yes he did

Thank you Joe!

I bought the ECS brand and mine was a bit sloppy and i used the vise grips to make sure it doesn't move and i strip the Polydrive bolt. what brand do you use with different results? Do Share

I had one that had play as well, I replaced it to avoid any problem that might have occurred from it. I would recommend the same for you.

Your correct, it will make a snaping sound from the cams rolling past the lobes and the valve springs springing it back around.

@@KwinyB so this is normal? Ive never heard this on any other motor so loudly. Thanks for your help and reply I very much appreciate it.

Yes ARP will have different torque specifications and possible different torque patterns

I think you also put sealant on some of the grooves that aren't supposed to have sealant on them. Specifically the short ones next to the integrated bearings and one squiggly one at the front of the head. These may be oil galleys but I'm not 100% sure on that. I'm also wondering if using Dirko grey was wise because if those are oil galleys, even if you don't fill them in, some of the overflow sealant could have gotten in there and clogged them which wouldn't happen with the Audi anaerobic sealant as it would wash away. Check out this post. www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=869906 Not trying to be critical just passing on what I'm learning. This is a great video and I used the info to replace my tensioner but now I'm a little bit worried about the sealant aspect and contemplating taking it all apart again.

Interior of head was cleaned yes, I used diagram from Audi manual on where to apply sealant.

I've done this job multiple times this exact way, zero issues. You will not have any problem. No sealant was put on any surface of cam journal. This is the proper way to apply

@@KwinyB That's good to hear. I've read several accounts of people using Dirko for this job successfully but the use of anaerobic sealant does also make sense.

@@texadelphia1808 I used regular permatex sealant that was oil resistant and just made sure to be extra careful not to gunk it up and use just enough. Any stuff that oozes out just wipe up immediately and I also let mine sit over-night to cure.

Stock cams right now, once dynoed gonna swap cams with Rs and dyno again and see differences

Thanks man, it's called Dirko Grey

@@KwinyB thanks but I have one more question do i need a special socket for the ARP bolts

Yes you do, most are arp hardware with me 12 point

Take your timing belt off, or let the tension off from it. Mark your TDC points

I believe mine is the same way. In order to get my intake side head bolts out, I had to get a ratched on the cam sprocket and rotate it slightly to get the reliefs to line up right. Otherwise, there was a lobe engaged and it would just rotate it back to where I couldn't get the bolt out. So with the lobe engaged there will be a valve open.

You would have to contact them, their is only one cam seal. The cam and crank seals are almost identical, maybe the kit included crankseal or they mistakenly gave you 2 cam seals.

Foriegn Federation I bought the front crank seal from the dealer. The cam shaft I installed on the exhaust side. I think they gave me an extra one. Considering there isn’t another spot for another cam shaft seal lol. Now I just need the end cap for the intake side was that all that is needed on the intake side is the end cap ?

Correct seal goes on exhuast side, cap goes on intake side

Foriegn Federation thank you for explaining it . First time rebuilding a motor and want to eliminate as much problems as possible. Thanks again!

The extra seal is for your brain since after doing this job it will dripping out your ear.

@Hitman I said nothing about valves being bent; even though how the head is sitting on the table he is probably putting pressure on the valves that are open. Well, you need to hold the cams...taking pliers/vicegrips to hold them tends to scratch them which is kind of weak. Also the rotating cam tool makes it nice and easy to install the chain. See how he struggles? He is using a steel crowbar to rotate which can scratch the cam. Why take the chance, and be a half ass, when the correct tools are cheap! The best investment I ever made was the high quality locking tool around $100.

@Hitman thanks for your help

Check valves and piston

Thank you

Yes only put in after griddle is torqued

@@KwinyB i just rebuilt my motor and head but that seal is leaking do you think i will be able to remove the old and put in the new one without pulling the griddle off? Hard to find other people who own Audi's that do their own work lol

@@brodyvanhoorn8363 you can only replace the cam seal when the griddle is torqued. If you put the cam seal in and then torque the griddle it will not seat right. Always put cam seal in AFTER.

@@KwinyB thank you will try today very helpful

All the valves do not open up at the same time, after chain and tensioner is install did you rotate the cams come back to TDC and verify the head is still in TDC?

Kwiny B I did not do that after timing the cams to make sure it rotated freely. Here’s a link to a video I just posted showing the issue. Thank you for your help! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZmEqcSL3Zeyo3k.html

Should I take the chain off and re-align the cams & timing?

@@Erick-uo8wt are both cams turning together and coming back to TDC? Am I seeing that right?

Kwiny B yes, they are both spinning together. when I line up the crank pully to the TDC mark on the engine, both cam lobes are also pointing up to the TDC marks on the head. Just not sure if I messed up somewhere when timing the cams, for the intake cam to clank every time it rotates.

I did the 18th and 19th pins and my intake cam wasn't anywhere near where it needed to be :/ I also noticed the pin on the exhaust sprocket is farther away from the timing mark where mine is only about half a tooth away.

First time I recorded i was not paying attention and did put silicone in them, did remove before final assembly, thats why I displayed the diagram.

Kwiny B ahhh, gotcha. thanks. I have watched this vid again and again because I am using video as a guide (doing same job for first time, have cyl head off as well) .. and then recently saw somebody on an Audi B7 forum post a pic with it all gasket’d up.. but did not fill those channels and was confused.

Ahh gotcha yea, I just didn't have the time to re-record the part and edit so I out the diagram overlay to follow that.