Some more great work there again, well done. From experience I know that with some projects a large amount of time is spent in the design work. Looks like you spent a lot of time on the design work here, and the mechanism turned out great and functions well. Thanks for sharing.

Excellent video! Thank you for sharing.

Great Work again, Thanks for Showing👍

Good work yet again. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎

Nice bit of work, especially reusing the aluminium from the unfortunate dust collector. Regarding the possibly slightly sloppy bearing fit you mentioned: I've heard that for lighter duty loads you can rough up/disturb the inside of the bore the bearing is to fit into with a punch, this has the effect of reducing the diameter, and allowing a bearing to fit more snugly. And a wooden handle on the end of the arm would really make the whole thing pop, while also lengthening it for more torque. Though that would increase the amount you need to pull to work the drawbar...

Old parts are always great new cleaned parts 👍

yeah, i finally got my cnc mill yesterday, and did my first wood and alu testparts and its really cool to finally be able to replicate some of your (or others) projects

There are hydraulic cylinders used in car repair. Small one is 50mm high, and with hand pump generates pressure measured in tons. Travel is around 10mm. I am planning to use one o these as power component, with foot operated pump for hands free operation.

Man power drawbar👍 Nice job, sir.

This man will do anything to avoid getting a bandsaw 🤣

Great job man !

very nice!

Given there's such a short travel required to release the grip on tooling, would a simple cam on a lever be feasible? Regardless, it's another great bit of home machining there.

Really nice solution.

A pull cord attached to the end of the handle might be an improvement so you don't have to reach up so high. Nice build.

Gday, overall it works quite well and it’ll be interesting to see how it holds up in heavier cuts in steel, great job as always mate and thanks for sharing, cheers

Thanks for that.

Быструю смену инструмента обеспечивает? А ,это главное . Идея отличная . Лайк поставил

Muito bom ! Parabéns.

The Emco PC55/F1 cnc mill has a really elegant example of a manual drawbar release for their BT30 spindle. Grabcad has a really accurate model. They use an excentric cam to create the mechanical advantage. I've been planning to reproduce this component for my build as the orginal spindle is extremely hard to find.

Really love the voice over

Very impressive sir .. I am new to machining and have learned a lot from you.. please continue to post videos … so far I have learned to make a fly cutter watching your video , a mill vice speed wheel , and I have gained some knowledge as well from watching your videos . Thanks again .

Good call on recycling the aluminium from the old project - I am considering buying a furnace similar to that unit you bought, simply to be able to make aluminium bar stock to feed the mill and the lathe, the price of aluminium billets is eye watering, and old mag rims are not to expensive or hard to get if you keep an ear to the ground!

I really like your videos, and they have inspired me to make things again. Thank you! I got to tell you though... you're killing me - watching you saw all of your metals by hand. Get a chinese 4x6 bandsaw, mate. Then you'll have all kinds of new project videos modifying it!!

Come on Artisan. Surely with the skills you currently have, making a power hacksaw, even a small one that uses standard blades, should be a walk in the park!

Thank you very much for your great work with inspiration and motivation. You could choose a so called "knee lever" design to realize a sufficient translation ratio with fewer parts.

The bigest drawback of your solution is the fact that all that release force you need to apply for a tool change is applied to your precios AC bearing in the spindle. Pinch type release mechanism is the one to use. Anyway very good and informative video. Thanks!

Drawbars in large CNC mills use this sort of arrangement to hold tools. BT30, BT40, CAT40, etc all use the Belleville washer arrangement to retain tools and release them quickly. It is a simple system that can easily withstand heavy cutting forces.

There is only one issue I can see using the Belleville Washers and that is , If you don't install a tool into the collet it will over compress it and most likely bend it. I would strongly recommend you add some sort of lock in the down position for the handle just in case you don't have a tool to hand or drop it? You can then lock it open and grab or adjust the tool you are using. Think Hand brake handle from a car type of lock. The Morse taper is a lot shallower than a BT style taper or any of the standard dedicated milling tapers. It really is only made for driving rotationally and very little side load. There is also the added issue of the diameter differences of the tooling. Belleville Washers give a lot of force differential over a small amount of travel. Good for precision bad for any variance. For a mill with that type of clamping taper a wound spring would be more in order as it would have a smaller change in force over a longer distance of travel. A decent Valve spring ot of an engine would be ideal. Belleville Washers are used in machine tools and will hang in there for years but those are BT , CAT or HSK tapers and work to a very fine tolerance height wise for the pull studs. Regardless you have made it work and it has solved your problem. So nothing wrong with that. Cheer's

Using Belleville washers in opposed directions makes the spring softer, if you stack them the same direction (nested) makes for a much stiffer spring with the bonus that you don't need as many..

It’s not a permanent solution to the issue, nor is it a complete failure. It’s just another turn on the road to the final, let’s say “situation” 🤔 🤷🏼‍♂️ I think it works 🙌🏻 Can’t wait to see the next version you consider, and the next project!

That is an amazing amount of planning and work. I love watching the thought process of development. Here is some thing to think about; Couldn't you use a small arbor press bolted to the top for simplicity?

Cool build. The primary lever is essentially a cam and could be simplified into an arm with an eccentric of the same length as the pusher bolt/stud or a cam with limit switches if you’re inclined to automate it. I’ve been thinking about small CNC tool changers lately and this was right in line with that kind of project.

I love seeing the upgrades u come up with and more times than not just like all of us money is a main factor ....can I suggest u start a members page or a patreon account to help with projects I think alot of people would donate

Really hope this works for you. Great job

Hoi nice work a bit heavy for the job but it works , to get more clamping power the springwassers should be two on two or even 3 by 3 stacked that gives double spring strengt, stacking more one by one gives a slightly softer spring. 6 (9) washers will be sufficient for the travel and gives you a lot of springforce. The stack you use wil give slipping destroying the tools and spindle, try the spring with fasting the drawbar using the normal effort, and you will see how weak your spring realy is. succes Jos

My friend, you really need to budget for a bandsaw. A little 5 X 6 horizontal/vertical bandsaw is worth it’s weight in gold, is relatively inexpensive, and is the most useful tool in my shop after the mill and lathe.

Since this double lever requires not that much power, perhaps it could be driven by a motor or some (weak) hydraulic system. Then you could use a foot switch.

Amazing how little travel there is on the drawbar itself. I think parts from this project could be useful for someone with an air cylinder with either too little power and or to much travel. I picture a cylinder laying down horizontal vs vertical and pushing on a backwards L with the vertical part of L super long to accommodate a longer travel air cylinder which seems to be more common then short fat cylinders. The cylinder I have in mind came from a junk yard. I'm sure a 2 stage lever could also be used.

Does the pin that connects the levers and puts downward pressure on the drawbar rotate? I ask because if it doesn't turn, you could put a grub screw in the centre of the pin lined up with the drawbar to make fine adjustments to the downward pressure. Even though It sucks it took so long, I do appreciate you mentioned how long it took, as many makers make a task look easy and quick when it is far from reality.

nice we just talked about this a+

Here in the States we use a Butterfly style impact guns that is mounted in a frame on push springs on each side that a lever is used to pull down the entire frame unit to make contact with the draw bar nut..it will have a lever mechanism to choose between tighten / loosening then just let go of the lever to allow the unit to spring up on captive rods the push springs are on etc..the Butterfly impact gun is very compact and rather weak with nearly no real use besides this use..it uses a Butterfly or dead mans lever on the side to operate it etc..

That roughing end mill looked a bit course for the material you were cutting. More suited for softer metals??

seeing your design, i see how i'd make one. a fair deal different, maybe if you do a second, some day, you'll ask for suggestions. it seems you're not satisfied with it, maybe... a small air cylinder, longer, levered, it'd take about the same amount of air, but over a longer time, so your compressor might handle it. perhaps a foot lever operated motorcycle brake cylinder for hydraulic operation, it'd take almost no changes to the current set up.

just if anybody is interested, an air cylinder that is capable of 2900N cost 70 USD in aliexpress

What force are your washers rated at? The way you have them stacked, you aren't increasing the force, so you are only getting the force of 1 washer pulling on the drawbar. Stacking like you did only increases the distance they can compress. You would need to nest them the same direction (not flipping every other) to increase force.

Nicely done, nearly there just needs some fine tuning. I thought Sieg SX2.7s came with a captive drawbar just like the SX3 I have, it's the cylinder that screws on top which the drawbar head pushes against. I've seen Edward's design but wasn't confident of getting the correct preload on the Belville washers.

Cool

I was thinking how to cut the 20mm thick Aluminum plate over the weekend.

⭐🙂👍

Have you considered trimming down the MT collet in your mill spindle? That would be a free rigidity upgrade

Powerless drawbar. Hmmm, new thought. What did you mean at 9:17 - 9:30? Has the large extra mass above the mill affected the stability or more likely, the vibrations?

I was actually thinking of the same thing i was planning on using an electric linear actuator because im not ready to add a permanent air compressor to my shop

stacking the spring washer alternating them, increases the travel but not the force. stacking them all in the same direction (nesting) increases the force but keeps the travel small. Just thought to clarify as you mention increasing the force but show alternating washers.

what about a where the force comes from an offset... like vise grips... or cams... I've seen those used in sheet metal breaks and the like for shaping metal... just an idea... fun times!

I never used this system. In Germany, we used to use self locking tapered heads which come off by giving them a sideways whack with a piece of wood or rubber hammer.

what did you use to clean the cosmoline off the sieg machines when first arrived and what do you use after that to keep machine from rusting i would love a video on maintenance on both the mill and lathe

Hello, I love your video and I watching them for a long time. Btw I'm curious, what is your accent ? It seems a bit australian to my french ears but I don't think you are coming from here.

what is the programme used at 2:29?

Wait just one minute there my man! You didn't use a hacksaw on that aluminium. I feel very ripped off XD XD

I got an idea for your next project. A power hacksaw! I'm amazed at how much hand sawing you do, I'd go insane. I had to hand cut a 2" dia piece of A26 solid bar a few weeks ago and my arms were dead 😥

An airpot from air brakes on a semi truck or trailer would probably work that lever for you.

Did you buy solidworks or did you get it for free. If so, how?

I suggest switching to sk30 on the sieg you can get the replacement at paulimot and they are crazy good. It’s way faster to change the tool.

This device is great. But I would make it from sheet metal and profile pipe by welding.

The accent can't help but draw unfavorable comparisons to Clickspring mate 😂 only taking the p, keep up the great vids

Another take on the lever draw bar. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j86ZgNKCxrK1poE.html

Wanted to rewatch this video and saw it's been moths already?!!? Anyways I wonder how it's holding up

Perhaps I'm wrong, but this type of fast tool changing is a "bicycle invention". There is a much more effective and cheaper way to do this by pneumatic or hydraulic. Pneumatic is definitely better solution. It will be very easy to operate by this tool (for example use feet to lock/unlock tool). Anyway you have lathe machine, and can to make your own pneumatic cylinder. Try to search VotyanCGI channel. He make his own cylinder by using a lathe. Mainly, my opinion based onnyour time which you spend on this project. 7 months is a REALY a lot.

Is it a problem to leave the spindle empty? I can imagine that it might be possible to crush the collet? (though it might well close down the slots while still in the elastic area, making this not a concern) One advantage of a pneumatic design is that it is can be set to "pinch" the spindle, so that it pulls up on the top-hat and down on the bar. I did this with a specially made cylinder that has a small amount of vertical float in the mounting. It's been pretty reliable for about 12 years. (It was also apparently filmed with a potato back then so I won't give a link) One way to make up for an inadequate compressor is to use a tandem cylinder design. I think that one of the ones you showed was a stack of three. I eventually went that route with mine, making a double-stack cylinder. This video shows the design and assembly, but none of the manufacture: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o8CHhNmikr6bdIU.html

Больно сложно нагородил

Unless you already had the bearings the local bearing shop will sell you them way cheaper

All your manual hacksawing makes my arms burn lol Keep an eye out for a small band saw, should be able to get one pretty cheap if you have the room.

"power drawbar - powerless drawbar"

"my air compressor really isn't up to the job" bro that makes no sense. all it depends on is the diameter of the cylinder. if your compressor does 100 psi and the cylinder is 2 inches in diameter, that's 314 lbs of force. if it's 4 inches in diameter that's 1257lbs - some cars don't weigh that much. and with only the inch or so of travel you need, even if you have a tiny ass compressor tank it still works.

o7 so long 4-axis

Ahahahahhaa ok

you need a band saw my friend

7 months?????

You really need to get yourself a metal cutting bandsaw.

does this mans realise his vice lacks a lot of rigidity, its gotta be way more rigid to produce better products and better quality surface finishes

buy a band saw

sorry dude, but your "upgrades" have almost all been complete wastes of time, money and material.

Slitting Saw > Hacksaw. I swear you still hacksaw your stuff just for rage-baiting commenters!