For anyone watching this in the future, I neglected to thin the dope. This and the cold weather made it ‘blush’. In future episodes I crack the code!!

Doing well Richard, I’ve nearly completed a Busa 1/3 DR1 and had some twisting in the control surfaces as the dope tightened. I recovered them and paid more attention second time around. Just be mindful of that especially in your wings.

Glenn say's specificlay not to machine was the fabric. Your supposed to do it by hand with a light soap like Woolite. My next go at this, I may try to use Sigs Stix it or balsa rite to iron on glue the fabric. Keep in mind, the dope is glue, and it is really what is permanently adhering the fabric to the airframe.

Great experiment. A couple of thoughts from my experience 1) Make sure the glue you are using is compatible with the dope ... otherwise the dope may release the glue when under stress. Same with paint. When I painted the frame, the dope broke down the paint and stained the fabric. Left the metal un protected against rust. I had to go back and use epoxy paint to prevent that. 2) It was common to sew a tight fitting envelope like a pillow case and pull it over the wing. The ends would be hand stitched closed or use upholstery tacks. 3) The first coat of dope should be thinned down by 50% so that it soaks into the fabric. 4) That white layer is called blush and is the result of moisture in the air getting trapped in the dope while drying. There is a product called retarder that gets rid of blush. 5) There is tautening dope and non-tautening dope. If you only use tautening dope the fabric will continue to shrink over time and could break the wooden structure underneath. The non-tautening dope is used to stabilize the tautening dope so it stops shrinking.

When you get onto the real deal maybe you should make a little 1/3 scale screwdriver and leave it in the wing... 😂