Thank you and welcome to the hobby! It really is a great community. So much knowledge and information out nowadays. I am 46 now and every time I run my RCs I still feel like I'm 12 with my first RC-10. Age is just a number my friend!!

You know the deal Bigdogg!! haha Thanks for checking out the video. Things are finally thawing up north, time to bust 'em out soon!

Excellent! Glad it helped you. Definitely a pretty straight forward swap that adds strength and options. Always good things.

Very true. I have left it alone thus far as the diameter only changed approx 1-2mm and I usually only run 2S in it. However, I am always monitoring the electronics for heat.

Good to hear! Sounds like you'll have a good day when it all arrives. Keep us posted on how everything goes!

@@thanumgaming I got it all now I will install it all this weekend

@@vladimirlopez7840 Excellent! Sounds like you've got a good weekend ahead.

Hey nice vid look cool, is there any side to side play at all with thi converstion.

Indeed!

It saves the gears, a sheared pin is alot cheaper than a new diff set

Thank you! They are some nice treads for sure. I just painted up a Pro-Line C10 body with a full blue fade into a checkered flag. Added some blue highlights on the rims to complete the look. Posted a few pics on my Instagram if ya do that type of thing. #thanumgaming

Have you had a chance to run your new truck yet? How is it? Indeed, the hubs are a easy and cheap upgrade.

Congrats on your new rig! It's a solid upgrade for sure. I just got the parts to do a total steering overhaul in the Senton as well. Be sure to keep an eye out for that video in the next week or two. Thanks for stoppin by!

Thank you! Yeah they are a bit soft for sure and seam to shred a bit easier then normal. Which is too bad because they have a good tread on them. I don't have a video of it running on them but maybe I'll charge up a pack quick and go hit a parking lot for some footage. Thanks again for checking out the vid and channel. Glad it was helpful.

you all probably dont give a shit but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I would love any help you can give me.

@Ernesto Lane Instablaster =)

@Zev Braylon thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

@Zev Braylon it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thank you so much you saved my ass!

They are a great and simple upgrade.

Interesting. I have not experienced that yet myself, however I only have 4-5 packs through it since the mod. It's apart on my bench now and they are still tight, but I will most definitely keep an eye on those in the future. Thanks for the heads up and checking out the video!

Seems like it needs a center nut... like the other kits have....

I got mine from the local hobby shop close to me. They're part number Traxxas 5353X. The X suffix designates the blue color. Looks like they're currently available on Traxxas as well as a few other websites.

The whole assembly feels tight, there is slight slight play though. However, there is always a small amount of play in all of these cars. Have you received your new parts and tried them on yet?

@@thanumgaming yep. Have to try it out.

@@thanumgaming mine after few laps (without tire glue threadlocker), the wheel got whobble because there is a gap to play. Is there any solution? Or axle nut 4mm maybe to fill the gap ?

Seriously? That's crazy! Did you buy it from a local hobby shop or from Horizon? Pretty sure Horizon warranties the Arrma stuff still. Take a picture of your receipt and a pic of the tire and description and they will more then likely send you a replacement free of charge. I had an issue with the motor in mine about 6 months after purchase, contacted them, and had a new motor in my hands within a week.

Same mine blew out the night I bought it. Now it’s been a few more days and the motor is burnt out as well. I Should be able to get it warrantied though like I did for the tires. They sent me two more replacements for my blowout. Loving it tho!

My stock motor died on mine as well. Definitely hit them up about that. It seams to be a somewhat common problem for whatever reason. The only way they'll fix it is if we keep calling them out on it. Glad you're digging the truck though other then those issues.

If you are referring to the wiggle at the hub itself, I'd say yes. It does help take out any small play at the hub itself. However, keep in mind there is always some play in these vehicles in general. Especially in the steering and when the suspension flexes it can make things wiggle a bit as well. No way to fully get rid of all of it really, short of machining every part out of steel/alloy with bearings and super tight tolerances. Like full size autos. Kind of the nature of the beast with these little guys.

I did notice a bit, however these always have some slop in the front end in general. Especially after a couple seasons of bashing. On yours, do you mean "wobble / diameter" slop, "in/out axle stub movement" slop? For the later, maybe some small very thin washers in there to take up the space?

@@thanumgamingAppreciate you taking the time to reply back! What I think I'm going to do is machine some aluminum rod, thread the middles so i can screw them on the axles and slide the hexes over them to fill that space then no slop or wobble. But you are right on all the slop all over the truck lol

So the way it works in full size cars is, when you go up in tire size only, it'll increase your top end but slowly kill your "off the line". That's when you gear accordingly to make up for the tire size difference. Like I remember when I used to run mud trucks, for up to 33" or so tires, you'd usually want a 3:73 - 4:10/1 33"-36" was usually 4:102 and then above 35" tires was 4:56 or above. Of course multiple other factors like, power band of the engine, intended running surfaces and conditions, etc. ... but yes a larger wheel will increase your top speed and slowly kill off the line. That can also generate more heat in the motor since it's working harder (undergeared) at take off, and running max RPM and high end). So as always, finger test the motor every so often. If you can't keep your finger on it for more then 3-5 seconds without getting burned it's getting too hot. You can't go wrong with the 12mm wheel options out there as well. I just went 17mm for the extra overall strength.

@@thanumgaming Thanks for the info! I'm not good with math, so apparently I'll have to learn an equation or two. :) I had not considered that the 17mm would be an inherently stronger tire for the added mass of the material. In my case, I'm with the star wars R2 -D2 builders club, so have a very specialized angle on the RC hobby. One of the guys in the club realized the Senton was perfect for one of the minor droids from the movies. So rather than an RC truck shell that weighs no more than an ounce or so, we are strapping 3-5lb plastic totes to the chassis. I went with the 6S stats for the added power with a 14tooth pinion on the 2050kv motor run by the blx185 esc. The stock pinoin is 20tooth on the 6S (iirc) so am thinking by going down on tooth count for torque, I reckon to use smaller wheels to increase the speed (down the road when I get to that upgrade and see how it performs as is). I've barely run the thing with all the converting I've been doing, but the one or two test runs have been exhilerating to see this thing move. I just can't believe the modern technology compared to when I was a kid in the '70's. Mind-blowing stuff!

@@GearsMcTinkersome Once you get it, charge a battery and test it before changing gears. You will be surprised just how much power and torque that has out of the box. That sounds awesome though as far as the project you intend to use it in. I've been a SW fan ever since seeing the first one in the theaters.

@@GearsMcTinkersome Just subscribed to your channel and see you've been busy at work on things! Awesome!

@@thanumgaming I couldn't use hte stock pinioin as the bore diameter didn't match the new 2050kv motor 1 mod to 0.8 mod. :( But I'll be messing around with different pinons over time to see how many teeth are practical under what circumstances.

Hey Luke, not that I know of, however I have only done the mod with the Traxxas parts. Funny you comment as I am about to film and upload a "2 years later" update on the mod. Hang tight a few days for that before deciding if you want to do it or not. It still works and hasn't broke, but there is some wear and tear. Which I'll show in the video.

@@thanumgamingThanks for the update, I look forward to the video.

Thank you. I took it out running this past weekend and they did balloon a little bit but no where near as badly as the stock ones did. Last time I was out, one of the stock ones blew partially off the rim and ripped. Part of why I ended up doing this upgrade sooner then later. These Duratrax tires are much stiffer and stronger I feel. They are originally for a 6s Senton, so that definitely helps. Can't even imagine one of these trucks on 6s. 3s is more then a handful. Do you run a Senton as well?

@@thanumgaming yes my wife bought me a v3 blx but unfortunately i have to wait for Christmas. I've been doing alot of research on it and i love this truck and i already spent way too much on a Slash 2wd. My friend has a new Slash 4wd and its an animal but stock tires also balloon alot so he will be doing your upgrade as well. Thank you for posting the video, not too much as far as upgrades for the senton out there, loved the video.

@@josephnubile1970 Excellent! Congrats on getting the new truck (soon). Thanks for the kind words as well. I will try to do vids like this here and there as I do small projects on the vehicles. Thanks again and have fun out there!

Nope, no modifications to the frame / chassis needed at all. At least with this set of wheels. If you tried running monster truck tires they would probably hit stuff. No videos of it running at the moment. It's winter time here with snow so can't do that right now unfortunately. Thanks for checking out the video!

@@thanumgaming thanks for the info

They are held in place by a threaded pin that holds the hub onto the axle shaft itself. Thus far it has held up and the screws have not backed out. I'm about to do a full steering upgrade on this truck as well to help tighten up the front end. Keep an eye out for the video in the next week or so.

Yeah the front ends do get lose.

I would think they are equally good on the street. I don't have any road tires with 17mm hubs currently though, so can not speak from first hand experience.

Yes they do. The entire kit contains, 4 hubs, 4 hex nuts, and 4 of the set screws/ pins.

Thanks 🙏🏼

There is no wobble on mine at all. Other then the slight play that is always inherent in these vehicles. Is the wobble radiating from the wheel and the hub itself? Is the rim fully seated onto the hub hex? Or is it just wobble in the front end in general? Which might point to worn steering link ends and whatnot.

Hello new friend, I am glad you enjoyed the video! I hope all is well with you.

More options for tires and wheels.