We’ll show you one of 5 ways to wind up extension cords. Many people use cord reels or storage devices. How good are they and will they work well for you?
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This is one in a series of episodes showing different methods of winding up and/or using extension cords. In this series, we will show the daisy chain, over-and-under, figure 8, cord reel, and cord bucket approaches.
This episode features cord-winding storage devices, as well as reels with integrated cords and outlets, as well as simple reels that you supply with your cord.
No matter what method you use to wind up your cord, always get the BEST extension cord you can afford. The cheaper the cord, the stiffer it will be, especially in cold weather.
Extension cords come packaged in a coil (much like a garden hose) or looped into an oblong shape with a sleeve around the middle. First, unwind the cord and stretch it out somewhere in the sun. It can be on the lawn, sidewalk, or driveway. Leave it out for about an hour to get the cord warm so it can “relax” and lose any memory it acquired during the time it was packaged. If it’s winter when you get your cord, place the cord somewhere warm until the cord is supple. Now you wind up the cord using the method you prefer.
Portable cord reels come in two basic versions - empty reels that you supply your cordage, or integrated reels with cordage supplied and typically a set of outlets. Although similar to mounted reels seen in shop settings, these are meant to be carried to and used at the job site. Remember this cardinal rule: you can not draw more power combined, from all the outlets, than the cord or outlet it is plugged into can supply.
If there is an integrated breaker in your cord reel, too much power draw will “pop” the breaker. If there is no breaker, you risk heating the cord, melting terminals, or possibly starting a fire. So, be careful.
Besides a breaker/reset, another worthwhile feature to look for is a self-retracting reel. This makes it easier to wind up the cord when the job is done.
Lastly, if you are buying a unit that has its own cord, get the best quality and highest capacity (at least 14 gauge!) you can afford. Cheaping out here is not wise.
If you want something even more economical, there are a variety of plastic cord wrap devices or wheel-like products. You get what you pay for. Plastic has a limited life, especially if it is in the sunshine regularly. However, these are quick and inexpensive, and easily replaced, so you need to decide what you need and the economics of your choice.
There is an active discussion (argument?) about whether or not you can run power through an extension cord that is coiled. Yes, you can. You just need to be sure you are using only about 80% of the capacity of the cordage. This is seen with the ratings that are labeled on cord reels. Power is routinely run through coiled conductors, but because they are coiled and can cause increased resistance (and related heat), they rate the capacity of the cable lower than an uncoiled cord.
Whatever method you use, taking the time to coil up and stow your gear at the end of the job pays off in having gear that will last a long time, and will allow you to set up faster on the job, as well out pack out sooner and be on your way.
While you’re at it, check out these OTHER methods that trade professionals use too:
View the "Over and Under" Method Here:
• Best Way for Tangle Fr...
View the "Daisy Chain" Method Here:
• Tangle Free Extension ...
View the "Cord Reel" Method Here:
• Are Cord Reels for Win...
View the "Figure 8" Method Here:
• The Figure 8 Method fo...
View the "Over and Under" Method Here:
• Best Way for Tangle Fr...
View the "Daisy Chain" Method Here:
• Tangle Free Extension ...
View the "Cord Bucket" Method Here:
COMING SOON!
View the "Figure 8" Method Here:
• The Figure 8 Method fo...
View the "Cord Bucket" Method Here: COMING SOON
JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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