If it’s a 5.7 you’re working on it’s easy man first big job I ever took at my shop was a rebuild of a old 4 door cop car with the 5.7 put a choppy cam in it and everything there’s plenty of kits out there with tuners and everything you need

Doing the same diving into my 04 ram oil pump😳

Just nuts and bolts man

Thanks for your input and tips in the comments dl. I was monitoring very carefully when cleaning the heads up to make sure i was not scratching up the surfaces and also went over with a fine tooth comb for any wire bristles

@@ghostlyrich the issue is the oil galleys, you can never be 100% sure nothing went in or be able to clean them in vehicle. While you're working on a project engine that you can afford to rebuild, when working on a customer's vehicle it's a different ballgame. Obviously this isn't meant to discredit you or your experience, simply to spread the knowledge and identify potential issues down the line with such an approach, for others that will view your video and might not be as careful.

@@DL101ca its definitely worth noting, thanks again for your input

I agree with you.. there's some people that just send not be making videos like this and next thing you know causing other people to ruin their engines as well causing damage to the engine if they don't know what they're doing they should just leave it to people that know what they're doing this guy we are watching now clearly is not a real mechanic I'm only still watching for laughs and giggles😂

@@shawngivens5350we all have to learn somewhere. You being a mechanic and laughing at someone doing something they clearly enjoy is lame on your part. Begetter you could’ve easily made a positive comment or said nothing at all.

Nice! Glad it helped

I was gonna say, GOTTA do the oil pump as well. Just got done with my 13 Charger 5.7, TSP choppacobra cam, hell cat lifters, same oil pump, aftermarket spring, jba shorty headers, and went ahead and redid the whole front end suspension and all around break while I was at it. Not a car guy at all, other then a new oil pump on the wife’s Durango this is my first big under the hood job. KZfaq is a blessing man, and like you said, shout out to these guys who make these videos!!!

Glad its helping. Enjoy the journey and celebrate the results 🍻

A c-clamp is ok, but if you make a set up similar to an arbor press two compress valve springs where you can just pull the handle and done less than a second then move to the next one you'll never do it the conventional way again lol. What we used to assemble engines when I was doing light aircraft engines. We would stick a cylinder in a fixture with two levers you could put springs, retainers, seats, and keepers on intake and exhaust in about a minute. After using that I had to have one at home so I built my own

Garage built tools are the best kinda tools.

Why do you need a magnet

Insurance to keep small pieces from falling into tight spaces @@jeeplivion

One dab of grease is what just about everyone I've ever met recommends for holding those keepers in place when you're assembling. Using a magnet to pull them out is also another way to make your life a lot easier. I do use a magnet to remove keepers just because it's much easier, but I spent a few years building engines all day and my specific job was to put valves in I can pretty much grab two keepers at a time slide them in without even looking and release the spring about 30 seconds per valve. Practice makes perfect

@@jamesh978 Absolutely on a smear of grease to hold the locks when reinstalling. A magnetic pickup tool is very handy to get dropped lock pieces too.

I went to the Camaro ss fan since the motors going in a Jeep Wrangler jk haha. Electric fans definitely the way to go

Dodge covered the repair at 100K miles???? How did you work that out? My Jeep just started "misfiring" - and it's not the plugs or coils...

It's amazing how often the 5% failure of cam/lifter gets reported on social media. It is a weak point but not as co..o. as they would hab Very you believe.

hey any update my 2013 is at 235k and same issue misfire in cylinder 8 want to do the same

I say the difference torques specs and sequences through out. If you feel unsure there is allot of good reference off google I have used before

You can get any shop manual imaginable on e-manual online. My first manual was supposed to be for 2000-2006 Chevy trucks but only covered 200-2002, so if you have any problems e mail them and they’ll sort it out for you. I got a Magnum shop manual for 2005-2006. It rocks. There are some odd things not in it that I would have expected, but it is quite thorough and definitely has all the torque specifications for every single part on those cars.

How many miles were on engine& do you think A hell cat oil pump would help lifter going away?

@@thomashartle2820 hell cat oil pump will help with better oil pressure to get up on the rollers and cam lobes which in theory will help prevent lifter failure

It will just be extremely careful its seated correct and stays seated correct as tou remove them

Man I've done this with the water pump on a 5.3 except I forgot to hook up the lower rad hose. "Whats with the rushing liquid sound? Oh SHIT"

Once you've done it twice, it will never happen again. Always make sure the gasket matches the coolant passages and oil galleys properly, sometimes we rush the most important part and it always bites you in the arse. At least it only cost you your time some coolant and nothing else.

You could definitely in high horsepower applications, i have it in my jeep and im actually probably going to go back down because the the 3000 shift rate i have is brutal on hills haha

If you were able to sort out which cylinders were causing the issues it migh by one of the coil packs even. The rods just slide down into the bottom of the lifters

@@ghostlyrich thanks for your reply... I figured if that was the case, I would get another code for a certain cylinder misfire. But I have a buddy coming over to connect his nice shiny snap on scan tool to pin point the issue. Will report the issue just incase someone else incounters the same issue

@@ghostlyrich I took of the passenger side valve cover and what do you know, one of the exhaust pushrods was out of place!!! You said it in your video multiple times! Lol. I can't believe it. But that was my issue

@@albertcossio3297 awesome!! Glad you found it

@@albertcossio3297how noticeable was the push rod was out ?

Lol I definitely had a moment and was going to edit out but figured would give a few a good laugh

Exactly, depending on your kms you could do a new timing chain well the covers off and reignited just posted a awesome video on putting a hell cat oil pump in to increase oil pressure to get oil up to the lifters easier.

My 5.7 is out tge car but uma do a billet comp cam stage wit that you have to delete mds wit a billet timing chain kit hellcat oil pump is not necessary the stock oil pumps are good for 550hp now if you will have more power than that yeah hellcat pump

@@vee950 very nice I only mentioned the hellcat oil pump because people say it gets oil up onto the Cam and lifters a little better with the additional oil pressure. It’s double the oil pressure of stock.

@@ghostlyrich I watched his series of videos on that subject. Was a very detailed and simple logical approach and explanation and I'm wanting to get a ram 1500, preferably an '09 or newer Because the hellcat oil pump did not directly fit the block on pre '09.

And as soon as I find one of my liking, I'm having the cam and lifters and springs swapped regardless of there's a tick or a knock sound whatsoever. If it's used and has over 100k miles why not right? It's only a matter of time it will have the tic and while I'm doing that might as well remove the old exhaust manifold and put on some shorty headers.

I don’t the cam will because of vvt

About 60hp

Also cam u send me the part number for cam.

You can throw the whole timing set up together thank crank

C clamp style is definitely way nicer If I were to do this again I would probably order one

16.5

No fricken way I got it. Thank you so much it was driving me insane. I did also do new front and rear lifters stock mds, new cylinder head with all hardware already installed. No play now ❤

What's crazy is I had the pushrods in the correct holes, I did however have the rail itself upside down

Yes, i also show in another video on tighting it using a serpintine and rachet strap lol

Had no key on this one

It has to go on the "right" way...lol.

Lol i say it in the video i did and show the correction :) coolants flowing fine

You could definitely do mds delete. Well in there could even do oil pump and timing chain and tensioner if you wanted

Nice! Im going to build a LT motor for my c7 next :)

lmfao! you are joking right?

😂😂omg

Lol i got one. Unfortunately didnt have it for this video but i had it when i built my vette motor

I did not :) but in the future if i notice oiling issues i will put in the hellcat oil pumpor another brand of high scavaging oilpump

Wierd what exactly broke these 6.4 springs are still going awesome in my build after a year and i know a few builds that have had them even longer

@@ghostlyrich Yes, I've heard they can live You're just not getting the potential that you could get being that the springs are not set up at the proper install height. I work at corporate headquarters and review this with SRT airflow engineers and they highly recommend setting up for proper spring height for performance and reliability.

@@scottyk5627 interesting to note. Havent had any problems yet with a few builds here but will keep a eye on it. Thanks for the heads up

I have never actually left the Mds hooked up during a cam swap out just because of the problems associated with the MDS system. It’s hard on your rotational assembly and transmission to torque converter when it jumps into four cylinder and 8 Cylinder mode

Uuups I was asking cause I already bought my 6.4 camshaft and lifters with mds, any suggestions will be appreciated.

@@JuanDominguez-nw8rq you could use it still. I would suggest you do a stronger oil pump, depending on year some people run the hellcat oil pump that way you can get more flow up to the lifters so they don’t fail. Im guessing your not able to exchange lifter to non mds ?

So change lifters to non mds and hell cat oil pump.

@@ghostlyrich 2015 5.7 charger engine

I would get valve springs, lifters(probably a good time to replace them anyway and start fresh with a new cam),MDS plugs if deleting, a new oil pump, timing gear set(chain, tensioner, guide and crank sprocket), crank seal, timing cover seal, head bolts(Torque to yield bolts are supposed to not be reused, if not stretched you could but better be safe than sorry and they're cheap), head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets since yours are pretty old at this point. Oil pan gasket/windage tray, they come as one unit. Inspect pushrods for wear and tear and if they're straight(if not, replace). Also a good time to replace your spark plugs if you haven't done them in a while(there's 16 of them).

Cam goes in and then sprocket slips on the indicator, the sprocket has the timing indicator dot you use to time the came to the crank :)

No, phaser lock is for deleteing vvt. Which is deleted when using various of aftermarket cams. Since im using 6.4 cam no cam phaser lock needed

I inspected them and had a few eyes on them they looked perfectly fine this motor only has 70k km on it

You can. It's all about the tune keeping things from breaking. A good tune is key. Just let whoever is tuning know you have a stock bottom end.

The 6.5 cam wasn't meant for boost, so a properly specd boost cam and tune would give you the best results since you're spending the money and going either turbo or supercharged. Don't do things half assed, especially if you want reliability. While it would work, there's no guarantee you won't experience a major failure costing you more than just doing it right the first time and not having to worry, trust me. You will feel much better pushing that engine without worry.

Last comment of yours il comment on, the vehicle works fine and without leaks. If this method works fine for you feel free to share it, trust me if you make a video showing it that way some ones going to come along and say your way is garbage, Welcome to wrenching.

You don't have to, but it won't damage anything.

Sony A6500

Il let you know when I get it on the dyno apparently about 60hp gain

@@ghostlyrich any update with dynamic numbers?

@@slammedeuro104 I posted a video recently with the dyno results on 35 inch tires

Are you talking about a cam phaser lock out?? It is not used on the 5.7 and 6.4 cam

@@ghostlyrich yes that!

I have heard of people leaving them in with out issue that being said you can easily get them out with a vacuum or use a hook pick if its jammed in there well running the vaccum

@@ghostlyrich i got them out tonight with a long pair of pliers. Worked like a charm

Yes lol thats why even in the video i always say suck the spots out with a vacuum just to make sure all debris and left overs are pulled out.

@@ghostlyrich most people don't know that there are tiny magnets on the bottom of the mds solenoids that sometimes gets stuck in the block and the only way to get them out is with a pair of long tip needle nose pliers. You should create a video instructing that these must be removed in this case.

Plug them with iridium

@@ghostlyrich I didn't realize that MDS delete doesn't delete the dual plug format. Yes. Crazy of me. I know. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Hey...at least I'm learning.💪🏻🤓

Purchased all through dealership, all parts including upgraded cam pieces about 2500$ cad

If you had a 5.7 in there before no you will not. Just need to take it to a tuner to adapt the pcm

The older 5.7 is different than the 6.4, and the 6.1 is different than either version of 5.7. I got lucky and bought a 6.1that had about 10,000 miles before the owner bought a crate motor. The 6.1 is pretty well bullet proof.

6.4 cam gives a 60+hp bonus Mds is hard on rotational assembly as it pops in and out of 4 cylinder mode, people have had better luck with deleting the collapsible lighters. Plus its one less thing to have to worry about failing, it was known for the collapsible lifters to cause premature hemi tick. There’s a few reason with sound well driving being one of them lol nothing sounds worse than when it kicks into 4 cylinder mode

@@ghostlyrich ohh alright, and the mds delete what is that?

Sorry I didn't see your other message on the bottom I got it now why

Cam will not pull ? Are you trying to remove the cam or saying the engine has no power ? To remove the cam, you need to remove all pushrods, give the cam a few spins by hand(obviously timing chain is removed at this point) to push the lifters out of the way, put the cam bolt back in a few threads and use it to pull the cam out. Once past the bearing, need to work it by spinning to clear the lobes as you pull out. The first pull takes a bit of force to break the fluid seal created at the bearings.

@@DL101ca I was able to. It got hung up on one of the cam bearings for some reason. It took a lot of patience, but it’s finally out!

If i get my hands on a short block for sure. Im probably going to be building a lt 6.2 motor for my vette in the near future il go over allot of that stuff the hardest part really is making sure you get a balanced setup so you buy pistons, rods and crank and they balance for your then you just have to worry about sizing the piston rings and installing the bearings. Depending on your goals for the project sometimes its easier to buy a fully built short block thats been balanced and assembled and then you can build from there. Most important is making sure that setup is balanced :) also definitely if you are going that deep i would suggest getting the block dipped so its cleaned up as well as inspected so you know you know your working with a solid foundation would hate to rebuild it and have missed something. 5.7 is a meaty block so they might even suggest honing it a bit. Sorry thats lengthy but hope it helps

@@ghostlyrich

It is a 5.7 from a 2014 ram. If you do a 6.4 cam you need to also do the 6.4 valve springs. Your push rods should be fine as long as long as there not bent but you would have much worse issues if they were. All these part numbers should work for your motor

And yes I highly suggest you tune so your timing is proper and you get the best out of the 6.4 add ons

@@ghostlyrich hey ghostly…great video man!!! Super detailed and to the point….i am in exact situation and will be doing this rebuild with 6.4 parts….so question is….when u say tune….what tune specifically did u set to?

@@alfonsoortiz2136 so what you would want to do is bring it to a tuning shop so they can go in with a software like hp tuner vcm editor for example and adapt for the new cam. There are KZfaq videos showing what to change in hp tuners when adapting your pcm for the new cam but it really is best to take it into a proper tuning shop as you will get results better suited to your vehicle.

You will have to get it tuned after doing an mds delete even if you are staying with a factory spec cam because even if you remove all the mds hardware, it will still cut fuel off to those cylinders if you don't reprogram it or run it in tow haul mode.

Lol reignited released a video on doing which was awesome a little while after i did this. That being said i never plan on doing forced induction on this car. If i did 💯 percent would put one in for the extra oil preasure.

Depends who you ask Chrysler techs say don’t bother, some say to soak them over night in oil. Comes down to preference in the end there known to rattle the first little bit after start up for the first bit

@@ghostlyrich not the lifters if I'm reading you right. I meant the push rods and rockers. I'm guessing everything went ok though. thanks for replying.

@@72chevelle156 oil pressure is achieved in seconds, if not less and there's oil holes sending oil to the rocker assembly through the hollow pushrods on all contact points. No abnormal wear will happen, not any more than at every startup of the engine.

@@DL101ca just an observation

@@72chevelle156 how would you reassemble them bro ? I did mine, but I'm not sure,if some rods were loose. I did each bolt 195 inch lbs. But it also could have been my springs, I just got my mopar performance springs in today & going to install them