Did you buy one of these? waterestore.ca/products/kx-matrikx-cto-20-bb-carbon-filter-32-450-20-matrikx maybe you have chloramines in your water not chlorine and then you would need this waterestore.ca/products/kx-matrikx-chloraguard-20-carbon-block-filter-32-450-20-matrikx

For a whole house application you are better off with the larger size, 4.5" because they give you more capacity. To remove sediment I would suggest this filter houding waterestore.com/products/viqua-10-bb-filter-housing-awp40b-v-free-ship with this filter waterestore.com/products/pentek-filter-10-bb-dgd-5005-50-5-m-dual-gradient-155357-43 and you rae correct that it is a dual gradient filter

No, you likely need a sulphur filter. Is the smell in both the hot and cold water?

@@GarytheWaterGuy there’s no sulphur in the water. It’s distilled water. The smell has now gone. It’s always when I first install it

if sediment or dirt is clogging these filters I would add a 5 micron sediment filter before the carbon filters. Carbon filters clog very easily from sediment.

Ironic! Matrix is made in India, ICEPURE is a Chinese product, even the brand is Chinese

I would use this filter waterestore.com/products/kx-matrikx-chloraguard-10-big-blue-carbon-block-filter-36-450-10-matrikx

I really don’t know, usually is the water symptoms come back, you need to replace the media because it is worn out.

Sorry, I’m not familiar with that system

@@GarytheWaterGuy I actually figured it out thanks for reply

Good question, the easiet way would be to put a shut off like this in the water line waterestore.ca/products/john-guest-3-8-inline-ball-valve-part-ppsv041212w and open and close it until you get the correct flow rate. After 30,000 gallons it drops right off.

@@GarytheWaterGuy that is a good idea, especially since there will be one or two in the line for service anyway.

Good question! Typically about 10 years so no problem.

@@GarytheWaterGuy thanks 😊

@@GarytheWaterGuy Hi Gary, I just replaced the KX carbon block (USA) with the new Matrikx CTO plus in my filtration system, I m surprised to see that the new CTO plus can't remove the chlorine as good as the 18 mths old KX carbon block. I've already flushed for over 30 mins after the CTO plus was installed. When I test the filtered water with a chlorine tester, it will turn to yellow colour. Once I put back the old KX carbon block back to the filtration system, it backs to normal ,the filtered water won't change to yellowish when I tested .. Any clue ? and I realized the CTO plus is not manufactured in USA but India

Not that I know of.

It is 9 7/8" long. we have them here waterestore.ca/products/kx-matrikx-lead-cyst-06-250-10-green

Sorry, I don't know of one.

I would recommend a reverse osmosis drinking water system like this one waterestore.com/products/hum-water-saver-reverse-osmosis-system-75-gallons-per-day

You will need a sulphur filter like this FOC waterestore.ca/products/hum-foc-sulphur-water-filter-one-cubic-foot?_pos=577&_sid=590f5278b&_ss=r

Catalytic carbon is used in one of these waterestore.ca/products/hum-auto-back-washable-chloramine-removal-filter-1-0

The microns on a carbon filter aren't as important as on a sediment filter.

Sorry I do not know.

Reverse Osmosis is needed to remove fluoride. This one works well for one tap waterestore.ca/products/hum-water-saver-reverse-osmosis-system-75-gallons-per-day The rest can be removed can be removed in the whole house with this waterestore.ca/products/hum-auto-back-washable-chloramine-removal-filter-1-0

Sure you can use this one. waterestore.com/products/kx-matrikx-cto-20-bb-carbon-filter-32-425-125-green?variant=20250036732004 How long it lasts depends on what's in your water and how much water you use. The specifications on that filter are here cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0171/4778/9412/files/CTO.pdf?v=1680884936

@GarytheWaterGuy excellent thank you so much! Is there any reason I should go with the 1 micron over the 5 micron?

Not sure. I have never used them.

No there is no expiry date.

@@GarytheWaterGuy thanks

I really don’t know. Have you tried contacting a local lab to see if they test for those parameters?

Great question. If you need to remove dirt, the sediment filter is better. If you need to remove chemicals like chlorine, herbicides or pesticides carbon is better. If you need to remove both you need both.

What's the difference between carbon filter and charcoal filter?

@@joycealmero4872 I see your post is old. This info might not help you. There are a few different types of activated carbon filters. There is a granular carbon filter and then there are carbon blocks. He was showing carbon blocks in this video. Carbon blocks filter finer. Since the carbon is finer in a block, it has more surface area. Granular carbon is slightly loose tiny granules of carbon. You would have to look up what each type of contamination each type of media excels at removing from water. The benefit of a granular activated filter is that it will not be so restrictive to water flow which is better if you have low water pressure. There is a different kind of carbon filter that not a lot of people know about. It is called bone char. I believe bone char only comes in a granular filter, and it is not vegan friendly. Anyway, this material removes some different compounds that the other type of carbon filter cannot remove (bone char is way better at removing fluoride, radioactive materials, and metals like chromium). You would want to use an activated carbon filter after a bone char filter to improve the taste. They also make some different carbon filters that have a material called KDF. KDF helps inhibit bacterial growth in a carbon filter. KDF also helps eliminate certsin types of metal contamination. If you had a system with a couple carbon filters, you would only want KDF in the very last filter. I hope that information helps. I am currently building my own under sink filter sysytem. I bought 5 Pentek 10" slimline filters. Those take standard 10" x 2.5" filters. I connected those in series with adapters I bought from a hardware store. The first two filters I have are sedimet filters, and I bought clear housings for those so I can tell when they need to be changed by a visual inspection. My house has fairly high water pressure, and I will need the two sediment filters to really slow it down. I will follow that up with a bone char filter, a modest carbon block, and grabular carbon with KDF at the end. My two sediment filters will be installed indepently from the rest of the system. If you wanted to do something like this, you do not need a pressure relief valve for each filter housing which makes the set-up a lot cheaper. The advantage of building your own system is that you can filter out what you want or need to fikter out of your water. I would just search what KDF, activated carbon (both blocks and granular), bone char filter, and the different pore sizes of mechanical filtration remove from water. You can make or buy whatever best fits your needs.