Thanks for the note!!

Thank you for the comments - check out episode 2...I ended up replacing the camshaft

@@ETMotorsports Yeah, but you have to place bushings in the camshaft housings of the head. Otherwise, line pressure is lost there. 💁🏻‍♂️

Hola Jeronimo. From Uruguay. Same problem. Gone through the entire sequence of problems. I have actually bouhght a new intake shaft and that is my last chance. Tell me what kind of bushings do you have in Argentina to locate on the housings? Probably I will find the housings in bad conditions, but these are alluminium. Do you handle any kind of bearings to be able to rectify and add to original diameter?@@jeronimolobos7648

I agree the needle's are part of the rockers ! The ball under the schreen in bridge should be there i think ! But since i work on the 1.8 l 2015 jeta i dont remember seeing a ball in it under screen onless someone before me pulled out at timing chain drivve ! Other than that After i put new timing chain on my jetta after i done and started up the yellow and red oil lite sembol stays on i wonder if that ball is missing at check valve is my problem !??? Oh I ought Car on Auction w bad engine thats why i realy dont know the history of the car . I tought the job will e ease change the bad bent valves , but i gess the surface on cam and head cover accured from screen ! ???

I agree. The roller in the oil pan is from the cam follower. A rocker or finger follower failed. The tappet shaft pulled out of the roller and the needles went everywhere. Oil pressure controls the follower contact against the cam. I suspect that assembly is in pieces. This results in uncontrolled oil flow hence low oil pressure. Like a garden hose with no nozzle versus garden hose with a nozzle. You have to remove the valve cover. Why no misfire? Maybe due to four valves per cylinder. Great video though. Especially for us DIYers.

Are you a VW tech by chance? If so, I had a question. I just did a valve job on my wife’s 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI engine with all new chains, tensioners, guides, water pump, Tstat, injectors, tune up, coils, etc. Was working fine except for the lean code. Replaced the PCV valve, same thing. Then the PO341, POO11 & POOOA showed up. All cam timing issues. Plus. I started having cam phaser noises after the engine warms up at about 1300 RPM no load in park. If I disconnect the phaser solenoid, no noise. So I put a used phaser solenoid in it. Funny thing. The lean code disappeared (I guess that’s where the vac leak was/is), but the cam phaser code issues are still there. So. I’m going to start with the oil pressure solenoid & go from there. I hope the stupid phaser itself isn’t defective because that would mean having to pull the whole front of the engine back apart. Any ideas?

100% common issue especially when through a cam correlation error

@@stevejohnson29 what did you find in this? I have similar symptoms after a timing job and replacing all the sensors

Check out episode 2 :)

I have similar problem, like you. With my vw scirocco 2.0 tsi. can you share me how to fix it. When i disconnect the selenoid which adjust camshaft, it have no noise!! Thanks you very much!!

I still need to pull this piece of crap apart again. I’m doing it next weekend. Going to replace the intake cam & phaser.

@@stevejohnson29 I’m an Audi master tech, if you did a timing job the spool valve that’s reverse threads on the intake cam HAS to be at 10nm (I think I can’t remember) if it’s too tight it will throw intake cam over retarded codes

Wow. That’s not much torque. I’ll check that. I kinda doubt that’s the problem. But. I’ll try. I’ve been driving the thing for several months now. I leave the cam solenoid unplugged. Makes like a rattling noise when I’m just barely giving it throttle. 1/16 or less. But. As soon as I go to 1/8 or 1/4 throttle, the turbo kicks in & the rattle noise goes away. Pretty sure it’s not from the bottom end. I have a feeling the cam phaser is jacked after 105k. So. I’m going to order an intake cam and throw it in with a new valve and solenoid. We’ll see if that fixes it. It doesn’t have any low oil pressure problems. (No oil light).

NO, it would be knocking at idle and metal shavings in the oil pan.

@@ETMotorsports also that debris in the oil pan was from the timing chain guides getting chewed up from a stretched chain with a tensioner that was maximum travel and could no longer keep it tight. I think they caught the chain just before it broke because if it would have snapped the entire top end would have been rebuilt. Or perhaps it did snap and it was rebuilt but you can almost always tell if the motor had been tore apart. Really good video BTW!

Intake cam or exhaust cam? Which one do you think needs to be replaced?

@@ETMotorsports can you please send me the link of that episode,I scroll through but did not see it Thanks alot

Episode two is for mercedes,was wondering if you know anything about 2009 audi a4 2.0T Thanks.

let's for a second assume that the dealer or any other shop could actually diagnose this - the intake cam (which ended up being the problem) replacement at the dealership would run you well over 3k with the camshaft alone costing $1200USD+...add on top of that the timing work, balance shafts etc. you're in for an astronomical bill and that doesn't account for any diagnostic time, which believe me will be A LOT... Seeing as doing this myself, I was able to get the car actually fixed for less than about $2000 including all new oil pump, complete timing job, two new balance shafts, intake cam, cam bridge etc. and on top of that I actually learned a lot about this job....so sorry mate - neither this nor any of my other cars have ever been to the dealership, and on the rare occasions I've gone to actual expert shops, I've had to finish the jobs myself because of how little most mechanics do in terms of diagnostics... Unfortunately no dealer or shop out there can afford to spend any actual time diagnosing complex problems...you bring these symptoms to a shop the immediate answer will be "oil pump"...$1000+ later you've got a new oil pump and the exact same issue...that's then followed up by "balance shafts" - add another $2-3k in parts and labour to do balance shafts and timing chains and you still drive away with a car with the same exact problem...oh wait - what if we did the intake camshaft? add another $2-3k cause why not...not everybody wants to throw useless dollars in other people's pockets...some of us like to learn :)

I have the exact same issue going on with mine right now so thank you for the video and actually figuring out what the issue actually is . Now I can decide if I want to deal with it or not. Awesome job and again ty

sorry for the slow reply...this is the set I used: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IUCONNY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 but like I said in the video there's really no point in opening these up - you can't service them

that's what the general consensus is but I didn't find any mechanical issues with the motor when I pulled everything apart...the balance shafts and cams showed some wear but nothing to point to a failed bearing or anything like that...to be honest the metal bits in the oil pan remain unexplained unless the previous owner changed the head after failure but didn't bother to clean the oil pan...

same here, I have already replaced my high and low oil pressure sensors as well as oil pump. problem still persists

Rotate or open?

Hmm there's nothing you can really do taking the phaser apart... if it's bad it's bad... so the phase is measured with the cam and crank position sensors so if your timing is correct and the magnet is new then really the only thing I can think of is the cam... yes that's really the phaser itself but you can't fix it so you'd have to get a new cam... that's the only thing that finally fixed my issues But what actual problem are you dealing with?

Did you see the second episode?

@@ETMotorsports Appreciate the reply. I had swapped the cam sensor for the old as part of troubleshooting and just put the new on. Magnet is now responding again and the Phase position Bank 1 intake went to 6.9. I also did another compression test and it looks perfect like no bent valves and consistent pressure with no leak down. I watched your second video and am going to grab a cam phaser, think I may have the same issue. Oil pressure has been consistent from what I have ran, but no idea what the last guy experienced. Great video, thanks for taking the time and being thorough.

@@ETMotorsports great video! Thank you

@@ETMotorsports p0016 code and when I read with the scanner at idle it’s showing phase 1 @ 6 degrees even though everything related to the VVT is new and timing is perfect

@@ETMotorsports I have the same problem.low oil pressure in idle. Also replaced oil pump & all sensors & the bottom solenoid. I’ve also encountered plastic debris in oil pan, turned out to be the exhaust balance shaft sleeve that melted out, replaced it with a new one & melted again so I removed it completely as I don’t think will hurt anything. No solution for me but the car seems to run fine except for the annoying warning & cam crank correlation code. I’ll run it till it dies.

I really think that some oil passages are clogged due to all the melted plastic debris.

@@ETMotorsports oil gets thinner at higher temperatures. Mine starts throwing the warning when it reaches normal temperature. I doesn’t do it when cold. I’ve also tried oil pressures boosters from Lucas products with no luck.

@@ETMotorsports I think in the passageways in the block, since that’s where the plastic sleeve melted. There are oil ducts all around the balance shaft that could’ve gotten clogged. I really hope someone proves me wrong & it’s something simpler than that.

Its my understanding that thinner oil means lower oil pressure, but I could be wrong.

hey - if you watch the second episode, I actually fixed it by replacing the intake camshaft...0341 is an intake cam code...what happens is the intake cam phaser gets screwed up and starts losing oil...you see the CEL at 1100rpm because that's when the adjustment starts and it's not working as it should causing the oil pressure and the code

Hey you can see episode 2 - I had to replace the intake cam... it wasn't too bad

@@ETMotorsports im thinking or replacing my pan, but my transmission 6mm alum bolts ........ I spent 5 hrs to drill 4 out without damaging the threads ........ I don't feel like going through that again. thanks anyways.

The 3 aluminum bolts are only for the magnet on the intake cam. I've seen steel ones there too. They could have been swapped to oil pan by mistake. Same size.

@@ETMotorsports

it says EPC check as an error and that there is no synchronization in the gas distribution shaft and ep2 I don't know what it means

​@@ETMotorsports Hi Emil, I'm eager to watch next episode, I have an Audi A4 Allroad 2.0 TDI 2014 230.000 Km, with Low Oil Pressure Warning on idle only after the oil gets around 100 deg.C. I already changed the Low Oil Pressure Sensor, oil and oil filter, the oil pomp reconditioned. I really felt your happiness when you said that you had solved the issue and after that was the opposite feeling. I have the same feeling that the issue will be solved only by changing the camshafts, the camshaft bridge, head cover or the entire head engine. Please take a look at the next YT video which I recently found: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b7JnfLmYzb-qp6M.html. Congrats mate for the great job you are doing. Please do not forget to load the new episode related to this issue! Best Regards! Iulian

What about a stretched balance shaft chain

@@ETMotorsports i received a code 1000km before, code was P0011 about over-advanced timing, the timing in aligned all good, the only thing i did it was changing the oil then appeard the error code, i cleaned the solenoid valve and didn't appear again but have the same symptoms , even some missfire when i accelerate, fuel pomp very good, injectors very good, on 015 and 016 no missfire, on 140 all good.i thing is a little bit advanced my camshaft intake or the variator with that pin got some throubles...

Remove 100%

@@ETMotorsports and keep its outer cover or no need

@@ETMotorsports u r realy great man amazing work from u ive watched ur second video thanks really

@@ETMotorsports and my last question is it better to remove balance shaft screens or keep it sorry if i bothered u bro

@alisolieman4437 no bother at all... I'd take the balance shaft screens too... the only one I would leave is the vacuum/fuel pump screen because it's also a reducer... check it the second episode - I go into a lot of detail on the whole oil system

Hey - go see the second episode - I fixed the exact problem you're describing... the EPC and oil issue comes down to intake cam shaft

@@ETMotorsports that one will be next after I will finish with this video. Thanks again and God bless you!

@@ETMotorsports and btw, your face expression at 44:35 I feel you bro, I ended up in that situation way too many times with this engine, exhausting is just a sweeet way to put it.

@@ETMotorsports replace the intake cam. Hopefully It should resolve the epc and vct issues.

1.8 tsi bzb stop oil pressure engine off owners red summer is on, only engine cooling temperature is 95° and 104° is on. It does it when it approaches 2000 rpm. There is no problem when it is cold, please help

Thanks...thats what I think my prob.is too

@@ETMotorsports Im working on a 2011 , basically same shit motor. new chain , pump, waterpump, and serviced , only 84k on it , its throwing a coolent performance fault, any good tricks of fixing this ? plus we're trying to pass emissions on this shit too, we have Catalyst Mon check left in the readiness that never sets status to OK . It's just reporting N/A . we rock a 3 inch Race Cat on it so that shouldn't be a problem, plus new sensors upstream / downstream.

yeah in this case it seems replacing the intake cam is the best way forward

Hey here's the set but there's no point in ordering it - there's nothing you can do to fix the phaser if you open it RAM-PRO 9Pc Torx Star 5 Point,... www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IUCONNY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

@@ETMotorsports i have only taken off the cam magnet to verify the problem. Im going to remove the cambridge aswell and look for a cause. Im also going to replace my oil pump @2k rpms im a bit below spec and my oil light flashes above 2k rpms and when warm. I hope to fix the p0341 and then replace the oil pump and see if it fixes oil pressure.

@@ETMotorsports i have a vw cc. 2.0 tsi ccta. Symtoms: oil pressure below spec at 2k rpms, noise in valve cover and found vvt solenoid plunger stuck out. Whats on my list to do is replace the cambridge and vvt system. Then drop pan to look for oil pressure issues. Any advice is highly appreciated

@@ETMotorsports also im inexperienced. But would clearance in the engine bearings cause low oil pressure up higher in vvt for an example. Causing my issues? Ig the oil pump would be on a whim.. i was hoping a revised pump would add more pressure and get rid of the light. I know if my bearings are bad i might aswell take the entire thing apart but i was hoping to avoid it. Edit: all my mechanics have assumed engine bearing failure with how the oil pressure is acting. Im probably going to remove my oil pump after cambridge/vvt job is done, inspect it and see if it works good.

@@ETMotorsports i did watch both your videos on this problem. The first mechanic to do work on it was not experienced with these engines, but they replaced the balance shafts and timing components. Only reason i went to this mechanic first was because he was doing the job for parts only. My motor is on time now and had a brand new chain. So all im really worried about is the oil pressure now because i know it can make the timing job pointless since tensioners ect work on oil pressure.

@@ETMotorsports having had my balance shafts replaced already, i was hoping to find the oil pressure issues in my oil pump or cambridge/ cams. The plan was to do the cambridge job first. I was gonna look at my cambridge when i replace my vvt actuator. After that i was gonna look at the pump.

I think it's called a security torx 5 star - I picked it up from Amazon

@@ETMotorsports intake cams r just problematic in this b8's...find intake cam too lose(plays), replaced without new Cambridge drives perfect for few months then hesitation & flashing epc light came back.. Opened facer only to find new cam plays again. Replaced Cambridge, intake cam + facer. Drives like a magic.

@@ETMotorsports yes it was not locking anymore.. I just didn't take a video but it was bad. The pieces of screen find them at hp pump..

@@ETMotorsports ya eish..now battling with the high pitch whining when I accelerate..the higher the revs the higher that pitch comes..any idea wer is could be from?

@@ETMotorsports thought as much..will lift it then get someone gives it some gas .. hopefully it's not my cvt box.checked alternator and all front pulleys, tensioner,a/c & p/steering pump

Cvt Drivetrain whining confirmed ...

Hey don't remove the screen from the vacuum pump - it's not just a screen - it's a nozzle so it reduces the flow of oil to the pump... if you remove it you might have a problem with the oil pressure... check out the second video - I talk about that

@@ETMotorsports can u send for me the video link please

@@ETMotorsports thanks for reply i always watch ur videos but yesterday i removed the filter from the vaccum pump i hope to never damage my motor

@@alisolieman4437 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hLCga5iht9fWnWw.html

2 sensors? You mean oil pressure valves?

Sensors. You mentioned 2 sensors in this engine.

Did you see the second episode? I go into details about the system and the epc misfire at 1200rpm

@@ETMotorsports nop.. I didn't see it.. let me check it

@@ETMotorsports you have the same port of oil whit a screen on the vac pump like on the cam bridge if the port is clog you will have the same warning for pressure drop on the head

I am trying to understand your theory. What nut are your referring to? Thanks for your reply.

@@obieoberstar There are two tensioners, chain tensioner, and cam tensioner (right below it) for exhaust and intake. Those intermediate cams (located on the engine block) have also the oil screens just like the bridge those get clogged. The cam pressure tensioner chain wears abd stretches, the tensioner pushes oil but if there is slack in the chain, there is no resistance to read pressure, and that is where the low oil pressure happens, besides the clogged screens from the intermediate I and E cams.

i'm just seeing your post but where are these screens located..i have a ccta vw 2.0l 2012

Hey brotha. I got some fluctuation in the acceleration needle Also at low RPM like 1500RPM sometimes it feels like someone slowly pushes the brake. Any idea?

Also brings the rocker arms into question. They have needle bearings as well.

I'm not sure it's oil temp that's responsible - it's brittle plastic that just falls apart

Sorry mate - that's 100% wrong... the chain guard has nothing to do with the oil pressure... if it was restricting the chain in any way you'd have much more serious issues... this was fixed wth a new intake cam - you can see it in the second episode

Tengo el mismo problema ya reparé el motor completo todo nuevo y sigue la presión de aceite baja ya cambie la bomba los balanciadores los casquillo del motor los de bielas anillos ,y sigue igual cuando se calienta baja la presión del aceite a 10 libras y después sigue bajando a 4 0 5 libras y hay es cuando prende la luz del aceite. No e cambiado el faciador de admicion..por fin cual fue él problema si lo encontró..😊

Where can I find your video?

I'm in this situation and the last thing I want is to go down that rabbit hole of replacing part after part hoping one will fix it. However, at least he's doing something the hard work of putting the video together so the rest of us can learn from it.

Tommy I am lost for words. This man has put in the time, patience, logic and rationale that even the average dealer tech will not do. I am thankful for his post and all that can be learned from it.