Glad I could help. There are a lot of vehicles that use this type of setup where the bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft and held in place with a collar. The process is the same for everyone of them.

Boxing

This is a problem when your press won't accommodate the job. Sometimes a custom homemade jig is required to make up for the short comings of the shop tooling. If you do enough of these it might be worth while to spend the time fabricating something. You might look into a piece of square or round pipe or tubing that has an inside diameter large enough for the flange with thick enough walls to accommodate the pressure and long enough to remove the bearing. I would think 6" would be enough. There are a lot of online metal stores where you can choose the inside diameter, wall thickness and length and have it shipped to your door.

You see that shinny surface on the axle next to the collar? That is the seal surface. The seal is in the axle housing. If that shinny surface is damaged or grooved the seal won't seal properly. Also make sure after replacing the seal that you look for the axle vent. if this vent is plugged up the seal will leak again. Make sure the oil is not over filled. This can also cause the seal to leak. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the seal for this vehicle but I do have a video on replacing an axle seal and bearing from a differently designed rear axle.

On the bearing side closest to the axle flange there is a shoulder that the bearing stops on and the retaining bracket sits between the bearing and the flange.

This is a called a bearing splitter. This is an OTC brand model number 1130.

Rear diff strip down

You can try but it takes a lot of pressure sometimes. Remember the old bearing and retainer have been on a long time. I have always done it this way. I didn't show the gauge when I pressed the bearing off but it took between 4 and 5 tons of pressure just to remove the bearing.

@@DrivelineMaster i guess that was sort of a dumb question. Because why else would you and other drivetrain gurus do it like that. Im about to do my samurai axle bearings I never messed with pressed on bearings. Only c clip axles. So i was just doing a little research thanks for the video

This is an option if you don't have a press but you have to get them pretty hot and I prefer not to expose my new bearing or locking sleeve to that kind of heat. I also prefer not to work with the very hot parts.

​@@DrivelineMaster ​ you are max right

It's brake drum and we don't want anyone to get hurt. Yes, that would be a good point to make but then my viewers would not be able to see the action.

It's nice to work for a place that can purchase all these specialty tools.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion. 1) I see no other way to perform this task. You say it's wrong but don't offer another solution. 2) I know machinist, and shop technicians who have been doing it this way since the mid 1960's and have never..... ever... bent anything or has the integrity of the axle ever been compromised to breakage, failure or malfunction. This is one reason for drilling the holes first to weaken the retainer and lessen the impact on the axle. I have known some who heat up the retainer to install it but that too can compromise the retainer and the heat as it cools can transfer to the bearing. Not a good idea. As I said, you have the right to an opinion but you offer no other way to perform this task. On the other hand I have been doing this for over 40 years with a lot of history and experience. If by chance you are a metallurgist there is theory of changing the structure of the metal and then there is real world practicality. These are not space crafts.