I had to do it

MMMmmmMMmmmm...

awwww beat me to it lol

Don't worry bro. No one is good at the game.

when i was toying around with crams i found ludicrously powerful HE beat out anything in terms of pure block shredding do you mean kinetic aps/missile?

gaming kinetic remote guided, large missiles are the best. They knock huge chunks out of just about anything and being remote guided, they are hard to jam. Plus with three or more reinforced body segments, they take a lot to destroy. Seriously op as hell.

It sorta depends where the hole is in the armor, I find that cross-hatching the spall liner itself is good at at least offering a slight ablative protection that keeps the hole small. Applique panels are also really good for protecting against spall.

@@BetaDude40 I was more referring to the second layer of armor with many more and a spall liner behind it but sure.

Hit points are only the beginning. XD

@@BorderWise12 You don't make canoes anymore, remember? Now you make camoos.

@@SephirothRyu c a m o o

@@SephirothRyu lol

You're welcome! 😁

Thank you! :D

Relatively small games tend to have relatively small channels

It's ok to do that with slopes. Just not with the majority beams of your craft. XD

Thank you, I'll see if I can fix that. 👍

If it's ONLY high-powered kinetic shells coming at you, then yes the distinction is moot. Thing is, it's never just that. High powered HE is very common in the late game on higher difficulties, usually in the form of large missiles and torpedoes. For that kind of damage, every extra bit of armour counts.

Already possible and not terribly difficult with anti-munition cannon controllers, spinblocks and pistons. Quite effective though it usually relies on repairs to keep the slapper in the fight.

What's a turtle back armor scheme?

@@Ms360box basically, above the internals of your ship (aka the citadel) you have sloped armor. it usually starts a bit below the water line. It takes a lot of space and if you have anything important above it it gets shredded, but it does its job. What it does is, every kinetic shell/fragment that pen the side armor, hit the internal sloped armor and have a good chance to bounce off it and exit through the main deck

@@guvyygvuhh298 ooo neat I like it

Thank again! 👍

Still a decent chance for collision/thump damage to pass through to the spinblock, or a pen-depth shell to remove a whole chunk of armour at once. As I said, it's a move with definite pros and cons.

@@BorderWise12 but if the vulnerable bits are made from heavy armor then there is a low chance of that happening.

@@superminer1993 The spinlock itself will always be vulnerable. It's a weak point of the whole arrangement no matter what.

I often do that, but not all the time.

Not exactly: it has a higher chance of detonating on surfaces with high AC when striking at flat angles. It's still highly likely to ricochet if the angle is shallow.

I tested it recently against 4m slopes and not a single shot bounced

@@danielpopov2903 ... well, I'll be damned. Inertial Fuses are almost completely useless then. XD

Strongest armour always on the outside, more armour gain overall.

I will be doing a video on that subject, yes. Just might not be the next one.

@@BorderWise12 ok

my advice for missile defence is large (or huge) decoys and small missile interceptors. It's also a good idea to build the missile defence system on a testing fortress and testing before putting it on a ship.

Use low-ish caliber, probably 100mm or less, rapid-fire but preferably without belt-fed loaders due to the down time, use timed fuses and flak or high explosive, or even frag, play with a number of air burst warhead types to find which one works best for you. Fairly fast projectiles are also desirable. For large missiles scale up the gauge substantially, but try to keep a similar consistent and fairly rapid rate of fire with reasonably fast-moving projectiles. For huge missiles, don't bother. Just use the time it takes them to reach your vehicle to either get your affairs in order or pull that eject lever.

@@Argonwolfproject I have an ap build 40mm 1700rpm for anti missiles. It’s just that flak or he burst doesn’t do enough damage compared to super fast ap

@@alexcanplaygames5270 Well then go with that if it works better. 1700rpm at 40mm should be fine for small and medium missiles, depending on shell length.

It doesn't make a huge difference, really: there's an equal amount of points of contact between the blocks anyway. My issue with cross hatching is that yes, it does have slight benefits like what you mention, but there are so many other aspects of armoring that are far more important. Furthermore, the benefits of crosshatching aren't really worth the time spent building that way as far as I'm concerned.

@@BorderWise12 Alright, thanks for the advice.

@@jadekaiser7840 Yer welcome. 😁

Sure! Here ya go: steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2369540782

Kinetic weapons only hit one block at a time in a straight penetrating line anyway. Having more blocks exposed to them width-ways is useless, since armour-stacking only works in the exact direct line the munition is coming from. At least, I think that's what you're arguing. I can barely tell with how you've written it.

@@BorderWise12 Basically Weaving armor blocks (Horizonal then vert behind or vice versa) as shown in your video leaves 1 single block hole. Not doing so left a bigger hole in your video 3 tobe exact. I am arguing that even though the Armor blocks no longer have any bonus from armor stacking that they are still greater than an empty hole, because they do have base hp and armor stats on their own and empty space doesnt. Yes, they will be destroyed faster after the first shot, but they still take away from the projectiles str going into your ship, thus making you survive 1 or 2 shots longer. Armor Weaving also has an added benifit vrs heat and hesh shells, due to the order in which they are destoryed, because they make their own air gaps after falling away as well.

​@@fallenshaw5659 As I said in the video, a smaller, deeper hole is more dangerous than a broad shallow one. Cross-hatching tends to result in the former. It is better to have a 2x4m shallow cut in your craft catching fire rather than the 4x4 gash under the skin that cross-hatching results in. The extra effort of cross-hatching is not worth it for what you gain and lose. Cross-hatching means your whole armor scheme falls apart in prolonged combat more easily. It's slightly more effective against HE damage in when intact, slightly worse against kinetic damage and much worse against thump because of how blocks are left isolated in the structure. There is absolutely no benefit that cross-hatching gives against HEAT and HESH. When intact, they'll penetrate it like any other solid mass of blocks. If damaged past 2 layers, the air gaps that are created are too narrow to form an effective barrier. They're HEAT streams can easily miss them by inches and they just act as spalling traps against HESH that rip through your deeper armor layers even faster. Even if the damage-gaps did help, what use is an armor scheme that only starts being useful against some of the more dangerous forms of damage in the game when it's already been damaged by something else? Basically: you haven't tested this, have you? Because I have. I tested it when making this video, and I tested it before when I made my older armor tutorials. I had people arguing in favor of cross-hatching then too, and they were just as misinformed.

Top right corner below the 4 buttons

What Jonathan said. 👍 I was actually meaning to edit the video to zoom in on those numbers, but I forgot to do that. 😅

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Use wood slope facing in, with inner wall made of stronk material (have hi armor point). Wood generate lower spall damage than metal, and it do a hell less of a damage to inner wall.

Since there are such a big variety in the angels of incomming shels i would recommend something like that. To mutch complexety for questional benefit.

Pure turtleback is questionable, since having an internal citadel is invaluable for HEAT/HESH defense. But more and more I'm realizing that a reinforced deck over your most important bits is a very good move.

I see, thank you for your input

@@BorderWise12 could just put up 2 layers of shield for the top deck. cheaper and works just as meh.

Angled HA, strong shield projectors and prayers to the RNG Draba god. 🙏