It was literally the first comment, lol. I feel like people that make these comments must not actually work in a shop because I don't know anyone that doesn't commit these little machinist fopaux's on a regular basis. Nice to know someone else knows my pain 😉

Lol Abom79 would be screaming

@@PhysicsAnonymous it's fine, you still haven't fixed the ways on the lathe anyway, right?

@@cavemaneca exactly .. no loss

you could always buy the expensive proper slotting tool, for each snap ring size a individual one obviously

We got you covered. (Ducks behind bushes)

Your welcome anytime Adam! And I'm sure Bink appreciates the joke :) she keeps asking me to read one of her comments, so I figured I would make her work for it.

Mike maybe I’ll plan on spending a few extra days off when I come up for Evans wedding. Really looking forward to seeing the shop.

Yeah, the joys of time travel I'm afraid. That part was filmed before we finished the tool post grinder.

@@PhysicsAnonymous Well that negates my planned comment/suggestion about a tool post grinder.

cuesta 2000 euros

Word on the street is that it's extremely adequate! I fully plan to (Mike) but Ryan is a bit apprehensive about decoupling that mechanical linkage for threading ops. Have you had any failures so far?

@@PhysicsAnonymous I haven't yet. The only issue would be lost steps or overwhelming the servo, and that comes down to the torque requirements of the particular lathe and the cut.

Full-CNC is only fractionally more work. (Depending on how far you go. If you make new castings to replace the gearbox, apron and leadscrew support then it's a lot more work.)

I think they said it was beyond their abilities.

I would like to mention this: in this video, there's a new style unicorn. Although it's cool to, I like the previous one better.

@@besenyeim I'm guessing they came up with their own design because they don't have the rights to the one they've been showing. I do like the logo background. The Horse could use a little more definition.

@@halyenwe I assumed it was fan-art, like a featured artist type thing. If not, it would be a good idea, do the occasional fan-art unicorn at the end of the episode (assuming they get some unicorn fan-art, lol)

TheMixmastamike1000 they are spring steel so if specified correctly they can easily last into the millions of cycles.

Yup, going all TTS. We found a pretty good price on some knock off holders on eBay. They don't seem to be super hardened, but work well enough.

They’re using the standard TTS from tormach. All of the toolholders use a standard 3/4” shank that fits into the same collet.

There is also aftermarket TSS clone tool holders on ebay for half of the Tormach price. You will have to be careful with the size of cutters and how much stickout with the 940 and a beltdrive and larger motor. You will be able to pull out a tool if the cut gets too ruff.

Had to watch it a few times myself. It never actually is coupled. The actuator rod just pushes down on the top of the spring loaded drawbar to release collet. When it retracts it isn't touching the drawbar.

As Mark pointed out there's no connection between the cylinder rod and the drawbar when the spindle is rotating. You can see the gap between the cylinder rod and the head of the drawbar at 11:50.

Holy fuck that's an obscure reference!

Hoping to- mechanically it isn't that hard, but all far it seems like integrating it with mach is going to be the tricky thing

Oh yeah, I think it's a great size for a manual Mill.

If I'm understanding your question, the "setting" is done but the initial torque applied to the drawbar with a Collet (and tool in collet). This is where getting the right working load and full flattening values come into play. You want a stack of washers that gives you a load you want (like the 2700lbs) while still have a good amount of travel before flattening but at the same time not having a rapid load increase the further you compress the stack (like for example, you dont want something that is going to take 1000lbs of force to further compress it say another .005in). You then torque the drawbar to the torque that gives you the desired load, then you just need a cylinder and right air pressure that gives enough force and movement to compress the stack further enough that the collet releases the tool. You really dont need much movement from the assembly to release the tool in most cases.

Chris oh, I was imagining that you just hand unscrew one collet and screw in another, but was forgetting that most (non clapped out) milling machines actually have a locating pin that keeps the collet from rotating. So you do still have to do a bit to switch collets, especially considering with the cylinder mount, you can’t just spin the wrench around the top to eject. If they removed the pin from the collet receiver they could loosen and then just spin the collets out.

@@natthewsmith No, with this type of power drawbar system, you are leaving the collet in and just changing the tool. This is for if you are using something like the Tormach TTS tooling where all the holders have a 3/4" shank and you are just leaving the 3/4" collet in the machine and only trying to get it to release enough that the tooling pops out. If one wants a "power drawbar" where you can / are changing out the collet and tool, then he or she would need to do the impact wrench type kind of like what Physics Anonymous put up the card for in the beginning of this video for their previous power drawbar build.

Chris on the collet there is normally a little slot that aligns with a pin in the spindle, if there is no pin in the spindle, as I said before, you could feasibly depress the drawbar system and spin the collet out, but yes, I see the design intent and thank you for clarifying.

@@natthewsmith Sorry, I miss read your last comment. Yes, you are correct.. If the screw has been removed, then technically yes, one could depress the drawbar and simply unscrew the collet from the bar. This though would create a desire to have the depression travel be much greater to be able to get a decent purchase on the collet that was in there but I do see how this could be handy if one has tooling that has R8 shanks are part of the tooling like maybe a large facemill that has its own integral R8 Shank.. If one were going to do attempt something like that, I would say to install a regular collet and 3/4" tool, torque it as per normal, then hit the button to depress the drawbar. With it depressed, schew the collet in till i makes contact with the spindle nose and note how much you have to turn it in to make contact. Then back it back out by that amount. From there, if you did use a tool that had its own shank, then you would just hold the drawbar depressed with the air cylinder, thread in the new collet / tool until it contacts the spindle, then back it off by that amount you determined earlier and release the air cylinder to draw it back in. While that method probably wont result in exactly the same pull force, it should be pretty close. It might be a good idea to not back it off as much as what was originally determined so that way you know you are getting at least what the original pull force was at the initial setup. On the flip side though, pull force can be somewhat less important on tooling that has its own integral shank like say a facemill or boring head since there is not concern of the tool being pulled out of the collet itself. The pull force in these cases is really just to keep the taper seated and to not have the shank of the tooling spin / slip in the spindle. Like I said though, pull force "can be somewhat" less important. I say it like this because of the spin / slip in the spindle. For example, a heavy cut on say something like a 3" facemill is going to impart a substantially higher torque load on the tool and spindle then say a really light cut with say a 2" facemill. So as we can see, its really a "case by case" situation.

Damn straight!

Aren't the beds crooked on that lathe anyway?

We actually have a video on both of these things! Check them out. We didn't use them here because a lot of this video was filmed before we had finished them

@@PhysicsAnonymous I will most definately do that , im not quite sure why it didnt show in abos to me since i have been subscribed to your very informative and creativity inducing channel for a while now

The demon grinder is ok to use though

Probably a reprimand on free drilling sheet metal parts. All it takes is hanging up a drill bit one time to turn your mill or drillpress into a helicopter or meat grinder. Yikes!

@@opendstudio7141 just lean over, you'll be fine ;)

So? Is there a rule that there can only be one cat video on KZfaq too? (FWIW, I did this in 2010: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pt6ira2QsMzHgWQ.html )