the problem is the people who need to see this are not watching.

When I taught my kids to drive, they were taught to do these basic checks before getting behind the wheel. Then once behind the wheel, I walked around the vehicle to show them blind spots (I am a motorcyclist). I also invested in a quality pressure gauge, as on a motorcycle a one psi change can make a difference.

Glad I'm not the only one fussy with tyre pressure.

I run my tyre pressure at 25% above standard setting. It's still below the tyre makers maximum pressure. I get excellent handling and even tyre wear. Ride quality is still acceptable, but you do feel more bumps. People should pay much more attention to their tyres. Good report, could save someones life!

A few years ago I parked next to a commodore with a flat rear tyre. Had a child seat in the back so walked across to the outdoor cafe where a mothers group was carousing. The driver of the vehicle said that when she leaves she would drive to the service station and put more air in it. Was able to convince her to call the NRMA (she was a member) to change the tyre by saying they could change it while she was still having coffee with her friends. With her attitude there was no way I was going to change it for her.

Tyres are usually the last thing most people think when they are driving. They will first buy some type of car freshener before checking the tyre pressure.

John wisely switched to O-Light a year ago, to be ready for anything. Then, he was indoors for a year and the O-Lights never failed, when he needed them. If I spend another year in this house, I can be pretty confident that no O-Lights will fail me, when I need them.

I did a defensive driving course over 25 years ago. Three things that have stuck with me are brake pressure in an emergency ( most cars never had ABS back then, seating position and hand position on the wheel and tyre pressures. They definitely make a difference.

The tyre monitoring systems are fantastic. My 16 yr old Jeep has it and it saved me in the Pilbara last Nov. I picked up a small metal spike and the system gave me the warning I needed to immediately look for a safe place to pull off a 100km/h road. 30 seconds after I had stopped the tyre was completely flat and the rim sitting on the road. The following month I was also alerted when I had a complete blowout just outside of Kununurra near the Ivanhoe ..... 44° and a storm approaching, gotta love that. I think tyres are overlooked by many. Great video with great info.

Yes, they are at the optimum pressure, checked them this morning - due to the extreme rain, I wanted to be sure. And I check them at every refuel, also. I even took the Subaru to work instead of the Ranger - I prefer the AWD over the extra "fording" depth.

I am 100% sure the pressure in my tires is optimum. Why? Because I follow your channel and you covered this subject before. Nice work dude!

You're absolutely right. A neighbour asked me to look at her Mini because she said it was "handling funny". It had run-flat tyres and there was no pressure in any of them when I checked. Nothing. 0psi. She had never checked them and the tyre warning light had never come on, so she didn't bother.

John, I agree with you 100% on this issue sir! Maintaining proper tire pressure is one of the simplest and easiest things a person can do to improve their safety on road.

John, I’m not generally a commenter on KZfaq. But that was the best lecture I’ve ever attended. Thank you.

Another few reasons why it pays to go 10-20% over: 1. If you are a bit inclined not to check the pressure very often then the period that you can go without checking and still remain at or over the specified pressure is increased. 2. If the servo pressure gauge is out of whack and tending to slightly overstate the pressure, by going 10% of so over you are still at least at the pressure specified by the manufacturer. If the servo pressure gauge is understating the pressure you can still afford the extra 10% and remain well under the specified maximum pressure of the tyre unless the servo gauge is totally stuffed. If it is stuffed you will probably realise that by how long it takes to get up to the "correct" pressure and how it feels when you drive off. 3. If you tend to not check the spare (if you have one) as often as the other tyres because it is so inaccessible, then you probably want to intentionally overinflate the spare when you do, so avoiding pulling out the spare when you really need it and finding it is flat or well under the required safe pressure that you need to continue your journey. The overinflation that you want might well be greater than the 10-20% of the other tyres and still be OK providing it is below the maximum pressure specified by the tyre manufacturer, and provided you take account of it possibly being greater than the other tyres if you put it on without being able to check the pressure.

Aircraft mechanic retired ex Air Force... so have OCD about the importance of tire pressures.

I'm telling you that they are. In Europe 1% of the people know that the car has tyres.

John great show, I must say sorry for any offhand comments in the past I have been in in a dark place but now help has been found, cheers Mate.

Great video. I've always done 20% less than the max rating on the tire. This has been in the same ranges that you recommended based on +20% the car manufacturer's recommendation. It's good to have confirmation I've been doing it right.

I was convinced this video was going to be a chiding for going over. Decades of owning/maintaining sports cars and 1/2 ton pickups (Murica!). 38 to 39 psi cold is what I settled on for all. Everything John states here matches my real world.

I ride a bicycle and I check the pressure everytime I ride. I also watched your original tyre pressure video from couple years back and have been doing the four corner pressure checks every other week. It always amazes people, when I tell them that the pressure on my tyres go down 0.1 Bar almost every fortnight. Then they check their tyres with my gauge and they're shocked.

I've argued with so many tire jockeys about this very topic because they always lower my pressure when I come in for free rotation. I have a compressor at home but it's still annoying that they won't listen to me. ...I came to this exact conclusion on my own by monitoring my wear but I've never heard anyone else say this out loud. Glad you did...

Yes, recommended Tyre Pressure plus 2 psi

Tires and brakes, the two most important thing on your car from a safety perspective. Great video!

So true, I bought my ute that was equipped with S****n tires that lasted only 2 years and half. The problem was they started to spit out the valves. Got myself stranded in the middle of deliveries. In short, I had to replace all 4. Keep up with the info. Keep safe, stay healthy 👍

Hey JC, greetings from the U.K. Special thanks from me for this particular video, and not for the reason you might think. It prompted me to go check my tyre pressures. Now I had 4 new Goodyear Asymmetric SUV tyres fitted to my F-Pace 900 motorway miles ago, at a national branded Auto chain specialising in tyres and brakes. Now before you take the proverbial, I know it’s a JLR but with Brexit and all, someone’s gotta buy something made in Britain, yeah? And it’s been great, so far... Anyway, I’m checking the pressures and dressing my nice new tyres, when I notice that the front offside locking wheelnut is proud of its recess. Well that’s not good, I thought, as I spun it twice with my fingers and it fell off the stud. Cue a change of underwear, followed by gathering the appropriate tools to check the rest. EVERY locking nut was loose. And I mean finger loose. Every other nut took an easy half turn of torque on the wheelbrace. The moral of my story is - trust no-one. Most tyre fitters will tell you to check your nuts after 50k’s or so. Some will even hand you a suitably coloured warning note to that effect, in order to indemnify themselves from incompetence. How many of us actually carry out that check? Not many I’m guessing. So my thanks to you are due because, had I not watched this video when I did, I might have suffered a calamity. Doesn’t bear thinking about really. I have written to the Head Office of this particular Tyre Fitting chain. Not to claim recompense, or cause trouble. Simply to make them aware. They have replied, promptly to be fair, and are investigating. They shall remain nameless, as the incompetence, or forgetfulness, of a single employee or team of employees, should be dealt with effectively but internally, in my view. And the jobs and careers of blameless employees should not be put at risk by adverse publicity. Keep up the good work. Subscribed about a year ago and really enjoy your content and sense of humour.

I have been driving for 52 years now and do a car check every saturday arvo ! All fluids and tyre pressure , I also keep my tyres 4-5 psi higher than the placard says. Good or bad, I am a Michelin fan and always buy that brand. Being a very conservative driver I typically get 100,000 km from a set, sometimes a little more. It works for me !

John as much as I enjoy your brand of humour, it was really rather refreshing to go back to information based content; more fact, less acerbic wit.

Weekend track day guy here. That 20% is right on the money. I haven't learned anything here, but everything you say is on par with what I have learned from personal experience. Most weekend racers seem to think that lowering pressure is the way to go because that's how drag race is done. It only lead to overheating tires.

I am old school country. I do a visual check of tyres as you walk towards car. Check pressure weekly, check wiper blades monthly. Oil and water each refill. Screen washer weekly in summer, (lots of bugs around). 34PSI all four tyres around town, 36 front 34 rear (FWD) on trips because I want some oversteer. On my club car 32 rear and 28 front (RWD and mid engine) John on ultra high performance rubber there are little triangles on the sidewall and the idea is to adjust pressure so the wear touches the point of the triangle. Those guides are also on R spec rubber too. On hillclimbs, the club car pressures go down to 22psi rear and 20psi front. But check out the little triangles.

With directional tread patterns, you're restricted to same-side rotations (swaps really) and the passenger side tyres will be worn earlier wasting life in the driver's side tyres. (I was OCD enough to have directional tyres swapped on the rims (and vehicle side) to balance wear and extend life.) However, with asymmetric tyres (and assuming front and rear rims/tyres are the same size) you might as well share the wear across both sides of the vehicle with a proper rotation. Rears to same side front (keeping the same rolling direction of the tyres in the transition to steering duties). Fronts to diagonally opposite rear (which will flip the rolling direction ... hardly an issue in rear-wheel drive when drive and braking forces are transmitted through the tyre anyway and a non-issue in FWD vehicles). If pressures and alignment are maintained, that process will get maximum value from all four tyres.

Mine are, I checked them on Friday. But I’ll still watch as I’m bored and there is nothing on Foxtel.

I'm glad you said that John, because mine are rated for 230-270kP (33-39psi) but I regularly fill them to 300kP (43psi) as the fuel economy goes up slightly and the drive and handling seems identical.

An excellent, accessible, non-condescending explanation. Thanks!

In the track world, I've always been told to run lower pressure because they get so much hotter quicker that you need to compensate at cold readings (and/or the lower pressure yeilds a larger contact patch). Then there's real serious folks measuring hot to see what they're actually getting to of course.

My 2016 F-250 here in 'Murica calls for 65 psi, identical wheels and tires on the near identical F-350 is 80 psi. Running the 250 at 65 psi makes the front end absolutely chop the crap out of the tread and ruin the tires. At $1000 for a set of load range E light truck tires, I run the full 80 psi.

You are providing a valuable public safety message with these videos. Sir I Salute you.

As a NSW AUVIS I can tell you that during wet weather I find it difficult to get these No Name tyres to pass a brake test, some of the long wearing SUV/ 4WD tyres also perform poorly during brake tests in wet conditions.

Thanks for this. I could have used this on my last dealership visit. The pseudo-technician at my dealer recently read me the riot act about over-inflating my tires when I was complaining about an alignment problem. (Took wearing out a set of tires, 60000km, and 4 alignments for the whack-jobs to figure out one wheel was dynamically unbalanced). I had, properly, bumped up tire pressure to account for maximally loaded driving conditions. Helpfully, the pseudo-technician reset all my pressures to placard and sent me on my way. To the nearest air compressor. FFS

Quality tires at the right pressure is incredibly important, however I never recommend more than 10 percent over placard for any street car. The ride on many cars with responsive stiff suspensions suffers to the point of harshness in my experience. Hondas for instance get really uncomfortable with over 10 percent pressure. I can't get friends to check pressures even after I give them a air gauge. I don't want to deal with "it feels worse." If you want to drive faster I suggest plus size summer performance tires, racing pressures and other suspension modifications like Bilstein shocks. Trucks and trailers are another story. The other factor people ignore is temperature, tires lose one pound for every 10 degree F drop. Good report.

Thanks. Confirms what I've found works. Now, 10 or 20% above for safety. How much less for the mother in law's car?

Well said John. So true by my own experience. Most people would be driving their car under inflated at the recommended manufactured pressure and will prematurely wear out their tires. I’ve driven with my tires at 6 psi or more above recommended manufactures pressure and still my tires wear out prematurely like they’re underinflated.

one method that has worked for me is : find the max pressure, written on the wall, reduce by 10% and use that as a starting point. So 44psi - 4.4, say 5, = 39psi.

Back in my bike racing days, bias ply tires, we used the 10% Rule - difference between cold and hot pressure should be 10%. If higher add air. If lower, remove air. The Good Old Days

Out here in Nebraska we have temperature extremes, especially in the spring where the outdoor temperatures can vary over the course of the day and can drop or raise your tire pressure significantly. Checking the pressure has become a habit for me because of it.

Other reason the passenger side tyre will wear faster is because that's the outside tyre which is doing the bulk of the work going around roundabouts.

2013 i30 wagon.......recommended is 32psi.........major tyre retailer said 36.and at 36 it rides,corners and brakes beautifully

Good advice John. My wife went to a ladies information evening at the dealership for her car. They were told the placard tyre pressure was all about ride comfort. Her tyre placard says 32PSI they recommended 36PSI.

300nzd for a tyre, 2nd tyre in a month different wheel. This video definitely explains a lot. Great video thanks for the knowledge 💯👌🏾

Please don't forget the consequences of over inflation. If you get carried away with the pressure gauge you have no grip.

Load the vehicle normally, drive normally in a variety of conditions such as highway and windy road, measure the temperature on each side and the middle of the tyre for each load and driving condition, adjust pressure so all three temperatures are equal or as close to equal as possible, even temperatures equals even grip equals even wear. Obviously for practicality there are going to be compromises, I set up optimized for only me in the car on windy roads, you decide what you prefer.

Righto John, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70 R16 @ 55psi front, 60psi rear on D40 Navara, 180,000k life. I run 60psi rear as I carry a lot of tools and tow regularly.

Hello John Great video What I find interesting is the tyre placards and also what tyre retailers say. A tyre retailer will tell you that the placard pressures are there so your ride is comfortable. The retailers will tell you that a higher pressure is better for safety and wear. What they say seems intuitive to me but surely the car manufacturers also know this so why don't they save us all the doubts and put a higher pressure on in the first place. I'm not an expert or an engineer and the bottom line should be this is what is required so just do it. Thanks for you great videos, even the funny ones.

Yes I can. I check them every two weeks (every time I fill up the tank).

Thank you once again for another excellent and informative presentation.

Yes. I am absolutely confident that 20 minutes ago, my tyres are spot-on for pressure. The car even told me it was happy about the tyre pressures. Even my spare! O'lights are pretty fucking good lights...

Another added benefit of increasing the pressures above the placard is being able to notice slow punctures before the pressure gets below minimum hence saving excessive wear and possible replacement of a damaged tyre.

Where have YOU been all of my KZfaq life? You sir just made a subscriber out of me. The way you deliver your content is Excellent. Thank you for what you do.

all cars are spot on! compressor in the garage. 37 psi all around

Great video. Proper tire pressure ( and tread) is key to preventing hydroplaning too. In hot areas we found pressure loss causes flexing and heat build up and occasionally disastrous tread separation. Your life really does ride on those tires.

*Checks tyres.....* the wire is for grip, right?

Here I am, John, looking you straight in the eye and saying that unless my tyres have all sprung leaks in the last half-hour, then they are all at the correct pressure as specified by the car manufacturer and they were the same, this time last week. I'm fortunate, in that I have access to annually calibrated pressure vessels to be able to check and adjust my own tyre pressure gauge against. I'll watch the video right through though for information and entertainment. Have a good day, Friday!

Wow. What a wonderful commercial on flash lights. Oh, and the bit of info on tires was kinda interesting!

You can use chalk over a 4-6 inch cross section of the tires tread. Then go drive normally and it will reveal how your tire is contacting the road. If the center area is clean of chalk the pressure is too high. If just the outer edges or shoulders are clean the tire is under inflated. The idea is to see the chalk gone entirely.

I have a bit of OCD with my tyre pressures. For convenience I bought a Jamec PEM automatic tyre inflator / deflator bolted to the garage wall. Set my pressure and run around the car (and motorbikes) waiting for the beeps at each tyre and they're done. It wasn't cheap, but it makes life easy.

Its nice to have someone talking about actually useful stuff. I mean 0-60 times on cars that most people will never be able to afford is fun. But this shit is a lot more practical, usefull and makes a owning a car more involving.

Flashlight - Murica. Torch - Straya.

put 38 in mine not sure if the servo pumps default back to 32 cause every time i check mine its on 32.

Bloody good report old chap. All I heard was run 50PSI in those Pirellis, cause I'm a simpleton, but not too simple to deduct 10 percent, because, road.

Thank you for making me feel normal, great videos, keep on rolling from Newcastle upon Tyne England where people still think they have a democracy, petrol is £1.23p a litre & diesel is £1.29p on average. A large latte in Starbucks is £3.80p, minimum wage is approximately £8.72 if your over 25, £8.20p age 21to 24, £6.45p 18 to 20, under 18 years of age is £4.55p and apprentices is £4.15p. They say average wage in the UK is £30k but in my experience living in the north of england it's more like £24k, average house price in the north of england for a basic 3 bedroom house detached is £250k, I recently bought 2 Michelin pro climate tyres, 245, 40, R18 costing £297.00. A single train ticket from Newcastle to London paying at the station the day you turn up is £212 for a 235 mile trip, although I travelled from Newcastle to Swansea in wales & that was £316 single, motorway service stations fuel is approximately 20% more. road fund licence (car tax) is £140 a year for an Audi 2014 2L diesel, my partners Renault clio 1.4L (12 years old is £240) car insurance for me is £375 a year, been driving 25 years and 10 years no claim bonus, break down cover is £170 a year for the works. Audi charge me £134 an hour for labour for any work on, changed to a local garage who charge me £45 an hour. Speeding ticket is between £80 to £100 as long as you haven't went over speed limit by no more than 10%, over 100mph instant ban unless your in the masons a night of the Garter a Lord, Sir, Dame or an MP, 132000 should have passed away due to covid, our PM came on live TV 9 months ago and said to take covid on the chin, £37 billion contract given to government donor for ttack and trace which has never worked, that would be enough to give every NHS worker a £26k bonus instead of the 1% pay rise, 1.4 million staff work for the NHS, only 3 people own 85% of all the UK's main stream media and are all right wing, UK has no free press, 4 million people use food banks every day, 1.7 million unemployed but the real figure is more than double that, they cut every disabled persons benifit by £30 pw, average disability benefit is £110 pw, state pension is £148pw, unemployment is £71pw if you can get it, an estimated £80 to £135 billion a year is siphoned off from UK tax to shell companies & offshore companies in tax havens, thought I'd let you no how great the UK is. Have a great day.

When I was taught Advanced driving we were told minimum 40 psi hard ride but great response.

Yes sir my tyre pressures are correct as of 5 days ago. I do this once a fortnight so I don't have to feel guilty when I see videos like this. Negative reinforcement does work. And well. My family's safety and well-being thanks you for it.

Just for interest sake, I fitted Steeda Spyder Rims with Michelin Pilot Sport tyres to my 2015 Mustang, which were subsequently transferred to my 2018 Mustang. Now I'm talking over $500 per tyre in addition to the $500 for each rim - quality in both departments. I check the air pressure regularly for the very reasons you mentioned, but what I have found incredible, is that they have never even lost 1 psi in all that time, although I've adjusted the pressures depending on wet/dry conditions and if I'm taking it out for a drive in the country with the lads or with the wife.

Some people over look tire pressures and tire brands. My Dad made sure to educate my Brothers and I on the importance of tires

Interesting video, thank you for the information. A quick point if I may? Every tyre pressure information bite I’ve ever seen has had the “if it is worn more in the centre then it’s over inflated” bit included. Sure this is correct, but in the 39 years I’ve been a licensed driver I have never seen a tyre worn in the middle! My point is, I believe some people have the tyre pressure right, but *most* people have their tyres under inflated.

Just a comment that rear tyres are important (even on FWD) for wet weather driving and not aquaplaning. I always thought the better tyres on front for FWD due to them being driven wheels, but I've recently learned the advice is to get the better tyres on the rear as the last thing you want in the wet is aqua plane induced oversteer.

Excellent video You take those things people think they know and take for granted and expound on them I just went out tonight in the rain, got back and saw this video pop up and now I'm thinking, it's been a while since I checked my tyres, tomorrow morning when hopefully there's a break in the rain, I'll be checking them I drive a Delica, it's an awesome vehicle and I buy tyres that are as wide as my vehicle will accommodate and I pick the ones with the highest wet ratings as I figure that's when tyres are most called upon to save my arse. I never cheap out on tyres, if it's say $30 extra for per tyre, big deal, that probably gets spent on coffee over a short period anyhow Perhaps I'm wasting money on going for wet weather tyres as preference but in my ignorance it's what I've decided to focus on It's good to know one can go up to 20% extra pressure on the tyres, I didn't know how much extra one can go to if required. I had a mechanic once try and fix a fuel performance issue by going insane on the pressure to try and reduce rolling resistance. It worked but I literally bounced down the road, lol. He's now gone out of business, I wonder why... Did I say what a great video this is 😀

I am absolutely certain. My Lotus is set at 24F 27R cold and my ute is 30 PSI all round. I check whenever the ambient air temp changes by 20F or every other fill-up.

I have found that the owners manual often suggests a pressure that is too low

At one time, where I worked, we shared an R&D facility witch a rubber products R&D. I recall a discussion about tyre pressures with those guys. The question was if the car manufacturer recommended pressure was indeed the optimum, as there were numbers also on their tyres and the numbers differed from those on the door sticker. So they explained that the car manufacturer emphasized comfortable (soft ride) more than the tyre manufacturer does. The latter instead emphasizes the longevity of the tyres a bit more. So, you are likely to find about 2 to 4 PSIG higher pressure recommendation from tyre manufacturer than the car manufacturer.. Now, one more practical issue -- your ambient temperature affects the tyre pressure year around. Think many places in the US, where you experience below 0 F in winter and over 100 F in summer. As the pressure is proportional to the Absolute Temperature, the relative pressure change is 32%. That is definitely alone a reason to adjust the pressures a few times per year.

interesting how he mentions adding pressure for a track day.. I was told to drop pressures for the track day. I was running low 20s, which would rise to the mid 20s on track.

Peter Brock and his energy polariser, had a different perspective on this matter

My father is a mechanic, so I am aware of a lot of this, and it drives me crazy that my grandfather puts the pressures down because it rides better. The previous tyres on my car, which was previously his, wore out prematurely because he would run them lower for ride comfort, even though I don't have any issues with them being higher. As the son of a mechanic though, I have inherited the complacency of assuming everything is fine with just periodic checks. I have never burned oil however. I need to get into the habit of checking my coolant, as I am aware of a small leak from the top of my radiator which has twice caused me grief before actually finding it. The issue is being rectified at the next service, which is 50km away. It took a few months for the water temps to climb above normal operating temperature though, so it isn't a major issue YET. Radiator is set to be replaced. I am just very lucky to have inherited such a reliable workhorse in my 1992 Hilux.

Great video John. Please present more content of this type; informative, factual, simple. Ming moles, MALS and EJ bashing is fun; but this is the real deal.

If you're not caliper-friendly (or not an owner), you can get a tread depth gauge/gage and check that way. Try your local auto parts or big box store.

I just had my winter tyres changed over to the 3 season stock Michelins on my ElectricJesusMobile today actually. (Will check my engine oil and radiator coolant fluids later as instructed, I promise.) The magick screen of my TechnoKing, tells me it’s precisely at 42 psi as required. Thank you, O Great Cadogan Vizier for the reminder.

Funny, I just checked my tire pressure 10 min before I saw this video. Good content!!

As a vehicle inspector I can quite confidently say 80% of cars inspected will have the tyre pressure warning light on. The light will have been on for ages and the owner couldn't care less....

My Toyota calls for 32 lbs of air. I ran that for a while and could see the tire was definitely wearing fast and it was geared towards ride comfort, now I run about 38 to 40 psi and the tires wear much better now and steering feels much better.

Commercial vehicle tyres are absolutely safe for normal car use and you can get a lot of life out of them. Not long ago I replaced mine (which never let go or gave me a scare at any time) at 150,000km, and they were still legal.

Laziness is the biggest problem when checking tyre pressures. Getting the compressor out, hooking it all up, moving it from tyre to tyre is, to be honest, a royal pain in the bum. The BEST thing I have ever bought for checking pressures is one of the little all in one battery powered compressors (ours was from Aldi) with a digital gauge. It makes it so easy, that I now check the pressures far more frequently than I ever used to. The other thing I highly recommend is a TPMS. If your car hasn't got one, even the $40 Ebay cheapies are reasonably good. You can then get a relatively accurate look at pressures as you drive. Pressure does vary quite considerably from cold to hot and also depends on the ambient temp. One thing to note is that there is no magical number to inflate tyres to, even the recommended ones can be weird. I think from memory, ours is 28psi! I would never run it that low for normal road driving. Pressure setting depends on road conditions, load, time of year etc.

Thanks John. My Pajero states 26psi F/ 29psi R. I have found 32psi all around works nicely when unloaded. I think a good idea is to measure the height of the centre of the hub to ground when unloaded. With a max load in the car, measure it again and top tires up to the same height. Do NOT exceed max pressure of course! In my opinion you will get the same footprint with this method. Your thought on this??

Thanks John for the good information I use tyre wear on all our vehicles as a way to determine tyre pressure. I have found two cheap brands of tyres that are really good tyres ,and have given better wet grip and wear than the Bridgestone tyres we were using on one of our cars. My tyre service said my tyre pressures were to low ,but also agreed that the wear was even .carefully monitoring wear over time and adjusting pressure slightly as you suggested works well for our cars. I also regularly check the pressure Thanks for your good info as always

The main area of air leaks is the seating bead of the rim. This needs to be scrubbed clean to remove the crap that accumulate there's after a few tyre fitments. This includes the lubricants the tyre fitter uses to put the tyre on plus rubber remnants from the tyre. Only a teeny weeny amount of air permeates thru rubber, not enough to be an issue. Tyre fitter won't understand, got to get tyres off and clean at home, need about 30 min each rim, soft scourer and arm effort to get the crap off to solve deflating tyre issues.

The PSI information alone, saved a life.

Thank you John!! Well described! I have been adjusting my tire pressures above the placard listed 32 psi for years generally the tires are at 36-37 psi checked monthly unless the ambient temperatures change like Summer and Winter conditions. Average tire life for me is over 40K Miles depending on brand. Currently riding on The CrossContact™ LX25. 38500 so far mounted on my 2017 Lexus RX350. Happy New Year!

I like the tyre pressure monitors on cars nowadays. Can leave for work on a cool morning with 32psi, it hits 36 when I get to work, on the way home after a run up the highway they hit 40. Next morning, 32. 115k kilometres on this set. Goodyear for the win.

Bad wheel alignment can scrub new tyres to scrap in 1k mls. Always check tyre speed rating before land speed record attempts.

🙏 John that was a great clip, thanks for sharing legend! Will be implementing!

Trouble is, if you check the pressures regularly, you keep letting the air out. On a more serious note, some tyre manufacturers have recommended pressure lists on their website, often with higher pressures than the car manufacturer recommends. Go with the higher of the two.