I couldn't agree more. I still shoot Easton XX75's and XX78's. All of the reasons you mentioned are spot on, but another reason for me is that I simply like the feel and look of anodized aluminum arrows. They are much smoother in texture, so when a wary buck is close, the sound of the shaft sliding across the rest is virtually silent with aluminum shafts. A big advantage in archery is silent shooting, and the heavier shafts will absorb more shock and vibration than one of those "soda straw" carbon shafts. Easton aluminum shafts are way more consistent in terms of weight, straightness, and spine. I have tried carbon arrows (Gold Tips), but went back to shooting Easton 2212's, 2213's, 2114's, and 2117 shafts out of my Mathews bows, and I don't see a good enough reason to get away from aluminum arrows. Good video, and nice shooting!

Thanks for sharing your experience, I am new at the archery path but I found all what you present completely solid and logic. Thanks again 🙏

For the sake of contribution. Using a heavy arrow to a bows actual draw weight makes the retracting limbs and the string of a bow much quieter. This is due to the greater mass of a heavy arrow taking more time to accelerate before leaving the bow and string. This allows for a more complete transfer of energy to the arrow. This efficient transfer of the stored energy from the bow limbs to the arrow leaves less unused energy. This unused energy must be dissipated through the bow string, limbs, riser and the hand of the archer, after the the arrow has started it's flight to the target. The most efficient and quiet bows are lighter (less mass) at the ends of the bow limbs. They also have less shock or vibration in the hand of the archer. The bows string also creates noise when an string and arrow are released. Recurve bows create noise when the string hits or slaps the recurved portion of the bow limbs. Bows with strait limbs do not allow the string to hit or slap the bow limbs, thus less noise at the time of string and arrow release. String silencers are often added to quiet a bow during release. String silencers increase the weight (mass) of the string. This is inefficient and wastes the stored energy of the bow. Instead, put the weight (mass) into the arrow. Heavy arrow positives = Less shock/vibration/sound and a smoother release as sensed by the archer (and the game animal). As said in the video, the heavy arrow will also exceed a light arrow in it's penetrating depth every time. These ballistic effects are do to the heavy arrow having greater mass and more kinetic energy. Heavy arrow negatives = The arrow will not achieve the same maximum distance as a light arrow. Heavy arrows are slower and will also have a more arched trajectory than a light arrows. Slower velocity = more time in flight. More time in flight = more time for gravity and wind to have effect on the arrow. Remember, the bow and it's arrow are not the tool for long range. That tool is called a rifle and it's bullet. Target arrows have less mass. Less mass = Higher velocity = less time in flight. Less time in flight = less time for gravity and the wind to have effect on the arrow. This makes winning a target shooting contest easier, but this lack of mass also means very little penetration. Hunting arrows should have greater mass. More mass = more penetration = more cutting = quicker kills. Do the research on a man named Edward Ashby. His research in hunting with archery equipment will teach you a great deal. It will free you from a lot of the marketing hype and B.S. that is out there about bow weight, arrow weight and broadheads. Do not be impressed by flashing adds and hype, it means nothing. Remember, a hunting bow, the arrow with it's broadhead achieves by penetration and cutting. Rifle bullets achieves by penetration and transfer energy to the target. This transfer is often called shock power, and it has a number of effects on the target. These to principals are not the same.

Very good video, as often. All that is said is very true about aluminium shafts. Previously, I used arrows "XX75 Autumn Orange hunter", the" old ones" on which we had to put Bohning Classic Nock (11/32 ") because of the tip. Now, I use my aluminium arrows mainly for stumping with friends. Has for carbon arrows, they still very expensive and loosing one is heartbreaking. Fleetwood did release some multilayered rolled-carbon shafts recently, however I did not test them so I don't know anything about the performance. The price is cheaper however. For the moment since the last 3 years, I'm using "Rose City Port Orford Cedar", because I like fully cresting all my arrows and I like the feeling of wood. It's only my personal choice and only concerns me. Nice day to all !

Great video and great points you brought up. Loved it

Thank you! Exactly the information I was looking for.

Agreed 100% on aluminum shafts. I don''t hunt but I am an archer.

Great explanation!! Well done!

Aluminum was all I shot for decades. These days I use some of my old 2219 aluminum arrows as speed loaders for my 22 caliber lever action rifles. I shoot carbon out of my compound, but I shoot wood out of my longbow. One of the main reasons that I still shoot traditional archery is because I love the historically accurate and traditional aspect of it. That pretty much lets out any modern materials for my arrows. That being said, I agree with most of your reasons for using them if that's what you want to do. You are absolutely right about aluminum being tough. I can't count the number of aluminum arrows that got bent back in the day that I just straightened out and kept using for years. No judgment here on my part my friends, everybody should shoot what makes them happy. Love your videos, and I love the countryside. Where exactly is that opening sequence filmed?

Excellent info.

I still like to use aluminum as well. I find them to be easier to tune than carbon shafts in addition to all the other mentioned benefits. I never thought of using them as a sharpening steel. That's a great idea!! I hope you have Jaime on some more. I enjoyed this video.

I’m a bit of a recent convert to aluminium shafts for my recurve. They seem to fly better and have better consistency than carbons. Not to mention that I can salvage them more than carbons. However, for my hybrid flatbow, I still gotta stick with carbons since they seem to flex better since my shelf isn’t cut past centre.

I’m going to have to try those eastons once I figure out what spine I would need. I have a 40# recurve but I only draw it to 30# at 24”. I’ve begun working on fletching my own after I’ve stripped a feather away during practice and I want to see if it really is easier 😊. Thanks for the video.

Great tips!

great knowledge share!

Nice one.

Great video Primo

Nice tips brother!

I've always used Easton aluminum arrows since I learn how to shoot a bow and hunted with them and to this day I love Easton aluminum arrows never had a problem with them

Great video sir 👍👍👍

Yep, aluminum easy to clean and heavy resistant to wind.But I do use carbon for my compound. There both good.

Thanks for sharing and I personally love bamboo arrows. About as tough as carbon

THANKS

I love wood, but you are right about aluminum. I used it over carbon for hunting through the years. Wood is so quiet that it’s hard to switch back. I have been thinking about it lately cause aluminum is easier to maintain and I’m thinking more about FOC lately.more ways to insert weight. Thanks

I paid a premium price for 6 carbon arrows, My target is mounted on a wooden backstop.. Within 2 weeks all 6 arrows were damaged, little hairline cracks and one broke completely... I buy a pack of aluminium arrows for 16 dollars almost 1/3 the price of the carbon and they outlive the carbon by a country mile.. Just like you mentioned, I hit the backstop a couple of times and bent the aluminium but simply just bent it back into shape and all is good... Id be afraid of firing a carbon or fiberglass arrow that had damage !!

Out of curiosity. What is the handle sticking up from near the quiver to?

I like the idea of using aluminum shafts, but I'm confused about the spine variations.

Yes sir. These are all the same reasons I shoot aluminum.

I like me aluminuns. Pissed me off when easton did away with the. "" superslam XX78"" back in the day after you spent a fortune finding that perfect brace hight. And perfect diameter and wall thickness. And front to center balance that perfect spine you din"t even need feathers. I know iv"e done it at 20 yards. And the good thing after found your size. You could call old bass pro and get a dozen cut to length and inserts installed of XX78 superslams for 83.50 to my door ready out of the box with four inch left helical feather fletched.

A honing tool for a knife?? Dude you lost me there!! 😆 😆 😆

to many of us its cost. in australia 12 wood shafts are $40 cheapest i have found then you got to prep wood, stain ect ect, aluminium is $14 more for 12, with nocks and inserts. carbon is $40 or more for 12 cheapest decent brand name. my choice if money didn't count is carbon hands down...but dollars talk when most of us are hard up for money. this debate on what is best is like comparing cars. personal choice. you can get heavy carbon too.... its all about money in the end. not much else counts except for personal preference. now you guys in the usa get stuff so much cheaper than us. nothing is cheap in australia. fence wire can sharpen a knife dont need an arrow. but it is a good tip.

just a quick note you cant hone a high carbon knife with a soft aluminum tube.the honing tool need to be harder

Wood you can absolutely refletch. Carbon not so much.

Aluminums are way better, straighter, heavier GPI, more consistency for weight and straightness. Carbons are ok but I prefer aluminums all Day long. They’ve been around since the 1930s

Aluminum won't work for a knife steel ever, and ya can damage an aluminum with fletching removal too, I've shot aluminum carbon and wood they all work great but I shoot carbon it's more personal preference or to save cash over anything now