I prefer wood too.

+Firefighter's Tool Box Alright, but, wood or nor, why isn't the head seated correctly? Looks like the top of the eye is inset about half an inch.

I thought the same thing until I did further investigation. I had a look at some of our other axes and they all had the same gap. These handles have a fiberglass core that is about an inch wide and half an inch thick. This core is the structural portion of the handle and is seated correctly in the eye and filled with epoxy. The gap that you see is where there was a foam gasket. During manufacturing the gasket was used to act as a seal for the epoxy but overtime has been wearing out and I have found that on some of our axes the foam gasket was completely missing. I know it looks bad but it doesn’t affect the structural integrity of the axe. The yellow plastic porting on the handle is merely there for grip and the white fiberglass core (which you can’t see) is the structural portion of the axe handle. I hope this answers your question.

Firefighter's Tool Box Ah, I see. Still a shame you haven't got a hickory handle. I could never stand fiber glass.

kaizoebara Thank you for your comment. You are correct about the angle, as a firefighting axe it is use to cut through roofing material, drywall and at times even masonry. A thin and very sharp blade is not ideal for these kinds of materials because it would be vulnerable to damage. It’s kind of more a bashing tool than a cutting tool in this application unlike a forestry axe or wood working axe. Good observation.

+Firefighter's Tool Box Don't traditional firefighter's axes come with pick though? Seems like a good way to preserve the edge. Is there any particular disadvantage to the pick?

The Pick headed axe is used for ventilation, overhaul and roof work the pick is good for prying up roof boards and decking. The flat head is most commonly used in conjunction with the Halligan tool. They marry and are carried as a set called “the Irons” and are used for work such as forcible entry and search and rescue.

Firefighter's Tool Box The more you know.

Ryan Rizzio I understand. I'm fortunate that my department was willing to spend the money to tune up our equipment.

A dewalt angle grinder is $60, that's the most expensive purchase. Do you want a nice axe or not?

@@NobodyCaresALotMaybe times have changed since your comment but the bench grinder alone is at minimum $50 and that’s not with the polishing wheel you have to buy. Then, the angle finder and grinder, files (which for some reason are very difficult to identify which materials they can be used on imo), sharpening stone etc etc. I probably will invest in these items over time anyway, but I cannot imagine the average joe going out and buying all this stuff for a $30 axe unless they had the need for the tools anyway. Even then, it’s a stretch.

justin carter too many tools I have restored axe heads from black and rusty too polished in a day by hand. Using sandpaper, wire wool, elbow grease, a file and sharpening stone.

I like to use CRC Heavy Duty silicone spray. Some people have recommended using automobile wax. I have also used a thin coat of boiled linseed oil ,let cure for 24hrs, and add a thin coat of motor oil.

+mrbluenun I thought the same thing until I did further investigation. I had a look at some of our other axes and they all had the same gap. These handles have a fiberglass core that is about an inch wide and half an inch thick. This core is the structural portion of the handle and is seated correctly in the eye and filled with epoxy. The gap that you see is where there was a foam gasket. During manufacturing the gasket was used to act as a seal for the epoxy but overtime has been wearing out and I have found that on some of our axes the foam gasket was completely missing. I know it looks bad but it doesn’t affect the structural integrity of the axe. The yellow plastic porting on the handle is merely there for grip and the white fiberglass core (which you can’t see) is the structural portion of the axe handle.

@@3rogers2010 I use the fiberglass/epoxy replacements on all of my axes and sledge hammers when they break- they don't split/crack or rot, and generally take lot's more abuse (IMO).

It’s fiberglass and OP also stated that they much prefer hickory.

get a quality made axe and all you'll need is a sharpening stone

I mean if you have an axe I would be surprised if you didn't already have all the materials in this video....

That's no $20 axe. That's a Council Tool made in the US. It's a tool of professionals.

dogncatmom not an axe like that. All that material cost probably less than a new axe like those.

If at a fire station, you'll have a lot more tools to keep and maintain So to say it would be worth the investment of you have a lot of tools.