I finished it up and went for a ride up the street. First half mile just checking out the pull from each pedal assist from about 5mph up to about 20mph. Couldn't wait any longer to open it up. Full blast for about 5 miles and when I got home the motor and controller were barely warm. No noticeable difference in heat between stock and shunt mod. Huge difference in pulling power!

Thanks for sharing that. 👍 I just modified my bike with BBSHD, now I'm playing with programming parameters. This mod might come in the future. At the moment I'm quite happy with 12S LiPo power.

Thank you very much for posting this Jeremy!

Good to see, i may do this and a new nylon gear replacement and 60A batt later. Thnaks for the vid i didnt know the shunts were that easy to get to on the back.. Is it possible it you know the exact location you could cut/drill the outside case to access the shunts and make a patch cover for the hole?

Are you going to sauter 1 or two on top of the resistors updates on any success would be great

It seems like most everybody is out of these shunts resistors where else can I get them ?? Also I found the R003 ones but they want 2x the shipping cost of the products For 10 piece =$3.51 + Shipping is $7.99 I have a couple old BBSHD controllers that have the same error 12H code before I bought a new one and Now I can try this Mod on them

Thanks Jeremy for video, I after shunt mod hav around 1200miles, everything is good, but what you think, if soldered ower 4more resistors, power lifting in peac 3 times?

I think I will do this. Nice

Just remove the bafang controller alltogether and use a MQ con sabvoton, it turns the bafang into an awesome motor, and with 72 volt battery ,youll have bike that accelarates faster than motor bike

what material did you use to fill the socket?

lol.. I blew one resistor up due to a short on the wires. after 4 months of just riding with max 250 watts it now works again..... I gottah say... these motors are strong. Not just with power..... also in the way they are build!

Just replace the magnet to the paddle crank… much easier 5-10minutes you’ll go ( dependent on your gears ) to 40 km/h easy

is there also a voltage mod? to run this motor on 60 or even 72v?

Hiw did it work out?

They must have changed the parts # because it does NOT come up on there site ( 588-PCS2512FR050ET )

I just smoked my hd motor doing a long hill climb with a double amp controller. I was pushing almost 3000w for a couple of minutes. Disassembled the motor tonight and both the rotor and stator are burnt. Ordered a new nylon gear a hall sensor board and a new stator with the rotor.

Follow up video of how quick the bike is please.

Dam Son

Hey cool video I like the topic, I haven't seen this done on KZfaq till now and also do you know about the phaserunner V3 by Grin technology? it's something you might be interested in I know I am.

Don't think we don't hear that fire alarm

Is yours still running?

I doubled down sautering to r005 on top and there was no increase or decrease in power

I would not recommend to mess with original controllers. After frying 4 of them after the shunt mode I have finally put an external ASI BAC855 in place. Shunt mod is the best way to get stuck in the middle of the woods with a dead ebike :D BAC855 is very affordable at ~180Eur and the difference is HUGE.

Huh... Instruction "How to burn your controller"? More amp's = more heat. If you need more power - use external controller. (And change gears to steel one)

Sorry, but your math is off. 1/5+1/5+1/5 = 3/5 so your equivalent resistance is 5/3 = 1.6666667. You're going from 2.5 Ohm to 1.66667Ohm 2.5/1.666667=1.5 30*1.5=45A This is a 45A shunt mod, not a 60A. You need to add 2*5 Ohm resistors to get 60A 1/5+1/5+1/5+1/5 = 4/5 eq= 1.25 2.5/1.25 = 2 30A*2 = 60A. If you remove the 2*5Ohm and replace them with 2*3Ohm you're equivalent resistance would be 1.5 and 2.5/1.5 = 1.666667 so 30*1.666667=50A.

When you glue on heatsinks use silicone, and make the thinnest possible layer. You want both surfaces flat and bare metal if possible, flat like glass mirror flat and then use the thinnest layer of silicone any silicone works, and you get best heat dissipation with the thinest layer. just barely enough to squeeze out, or less than that, try smearing both sides until you cannot smear dabs off with your finger, both sides that way, and then press together and clamp. You will not burn out the mosfets if you keep them cool, and dont overvolt or stall the bike or jolt it.

Just get a higher power motor and run it at nominal rate. These shunt mods are dodgy and void warranty.

Now that we know where the resistors are located you could,,, Mill out the plate then pick out the compound to replace the resistors. Just takes a small mill or small lathe with a good vice, any machine shop should be able to do it cheap and quick. Just a 1/2in slot about 3/4in wide to get in with the solder gun. Then just seal up with jb weld and put a heatsink over it. This can be a very worthwhile mod. I think the stock controller should be kept, keeping in the theme of simple cheap and effective. No need to buy more shit for the hell of it. It can do max of 63v but, just to be correct, the battery pack should be 58.8v maximum. 14s lion or 16s lifepo4 at 58.6vmax. This way is probably the most you can squeeze out of these motors, I would go with lifepo4 and less power. Lion is not reliable enough for me, i want 1 battery and done battery for 5 years or 10 or more with everyday or less frequent charge cylces. 400 vs 3000. And add tungsten disulfide powder to all of the bearings and gears, this reduces friction significantly, increases max capable gear load and bearing load. Its very good stuff, its tungsten, so its extrmely durable, the microlubrol stuff can be trusted. If you repack all the gears and bearings with lighter grease and tungsten disulfide powder mixed in a 5-10 percent or less mixture, it will absolutely make the thing last forever, *** I think using tungsten disulfide grease on gears and lightweight grease everywhere else will keep the original plastic gear intact. The only probelm with gears stripping is heat, so if you run it nuts, and then start from stop with the plastic gear pretty hot, you will deform the plastic probably. WIth the tungsten, you get slippery surfaces, less friction, less heat on the gears, in this theory, you would keep the original gear intact. If you get it super hot, the gear will strip. If you add heatsinks to the motor, you can probably keep the gear cool with the ultra low friction grease, and the extra cooling. I would add heatsinks if youre pushing more than 40a. I would add tungsten disulfide to any bearing expecially bike bearing or gear motor that I own. Heat in the motor and magnets would then be the next major thing to consider, which i would consider potting the stator with high temperature automotive varnish or something more conductive. It would make it quieter and more efficient because copper losses would be minimized. Think of it like a rework, or your 1000 mile maintenance job, or whenever its supposed to be maintained as recommended by bafang. The grease and ws2 powder will help stop wear dead in its tracks. For your bike chain, though, I always would recommend a dry wax lube, as that has worked best for me under all conditions.