрын
Thank you olivia .. what kind of knot did you use on garda Hitch please thank you
@mariusztv43395 ай бұрын
Well done
@Syritis4 жыл бұрын
Can you use the guarda in place of the hollow block for ascending with the grigri?
@trevethan823198415 жыл бұрын
Would a roll &lock be good as a chest asender
@Skeetmgeett4 жыл бұрын
How about the ease of changeover for each method. Using the rap device as your ascender could add to complexity when changing to rappel. Great video
@fatihfatih3153 Жыл бұрын
thanks oliva
@vlaaady Жыл бұрын
Love it! Can I use a King Dock device instead of micro traction?
@aguaman23752 жыл бұрын
Thanks, that´s a great instructional video. Just one question, in regular multi-pitch rock climbing, when do you ever need this? I could just imagine if you fall in a difficult overhang and are unable to top-rope up again?
@grahamkolb29164 жыл бұрын
In the first setup, why use two different friction hitches? (Prusik for waist, klemheist for foot). Also, could you girth hitch a single length sling through the double length foot attachments in these setups in order to pull/push up with both legs, instead of one foot stacked on top of the other? Never really had to ascent like this before, not sure if that would be beneficial at all. Great video, thanks!
@bencheevers66932 жыл бұрын
Climbing is just so interesting to me, I was really wondering how it all worked and enjoy learning about gear and procedure, that carbiner being the only thing that's holding you up crossloading that easily seems scary, I've heard people talk about how great spring gate carabiners are but if the carabiner crossloads right on that gate, that would scare the crap out of me, or is it automatic that you only use locking carabiners for harnesses?
@steventhaw37654 жыл бұрын
Very nice video, Girth hitch your foot.prusik. The carabiner attached to the belay device to the harness should have the rope at the basket and the belay loop at the crotch of the carabiner.
@OpticDelusion5 жыл бұрын
Just a quick note on the first system you presented. If your upper prusik fails and your footloop is wrapped around your foot, you may fall and hang upsidedown from your foot, given enough slack on the clove hitch. That would be a nasty fall and situation to get out of.
@keithklassen53205 жыл бұрын
So at 2:15... A nice way to ensure that your caribiner won't cross load like that is to secure it in one place, by either girthing or cloving the prussic cord onto the small end of it, which keeps it oriented the correct way.
@MrJbaker0205 жыл бұрын
EXCELLANT!! Thx
@freddief33503 жыл бұрын
Great video but a little mistake on the ratio hauling system. Redirecting the rope above on a carabiner makes it easier because it's easier to pull down than to lift the rope with your arm but it doesn't change the ratio which is still 2:1 A common mistake probably because it looks very much the same as the classic hauling system to rescue a person from a crevasse with 3:1 demultiplication...
@706d4 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@jfdesignsinc.innovationsid15834 жыл бұрын
Your awesome. ...nice demo,,,,, isn’t the somewhat neglected clove hitch backup kinda risky,,, it’s goin to break your body if used? Also the weight of the rope helps slide upwards doesn’t it
@_Szakal4 жыл бұрын
When you shown grigri example its obvious it works as bloker but you could also lower down if there is a need but if we take a look on reverso example its only works as bloker but its i possible to lower down. Am i right?
@rdrx42 жыл бұрын
very nice, good jod ilikes this channel n subcribe
@1Deejay75 жыл бұрын
How can i ascend super saiyan blue ?
@cynic2525 жыл бұрын
take the sling along the inside of the leg and it will stop the leg kicking out. Also link the leg sling to you and you have two pieces protecting you
@auraadventurerishikesh69085 жыл бұрын
very nice
@mluisalambert3 жыл бұрын
For the Garda - is there a way to set up if you've fallen in space without a way to step up to get slack?
@prajwalthapa83905 жыл бұрын
half way up if one is stuck ...can one rappel down?
@mikefarthing3 жыл бұрын
I was using that exact Garda Hitch method with the Micro Traxion recently and... Either the carabiner jammed the device from below, or, I was grabbing the Micro Traxion in a weird way, and its cam opened up. The device, apparently being partly open, with me attached, slid down the rope (while shredding it) for a few feet before hitting a catastrophe knot I had tied. Luckily I was able to get to a ledge to rappel down. Can anyone explain what they think may have happened on this rope ascension? Spooked me pretty bad.
@Tito_zako Жыл бұрын
would you use a tibloc instead of a micro traxion?
@The_Fit_ness_monster2 жыл бұрын
Would this stuff work well on my 11.7 mm hyper limb rope?
@krisskalalo75994 жыл бұрын
Please how to descend
@greentree3204 жыл бұрын
Perfect
@morotegari16 жыл бұрын
Thks
@stevenstevens990 Жыл бұрын
What mm cord for the top prusic knot anyone?
@firstlightguiding96353 жыл бұрын
Great summary of the different devices and configurations. That's a 2:1 mechanical advantage (with a change of direction) at 4:21 by the way. Not 3:1
@ricardocabeza60063 жыл бұрын
Yes! Thank you! Although, it kind of ruins her credibility in my mind.
@KevinGuanziroli6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video. I am looking at solution to ascend a rope for climbing pictures. It does leave me with some question: - Why no mentions of ascender ? Based on what I read, it's seems the most appropriate solution (and the added weight is "only" ~150g) - I always wondered if micro traction and such are gonna make my rope wear faster because of their teeth. And if you have any recommendation on how to ascend a rope quickly but securely enough so I can let all go and take pictures, it would be very welcome. Anyhow, thanks for all your education videos !
@benjatronic6 жыл бұрын
the grigri, reverso, and micro traxion are all devices that can be used as ascenders :) plus you're more likely to be climbing with something like a grigri or reverso. and the micro traxion might make your stuff wear faster, but it probably is dependent on a bunch of things like how hard you're yanking on the rope (how much it bites), the diameter of the rope, and whether or not it's when when you're using it in the device. or something like that....
@waydwalker36746 жыл бұрын
I take this video as instruction on how to climb a rope in a situation in which your intention starting out was not to climb the rope. In other words...how to use what you have with you in an emergency. If your intention starting out is to climb a rope there are definitely easier ways to do so. Copied and pasted from Petzl website...."Despite their aggressive appearance, the teeth on the BASIC or ASCENSION are not harmful to the rope in normal use." Same teeth as micro traction.
@wojciechwroblewski71216 жыл бұрын
I took a rope but forgot everything else scenario? ;)Maybe the minimalism here is to save weight (e.g. when you have to hike few km before reaching the climbing zone)? Still, as a beginner I prefer to use Hand, chest and foot ascender and a D4 for descent. I weighs a lot more but such set up is very forgiving and easier to use when you weigh more...
@SlamPvP5 жыл бұрын
if your going out solely to ascend a rope to take pictures you shouyld google, 'unicender by rock exotica'
@bonefishboards2 жыл бұрын
Good tutorial. However, and all of the climbing tutorials on KZfaq show instructors anchoring directly to the belay/rap loop of the harness. That loop is very solid, typically rated to 22kN (~5000 lbs). However, just some minor wear & tear can reduce the strength significantly, particularly when the wear is on the stitching. Add a $3 loop of 7mm cord in parallel and clip both as a bit of redundancy. Don't be Todd Skinner. And that rope clutch is a great thing to have in the climber's toolkit. Comes in handy just about anywhere for many applications.
@robokubkub5 жыл бұрын
Question: why does the prusik to stand up in have to be above the device when using a grigri Ort micro as waist attachment?
@JeffWurst5 жыл бұрын
Because if you stand on a lower attachment point then the GriGri will be locked off and won't move up. But no worries, its much better that way. Crossing the lip at the top is nasty if your foot attachment is below your harness attachment.
@rickytrockclimbing29355 жыл бұрын
I think the 3-1 system with grigri and prussik is my fave, whatever least damages rope
@ricardocabeza60063 жыл бұрын
It’s a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage...
@rickytrockclimbing29353 жыл бұрын
@@ricardocabeza6006 not the one I use xd
@ricardocabeza60063 жыл бұрын
@@rickytrockclimbing2935... What she demonstrates is a 2 to 1. She mistakenly calls it a 3 to 1.
@rickytrockclimbing29353 жыл бұрын
@@ricardocabeza6006 yes but I don't use that, I use a 3 - 1
@ricardocabeza60063 жыл бұрын
@@rickytrockclimbing2935... Nice. What’s your set up for that on a fixed line?
@kriskringus21915 жыл бұрын
How is the single rope set up? Every where I climb is double rope and I’m not sure how to apply this to it.
@jettcoleman56664 жыл бұрын
An ATC in guide mode works well for two strands.
@bigmutant692 жыл бұрын
Why isn't the rope directly attached through the two loops on your harness?
@stardamage55105 жыл бұрын
Be careful with the grigri setup at 2:30. If a ascending device above the grigri slips and slides down, it can hit the cam, hold it down, and release the grigri too.
@andrewenglishsc5 жыл бұрын
Good point. I'm thinking of a setup like this for ascending rope for climbing photography while using most of the gear I have. Except I would use an ascender with the sling for comfort and ease. I think she's backed up with a clove hitch but it seems like people frown upon that as well... is there a better way to back it up? Or a better tool than the Grigri for that particular setup?
@essbeard5 жыл бұрын
@@andrewenglishsc Tie a stopper knot below you as you ascend. If the gri gri doesn't lock, it will catch on the knot. An overhand knot works well.
@tommorgan66654 жыл бұрын
@@essbeard Like this...an "oh shit" knot. We don't mind what flavour :D
@_Szakal4 жыл бұрын
But she already has additional backup in carabiner down below. Isnt enough?
@tommorgan66654 жыл бұрын
@@_Szakal yeah she is you're right...I just watched it back. I guess it might be an idea to tie catastrophe knots every now and then as opposed to just backing up the end of the rope (also useful for hauling it back up quickly!)
@WHITELOTUS6065 жыл бұрын
This video was great! I used two of those Techniques on my trip to Bishop! For taking pictures. Was wondering if you can make a video where you can transition from ascending to descending. Let's say you don't want to go to the anchor and just switch to rappelling. Would that be possible?
@tommorgan66654 жыл бұрын
I know this isn't a video but thought I'd pop in with what I do. I typically would use an ATC to ascend on (the guide style one demonstrated here is the same as mine), then when I want to switch to descend put another piece of equipment (a simple prusik would do) to replace the ATC and act as my waist point. It's easier if you place this piece of gear above the ATC. Next, I'd step up on my leg and remove the ATC (you need to unweight it). Then use your ATC for descent as you would normally rapp. (Stow all the rest of your gear first or you'll make a mighty mess) For the reverse do the reverse.... stop rappelling....put a temp. prussik in to maintain your position then set the ATC back up to ascend. If you're super spoilt and don't care about weight this whole thing is easier with a chest ascender, a super long static rope set up double, an etrier and jammer and an industrial descender all backed up with an asap lock :D (that might make them some pricey pics!!)
@peteranelson4 жыл бұрын
@@tommorgan6665 @Reynaldo Lopez Easier still, use a grigri as your progress capture device and a prusik/hollow block/ascender (easiest option) on a foot sling to move upwards. When you want to stop ascending and rappel, simply remove the prusik and rappel using your grigri (or equivalent).
@denislejeune92186 жыл бұрын
Thanks for that. Question though (sorry if it's dumb): if I have to rope ascend at the crux with no possibility of lowering back off to ground (say a big overhang and void below), I will be roped up. So how do I move from being roped up to having a biner on my belay loop?
@JamieBenoir5 жыл бұрын
I don't understand how you would get in this situation. If you are rappelling, you wouldn't be roped up, you'd be on an ATC or something. If you are top roping, you would be able to lower, or get hauled up by your partner if they're top belaying. If you are lead climbing, you would not be able to ascend since the rope is below you.
@bruderbrot52684 жыл бұрын
It is a possible scenario when you are seconding, fall below a big overhang and the rope is stuck in a crack, so you can't get lowered or helped. I would suggest you ascend above the overhang and make a Butterfly Loop or Bowline on a Blight on the non loaded strand and attach it with a biner to your belay loop. You could replace the backup Clove Hitch from the video with it.
@shivl15 жыл бұрын
Easy way to tie the garda on the looking carabiner from harness
@brendanmullaney98485 жыл бұрын
Why does the foot loop need to be above the grigri? I've seen people use the grigri with a foot ascender and that's well below the waist. Is there a safety issue with this setup?
@solberg7625 жыл бұрын
The reason to why the foot loop has to be above the Grigri is because it makes moving up the rope when the device is cross loaded, near if not impossible to ascend since its main purpose is to a) brake or b) fully stop a fall by pinching the rope in which the climber is tied in to.