When reinstalling your lower intakes, hold the flaps partly open or they will be stick shut and give codes . And after they are seated, actuate the flaps and make sure they move freely

Just got done doing all of this to my 2012 S4. Very insightful and a GREAT reference guide. Can’t thank you guys/gals enough for these videos, parts selection, quick shipping, and great customer support. This is how a company should be operated.

These great videos separate you from the competition. You have a life long customer for both my VAG vehicles. Keep up the great work.

Great video nice and calm. I have been working on Mercedes and BMW for 24 years and occasionally I will get a client that will beg me to work on their audi or jag. Your video was helpfull and its nice to see an instructional by a real tech not a back yard boy tearing into a car with no knowlage. A+ Thanks again from Shane at California Mercedes and BMW in Fresno CA.😎 HAPPY MOTORING.

You did a phenomenal job with this video! Keep u the great work. This helped me a ton

They kinda gloss over the part at 15:22 where you pull the coolant pipe but it had me stuck for a while. There's two screws on the bracket in the back. The lower one is kind of unreachable but don't mess with that one. Just push the pipe out of the bracket sideways and then push it back and it comes right out :)

Good job on this video. Appreciate the work you put into it.

I started this video thinking it's a sunday morning DIY project. Heck! It'll take me 2 weekends just to gather/buy the tools and parts.

Great video! I've been waiting for this one.

Thank you very much for this video! Refered back a couple of times to find routing etc.

I'm following your process on my A7 and I must say, you have impaccable skill and patients, great job my friend🙂!

Thank You ! Awesome tutorial I have a 2011 Audi Q7 Premium and was able to follow your instructions

I have 114k miles on my 2014 A7 Prestige and have not changed water pump, PCV Valve, or Thermostat! None are exhibiting problems, but after that many miles in hot AZ, I am on borrowed time. I'm going to use this great video and the one for thermostat/water pump to tackle this weekend. I can't thank you enough for the great vids! Thanks also for the comments about the coolant pipe at 15:22

Thank you for this informative Video, I'm about to order my parts for my Audi A7 today.

Just did this job on my 2016 SQ5, thanks for this detailed video! The only snafu I had was in how to put back the fuel injector seals, I mistakenly thought they went on top of the injector rather than just underneath its top lip, so I had a but of a fuel spray when I tested :) I went and got new 3 seal kits and replaced the seals on the 3 injectors on the passenger side, no issues after that.

Love your 3.0t series of videos, very good instructions and detail. My PCV went bad and my symptoms were high vacuum on oil cap while running, leaking seals, and rough idle. all of those went away after pcv replacement. It's a good idea to do all of these maintenance parts at once because they are all under the supercharger.

Very good congratulations for your professionalism, Thank you👍

Great vid!! Can you guys do a Front and rear brake DIY next in the B8.5 ?!

Thank you guys for this vid it helped me out so much keep up the the great work

Excellent video tutorial.

Same process for a 2011 3.2 q5. I had to remove an intake runner as well. Very easy!

Great video I was able to replace mine with this video.

Thanks guys! Very informative. Is there a comparison between revisions H and AB?

Thank you very much for this video, I have an Audi Sq5 with the same issue, going to try it myself.

Thank you. Doing this on my 2015 q7. I need to check out more of your videos. You have one on an intake cleaner to remove carbon build up on back of valves??

Looking at the blueprints for the PCV and oil separator and thinking about the FSI carbon build up problems. Wouldn't be just easiest to plug the intake and blower ports for this whole squid thing and let the nonreturn PCV line just hanging/ideally connecting it to longer hose and letting it ventilating on the road.....? would that be possible? Once it would do blasting after the engine should be good fer ever, right?

For anyone stuck at 15:00, what I did was grab a regular Allen key set and find one that fit the T30 well enough to crack the torque on the bolt. After that I was able to unthread it by hand or just using a T30 screwdriver bit with my hand. Good luck all!

Great video! Definitely taking it to the Audi service center. Not something I have time to do.

Great job Tech!!!

Hi FCP if coolant spills when you remove the pcv, does that mean you have to change the oil too? As that coolant could mix with the oil?

That t-30 in the adjustable was a brave move 🧐 👍🏻👍🏻 Maybe a flexible attachment to the impact gun would elevate this issue in the future

GOD DAMN! I’m having that vaccum problem at the moment, didn’t realize I needed to change it that soon

got any moe info on the coolant vacuum tool you used? Thanks

Great video

Do not forget to make sure u put the injector O rings back mine fell off when I took the IM valve off and didn’t know till I found it in the pcv valley area glad I caught that before reasembly

Would strongly recommend laying a shop towel over, or gently stuffing parts of a shop towel into the intake ports.

Very good job, thanks

So some advice and explanations ideally someone will pin this: 1. buy some sythetic grease (permatex) for gasket lube, buy the narrowest bit holder you can for a t30, buy 6 or at least 3 injector gasket sets (with green plastic stopper, mine were brittle af) and o-ring yes theyre 50 bucks - but you own a high end worth it sports car its okay. Also make sure you have a torque wrench that goes down to 9 ft/lbs or your regional equivalent, a really good set of hose picks (vim are good) and a nice small to large assortment of pry bars (mine are the 3 set from Craftsman) 2. If you have a stock airbox then you may have to remove the "snorkle" between the air box and front trim using the 2 body trim clips then take that plastic piece out so you can take the belt off (it makes room for your long wrench). Dont do what I did and pry the wide plastic part off -.- which broke them. you can reach under them from the sides and pop the middle up and out releasing the wide trim bits. Off to my guys for 2 trim bits. 3. dont try and pull the tab on the position sensor just use 2 picks and pull the 3 parts of the tab off the connector so it can slip off dont bother with the grey locking tab, slide your pick between the plug and the 2 black and 1 grey tabs then move them away from the connector while pushing down on the head of the connectors lip - wont break the grey tab like i did but came right off (this works brilliantly for both flapper bodies). Also for those grey tab pull and pinch connectors, sometimes they just get stuck so I wedge a pick tip between the body of the connector and the bottom of the grey tab on the front of the connector which is usually enough to unstick it. 4. Also those flapper assemblies are hard as fuck to get off just disconnect like he did here and pull up and wiggle, lots of wiggling I also GENTLY pried on it after much sweat tears and swearing pried from the valve cover side like barely and in mulitple spots - always be wiggling. 5. vaccum your intake and then cover and keep covered as often as possible 6. you can just remove the air hoses that are attached to the PCV unit from the heads really easily so you can reduce the chance of breakage 7. For that FUCKING coolant pipe (lol, it is a good design though once on wont come out) over the Valve body make a thin metal shim, twist the pipe to slip the shim between the moulded bolt hole and connector bracket then with a towel around the pipe near the block side gently put a pair of pliers either vice or regular (no needle nose) around the bend down and with a pry bar braced against the metal block at an angle pry against the pliers - this should be enough to pop off the coolant pipe so that you can manually push it back (basically like cracking any bolt, once the hard bit is done you can do it manually). 8. When inserting the flapper valve back on make sure the gaskets are lubed with syn grease (permatex is fine) and make sure they're on the nozzles to your injectors otherwise you'll have a bad time. Ideally you'd take other flapper body off and replace those gaskets as well as the passenger side sure they're 50 bucks a piece but piece of mind right. Also he quickly mentions it but it needs repeating MAKE SURE YOUR FLAPS ARE FULLY OPEN WHEN PUSHING THE BODY DOWN and that when the flapper body is down that you can see the metal baffle in each intake that the flap rests against. if unsure try actuating the flaps if they do not go down then you have inserted incorrectly and you'll throw codes along with power issues. 9. If you have a fuel leak after testing by opening the door it will not do it again (or at least mine didn't) I talked to my shop and disconnecting and reconnecting the batter MIGHT work but as a VAG auto owner I have a rosstech aka VCDS so just went into the engine module and hunted around looking for a fuel pump test or in my case a "fuel pump electronics test" you turn it on and it primes continously so make sure you stay close to turn it off because you have to turn it off manually in VCDS 10. lube your air intake gaskets lightly 11. make sure that your double ended vaccume hose the U shaped one is up and to the side so it can come around the back of the super charger 12. I found it really easy to do the coolant hoses when the bracket at the front was attached so kinda get the ones on the super charger aligned then put the bolt through the bracket and align it with the bolt then tighten - easy peasy that way. 13. def use a vaccume bleeder for the coolant super easy and you can check for leaks. Schwaben @ ECSTUNING makes a decent one for 75ish USD that works with an air compressor or hand pump 14. when doing the belt grab a pry bar or two (I have a 3 set of craftsman that are perfect). Use one to put light tension on the loose end by running through it across the rad and block (its not tight just keeps it from dangling so you can use the longer one to nudge the belt back onto pulleys (worked seamlessly). Then use the short one to hold the belt if you dont have a long ratcheting wrench (i didn't) so I held the belt it its barely on position using that pry bar and repositioned the wrench on the tensioner to get the needed amount of slack to gently use the wide pry bar end to work the edges over the pulley - worked really well. 15. before starting make sure to recant the litany to the Omnissiah and offer praise to it's machine spirit (if you know you know haha)

Thank you so much ❤

Is it possible to replace directly the pcv valve and didnt touch original oil separator?

So is there any way of putting a catch can on the b8.5? to help reduce the carbon build up?

is there any recommendations for flushing the coolant out of the oil system other than just putting fresh oil in it? Would a product like motor flush be a good solution?

Just ordered the kit…about to do it once it arrives, hopefully my car makes it til then 😅

Hey fcp I have a question! I see on this car there is a cold air intake like I have on mine, do you have any suggestions for what I should do for my secondary air hose?

u are that best thansk for this video thanks for help

We ordered the full kit from FCP, followed this video step by step and have code P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1. Now we get to tear it all back down and do it over again.

What is the part number for the coolant pipe O-ring? Also on a 2013 do the injectors need to be removed? Thanks

How did you get that coolant return pipe off? I am stuck here....

Great video forgot to mention on both sides injector low intake you have to open by hand the flaps before you seat both sides injectors or you will get a code for intake manifold stuck open , Other from that great video .👍🏽✅

Is it possible for the pcv to send coolant in one cylinder or would it be all cylinder ?

hello friend - I have a 2010 s4 full apr catalogue . I just hit 70k miles and today i started the car and the start up was rough as well as the idle until it got warm. at a stop sign there was a bad smell and a very light amount of grey smoke coming from the exhaust. any ideas? no cel and car didnt overheat.

Ideally you should recommend before doing this job to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car and let it die or let it crank for a little while longer. That way the fuel lines can have it's pressure reduced from the dangerous high pressure it might be primed at. Then you won't have the issue of the line being primed by opening the door.

I have the Audi A4 B8 TFSI 2010 with the black top PCV. Can I use the upgraded white top PCV?

I need to change oil filter housing on Q5 3.0t. Will I need to take out the supercharger? Or in q5, do I have enough space?

Replaced Pcv with aftermarket(autozone) one,no more whistle noise,but strong vacuum still there!

If FCP is still reading these posts, I have a question. I replaced the PCV valve at the start of 2022 due to coolant leaking into the engine valley (not from water pump or thermostat which I had replaced earlier). By the end of 2022, I checked the suction of the oil filler cap due to code P052E00 and the suction was very high. I returned the part in warranty and replaced it to find no difference. Doing some research, I found that I should have also replaced the crankcase breather hose. So I then replaced that. I also replaced the connector pipe between the supercharger and the PCV valve as well as the gaskets between the supercharger and the intake guide valve housing. It's still throwing that code. I thought that these were the only parts causing that code. If I hook a clamp up to the oil filler cap and attach a luggage scale, it shows about 5 pounds force to break it free, which I read is on the high side. Does something have to get coded at the dealer for a new PCV valve? I thought it was all strictly mechanical. One other question... at 4:17 in the video you mention removing the connector to the Hose Evap. Well mine were on really tightly due to that hose degrading over time so I removed it at the little black canister that the house connects to. Unfortunately I broke the end off of it. I taped it all up and it drove but I'd like to replace it but strangely Audi doesn't show that part in their schematics. Do you know what part that is and does FCP sell it and or the hose itself? Is it hollow or did something maybe fall out when I broke it? Like if it's a check valve. Thx. BTW, this video is great. I can now do this job practically blindfolded.

I have a 2015 s5 3.0tfsi which needs an intake manifold potential air leak identified with engine management light. Quoted 4.5 hours of labour just to strip and investigate. Will it really take this long? Or is the dealer pulling a fast one?

Will a bad pcv unit cause coolant to mix with oil

Loved the explanation. I just changed the crankcase valve on my 2017 Audi Q7 3.0t. After starting up the engine lite came on and a P2014 code came up. Any recommendations? Thanks

Is this pct valve the same for Audi Q5 3.2 engine or different pvc. Valve

my pcv and cats went at the same time on my b8. ive always wondered if my pcv went first and i didnt notice and driving with it caused the cats to melt

Looks like you guys didn't include footage on reinstalling the hoses underneath? 😂 hope ppl have common sense on that one. Great videos! Really helped clear things up for me.

Can a bad pcv cause an oil leak that is significant or possibly the oil valley pan maybe cracked? Have a leak but seems like it coming from inside engine but cant tell where. Was told it could be one of these 2 parts.

FCP euro are there any differences with the A6 C7 and B8.5 (your title) in terms of 3.0t engine? How long is the job to do on this particular model, PM service?

If I’m putting an engine from 2013 S4 into 2011 S4 B8 - do I need the PCV valve with a part number for 2011 S4 (because ECM is programmed for that) or I do need the one for 2013 S4 B8.5?

Any help is appreciated i replaced my PCV due to coolant in my supercharger valley after installation I did an oil change I drained half a cup of clean coolant, oil is just black not mixed with coolant oil cap looks clean no milkshake at all I cough the issues early i pressurized the cooling system for 30 min only dropped half a psi is coolant in oil one of the pcv symptoms or is it a blown head gasket Thanks

Do I have to change oil after replacement pcv valve? I have read on internet, that there is possible that druing replacement the water may mix with oil ?

Is there a part number for the cold air intake on this vehicle? I realize it's an older vid, but figured I'd ask.

The work is not easy. 5 hours to uninstall. No breaks, with assistance of good lights with all necessary tools handy.Expecting 3 hours to put back everything together. Things I learned /did other than the video 2015 Q5 S ( q5 has more room in the engine bay to work with) 1. Took out fuse for fuel pump (2nd row 25amp driver side box) 2. Drained coolant before anything else 3. Someone pointed out 15:22 mark . Another hose needs to come out to access the single screw on metal bracket to remove plastic pipe 4. Should not have removed screws from right side injectors assembly Be patient. It all works out. Saved myself 2000 dollars. 🎊

With my supercharger off, what other replacements can I do?

You guys are the master! I have done the same but i forgot to put back the cover at 28:48 ( between the pcv valve and supercharger) is it okay or should i put it back .. please advice

Well I replaced the PCV valve but it still has high vacuum. A post on Audizine said that the PCV house should be replaced. I looked at FCP and there are 2. Any idea how I can test which one is bad? Or is one prone to failing? I'm going on a big trip soon and need to fix it. Thx

Is this the same for the 2010 A6 Quattro supercharger 3.0

Last comment haha maybe. I recommend replacing the gasket (ELRING 236060) that connects the oil filter canister to the engine when you do the PCV. Mine was leaking a LOT of oil. But buckle up its annoying to do.

I have a Porsche hybrid with same engine I get the fault p2279 intake air system leak do I need to change the pvc or does the pvc have normally different fault code

Is this pcv make coolant leak?

Ugh. I cracked a PCV breather hose changing valve cover gaskets due to an oil leak. I figure since I have to pull the supercharger to get to the hose that I might as well do the PCV (2013 car), but now I'm not sure. Still, great video. Thank you for sharing.

Nice job bro. Do you have to have a gasket underneath?

Cory/FCP! Thank you for the video. I had my customer order all parts for this job from you all. I've just completed it, about to bleed the coolant system. I've seen one guy crack the bleeders, and heater hose. Is that necessary with a vac bleed?

what is the labor time for this job?

Why do you have to undo the two coolant lines underneath the car? Is that not counterintuitive?

If I’m getting a code: P0456 “very small leak detected” Would this potentially be the PCV? If not, what could be the potential issue? And what is the severity of this issue?

Have a question . I have a A6 3.0ltr , just did the PCV replacement five months ago for oil consumption. Now the oil consumption has gone back up to the levels of the old PCV. Audi says my mechanic didn't do the ECM update and the new PCV isn't functioning correctly . My mechanic says the update doesn't do anything and I'm wasting money doing the update . Any thoughts as I don't want to go back to the mechanic and state the part was incorrectly installed ?????

Any chance you guys can do a video on installing a blind spot monitor system (mirrors and radars), is what Audi calls Side-Assist, on a car that comes without one?

20:49 what part number for the coolant pipe oring, gray one in video

00:32 sec what's that o ring part number, or does it come with the waterpump kit, i got a 2013 b8.5

Excellent video!!! Thanks very much. Can the fuel rail line be reused or does it have to be replaced? Any issues with leaks if it is reused?

Doing this for the second time this year. The PCV valve seems to have failed. Ugh. This time I bought the special 16mm tensioner tool from Harbor Freight for $20. Took no time at all, and I have an my knuckle skin. The first time took over 30 minutes, and my arms were all hacked up and most knuckle skin was gone. Definitely worth the twenty bucks. I do wish there was more filming of the tubes around the "neck" end of the PCV valve at the firewall end of the PCV valve. I think I may have incorrectly put a line under it that should have gone over it. I'll know soon enough. That was the only trouble area during attempt number one, other than the tensioner tool.

can you make a video change Oil seperator by audi s6/s7 rs6/rs7 4.0tfsi

@FCP Euro I bought your Ultimate Breather Kit, which comes with everything I need to change everything under the supercharger at once. I'm in the middle of reassembly on my 2014 S4. The engine crankcase breather hose is different, as I guess Audi added an electronic check valve where your plastic one is. Do you have a feasible workaround for this? The molded tubing is not coming off of the barbed fitting at the check valve, or I'd just swap hoses. The one on my check valve is cracked, and not reusable.I literally can make no further progress, so if anyone else reads this and has dealt with the issue, please advise. Thanks so much.

When diagnosing the PCV valve issue, how hard of a vacuum should be felt by hand over the engine fill port? Should there always be a slight vacuum felt or no vacuum?

Would you recommend disconnecting the battery so the fuel pump doesn't run when the door is open?

Really great tutorial but have a few complaints (maybe the B8.5 is different). There is one more electrical plug below the MAF sensor and two more vacuum lines attached to that plug. I spent 45 minutes wondering why the supercharger would not lift off!!!

very good video nice work 👍🏻 i have a question please what is the name of the pipe in the minute 15:40 or what is the part number

@pcveuro can you do a video for PCV replacement on 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T? Or, do you have any reference guides? Thank you

Another great video! I will be doing this at the same time I do my carbon cleaning. Can you post a link to the O-ring for the coolant pipe shown at 20:30?

Helo i have a S5 with cgw engine code witch pcv i need to buy ? Thanks

Is important to leave flaps open or closed before installing tumble housing ?

Alright, stupid question... I have a 2013 Q7 3.0 tfsi. Is this the same procedure? I am decent with cars, not a pro. Back in "the day" I swapped a 455 for a 350 in my rusted-out 72 Cutlass and replaced the cast iron intake for an Aluminum Edelbrock. I believe I can do this. I just want to make sure I get all the parts and info. Thank you!

How similar is this to a 2014 Audi A6 3.0t? Aren’t they the same engine?