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Also, wait for a lull in the sets before paddling out. Every surfer should do this regardless of board type. Save your energy for the waves

I'd actually always try to hold on to my board... Some guy told me to not go out if I can't hold on to my board when I started surfing. Still my #1 rule

The pivot around and take the wave to your back with your board tilted 45 up is also a good way to hold your position in medium size white water. With practice you can do It very quickly.

Never ditch your board like they tell you to do in the dive under. If anyone is near you they are going to eat your longboard. Dive under but hold on to the nose, bring it under water with you and kick your ass off. Never ditch your board. Use the first two only.

If a wave is breaking right on you, you can start the roll late, and turtle roll only "half way" so that one rail is facing skyward right when the lip hits, providing a narrower board target. But you keep rolling right at impact, which helps protect you. It's a very refined move, but it has its place in certain conditions and situations.

Great tutorial - so clear and detailed with great underwater images. Thank you!

Excellent advice! Timing the sets really helped me. I also like going halfway out and waiting for cleaner water. It's much easier to wait than to struggle through waves. Ditching your board is the worst option. When you ditch your board, the leash will stretch as it pulls on your leg. The board might come back to you quickly, so make sure you cover your head. It might also hit someone, so be especially careful. Have fun!

A lot of comments here saying never let go of your board. It certainly should not be the defacto response, but sometime it is the only option. As someone who surfs longboards and mid lengths, my piece of advice to shortboarders is if there is a longboarder in the water and s/he is actively trying to paddle away from you when a closeout monster set is coming - don't paddle after them. If you don't surf longboards in big surf, you don't appreciate what the longboarder is trying to do.

I’ve found that when I’m long boarding when a bigger wave is coming putting your weight on the back will obviously make the wave go under u. And if it’s bigger it’ll throw your board up and or make u roll backwards. Which obviously for bigger waves turtle roll tends to be the best option. But I’ve found that actually moving forward pushing your nose doing will make you and your board just go straight through the wave

Very high quality content. Thank you for this!

Two things... 1 When you turtle, the closer you hold the board to the nose, the less leverage the wave will have to rip it out of you grasp. 2 You should never ditch your board. The leash is there as a backup in case you ACCIDENTLY lose control of your board. It's not there so you can bail and endanger everyone behind you. You could seriously injure or even kill someone by just letting the wave take your board. If you are about to get hit by a big wall of white water and turtling is not going to work, you can hop off, point the board to shore, hold the leash where it meets the board, go under and bend your arm so it absorbs the pull when the wave hits. It's not painless, but it's still safer as the board will not fly around as much and will also have a faster recovery

thats great video! thanks a lot for its existence!) all surfing school have to show it to students!

That was a great video. Best is good timing. I always ditch my board but get a massive tug on my ankle, now injured, from the leash. Holding onto the leash strap really helps prevent that. I wish we could develop a better method.

Excellent! Thanks!

This video is wonderfully done. Very thorough for a total novice like me.

Great Video! Beginners should know that its not good to hold the board between themself and a breaking wave while walking out. Longboards offer so much volume the wave just takes you with the board flying back to the beach. I met a person taking bad knee problems from a accident like that.

Good tips in here, some of which I got to learn the hard way. 😆

So helpfull and clear. Thank you so much

Fantastic video, I saw one error I do during the turtle roll, can't wait to try now!!! Thanks guys!!!

Great video tutorial. The camera work and instructions are gerally really effective. My only criticism is the bit about throwing the board away and relying on legrope. Looks ok at this break with no one around but when its a surfschool and they are close together...carnage. Thanks

Thanks! This will be needed when I go surfing with my nsp 7'2 as it has a lot of volume

Great!

Playgounds at Nusa Lembongan...best beginner wave and also barreling on big days.

Maaaaan those waves look fun!

Very cool

When you dive under you can easily grab your boards leash attachment whilst dipping under a wave (unless its huge), that keeps the board right by you

There is a fourth. Dive technique but hug the nose of the board with your strong arm and dive under with the board. Both you and the board belly down, nose and head towards the wave. Works well especially if you can touch bottom with your feet to push through the wave.

If you are punching through the wave on your stomach, it really helps to sort of caterpillar your whole body off the board so that more of the water passes through. If you're going to turn turtle, it helps to have a little wax on the rails near the nose to improve your grip. A few other techniques: You can actually duck dive a lot of longboards just before the wave breaks by knifing through at a 45 degree angle. And rather than ditch your board, point the nose toward shore and grab the leash near the plug (or if you have enough time, flip the board over so the water passes over the convex bottom, but watch the fin...). If you're facing moderate-size whitewater, rather than ditch, get off the board, reach across the nose and cradle the board under your arm as you sink the nose. This works in more waves than you might think, but hang on tight to the opposite rail. Another clever move is to sit on the board, sink the tail so the nose sticks up. Swing the board around as the wave breaks so you sort of slice through the face. Saves a lot of energy. Finally, and this is a really old school technique (pre leash): If you're faced with a wall of whitewater, paddle like hell toward it, jump up on your board and kick it over the whitewater as you jump straight down. If you do it right, the board will clear the whitewater and you can swim to it after you surface...but obvs don't do this with a lot of people around, or in an onshore wind, as much can go wrong...last point: if you really, really have to ditch in the face of a breaking wave, make sure the board isn't perpendicular bc the lip can guillotine it...

Nothing better for getting out back than getting that turtle roll down..)

Wish more people saw this, nothing scarier than a rogue surf board flying at you. Using the Surfers ski lift (the rip at the edge of the break) is my go to, witg caution obviously, it means you have to negotiate currents and often rocks

Read the beach and where it is best to paddle out, look for a spot that isnt breaking hard. Walk out as far as you can to conserve energy. Time a lull in the waves and Paddle hard. If you must in big whitewater, bail. Most waves can be paddled over/through but whitewater is what is going to blow you backwards. Better then bailing is flipping board over , holding onto rail saver part of leash and pulling tail down under water with you , arms extended to avoid contact with board to face. It works, ive only hurt my hand once in many years doing this, its better then bailing. But if its monstrously big out, forget it. In that case, always check your leash before paddling out to ensure it wont break in big surf. Check its connection to the leash plug and make sure the rail saver is indeed on the rail and not the string ( the string on the rail will rip through your board ) only use quality leashes rated for the size of surf your going out in , your life depends on it. Replace your leash at least every 2 years or when it is out of warranty or shows wear. Rinse it with fresh water after use to ensure its intgrity. Then you can feel confident bailing if you must, just dont make a habbit out of it, its dangerous to other surfers and your leash very well could snap and strand you in deadly surf.

I found pushing through the edge of a vertical wall very soon to break, needs anticipation of the slap in your face by the lip that will next lift your body away from the board. So I try to grab the rails firmly and raise into a plank position until the lip is past my feet, to avoid being floated/pushed back towards the tail then wasting time and energy to seek again the correct paddling position.

😂 hola desde Pavones golfito Costa Rica..

watching this after getting absolutely worked yesterday lol

You also can do a modified duck dive by grabbing the nose of your longboard tucked under your arm diving down feet up in the air right before the wave breaks, basically the tail of your board will be sticking straight up and will cut through the wave like a knife.

Your dive under technique can be made better by holding on to the part of the leash closest to where you loop it to the board (with the Velcro). It’ll reduce how much the board drags you with the wave, not be so dangerous to others and increase the lifespan of your leash. As somebody already said, this is a last resort, you should try and surf intelligently using rips

Nice video. can i use the turtle roll in bigger waves 6 to 8 ft on a midlength?? i found it really hard to duck dive and i get smashed all the time!

Instead of ditching the board when approaching a large broken wave, I like to roll the board over and hold like hell onto the nose. The wave seems to push me down and roll over faster. And since I'm holding onto the board I can get back on and paddle that much faster.

My tech that’s never failed me on any wave or board to date: hold board flat on water. Reach across and grab a rail. Keep it flat, and dive through the wave while holding the board. Has literally never failed. Just have to have moderate arm/shoulder strength and a very easy technique.

Thanks for the great video! Question on the turtle roll: during a recent surf lesson the instructor specifically mentioned to keep your head touching the board under water, so that if the board is pushed down by the force of water it doesn’t smash into your face. In the video you mention to keep distance between self and the board. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks!

I've never actually done a turtle roll longboards are too big for me to control and shortboards don't really need it, you can just pierce through yeah and as mentioned in this video, it's actually kind of hard, I should work on it

The answer is to ride a board that is appropriate for the conditions or ride where the conditions are appropriate for your board. Trying to muscle a 10’ longboard through hard breaking big waves is very difficult no matter what technique you use. A board that you can simply push down nose first and smoothly dive under a wave like that is the correct selection.

Hang on to your equipment!

Great video. Funny thinking this guy had to re create every mistake possible. All while he’s missing some good waves. That didn’t go un noticed my friend.

Could you also list the surfspots in the video please? I would love to know where those beautiful places are

2:56-3:01 100% Nusa Lembongan, Bali 😆

Where was this video taken?

What is this spot?

Flip the board when ducking under and hold the nose, water passes over much easier and won’t pull you back

If it’s a bigger day I ditch the board but hold the rail guard close to the board and swim under. That way the board isn’t gonna hit anyone.

I tried turtle roll but my body keeps floating up causing only small spaces left between me and my board, sometimes my body will even push the board out of the water. I tried to sink but I can’t, anyway to fix that??

Make sure you are using a really strong leg rope, ditch the board throw it behind you towards the beach and dive under the waves and drag the sucker. Lol its amazing when you pop up behind a breaker and you can see your 9'6" mal fluttering around on the inshore side of the breaker about 5 times further away than you ever imagined your leg rope could stretch 🤣

Try paddling around the bloddy break .instead of through the breaking waves where people are riDing the waesv

I miss Nusa Lembongan...

Where is this break

Since I still find it pretty hard to catch a wave, I figure I turn around and pretend to paddle to catch it. The wave will just leave me in place, so I can turn around and continue paddling out 😅😅😅

What happens if sharks are under the waves?

If you're thinking of ditching your board the first thing you do is look behind. If someone's there you just have to tough it out and try to keep your board. Throwing it away in someone's face is a no-go. That being said, don't paddle out just behind another longboard!

Get close to the front , take it on the head , show the wave who's boss

Where’s the snow?

I was immediate impressed by the video until I saw the 3rd technique. The first 2 techniques are excellent. But the 3rd should absolutely be ignored. Your board is an immediate danger to other people in the water. NEVER intentionally ditch your board. There is a modification to the 3rd technique that is highly successful though. When you slip off the board, grab the opposite rail of the board up near the nose and bring the board firmly into your armpit. Then foot first dive down under the wave. Another technique not considered in the video is turning your back to the breaking wave, sitting or putting your weight back to the tail of the board. The wave passes by you with little push back.

if you're a grommet sit on the beach and watch experienced surfers.. don't be afraid to ask them...if you are genuine one will take you under their wing and even introduce you to the locals who will teach you respect in the lineup and most likely let you have one on your own all the while laughing because they will remember when they were at your level..

Is no one gonna talk about the kid at 5:15 that just disappeared into the whitewash?

If you have to ditch your board. Make sure there isn't anyone behind you... Cardinal sin.

Don't be an idiot - don't let go of your board - if you're tempted to do the "dive under" technique (DON'T DO IT) - check out Wingnut's technique where he grabs the opposite rail and buries the nose of his board in the water before he gets pummeled - fewer opportunities to HARM SURROUNDING SURFERS. I'm sensitive to this as I have new stitches on my forehead b/c some idiot let go of their board in the surf - DON'T BE AN IDIOT!

Locate the rip tide and let nature do most of the work, but only on a surfboard!!!

Leash

Your "dive under technique" is recognised by most surfers as a last resort and an absolute must is to check that there is no one behind you that might get hit by your board. If there is you must not throw your board away. Yes it's tough, that's why it is a last resort. Failing to mention this is irresponsible.

Never ditch your board ever on purpose!

Tip one, don’t ride a longboard Tip two, if you must ride one they are for waist high mellow peelers only

You really need to think about other surfers if you dump your board. Absolutely last option.

I dove under a wave like a b life guard/with my 9.2 behind. An old guy/like me? GAVE ME A VERBAL ABOUT IT. That was it. I just went in and watched with my wife. Guess that was the last time i tried my Hobbie.

Ditch your board as a last resort. With practice you’d be surprised how much board you can duck dive.

Got my nose broken by some stupid Japanese tourist "ditching"

Das brett loslassen 😂 wie dumm ist der tipp denn. Und sack gefähtlich für alle anderen.😅

Turtle does not work, even when you do it perfecto, best advise is study the waves and wait for a calm to paddle out.

I didn't know that ditching your board was a technique.

It’s an Eskimo roll.

What break? Your joking, YEAH

Never let your board go or don’t go surfing. If your board comes at me in the surf you can bet I gonna be pissed . You will be called out. Bad advice!

Ditching the board? are you seriously...

this is a terrible video. first- do not let go of your board. second- do not let go of your board. third- see points one and two. fourth- if you can't figure out how to get out in such small waves you should try a different sport. in any real line up you will be sent home for this kind of foolishness. a useful video would show how to properly get a longboard out in large surf as opposed to promoting dangerous behavior in tiny surf.