Good idea, thx. This new version works, but good to keep in mind that method too.

AMS and then PLA basic vs PLA Tough if they will finally be available in the EU stores. Also fast vs slow printing strength test.

New test? It's just another 3D printer. It will be the same test as all the others. 😂

It would be interesting to see if the strength of filament or layer adhesion changes with print speed and by how much. The P1P will allow that wide range of print speeds. Run one in QUITE and one in SPORT….same GCODE. (Yes, I know the settings are just feed rate changes (LOL))

​@@genegreiner7766 A voron also allows that wide range of printing speed. So the tests have already been done. There are videos on KZfaq if you're curious. If you're specifically talking about the performance of this printer, okay, but I think you'll find it has the same results as any other strength tests he's done. I don't understand some of the comments though. The Bambu is just another 3D printer. The only thing special about this printer is that it competes with a voron but comes completely set up ready to go. That's it. It doesn't have a built-in flux capacitor and it's not a time machine. 🤷 Other 3D printers can already do what this printer does. It's just your average person doesn't have the skills necessary to use those advanced machines. Convenience is all this printer has over other printers. Which is a great thing. I just think people have the wrong idea about this printer and talk about it like it's some giant leap in technology. It's not.

Very true. CNC Kitchen has done these tests. I just wanted to give my favorite channel some ideas.

Hvala! Pozdrav

Thx (0.25mm)

@@MyTechFun haha yeah .025 is kinda low

Yes, that was confusing to me too. But on textured PEI product page, there are clear instructions.

Yes, somehow that was my filling too. Thx for confirming..

@@MyTechFun You are welcome, we all made that same mistake one time, including me =)

Hvala :-)

p1p uses the exact same z probing as the x1 - piezoelectric transducers under the bed which detect the nozzle touches the bed. there is no z height adjustment needed.

If you do need too you can adjust z Hight in the start gcode for filament you are using, there are also other settings in the slicer you can adjust for a similar effect. I needed to lower my z offset on my P1P for some ASA that I am using with the textured bed so I set it in the start gcode for that material in the slices and now I never have to touch it again for that filament. I use softfever slice but presume it would be the same in bambu

😂 I'm sure it was you that convinced him. 😂

They're brass bushings, not sure how long they're expected to last but for some reference my igus bushings only lasted about ~100 hours with carbon tubes they are indeed abrasive.

I can answer part of that. I have been printing, on X1C, for 2300+ hours and just perform general maintenance. ipa cleaning of rods, belt tensioning and Z screw greasing and prints are fine since I started using the printer in Aug 2022.

I'm around 1,000 hours now with an X1C and it continues to deliver fewer problems per hour and more productivity per hour than my Prusas.

P1P or X1C is easy - do you want to print with abrasive materials? (Carbon fiber which needs enclosure). If no, go with P1P, for PLA it may be even better because of its open structure

@@MyTechFun thanks. I think I'll never go to Carbon fiber..yet. After experiencing problems with PLA in warm temperature now my main material is always ABS. I guess enclosure is a must.

@@skelethornbro for ABS enclosure is needed for objects bigger than 10-20mm. But good news is there are solutions for P1P. Search for ARC enclosure.

Flexible PLA (but not TPU)? I have some Orbi-Tech soft PLA - something like this?

@@MyTechFun I saw some Flexible PLA (definetly not TPU) on one of the cosplay printing channels and it can be painted without cracking the paint, ovbiously if you were to screw it up it might crack but this filament was awsome but I forgotton who makes it, I will go through my history

Some people are working on a 3rd party board swap. Hope that comes out soon

@@del808 In the past 6 months? 3 times probably

@@del808 Oh sorry misread, we were talking about 3D printers so I assumed that is what you asked... same answer though, if you ripe the board out of a bambu and then replace it with something else will it work or do they have systems in place that will prevent it from functioning.

FLSun is much quieter, but to print good it needs some basic upgrades (Extruder, Spool holder, PEI sheet). P1P don't need any upgrades if you don't need an enclosure or hardened nozzle. So P1P.

its cheaper than a prusa i3 kit!

SI unit for the speed is m/s (or in this case mm/s). Acceleration unit is m/s² = m/(s*s)

@@MyTechFun I was curious about the pronunciation you made, but may be due to some accent differences 😅

Search on printables, mine is too small, I realised that later (if you have AMS too and use color changes). Like this one: www.printables.com/model/254061-bambu-lab-purgeflushpoop-bucket-for-x1-or-x1-carbo

I know 5 persons who owns Bambulab and two of them uses SD card. If I would use Bambulab on my workplace, I coudn't connect it to that "special" network for example..

What'd you expect when they made the x1c stripped down to an open carcass?

@@Declopse That had nothing to do with it, the carbon is loud as well.

It's an engineering grade machine, it's not supposed to be quiet.

@@rollotomasi1832 Dude, it's enclosed when it's printing the p1p does not, thus it's louder. It's an engineering-grade machine it can't be quiet

Than I better save some money and buy a really engineering 3 d printer like e3d tool hanger 😉