We're always on the hunt!

What kind of stone thank you

Edge trailing is not good to clean burr, a microburr will remain no matter how many passes you do. Edge leading like he did really helps. You also need to pay attention to pressure. Thick burr usually requires about 200g of force to remove but this level of force will create microburr on low grit stones. To remove microburr use negative pressure, less than weight of the knife, just enough to make contact. This way with edge leading you can cut paper towel just with low grit stones like 120 or 300 grit. Strops are fine but beware 10 passes on a diamond loaded strop is enough to create foil bur. They work better if you do only a couple passes

@@thiago.assumpcao Yup, you summed up many good techniques well. I have the most trouble with the microburr on fine stones/slower cutting stones in the curved area of the knife. Been practicing that lately. On some knives it's easier to get a more stable fine edge than others. Feels tough on the more finely grained stuff. Coarse stones I usually get a very stable clean edge. Not a fan of strops myself, at least leather ones, loaded or not. They have their place for some techniques though.

@@WormyLeWorm On the curved region you can have problems with angle stability. If you raise the angle a bit when you are creating the edge latter it will be a hassle to clean the burr. Sharpening with a microbevel will help with that. Usually I sharpen with 10 degree edge and finish with a a few alternating edge leading strokes on 15 degrees. Even soft steel like 56 HRC can hold this edge and it will cut much better than a thick 15 degree bevel. As a bonus it's also easier to clean the burr.

@@thiago.assumpcao Sharpie showed that I was being pretty consistent, so I was wondering if pressure might be a factor in my case as well. From what I can tell, from however accurate a scale can be for this, I tend to use 50 grams or lower of pressure when at this stage and when i lift the knife and therefore have less of the knife's weight behind it, it's often 20 grams or less. I've been experimenting with just that technique you mentioned as well, since it seems like insurance. I seem to sharpen around 12-13 degrees naturally and then I raised it a bit and did a couple strokes at the very end. Will see how my edge from earlier today holds up soon. A fine edge on my higher carbide stuff holds up well, but on things like my white #2 knives it's tough to get that area as well as I get the heel, when going finer, it seems like. Maybe just easier to recreate a microburr on these steels. Also been thinking about picking up a microscope to really see what's going on with my edges since the naked eye and really bright lights can only see so far.

@@WormyLeWorm High hardness knives usually are easier to clean burr than soft knives. Didn't notice a difference with carbide content but is possible. If you sharpen with a lot of pressure a sudden drop to 50 grams may not be enough to clean burr with just a couple passes. If you still have trouble it's worth a shot trying the 10/15 method and do some extra passes on 15 degree. You can also try to go even lower with the sharpening angle like Full Flat V Zero and finish with a 20 degree microbevel. Microscope is fun. For burr detection it didn't help me but very helpful analysing stones, many surprising findings. I have some videos with stone microscopy but they are on Portuguese.

Thank you!

Yes! Absolutely you can!

Haruyuki Shinogi! knifewear.com/pages/search-results?q=haruyuki%20shinogi

Whetstone and leather strop! The jacket should work fine, but the stone needs to contain abrasive, which most naturally occuring stones don't.

Lmaooo I’m dead… please pin this

What kind of steel?

Absolutely, we do all the time!

I often use chromium oxide!

You don't need to; if the goal is just deburring, then you don't need anything just a material (leather, linen, denim, card, MDF), and take a dozen passes each side. It should deburr perfectly fine. If your goal is polishing, or further sharpening, then you can use compound. If you are stropping to maintain edges, you will want compound. For deburring after sharpening, completely not needed.

I use chromium oxide, it's great stuff!

Hey, steel is great for softer steel knives, but isn't hard enough to home super hard Japanese steel unfortunately. The coarser rods can also be hard on fine edges, so we prefer ceramic!

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@@KnifewearKnives okay

Absolutely 😂😂😂