Thanks for watching, I also replaced the tensioners as they had never been done. Made sense to do while at it. But it would have made too long a video. I may post it as a separate video. One of the new tensionner was bad out of the box and I had to repair it!

@@Veikra Please do! In the process of doing this rebuild and the cam tensioners are the next step.

Thank you, doing it quality work is why the car is still going strong after 20years and 600 000km

You can get all the way to 2007....but 2008 gives you the newer electrical system with the bigger screen and gps in the instrument cluster etc etc. also, 2008 is the start of the GOOD trunk lid motor. They are unobtanium. Im working on a rebuild kit for the old plastic case but that wont be in production for a little while still. I also prefer the power curve of the MPI when you first pull away from a stop vs the fsi BVJ. Seems smoother and quieter. Front nose removal on the bfm can be done in 30 mins, and only coolant needs to be drained. Im slowly nearing 600k on that car

@@Veikra 600k kms or miles? Either way thats an impressive milestone for any car; I knew these BFM engines were decently reliable but I had no idea they could make it to that kind of mileage with just regular maintenance.

thank you

And you can ask questions to the mechanic to makes sure you have a good mechanic. It never hurts to know how things are assembled

@@Veikra How did you learn so much knowledge about these engines? Are you an Audi mechanic by trade? New to the channel. Thanks.

Glad you liked. A bit long but figure since people barely watch a minute and a half of any of my video, it wouldnt matter :D

@@Veikra It's better to put out a quality video that people can actually reference than just put out fluff. What country are you in??

They are good. the 04-07 a8 4.2 are some of the best v8 ever made. When I see them fail is because the timing belt wasnt dones and car is over 200 000miles

@@Veikra Can you please elaborate as to why the 2004-2007 are the best?? I'm curious as an Audi lover and maybe potential buyer of one of these cars in the future.

Yes but you'd have to be WAY out for that to happen. Theres mark on crank pulley and timing cover. You have to be dead on for it to screw in all the way. If you miss enough for it to not catch the hole AND not hitting the counterweight on the crank preventing tool insertion then you are over 90 degrees off! You'll see the mark on the crank. If i see it in rust country youll see it anywhere on the world. Paint the pulley if you dont, it will pop and be obvious

Thank. It took a LOT longer just to film it and get some decent angles

If you can sub or like it would thank me a lot. And it`s free!

Yes, also solved tensionner issues (replaced both), fan wiring issues. All I have is secondary injection since the pump is dead. Put 2 new o2 sensor. Good until 710 000km. Im glad I did the timing belt myself this time.

You could also do it fighting for space. Id rather have more room. No radiators to remove, they all stay safe on the big core support. There is no time economy in trying to work around it, especially if you have to extract some bolts. ( I had to extract 2 waterpumps screws which were frozen). I've done many timing belts with my hands stuck between engine and frame on fwd so I appreciate the roomy experience those audi give me :p

Yes, its a big job but not as big as a timing chain . I never go to dealer unless under warranty. They charge more and are not the best skilled for such jobs as they dont do them often working mostly on new cars. Mine also does better on fuel than stated on epa paper ever since they fudged the number to make old car look bad :p

@@Veikra Actually, they were the only ones willing to do the job!

@@normansilverman8678 Lots of techinicians are improperly trained and can't work on cars that requires higher mental skills and dexterity. So a lot pass up on engine work like this. This car benefits from a very neat front end setup that gives a lot more room than transversal engines. I prefer those to most modern transversal V6.

I'd say the reason most techs or shops are not willing to work on the timing replacement is because of time & effort compared to something less involved & quicker to turn over profits on something simpler! But to be honest having to take the entire front clip off of a vehicle to do what should be a rather simple job is mind boggling unless you just love hardship or technical difficulties! Owning one scares me with all the forums & videos I've seen against this vehicle. I love the design and the interior layout,& craftsmanship but the maintenance is my only concern. I'm not a superstar or a professional accountant, Doctor or lawyer so my funds are limited! $3500 here & $1500 dollars there really drains the wallet if you know what I mean.😜✌️

I should probably do so in future videos. It`s a good idea

Even more was done but that'll be for another video. I don't want to make videos too long, people have short attention spans nowaday :p

Thank you

Yes it's my car. It's an S8 bumper with 2009 A8L grille. Front end swap was worth it but still need to install the center piece. S8 is also mine, V10 goodness.

@@Veikra nice!!! Bro , we are obsessed ?? I have an 09 a8 ( that I want a s8 bumper ) and I have an 08 s8 with v10 lol . I thought I was the only crazy one!!! Both black

@@christian_urocar Fantastic cars and definitely well built in that generation. Aluminium was high grade so no corrosion even in salt country.

@@Veikra I feel in love when I got the a8. That obsession led me to the s8 . To me the best looking sedan ever made !

I bought the a8l to get the taillights for the s8 as they were bad on it....then kept it since it was still running good and just kept putting more kms on it. The a8 is more obviously air ride and adaptive suspension and I really like the feeling when it comes in and out of cornering mode. S8 is more planted and doesnt feel much different than a normal car. If I could find a 2008 or 2009 w12 I would probably sell the a8l though. Not many of those , they are as rare as can be because of the 2007-08 financial crash

I avoid saying torque because I want people that will do the job after seeing a video to research and counter verify the data provided at least a little bit before jumping it. Jumping over the torque specs allow this. Hope you understand my reasoning.

Greetings. You are in luck. This engine, the bfm only uses a chain between the 2 cam shafts. While driving the car, the left bank of cylinder has the adjuster at the front. The right side of the car has it at the rear, under the intake tube. The left side is the easier one. You do NOT have to remove the engine. You only remove the valve cover and the exhaust camshaft to make things easier. You CAN do it without removing the camshaft but it's harder. I bought cheaper ones for my car for testing if they were good. One came with a defective solenoid. I fixed it with a solenoid from my old one. The second, left side never worked right. I would stay with name brand. Either OEM or gates, mahle etc if you can find them.

thank you. The tool is VERY fragile as you experienced. If you tighter too far or too quickly it can break. I did film the tensionner replacement but wasnt happy with the video outcome. I do have to redo a tensionner on that car, bad aftermarket part didnt work out for long. It has the telltale knock on some startups. Im guessing I'll be replacing it next month. It will be the left (car) side tensionner and thus should be easy to film and show. Hopefully it's soon enough to be of help for you. Otherwise, remember you may have to undo the exhaust camshaft so that you get enough room to set it in despite the tensionner being all the way compressed.

Pretty sure my cams on that side will both have to come out….the tensioner tool broke and there is no compression at all on the tensioner. It just has the last 2” of threaded section screwed into the bottom shoe of the tensioner. (The plastic wings on the tool were too fat to fit between the chain and the tensioner so it threaded too far in before it pulled the tool down in between the chain/tensioner but had already bottomed on the head and then broke.) Thanks again for the video!

@@daveanspach9401 SHould probably do the timing belt as well if you have to pull the intake cam, you have to undo everything

Oh yeah, I’m doing everything short of the crank seal. Camshaft seals, cam tensioner pads, cam tensioner gaskets, water pump, t-stat, rollers, both belts, tensioners, alternator, motor mounts and torque mount.

@veikra Happy new year! Hope it’s off to a smooth start wherever you are! Wanted to see if by any chance you’ve done (or re-done, I guess) the cam chain tensioner on your car. I’ve finally extracted the three broken water pump bolts from my car and ready to dive into the cam chain tensioner on my car and get her back on the road.

ты делаешь сейчас!

no it`s overkill, and it`s not a silicone either.

both side. Already bought them, so if they fail Im ready to put new ones in

It`s fixable but..... the heads needs to come off, valves replaced, possible head damages on top of it. How old was that belt? They should be replaced every 70 000 miles and last easily 100 000miles

you are right, hence why one must uncouple the cam sprockets

no, 2008 is a chain on the a8

@@Veikra Ah ok.

4.2 is only the displacement. There is dozens of different 4.2 engine models. Some with belts, some with chains. All the newer ones are chain, though. The BFM and BGK of the audi a8 and a8l are some of the best v8 ever made.

@Veikra I picked yp a 98 a6 with a 2.8 5v. 109k miles, everything but abs works...for now. Very well taken care of, doin timing belt, thromostat and valve cover gaskets next month

In my experience Ive never had issues ever with a timing belt component no matter the brand. No manufacturer wants to pay an engine I guess.

@@Veikra good to know. Same goes with their control arms?

@@ChrisStylles Rubber can perhaps not last as long. Ive installed skp on both cars and testing them. I put rubber grease to keep salt off the rubber and so far so good. I also put them on a D4 years ago and still good. In a perfect world id put oem, but even oem arent very durable (very cold here then very hot, not good for rubber)

@@Veikra i went with skp as well for the upper arms but the rubber went a year later but ball joint was still in good and functional so just changed the bushings to Meyle HD and is a vast improvement. Thanks for the info. Keep doing those videos

@@ChrisStylles Did you do trim height adjustments when you installed them the first time? If you tighter those arms with no weight on the wheels they get torn

Oui, le 3.7L BFL de meme année partage presque que tout apart la cylindré.

Please elaborate

at 365 000km and 3years ago prior to this video

Thank you I asked it because mine was changed 60oookm and 6 years ago and audi says me 120oookm or 10 years to change it what do you think about this please thank you

@@Lavagetextile It only takes 5mins to inspect the belt on a A8. I inspect ALL the a8 belts that comes for other services. 160 000km is still safe, they are super long belts so the wear is distributed. Expect 160 000km if not too old and inspected for any signs of cracks. The quicker you rack up the kilometers, the longer it last. Case in point, this car in the video.

Thank you very much 🫡

Excellent video

s8 alternatve is the m6.....seehow that turned out with that bmw v10. And this car is the v8 a8l only. v10 is timing chains