Apologies for the response after so many years since you posted the video. One basic element that I’ve found is the set up of your bandsaw. Very sharp blade; as wide as possible; bearing set as closely as you can to the blade without touching and the fence exactly 90 degrees to the bed. If needed, I will add a tall extension fence so that all of any tall stock is supported. I also joint the bottom of the sandwich so it is 90 degrees to the faces to be cut - that means all of the bottom and all of the side is supported. You mention re- flattening the cut surface as it needs it. I always re-flatten after every cut. I’m not saying it’s better - in fact, I bow to your superior experience - and I will try again your way. Thank you for taking the time to do this. You can teach new tricks to an old woodworker

Thanks for the great question, It sure makes it easier to cut on the inside (meaning the veneer slice is between the blade and the fence, rather than outside the blade). It means you only have to set your fence once when you are cutting a series of veneers, and insures that with good technique, your veneers will all be of equal thickness. Plus its safer - the hand that is pressing the board against the fence is further away from the blade. Easier and safer works for me. Matt

The blade is Lenox Cast Master Carbide. Thanks for watching.

I love it when I learn a great tip on KZfaq, thanks for this one

I recently purchased a MM16 to mainly dimension timber and resaw. This video tip is impressive. This Humboldt County resident thanks you for sharing.

Excellent video Matt! I certainly will use your method.

Excellent process. Thank you

Wonderful tip. Greatly appreciate it.

Great tip! Thanks!

Very helpful! Thanks!

You guys are just so smart :)

Thank you. Good tip for my work. I am introducing veneering into my work, but require more know.

Great tip Thank you!

Brilliant. I have some cherry to cut and was scratching my head as to how to keep it safe once I got to a thin piece. Thank you

Really good tip! Is it better to resaw off inside? I have seen other demos where they cut on outside.

Excellent tip! What type of blade are you using here?

why is the side bearings on the saw fully open ?

I very good tip. I would also recommend adjusting the blade guides before cutting... ;) BR//Peter

Several questions: Preferred band mfg. teeth, set, width; if your blade is wandering, my biggest problem And you are feeding it slowly And you have the blade supports set correctly And the blade is new, , does this indicate the blade tension is too tight or too loose? As with a rubber belt on a motor, is there a deflection gauge measurement? I would love to finally master this.

simple and efficient

thank you

That intro music; thought I was watching woodwishes!

if your blade is drifting, then your fence is not parallel with the direction of the cut and needs to be adjusted. The beauty of this method is that once you set the fence you can make multiple cuts. Hope that helps.

One day I'll have a bandsaw nice enough to resaw! One day....

Shouldn't you cut the veneers the outside?

I give up. Resawwing with a fence, freehand, guides in, guides out, little gripper, grain orientation, blade tension, etc etc etc. Nobody agrees on ONE beat way to resaw wood. That's the answer. Do what ever works for you and your saw and if nothing works just plane the board down to the proper thickness. If you have a beautiful piece that you hate to plane away into sawdust...too bad. Hobbies are expensive.

what would be useful is that bandsaw.

My goodness. I do lots and lots of precise resawing of difficult materials. Do not use this blade. Use a Lenox Tri Master, a Laguna Resaw King, or a Starrett Advanz FS. Do not use a Cast master. The Tri Master is the best on difficult to cut materials. It's finish quality is on par with the Resaw King. Resaw King is great but the carbide is softer, and doesn't have as good a feed rate. But its better on small saws. The Starrett Advanz TS is practically identical to the Tri Master but it leaves a little worse finish on the cut. Which can be helpful for getting the best possible glue bond. The finish from the Tri Master and the Resaw King are actually better than a helical head planer if properly tuned, so you won't get much of a "mechanical tooth" for glue to bite on if going straight into glue up. The carbide blades are expensive but worth it. But seriously. Don't use the blade in this video. It is absolutely horrible compared to the blades I listed

Lots of talk about finger protection, but nothing said about safety glasses.. Hmmm Get some glasses on dude! Nice tips BTW