Thanks for your kind words. I do try to make video how I'd like them. As to the point as quickly as possible. (Video isn't always the best way to share info but hopefully people find mine easier than some others).

Good news :)

Thanks :) though I must admit I do break a plastic case retaining clip or two on some machines (of various makes and models). It's sometimes unavoidable. If people manage to break ribbon cable clips or connectors then they have no business opening up electronics.

Good to hear and I hope it makes the machine feel like new!

Happy to have helped :) Thanks for commenting.

@@freename is it sata 3?

Hope the upgrade goes well!

Happy to be of assistance

Hope it goes well!

:)

thank you and I am happy to have helped. (sorry to comment but if you are RU: I hope for peace and stability for you and your neighbours.) Google Translate: спасибо, и я рад, что помог. (извините за комментарий, но если вы RU: я надеюсь на мир и стабильность для вас и ваших соседей.)

:)

Thanks for taking the time to say so!

I would expect that will still work fine :)

Hope it goes well :)

What's the end result bro?

Ah, I'm so used to putting them in a little map when I take them out and often explain I'm doing it on the video.. that I don't think to explain which ones go back where. I hope you figure it out or can somehow see which ones go where from the video.

I'm not entirely sure but it looks like some large but flat black screws hold it on.

Any machine can support an SATA SSD in place of a normal hard disk. And it looks like the A555 and X555 are very similar computers if not identical other than possibly specification.

Probably the easiest thing is to check what the maximum crucial.com sell for that machine is

I am not sure, sorry. You may find it better to just look for an entire spares and repairs computer or the palm rest with the cables, then take the cables from it.

I don't see why not. If it doesn't mount right just pack it out with a bit of card?

eek :( Other than really carefully using a large screen (computer?) to watch my video and see if you can tell the length of the screws... no idea :( If you are totally stuck - before screwing in.. think about how far the screw could go and if it might go through either.. -A component -touch the board -all the way through the top of the keyboard etc. Putting a screw which is too long in the wrong place can bend or break the plastic or destroy a circuit board.

yay

The RAM you can see in the video is soldered onto the board. There might also be a slot on the other side for expansion RAM too. But in mine nothing would have been in that slow.

Glad to have helped :)

@@freename gladly

How have you copied the data or installed the OS onto the SSD? And what message(s) or errors do you get?

@@freename was trying to install OS from a boot pen drive. All kinds of errors, but the most important part is that it never shows on my bios, I was able to install and use it for about 1h, crashed and never booted from it again

@@brunosoares8089 Test if the SSD shows when you use it on another computer? I have not seen a Crucial brand drive go wrong yet but it is always possible. Also check for connection problems like the SATA or power lead becoming slightly unplugged?

@@freename Yes, it does show, tried in 2 different ones. The sata connector is the same I use with my HDD, and works just fine with it

I don't know how the CPU is mounted on the board (you can't see it in the video as it's on the other side of the motherboard). If it's a socket CPU the maybe you can upgrade it. But I expect it is a BGA Array CPU soldered directly onto the motherboard. You would only be able to swap that out if you had a BGA solder rework setup and stencils etc. (In short.. not worth it for an old laptop like this, it's more likely than not to be a failure and nightmare).

@icannotgetafreename thank you sir for the detailed breakdown, appreciate for sharing the knowledge 🙏

I don't think that will as it is an "M.2" interface and not a 2.5inch SATA drive like the one I use in the video.

@@freename Replaced it yesterday, with a Kingston compatible (found online) and the difference is quite significant. Thanks again for great tutorial

@@001boothbay Yep! Hopefully the machine is performing quicker than it was when it was new!

Use the windows media creation tool on another computer (or the same pc before you take it to bits) to make a windows installer. Or, if you want to keep everything.. a usb to sata cable and clone software to copy your existing disk.

Possibly re-using the DVD slot for a hard disk instead?

Fan noise is unlikely to be solved by SSD upgrade. Speed is very likely to be improved with an SSD.

@@freename Can you make some video how to clean the fan and other stuffs. It will be so helpful.

I don't have the computer any more, sorry ;/

@@freename okay Thankyou for replying

@@aravindekanath hey aravind, I'm facing the same noise issue probably fan, is your issue solved?

Use memtest86 boot usb to run a memory test. Then if that doesn't have any problems check the SMART data for the hard disk or swap out the hard disk and see if the problem goes away. If you get blue screens after booting into the desktop the problem is more likely to be RAM.

@@freename swap out the hard disk - how I can do this ?

You mean swap out to change. Now I have understod

Look up crucial Bx500

Did you clone your old drive? If not, you need to clone the drive (if you want to mirror your old install) or if you want to start from the beginning, you need to install Windows. (Usually using a USB install stick created using the Microsoft Media Creation Tool on another computer).

No. Technically maybe, but realistically no. The processor will be BGA array soldered to the board and you will need an expensive solder rework station and complicated process to remove and replace the processor.

Or also say that wanting to run Windows 11 out of choice is unusual. It is an absolutely awful operating system at the moment. If you're looking at trying a new operating system, I'd highly recommend one of the easier Linux versions such as pop OS.

@@freename yeah after some research last night just going to have to get a new laptop unfortunately. We have to have windows 11 to run a tune for our car unfortunately. 😞

​@@smokymountainconcealment5356 There's very little difference in the underlying operating system Win10 to Win11, it's just the garbage UI which they've updated on 11. What happens if you try to install the software on Windows 10 ?

@@freename my tuner says I can’t cause he writes all the tunes on Windows 11 so I’ll need Windows 11 🤷‍♂️. I can’t take a chance on hurting the car at this point.

If it's near the audio / headphone port it's almost certainly a bead that got pushed into it.

It's backwards compatible. If the board doesn't do SATA 3 the drive will still work at the older specification.

@@freename Oh, okay. Which one does it support? At least SATA2 or just standard SATA? Thank you for answering!

I'm sorry but don't know on that one. Your googling will be as good as mine but I suspect it's going to be very difficult to find the information.

@@freename Yeah, it's a very specific information, hard to find tbh. But since I even cannot find SATA or SATA 2 for sale, I'll stick with SATA 3 that as you mentioned and I've readed, it's compatible with 1 and 2's interfaces. Cheers!

@@Pablo__Bossa did SATA 3 work ? And what about nvme ?

Use another computer to make a windows install USB and boot from the USB and install onto the new drive you have installed.

@@freename I tried that and it didn't work I even have the BIOS starting up from the USB flash drive and it's still not working thanks anyway

How did you make the usb drive?

@@freename I comprise the USB information from Microsoft website for media installer.

Sorry, I don't understand the question or comment.