Correction regarding the PETG segment: I wanted to note that I didn’t mean these machines can print PETG or other slow filaments with good quality, it is definitely possible and it came off a bit wrong in my video. This was simply the experience that I had with the standard profiles.

Great video. Agreed, the AMS is not as reliable as the printers are... 95% of my Bambu Lab frustrations are with the AMS.

Thanks for the long term review! Honest and no sugarcoating. Much appreciated. I've been amazed by my bambu printers; I have an A1, and A1 mini and another A1 and mini on the way. AFAIK, bambu started shipping the gold textured PEI plates with all their printers, and I agree, they're amazing.

It’s wild how underrated you are. I was genuinely shocked when I saw that you had less than 1,000 subscribers. Glad to catch you channel while it’s still new! If it’s already this engaging at only its 3rd video, I can’t wait to see what you do next 😁

Come on, man.... How am I supposed to binge videos of a creator I just discovered and very much enjoy if there are no videos to binge? Jokes aside, keep up the great work! Your videos definitely have a charm about them with clean edits and enjoyable transitions. They don't come off as low effort or tacky, but more so semi-serious with some comedic elements using the basic typefaces and lowercase letters. I really enjoy them! And thanks for the insight on the P1S. I have on on the way from Bambu Lab and ill have to keep these in mind when I use it.

a lot of these things are stuff that people havent talked about so i really appreciate you telling us everything about your experience. Great job dude :)

Thank you for the post. You've collected some extremely useful long-term information, tips and tricks. Very helpful!

*sigh* so I keep seeing people say that their sparsely filled rolls have issues (usually cardboard ones that are smaller) but there are 3d printable adapter rings that solve this. To say nothing about respooling or what I do: respool onto 1/2 and 1/3 bisected reels that fit onto the bbl reusable spools so you can pull them off and on as you like so you can even get sample coils to work in the AMS.

Just found about you, great work man! Love the efforts.

My biggest frustration with the AMS is how many steps are required to clear the most common jam. Any time I have filament break off in the AMS (mostly due to bad filament), you need to practically take the whole thing apart to access the ptfe tubes feeding into the hub. Had they added an access hatch on the bottom, you could just flip it over, pull a panel, and get access to the tubes to clear a jam. Instead I'm stressing two tiny wire connectors every time I need to disassemble it to clear a jam.

I didn’t think of it like that when you said the nozzles are supposed to break. Just like a car, it’s designed to absorb the impact. Very good point there.

Thanks for the heads up about reinforced nozzles. I hope this tip saves somebody.

The camera going purple is a failure that usually happens when they don't handle the heat over time. The higher chamber temperatures you have, the sooner they go purple.

When the word Perfect is in the title you know that you are working with a great printer. I too have bambu printers, Prusa and any cubic. The non Bambu printers I do not think you can use the word perfect anywhere near them. Prusa is , or was dependable but my babus are MORE dependable and better quality printers. I have no qualms with my D2 Resin DLP any cubic though, extreme detail and just awesome!!! Nice video.. keep em comin

Great job on your video! I'm hard of hearing and found that your are very easy to understand. Keep up the good work and congrats on nearly 10k views, I'm thrilled when I get into the hundreds of views - LOL.

Thanks for the tips, never realized about the PTFE tube contacting the glass!!

Your videomaking and your confidence looks professional, keep it up :)

I’m really looking forward to their next flagship, I hope they listen to their community and all the simple issues that people have had and make a great printer

Regarding the Z homing crashing in to the bottom of the printer - if it happens, check around the rear Z leadscrew for stray poop that has fallen down the back.

I had that 3d printed part on my p1s. Two days after i bought it. I had filament stuck in the extruder and ended taking it apart to clean. I created a support ticket where employees noticed that 3d printed part in one of the pictures i sent. The mentioned that its not recommended as it can cause layer shifting issues. Not sure if thats true. Kinda new here. Just thought id throw it out there

Another thing. Maintenance. These thing are really not built to be taken apart. I have just had to replace my belt on the p1s. and man.. NEVER AGAIN. The side panels and everything have to be stripped from the machine. There are so many hidden screws I refuse to put back in. idler pulleys squeak. Petg prints can be iffy although there are custom profiles for that. And the printers can be quite loud. But again there are mufflers and sound deadening you can help reduce this.

I reached out to bambu about the bed going down first issue because all my prints are very tall. Bambulab tech support informed me the software uses much less amperage during these initial movements and the incredible sound it produces is not one to worry about 😅. I don’t feel it is so necessary to go as far down on Z initially but they do it to avoid tool head collisions with the bed. I run 5 bambu lab core XY machines 23/7. So far 8k in hours and they are all still killing it. I have had to upgrade to the hardened extruder gear on all of them but other than that they are absolutely the best work horses I have ever had.

I have four with 2k hours each. I'm an expert at repairing them and now I'm gonna buy another 4 with the sale. In all, I've maybe done 10-12 hours in repairs with 6 months of printing all day and night. I will never purchase another printer that isn't a bambu. Company is for production, if you want to tinker then pick up a k1. 😂 I reroll everything onto bambu spools, or pop the sides off and put it on. That solves majority of all the ams issues I had on the first two months of farming.

I find with the lightweight spools, kapton tape on the spool edges, and leaving the lid lifted with the lil lock down feet. i also tend to add extra slack on the filement by spinning the spool a bit. Annoying, but it helps me finish spools

Please provide a link to the bed trimming knobs.

Great Video, great Channel

How are you measuring wear on the CF rods? residue on the rods is usually from filament not from the rods themselves, when you clean them you're cleaning them off due to filament that creates dust more often than not. the CF rods can be bought for $85 U.S. vs Qidi and other competitors which are permanent and make the printer disposable; worth a notation that they sell them in case you somehow did wear them out or damage them.

Thanks for your candor

Very nice video. If I had a wish I would ask you to add links to the tools (like the bed trimming nobs) that helped you in the your comment / description of the video. Wish you fun dismantling your AMS to get it up and running again - I did it now a serval times for maintenance or repair reasons. Especially you should check the PTFE tubes inside when you run your AMS for such a long time. I was very surprised how thin they got.

NIce review witch gives me a good idea what to expect when being one. I will start with the A1 probably. See if its good for the purposes I want it and then when being ready to go manufacturing stuff, I can get a Carbon. AMS - not really necessary because for modelbuilding everything will be painted anyway. Keep up the reviews !

I love the random BLADEE clips

hey thanks, original take, I liked it. Interested in the fix for the ptfe tube and the bed tramming... Please include them :-)

I respectfully disagree on a lot of your points. I have over 2000 hours on mine and have 5 AMS units. I agree that the printers are far from perfect and that they get dirty fairly quickly. I haven't had any of the issues you've described. I also use my 5th AMS for multi-colored TPU printing. Maybe I got lucky ... Have a great day! Also as soon as I could I bought a Revo hotend. Then immediately bought a Panda Revo as soon as they were available.

I LISTEN TO MONEY MACHINE ON FULL VOLUME EVERYDAY

So fed up with (what seems like) tech influencers shilling bamboo. Enjoyed the counter arguments :) thanks

Starting to get SD Card not found errors on one of my printers.

I want to buy a new printer. Creality K1C or Bambu P1S. Which is better? Any recommendation?

I have over 1600 hours on my X1C and I just use Windex maybe once every other month? what PLA are you using that leaves this much residue on the glass?????? it's probably why you think the rods are 'wearing' it's probably residue from the PLA you're using

I love mine best printer I’ve ever had

i has serious bed adhesion with my X1 and the cool plate. Glue made things worse. I got this issue now resolved. Every about 5 prints I was with soap. But with every print I was with glass cleaner and it works perfectly every time. But that glue stick. What a nightmare it was. I don’t understand why this was ever a good idea or. If it works but it doesn’t at all with me.

Mashalla Haare sind baba

NA REALLY?! Also really love the review

have you had any experience with the a1 from bambu?

NEVER HAD A JAM DUE TO EMPTY SPOOLS?

No link to the parts?

I FIND THE SLOWER I PRINT THE BETTER THE QUALITY THE PRINT IS

Surprised the AMS is pretty much all plastic.. Probably the reason the A1 and A1 minis have crash detection is cause they're more recent, and Bambu probably realized that would be something good to have after the first set, esp for printers that less experienced individuals would most likely be getting. Would be nice if it could be retrofitted to their Core XY printers, but at this point it's probably not really worth it to them since they're probably already working on the next iteration ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

elegoo rapid petg 600mm/s

Regarding your gripes with cleaning the lead screws: Ever tried the rodsloth? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b52dgLGr3L7KYKM.html

Never heard of 100 gecs, but made the mistake of listening to Money Machine.....wtf?

You might want to stop putting cardboard spools in the AMS.

Your opinion on PETG is based on your on how many hours of printing with it? You just say what others have not succeeded with on forums is my guess :) U got it wrong with speed. i can do 1-40mms prints with petg (as this is the main filament i use) that are super. both pretty and strong. 0 fan for those. 0 ringing 0 vfa. i do bolt my machines to a concrete floor and then weigh the chassis with about 15 kg of ballast for motion rigidity. the worst thing u can do is the soft "anti vibration" feet. rigidity and lower speed with a successful motor noise and inputshaping cali these things can do up to about 220mms with 8k accel before they cannot comp anymore. all rigs have their "frequency zones" where they give off vfa, its part of the game. the trick is to find the speeds it does not produce vfa. also to go over the head and tighten ALL u can get at, mine came with four loose screws on the hotend..also changing the fans on the hotend to proper fans from, lets say noctua. along with a lock-piece for the headcover will take away most of the x axis artifacts. Regarding the screws on the bed. you are just an inside person with weak grip imo. i dont find them hard to turn at all. 🤭 ringing on these machines is down to incorrect filament tuning, starting with k-factor. then flow, then temp. with these machines its about flowrate and temp.. not speed. do a maxflowrate test for the temprange you want to print in. that shows u what flow ur hotend can handle with that temp and that filament. then slice and change to flow view. verify that speeds are inline with your just performed flowtest. Gucci.. u need to fiddle with the temps for the cool plate buddy.. i run mine for pla on 55, 0 glue 100% stick. 70% squish. u gotta fiddle to get it to stick to it. i noticed that on bl forums there is an echochamber effect. ppl there will ask you , but why not use stock instead of trying to help you. and others will comment that they have no problems. so i stay away from it. learn from my mistakes mate.. good machines poor community of "masters" currently using this method and i usually make 4 filament profiles for each one. Low flow 1-5, Medium low flow 5-10, Medium flow 10-18 and Full flow 18-33. ( i use a highflow thirdparty hotend to get 33) the temps are also stepped the same way to accommodate the time spent in the meltzone. so low is 245-255, med low 250-255, med 255-260, full 265-275. your milage may vary. welcome to the fff family buddy. u got the right mindset to do this craft, go at it and watch the machine work to learn its secrets is my best advice.

bist du deutscher?

Ew pla