Chicago Local 1 Finish Carpenter. You cope because it adds not only strength but as you show in the video over time with wood movement coped inside corners wont open up like you demonstrate on your 45 degree cut inside corner

MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. kzfaq.infoUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo

If I could make a suggestion... when cutting miters for baseboard that aren’t a standard detent (like a 45) it’s better to cut the first piece on that 46 degree and then flip the other piece of base upside down and cut that piece on the same 46 rather than swinging the saw to the 46 on the opposite side. You’re guaranteed to get the same miter by flipping the one side upside and cutting it, rather than hoping you set your saw exactly the same on the other side.

A tip on the paint grade nail hole filling: Bondo works but has a very short working time, meaning you will constantly be mixing small batches as you go along. Instead, use automotive glazing putty. As an example, 3M makes three grades of putty that come in large tubes and don't require mixing. My favorite is their "Acryl Blue Glazing Putty". I actually started using it as a filling putty for building scale models. The "Blue" goes on smoothly and sands to a feather edge. It does shrink slightly, but if you dab a little more on the hole, you're fine. It also sands much easier than Bondo.

90 degree angles don't exist in nature or in my house, great video.

I know I am late to the game on comments. I’ve built hundreds of houses. The reason I coped inside miters was: 1. It made a nice corner easy to finish. 2. It allowed the wood that was being coped to expand and contract without blowing the seams. 3. For crown moulding it would hold your trim in place while you nailed it. One of my favorite ways to fill holes was with some dry drywall compound and mixed with filling putty. It would stay pliable longer so you could fill a lot of holes before it dried and it was easy to sand in paint grade materials. Bondo is incredibly hard and hard to sand. I do not recommend doing that unless you need a level 5 finish. I have used bondo to fill seams in large outside trim moldings because you can sculpt it to match the profile and it prevents the seam separating. Great video.

Wow ! I've been a finish carpenter for over 7 years and I actuality learn some tips from your video, thank you, I'll be using them for sure 😊

The tape trick for wood filler is great. 40 years as a carpenter and still learning. Thx

Blacktail videos are the only videos I press the like for, he never asks for a like or sub without giving something first, I'll always give a like now just cause it doesn't feel like he forced us to drop a like

For a guy who is an average DIY guy may be a touch below at some and a touch better at others, but actually build houses for a living as a general contractor one of the best trim videos I’ve ever seen

This is a fantastic video. I'm a DIY/Homeowner and I'm redoing all the baseboard in my home because around these here parts you can't find a contractor (they're all very busy) and to be honest I'm looking forward to it. I purchased all the tools and the wood (hardwood baseboard) and I'm starting right after Thanksgiving holiday. Your video answered a ton of questions...and better still it was understandable and easy to follow. I swear, every issue you addressed is in my home. Thanks for the advice.

I painted for a while, we found that we'd have to fill nail holes, patch damage, and of course caulk the top seam and whatever other gaps so pre-painting the first coat was fine but we preferred to do the final coat once they were installed.

I wish I’d seen this a year ago. An outstanding furniture carpenter slips right into being a great finishing carpenter. Despite being disappointed with not having this for my basement, it is fun, even inspiring, to watch. Bravo Cam.

I greatly appreciate your patience. I thought I was patient until i saw you using a eye-glasses screwdriver to fill all your presumably thousands of brad holes. i am sure it looks incredible. i would lose my mind trying to do it.

There is a time and place for inside miters, and that is when your installing economy grade painted mdf casings that will be caulked on the top. Cutting the inside miters at 44 will keep the face tight and a small gap at the top where you are caulking anyways. Properly nailed the joint won't move and you can install 40% faster with no visible difference. Definitely not for high quality installations or stain grade material, but there is a time and place. 25 years as a carpenter has taught me that sometimes the best value for a client is not spent coping cheap baseboards. I like your pre glued miters around the end wall, I will definitely try that, I usually only do that for small pieces like behind a bifold door

Been a finish carpenter since 2003 and avid KZfaq enjoyer since 2011! Great video sir! Respect 🙌

Jeremy! I love watching base board install. I'd like to see a future video going over other tough install spots.

If you want a perfect color match for filling nail holes grab some of the fine sawdust from the boards you were cutting, mix it with your adhesive (I use slightly diluted carpenter's glue and make a thick paste), fill and sand.

Phillip??? This was the best trim video I ever saw! Awesome tips in a short amount of time!!!

for the coping portion of the video, seeing him cut just one piece of the mdf sent some serious memories flooding back of my dad showing me how to do this when i was growing up

Can't believe I found this today. On my second stain grade molding project. So many friggin' vids for molding and crown molding, but this is the first video I've found with tips for stain grade. You made my day. I literally just levelled up right now. Subscription entered with a like on the side.

Omg! That painter’s tape trick for mdf is perfect! I have a whole house worth of trim to do and nail holes are always the worst part! Thank you! - G

Wallace . Filling nail holes is the bane of my existence . I absolutely love that painters tape trick .

Excellent explanations. I had to convince my husband that we should paint the baseboards before installation, now I can SHOW him your video. Thanks so much!

Another advantage of copes is that you don’t need to be as accurate, specifically on longer pieces. You can cut them 1/16” long or so and flex the board into place. If you tried that with a miter, it’s more likely to dig into the drywall and the insides of the miters won’t line up, resulting in an ugly joint.

Brooks, The idea of using painters tape before shooting the nails in was genius . Thanks

Bob, nice job. I’ve been a carpenter for 40 years and I have to say I’ve learned from your video. I really like the tape on the mdo trick

Very helpful, easy to understand. Adding to my saved videos for when I need it!

Actually the best way to finish nail holes with paint grade trim is painters putty. Roll a ball up and push it into the hole and break it off then smoothen it out. I did it for years. No need for sanding and it holds paint with no problem 👍. Great video I really like how you explained getting the correct angle. Seen so many people go back and forth trying to figure it out on the saw lol.

My cope method is to do a 45 cut opposite of his you would normally do an inside miter, flip the piece upside down and remove the bulk of material with second cut (angle is opposite when you flip), trace profile with side of sharpened pencil, then dremel to the contour. Works awesome. I grew up in a finish carpenter shop and my dad did it more like in the video. I learned the new technique just a couple years ago and it works great, anybody can do it.

Holy cow. I hope to fix up an older house one day, and I know that baseboards can make a huge difference in how the house looks. I'm definintly going to come back to this video, because these tips seem awesome. Thanks for putting it together!

Thank you! I have watched a lot of videos trying to fix the sloppy baseboards in the house. Your video was the most concise and had a lot of great tips!

Fantastic tips. I learned so much from this. Would love to see a follow up explaining how to finish with caulk.

Oliver or Taylor. I like the blue tape and filling in nail holes. Genius.

Great video, thanks. Yes, walls are never straight. I install drywall screws about 1” up from the floor, about every 3’ and especially at the corners. Then I use a plastic straight edge and adjust the screws to the vertical plane of the wall. This keeps the bottom of the baseboard from being pulled in too far. When fitting the corners I will adjust the screws as I am fitting the baseboard for a perfect fit.

AMAZING!!!! I’m super OCD about stuff like this as well and i was always told no one cares about the details. I always told them I care!

Man, I wished I had watched this video before I did my baseboard a few months ago. Another thing. An old credit card (with NO raised numbers) worked well when applying Bondo or lightweight spackle to the hail holes.

Loved you response to this weeks troll. "Got the epoxy for free" 😂 😆

A better way on small outside miters is to tape them first. Then you can fold them together like a hinge

Damn. This is approachable and achievable. Super appreciated

I'm not a pro, but have done a lot of baseboards for myself and for friends, and so have watched a lot of videos on it. This is THE BEST compilation I have seen! Thank you!

The sad part is that no matter how beautiful that baseboard looks now, in a few years someone will have the brilliant idea of painting it white...

When you are rounding over those corners on the outside corner, get some normal wood glue in there first, then hit it with some 120 grit paper. That will fill the glue with saw dust to match the material you are using. Then use the larger radius screw driver to round over the corner as you did.. you wont see a thing and the glue will increase the strength of the bond.

Rupert. There are some great tips there, stuff I'd never thought of! Thanks!

This was a great fine on New Year's Day thank you I've been a carpenter for specialized again remodels for about 30 years I have probably ran tens of thousands of feet of trim and I picked up some great nuggets

The painters tape trick is great. My least favorite part, especially w crown, is filling the nail holes. I'll have to remember that in the future!

I've found that patching holes of any kind, nail or otherwise, in wooden and mdf trim is done best with stainable wood filler. Hint: sometimes they require sawdust, so save that after cutting.

Best video I have seen on the internet regarding this subject. Best!!!!!

One of the nicest finish trim video I've see. Great tips!

Regarding the feathery (breakable) little part of the cope in cases where the baseboard has a small roundover at top: a fairly easy alternate is a jack miter at top. After you make the vertical miter cut as usual to start the cope process, start your straight cope cut from the bottom of the work piece, but stop cutting just before you get to the roundover. Leave that short bit of the miter in place there. Next, drop the coped piece onto the baseboard it will butt to, so that the little mitered tab you left on the coped piece is sitting on top. Mark that miter line with a knife, and then use a chisel or knife to remove the bit of baseboard under the jack miter so the coped piece can drop down into place. Not very hard to do, and you get the overall benefits of a cope without fussing with or breaking the delicate top of the coped piece. (BTW, I picked up this finish carpentry technique and many more over the years from Gary Katz at This Is Carpentry. The guy is a virtual encyclopedia of pragmatic best practices.)

Great eye for detail. There are a lot of “good enough guys” out there.

I really like the taping over the nail spot. Brilliant!

I have no idea why I watched since I don't need to do baseboards, but I loved it.

Wayne. No idea, that guess just popped into my head. 🤞

I’d struggled also filling nail holes and finally came up with something I think works best. I fill a glue syringe with wood filler and just slightly over fill the hole. You can then go back with a chisel or sandpaper. Mostly I like the control the syringe affords me because it keeps the filler from spreading away from the nail hole.

Hey there, I'm a trim carpenter out of the Dallas area. Coping, though not as commonly seen in homes anymore is useful in achieving a high amount of strength in what would be an otherwise weak miter joint. This not only adds strength to a inside corner but also allows a bit of play for the angle and can help creat a surprisingly tight fit when the piece that is coped is just a tiny bit longer that what it measures at. The reason for this is that the cope is allowed to push into the uncoped piece ever so slightly. There are other ways of achieving a tight inside corner with a miter but they may not hold up as well over time, causing the bottoms of the miters to push further inward into the gap between the sheetrock and the slab. Copes are also excellent when you need to join two different profiles like you may see in remodels where that run of material may be different or just not exist anymore. You can create a cope through a variety of methods, from using a cope saw, or a jigsaw or similar to the method used in this video, it's mostly dependant upon the material used. For instance MDF is very soft and can easily be ground out with the step bit as shown but if you have something like oak, you may want to use a jigsaw with a sharp scrolling blade. On another note, the cap is always a great idea, especially when using base that is flat on top there are other profiles that have a cap integrated into them like B11, but they look cheap. Typically when we do a "flat trim" style (where all base and casing is made from 3/4" material and is made to look like a seamless flat surface) we will also run a panel moulding (or PM for short, typically PM5 or PM6) on top of the base and sometimes around all the casing. This really adds some fine detail to an otherwise basic edge and makes it pop. Cool video though man, your base looks great!

Brilliant tips! Wish I had seen this video when baseboards were first installed. Will definitely follow these for the refresh project.

What I learned watching this video is as a finish carpenter I'm really, really good at what I do.

Sapiel base boards is amazing in a world cursed with MDF everything.

My new favorite channel. Why has it taken me so long to find you

Barton… of all the great info you provide… the thing I always enjoy the most is your responses to hecklers/detractors. The ‘free epoxy’ one at the end of this video has to be my favorite. Thanks for your videos.

Great video. Helping someone do some renovations on an old home and this had me asking them questions I would never think to ask.

Vinyl spackle is the way to go for paint grade nail holes

great tips- glad you included the last one with painters tape!

I have watched many channels with this kinda content but you lay it out well and gained my subscription.. i wish i found this channel before i did some of my work around my home. Definitely picking up some of the tools you listed thanks.

I remember years ago, my husband had to help his boss with the remodel of the store he worked in. He came home one night complaining about how he had to crawl on the floor painting the baseboards. I said “Why the hell weren’t the baseboards painted before you guys put them on the walls? You just made that job SO much harder for yourselves!” They should’ve consulted with the wife who worked at Home Depot for a couple of years & asked questions & paid attention. Lol

So many helpful tips in this video, I can't believe how much I learned!

Horatio. Awesome information. I've done a few miles of trim back in the day, and most of your tips worked then as well. Cope is king!

So when making a transition for a different floor thickness, it’s best to use a stop block in my opinion which allows you to have a different base board height. Great tips 👍

Jackson. No question, just wanted to say thank you for this video. I've been trying to decide between stain grade and paint grade trim now that I'm done installing a house full of hardwood flooring. I think I'll go with the stain grade. Also, I had no idea that baseboard caps were a thing. Nice install.

Amazing how people still use baseboards and casings . Great tips for those homes with existing baseboards to repair and keep that old classic look...as well as other woodwork! Btw, that wood type looks great.

Great video and tips. Nice to see a pro as good as you with cuts and nicks on your hands. Misery loves company.

If you are doing your own trim, you can take all the time you need and get it perfect. If you do it professionally, that’s not always an option

We aren't building a piano lol I'm going to use that one. New sub👷👍

Alexander and I love those baseboards. Beautiful work.

Maddux, Love the video! Thanks for sharing your times.

depends on how much the customer is willing to pay if i do miters or cope, production builders want it done fast so you do miters, it all depends on the job

Thomas, what is the minimum thickness you would comfortably make a table from?

I never comment or even like & sub but this video deserves all 3! excellent work and tips. thank you from one home builder to another.

Thanks Cam for the carbide bur tip , need to get one ! I was a trim carpenter out in Virginia horse country. We used to install 12 step crown mouldind in these high ceiling mansions! Lots of coping 😂 love your channel! Thanks

John, that reply to the troll is priceless lmao 😂 Cheers 🍻

paint grade trim use paint grade spackle, automotive bound is fine but they make stuff for nail holes.

I'm just here to admire that beautiful ribbon Sapele!!

Vinyl/rubber base installer here. I occasionally dip my toes in millwork base and that corner tool/“glue before applying” tip are awesome, wish I knew about those before. Great video. Also bad walls are the bane of my existence.

wheres the spotlight segent? I loved the last 2 you suggested

"For the big budget....I went and spend $6 of my OWN money...." oh, brother I love it. You've definitely spent plenty of time in aviation, where earning a small fortune started with a large one.

My go-to channel for relaxing. Thank you for such great content

Thomas. Great video, as always! Always helpful and informative.

Middle name...🤔. I'm going guess "Wood Stallion".

Kinder, Küche, Kirche.... не так давно это было единственное, что дозволялось женам))), а теперь им дозволено даже оценивать результат трудов мужа. не справедливо как-то))

I have many happy customers with basic mdf baseboards and basic 45 degree inside corner cuts. Regular dap is fine, it’s not a lazy approach. Only a bad approach if you apply to much over a small nail hole, or leave excessive dap on the baseboards. When using a small amount and blending in, then wait for dap to dry, and finish with new paint coat, all customers are amazed at how great the baseboards look and how the compliment the new beautiful flooring. I like Your approach and detail. After watching video, this reassures there is usually more than one way to get a job well done. It’s preference and available resources that often determine what approach or technique is used. Nice new baseboards and Happy New Year!

I regret that I can only Like this video once! Great tips!

Middle name is “Von” for sure...every episode, “Hi, it’s Cameron Von Blacktail-Studio...” I rest my case...

Painting is actually my day job, before I was specialized specifically in paint tho, I was a builder/trim carpenter. Having done it both ways, finishing millwork Before & After installation I have to say, for a natural wooden looking trim I totally agree with youZ finish first. However, with a painted trim, Mdf or something similar I find it best to install raw. Then you putty nail holes and seams, and yes for painted millwork, Caulk it to the walls. Then I like to paint the top edge where I caulked with the wall color & comeback after that dries and make my line with frog tape and paper on Both top and bottom sides of the trim and spray it out. Then what your left with (assuming you’ve done everything correctly) is a flawlessly painted millwork package, completely seamless from end to end. Again, that is only for painted millwork. So I supposed I 1/2 agree with you lol

Hey cam one last comment tonight I just skip back to the baseboard tricks for everybody.. I am a professional trim Carpenter/cabinet maker.. all the advice you gave was pretty damn good. the one tiny bit of advice I would give for coping.. is once you cut your angle take a mechanical pencil and just run it very lightly sideways on that sharp edge so you can see it better.. other than that let's pretty much how I do my coping anymore I used to use a coping saw but a Dremel really works good! All the detail you can possibly put into stained hardwood trim is worth every second to make it look as perfect as you can!! just like everything else you do amazing attention to detail is why you're so successful!!!

Great Video and nice job on the trim!!! Someone may have said this already but for for cheap putty that looks great I like to mix saw dust from the trim cuts with a little of the stain used on the boards mixed with wood glue to make a paste.

Lol on the comment back for the troll of the week! I cant believe anyone can watch these videos and leave that negative of a comment. Keep it up man, you are a true craftsman.

Best compliment I had as a young carpenter on a housing estate was, a painter was complaining about another painter who had nabbed another house I had fitted out. I said "why what difference does it make", he said, "no filling".

Brooks? I definitely need to save this for my future home projects!! Stay safe, take care.

This was a great video because I'm going to be remodeling my house and all those Tips you gave and or referenced, will be invaluable to me.