I don't remember exactly but I don't think you can adjust that on the fly. You can adjust the level of each individual channel from the computer software and then control the master volume from the knob or phone app.

I guess you are right. Now that I think about it, once you add the power brick and software package there might be some other options in that price range. Anyway, don't get too concerned about the clicking noise. You won't notice it unless you have very efficient speakers. And it's only present when there is no music playing. If there is no music playing for like 10 seconds, the amp goes in some kind of idle mode and the clicking goes away completely.

​@@AudioJudgement @Glenn C On the other hand: Don't hesitate to contact the tech team! Ryan and Frank are really nice guys and they are willing to help whenever they can! So, if some of us DIY'ers ask them for a software update to get rid of this annoying click sound, I bet they will remove it.

I was hoping that Arylic was going digital from the MV Silicon BT/DSP chip all the way to the amplifier ICs, but if that's true why would there be op amps on the board and this noise you are experiencing? Most of these noise problems don't exist on 2 ch BT amp boards that utilize the differential outputs of the CSR or Beken bluetooth modules and the differential inputs of the class D amplifier chips.

They would also be well out of the price point market that Arylic is trying to market to. The amp modules they are using now are a GREAT compromise between sound quality and price. @William Su....do you have the Arylic 2.1 as well as a comparable Hypex module? I would love to see a small review of each comparing them the way you obviously have heard them already since you are making the above statement. If you haven't, how can you make the statement and maintain your integrity?

Depends on how it is used. My use would be a portable sound system with sub that runs on a 18V 5Ah power tool battery. Once you get past 100 watts plus, then the battery pack needs to be increased, weight/size goes up, cost goes up and so on. Don't forget the more power, the hotter it runs so the heatsink needs to be increased which then makes it larger, heavier, more expensive and so on. The board as it is now will run on automotive 12V (14.4) 18V power tool batteries or 24 volt DC power supplies. Flexibility for portable systems in key here, once you get past requiring over 100 watts total system draw--then things get much more complicated so I'm looking at Arylic for my 2.1 portable sound system with 4 ohm mains and a 4 ohm sub running at 18V. No worries about overheating the small board with the lower voltage so a good fit.

Unfortunately, that will take hours. If you do want to learn how to design crossovers you can check my courses on udemy.

@@AudioJudgement Ok, thank you

No, you can setup the crossover only from the desktop app.

@@AudioJudgement Thank you. Do you know any budget active crossover and what's mean electronic crossover? Can you make some videos about it? All the time some awkwardness with set up or just crazy money💸

@@AudioJudgement they make 7 and 10 inch Windows tablets that are just as mobile as any Android. You can also use any Windows mini pc or mini pc stick. The software is not restricted to only being used on a "desktop" computer. I have this amp (the 2.1) as well as ACPW in my vehicle. I am using a simple Windows 10, 64 bit mini PC that uses 12 volts DC as it's power source. I wish if a reviewer did not know the correct answer that they would simply say.... "I do not know for sure BUT I will find out if it can be." Man....this is so frustrating!

What I have in plan right now is a 4th order subwoofer and a pair of cheap floorstanding speakers. Probably the next project after these 2 will be the boombox.

OMG thank you for speaking up about this. This review could easily only be 10 mins long.