Thank you so much Keith that's my bedtime reading sorted out as it's too dark now to compare prints anyway! I appreciate your prompt response. I've also Marrutt for their ICC printer profile as I can't afford too many proofs using the Canon paper at £150 for 25 sheets. If I get used to the printer and software using the cheaper Marrutt I will then hopefully need less time colour correcting with Canon paper as I know from your video each paper has its different ICC profiles 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

Good clarity Keith, I doubt inexprienced people realise what a minefield accurate colour repro can be if one or two building blocks in the process fail in the desire for quality repro. Some paths can't be shortened, knowledge, experience, realistic aims, investment of time & money, patience and deep breathing because the sh-t will always hit the fan. You will fail & recover, learn where to ask advice in the twilight zone of caring about quality. A damp cloth, a pair of marigolds and a sense of humour and Bob's your uncle.

Great Presentation & Info (:

Thanks as always. I have many prints, slides, and negatives going back to the '70s that I'd like to digitize (as well as some paintings--mostly acrylic--and other 2D and 3D work as well). I have a P900 so I'm all set at that end of the process for the images I wish to print, but my concern is if my 2010-vintage Epson Perfection V33 scanner is up to the task (it can do 4800 DPI but are there other requirements?) at the other end of the process. I'm hoping that my Lumix G9 can sufficiently record images of the physical work, as my wife wouldn't be too keen on my purchasing a Hasselblad kit (donate the money!)...

Hello Keith, thank you very much for once again a great video. Forgive my ignorance but I'm quite new at this. I got a v850 in the end (I shoot medium format film and my partner is the visual artist) and I did create a profile for it with the X1 software that came with it. I am a bit confused, at what point should I apply the calibration profile? At the moment I am using Silverfast. Should I put the profile directly in silverfast's preferences or should I assign it in photoshop? I have an Epson p900 and I use a paper for which I have a profile (Either Espon VFA, Hahnemuhle Bamboo or Awagami bamboo). So in theory I should be able to take a calibrated scan, see it on my uncalibrated (for now) display and without touching the colours at all, could I assume that the print colours would be close to that of the original? I have done the test and I am quite far off, especially the 'calibrated' scan (I applied the profile directly through Silverfast) It's really dull. I printed a few and so far, the one that is the closest (yet a bit more vivid than the original) is the 'uncalibrated' scan (the normal SfprofT v800 profile applied by Silverfast). Am I doing something wrong?

Keith, its a mazing, any questions i ever have, I just go here and there you are, with most of the answers ! Now I was wondering if you have any experience with the Plustek A320e scanner, the only affordable A3 scanner that I have found (compared to the Epson counterpart). Its for scanning watercolors and oil paintings, combined with either vuescan or silverlight. I see hardly any reviews of it online, yet it seems fairly popular.

Thank you that was very helpful. I photograph water colour prints for an amazing artist and the printing is done through a printing shop. However it’s a struggle to get those delicate light tones just right. Also I’m not sure how to resize a digital file to be printed at a large size eg 700mm x 500mm

Great information. Would a Leica Monochrom like the latest M10M be a viable camera to reproduce black and white art work? I have used the pro Nikons one the past but never the M series which I use for street photography. TY

Keith I am an artist (with a science background) I auctioned off an oil portrait of Volodymyr Zelensky to raise funds for Ukraine, but decided to offer prints as well to maximise the donation. My husband sat through lots of your videos (🙏🏻) plumbed for Canon Pro300, bought their eye watering expensive fine art smooth paper, downloaded the PPL software and I just get an error message #10006 saying paper not loaded in manual tray, but it is. Tried top feed, same message. Looked up error code on Canons site and it suggests cleaning the rollers, it's brand new! Btw I'm printing from an Apple Mac. So because I wanted to get these prints out I decided after consuming a big gin (only joking) that I will attempt to print from my iPad. It printed fine but the resulting print looked like he had been tangoed, much darker and orange coloured than the original photo of the painting. So I've sat watching more videos and nothing works. I have ended up using the basic edit functions in photos on my iPad, printing out a proof, going back in, editing again which of course is making the original photo appear nothing like the original photo and of course because I'm using the recommended paper for the printer, all these proofs are going to cost me a fortune. So any help on why the printer is registering as no paper in manual feed when trying to print from the Mac and also is there any way to get the print to look exactly like an original photo of the painting. At the moment it's a case of all the gear but no idea! Thanks 🙏🏻 any help will benefit the poor people of Ukraine if I can quickly get these prints sorted

Thanks Keith right ok we have a print! It's not quite the same tonal range as the original photo can you link a video you may have covered that allows you to narrow the change between original photo and your print. I've watched the video on reproducing your artwork.

Hi Keith, great video! Thank your for sharing 😊 I’m wanting to start selling prints of my artwork and have bout all the equipment needed..dslr camera, lights, colour checker passport etc. I paint in oils with palette knife and lots of texture and am trying to figure out how to light it. I have watched a lot of tutorials and no one mentions textured paintings and just says to light the artwork evenly…but that doesn’t show the texture. I’m just wondering if you have any tips on how I would go about lighting my work? Thank you. Polly

Hi Keith, I have a canon pro 300 (I haven’t used it in a while so need to check it’s ok), but the reason I haven’t used it is because I struggle to print art work straight from photoshop. Although the image is centred in the program it doesn’t not print that way, and when printed ends up shifted to the top left a bit.. played around with settings, icc profiles etc to no avail. Are you able to help point me in the right direction, please? Thank you

You discussed using an expensive Hasselblad vs. an iphone for photographing artwork- but how about something in between? I have a Fujifilm X-T2 camera and lenses, and copy stand that I could use to photograph artwork (watercolors). I'm also looking to buy a printer... I'm assuming I'm better off buying something like the XP 15000 or P700 and photographing the artwork than I would be buying a printer with a built in scanner -- am I correct? I've already used the Fujifilm camera, copy stand, and a lightbox to scan negatives using Negative Lab Pro software with really good results. Thanks for your great videos! Robert

Speaking from experience, lightroom cannot do fully true colors. I have to use capture one for reproduction. I can explain why if anyone cares