Learn more about getting bass in a small enclosure here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rJqidM6pyNGWj4U.html

I listen to a wide spectrum of music genres and while I notice my preffered sealed enclosures aren’t as strong with the deep bass of rap, I can’t sacrifice their accuracy with percussion in rock and other genres. Investing in better subs with appropiate amplification can compensate for the lower efficiency. Thanks for another great video.

I'm 52 and from 1993 until 2015 I ran sealed. In 2015 I bought my first ported enclosure for two alpine type S. Man what a difference. Ported is the way to go IMO

All I learned from this video is you like numbers, and don't put sub in small cabinet.

I am a sound quality guy but love the deep bass also. I have a 2012 GMC Sierra and made a sealed enclosure for my Skar EVL-10 to fit under the front arm rest between my front seats. I am powering it with my Rockford Fosgate 1200-1D. I listen to literally everything music and this performs VERY VERY well!

This is a nice video to show how a acoustic suspension box can deliver different results depending on box volume. Also a great woofer to use. This is one of your best DIY!

No question you're right that the properly designed ported enclosure is going to outperform the sealed at low frequency. However, the extreme difference shown on the graph looks more like the result of testing a driver that prefers a ported enclosure. I suspect it's a bit less dramatic when testing speakers that are specifically built for sealed applications. Also, you can EQ boost a sealed sub (within reason) all the way down to the lowest frequencies. You can't boost a ported sub below it's port tuning because it lacks the air suspension to dampen it's movement and it will likely be destroyed.

The diminishing output of a sealed box can be offset by "room gain" (or cabin gain), for virtually flat extended deep output. The 450w 10" Ultimax performs "better" in a 1.5ft^3 ported box than in a 0.75ft^3 sealed box, but then a 600w 12" Ultimax could fit a 1.5ft^3 sealed box. A 4ft^3 ported box fits a 600w 12" Ultimax, but then a 4ft^3 sealed box could fit a 1kw 18" Ultimax.

Great video!!! This makes so much sense. I have a ported box for my subwoofers and I would never use a sealed box for them because the difference in output is huge. However, for the midbasses in my doors, sealed would be perfect. It won't take a lot of space and since they are running from 80 hz to 800 hz, I don't need to worry about it getting low. But for subwoofers, I would 100% use ported enclosures.

Thank you for such an informative experiment. Being a bass lover and had built numerous speakers and subs for past 20 yrs here in Singapore, I would like to share these observations: - MDF wood made enclosures needs much lesser bracing than plywood enclosures to sound equally good. - MDF Wood doesn't do well in wet, rain or outdoor conditions. - Sealed subs produced the least spectrum decay bass, typically less than 10ms aka 'tight' or 'defined' bass. Comparing to ported subs designs, bass seems much lesser. - Most ported subs are capable of producing more bass than enclosed subs. However, the bass has longer decay around 10-20ms. Which most folks deem bass as 'fuller' sounding. Seems like a little bass decay may not be such a bad thing . - passive radiator subs produced the most bass among the 3 types of enclosure but has the longest bass decay, usually 20ms & above. Some may find this type of bass undefined or 'boomy'. Still this type of subs are great for outdoor. Bass can be felt further than the other 2 types of subs. - Lastly, if space is limited, I like to used sealed subs with Apex Aural Exciter+Big Bottom. This is often used in P.A to extend the bass decay to sound fuller without increasing volume. Fav subs: Cerwin Vega 15" drivers, Das Audio PA 18" drivers and Magnum extra long throw 12" drivers, Eminence 15" drivers & Audax 8". Software used: Winspeakerz.

Im digging the woodworking content. Its great when hobbies overlap

I've got 2 jbl 15inch subs... Ported box...bass works box ... It's ran at 1800 watts. I definitely love em. They are like a free massage ❤❤❤

A friend of mine back in the 90’s had a new Chevy standard cab. He had two 10’s in a box that took up the space behind the seat. Even moved the seat forward but was still small for two 10’s. He went to a stereo shop to see about adding two more 10’s I kept telling him it’s to small for the two he had now. He had to put a big amp just to make it sound decent

Nice video showing frequency comparisons. One thing to consider is that sealed enclosures generally produce less distortion below the box's resonant frequency than ported enclosures. Ported boxes don't provide driver damping below the enclosure's resonant frequency, allowing the driver to vibrate unhindered.

I kerf and port every enclosure including the port. Haven’t met a sub that sounds cleaner in a sealed enclosure! I also am a fan of fit the sub to the vehicle because they don’t fit the car around the subs! Awesome video! Excellent job explaining the difference in enclosure size and why experienced builders don’t just guess!

Thank you for the great video. In winisd don't forget to encourage your viewers to look at group delay when comparing two models. The sealed enclosure will handly outperform most any ported design when judged on basis of a metric that quantifies transient response, but will need more drivers/excursion if it is to stack up to the ported design in steady state SPL. The casual listener is accustomed to late bass, but will prefer "tight" bass, all other things being equal, 100% of the time. Late bass isn't phase aligned well with the harmonics of the waveform being reproduced. Its the kid that always lags behind riding bikes around town. With complex numbers, like Winisd most certainly uses, there are at minimum two plots that define a response. Magnitude and phase. It is probably worth the small amount of time to play around with the parameters in the planning phase of a project, maybe sacrifice low end extension to give a better transient response, at a minimum know what the tradeoff is in simulation land.

Ported is always more efficient and much louder bass. Whether its oval port or rectangular the sound is the most reinforcement of the bass frequencies. Passive radiator, band pass and sealed boxes do not have the high decibel reinforcement of the bass frequencies as ported. With ported you essentially double the maximum watts handling of your speaker, regarding the bass. With a ported box, your speaker cone excursion is far less, cleaner less distorted bass, and the bass is double the decibels, of any box design. The only issue is the ported box can sound boomy. You will need a tuned box with proper insulation to cut down on a boomy sound.

This was an extremely interesting and well thought out video. Alot of great information for box builders learning the craft. Cant wait for the next one

Great video explaining how the basics work. Please can you do this test again with all 3 boxes but now put in the fabric that fools the subwoofer into thinking it is in a bigger box. I see other comments about doing a ported one, which would be fun, but just adding some speaker fabric (don't know technical name) into it, how much does it increase the perceived volume. Since the boxes are already made, not much has to be changed.

Awesome video. It's rare to see a sub that performs so we'll sealed and ported, but I'm even more surprised by how much better the ported enclosure performs here.

Thanks for the video! It's like you knew exactly what I wanted to see. I've always thought it would be fun to build a few boxes and compare them. **(Sorry for the wall of text lol, it makes sense in my head but as I type it, it might get a bit disorganized and lose a bit of my intended meanings)** One thing to touch on is the sealed box for the UM10 (and just about any sub) is when comparing these sealed enclosures, it's good to keep an eye on cone excursion. I bought the sealed kit for my UM10 so the box was 1.5 cubic feet. Technically 1.5 cubic feet and a 1 cubic foot box would perform identically. Only difference is efficiency of the bigger box would add a dB or so to the sensitivity around 20Hz. Which personally to me is insignificant and almost pointless. If you look at cone excursion for them, I'll look at 20Hz for this example, the cone excursion for the 1cuft box is touching xmax on 500w. While it takes 400w to reach xmax on the 1.5cuft box. So while you can get an extra 1dB on 100w less power, in reality that extra output you'll likely never hear. And you gain more the lower it plays, but this sub isn't going to do that well under 20Hz, and the cone excursion rises fast in the 1.5cuft box to the point it physically can't perform better than the 1cuft box under 20Hz. I know you didn't go bigger than a 0.85cuft box in the video. But in the end the 0.85cuft box after looking at it in WinISD is probably the biggest box you need for the UM10 sealed. Because any bigger won't really give you any big additional improvements due to xmax limits on rated power. Which you basically already shown in the video with the small vs medium showing a much smaller difference. Touching on the ported part. You've already seen my PR box for my UM10 but it basically acts like ported and going from sealed to that new (not new these days but you get what I mean) box it was like a whole new sub. Blew my mind with the low end I got out of it the first time I played it. Sound quality didn't get worse. IMO it sounds 10x better being able to cover a wider bandwidth. Anyway, sorry for the rambling lol. Thanks again for the entertaining video!

Not only you explained it well, but you took the time to get a loan and purchase the mdf. 🤪. On a serious note, my single cab had the largest enclosure that would fit and it was still too small so I bought irrigation 3” pipe and cut it into several lengths ( tested all three to find the optimal one) to create a ported enclosure. I ran the pipe along the back wall of the cab and towards the passenger side. Ironically enough even though it sounded louder it still had the punchy tight bass of a sealed enclosure and I added another one. Tuning for a specific vehicle is monotonous and sometimes it sucks but it’s 💯 rewarding when you nail it!

What a lovely channel with so much knowledge to share !!! ❤

IMO sealed, OB, or IB are the clear winners for sound quality _IF_ you use an appropriate driver. The trick is that the market is so heavily skewed toward tuned cabinets that the selection of such drivers is limited. For deep bass in a sealed enclosure you need both low fs and rather high Qts. That is to say the huge magnets that sell so well are contraindicated. The other thing that is often not considered is room or cabin gain. If f3 is significantly below the frequency where room gain starts you get a nasty bloom or bloat in bass output and then when the 4th order roll-off kicks in the bottom falls out. For some applications this is no big deal but for serious music listening it can be a problem. In a sealed enclosure the 2nd order roll-off is closer to the room gain boost curve so the final result is often more natural. I also think that in general (up to a point) you are better off getting your displacement from larger cone area than from excursion.

Sealed vs ported depends on the use, room setup etc. And sealed can definently go as deep and as loud as a bassreflex. But it requires more power and tuning. But if done right they do performe better for many uses. But it's cheaper and easier with bassreflex. That’s why really high-end subs more often are sealed while cheaper almost always are poeted. With exceptions both ways of course.

Great video!! I would love to see you run the same test with the subwoofers inverted And see what kind of different this would make.

I have primarily only ran sealed boxes in all my car audio systems since the 90s up until recently. ( except i did had a prefab 4th order with a Pair of low power Kenwood 10s back in the day once). Currently Running an NVX vcw12 in a skar ported box around 2 cubes net tuned to about 35hZ. Output is decent but doesn’t hit every note on different types of music. Mainly sound best with rap and rebass music and i realize its a prefab and a custom or built to spec box would prob perform better. Always liked the accurate sound of the sealed boxes so just ordered a 1 cube box to try sealed again before deciding which box type to go with when going custom built enclosure for a pair of these subs wired to 1 ohm on a soundqubed 3k amp.

Nice video! Just to add wjat I learned from a successful DIYer in a forum. Small enclosures can be beneficial for sealed enclosures if one has enough power and a DSP at hand. For given RMS power rating and linear excursion (xmax or Klippel tested) there is a volume such that the will reach it's x max at maximal power but never overshoot. Using this volume you can get the most output of the woofer at "higher" frequencies, which are limited due to power handling and still get maximal output down low without overexcursion. It requires a DSP and enough powet though. But I think it's what many commercial companies do (SVS etc) sinve their sealed subwoofer are usually quite small

Idea for a video! I'd love to see what the actual measured differences are between a ported enclosure and a sealed enclosure besides the benefit of extension and/or output from the vented. I guess my question is how much do things like group delay change the response inside a vehicle...

Buddy, you are amazing! Thank you for this video, yes, I'm subscribed and I like your videos. You are saying and showing so many important specifications and tricks, that opens my mind towards all questions I have ever had. Excellent channel! Thank you!.

Extremely enlightening! Thank you!

U-line has a double sided tape dispenser I’ve had one for about 12 years now they work awesome

Had 2 kicker 10’s in small truck enclosure- sounds great but thru the years it was time to buy new ones- Bought the same kicker 10’s but in a big ported kicker box- same 600rms on 600rms kicker amp Holy shhh what a difference- If u buying subs get the biggest box u can for that sub- and get an epicenter

Excellent video, clear ! thumbs up!

You gotta love that SAWSTOP fence!

Love the Dayton woofers , great sub 👌

I completely agree. In 2012, I had a 12W7 I initially put it in a ported box made AV Priority specifically for the w7s tuned at 37hz and I was happy with it. But I was curious about how it would sound in a sealed box. So I ordered a sealed one from that same guy. Box delivered transfer the W7 and the first song I played was “I want to know what love is “ by foreigner and in 2 seconds I noticed the difference. They sound the same but the base of the sealed enclosure was shorter which means loss of lower frequencies. I removed it the next day. And never again. If I have a small space; I will use an 8” in a ported. By the way, the boomy and tight difference in my opinion is relative to the Subwoofer. I listen to varieties from Waka Flaka, Toto, Sade and Metallica and have good ears. If you have a good subwoofer and have sqf: go ported.

Glad you are finally using REW! These different box comparisons are really valuable. (would like to see less smoothing.) REW is super powerful. I hope you experiment with all the other tools it has

Wow, that router table is worth its weight in hold.! 😊 Great Video!!

Love your videos man

just subscribed, thanks for the videos, I have learned a lot today, I am going to get a subwoofer for my Fiat 500, tiny little car with a tiny little trunk with a tiny little space, so I need a tiny little sub to make a huge sound. thanks again for sharing.

Justin is always a wealth of information.

I have a 12" Dayton Ultimax in an Goldwood box of ~1.25ft^3 (2ft^3 is recommended). Performance is quite satisfactory with some EQ correction. The wedge-shaped box barely fits on the passenger floorboard of my truck. With the sub up front, I can low pass the sub @160hz without upsetting the stereo imaging. I also use Dayton indoor/outdoor speaker pods ON MY DASH. I modified the pods with 2" mids, and mounted Dayton 1"x4" ribbon tweeters on the pods with zip ties. I just run the wires up my dash - it looks totally red neck, but sounds glorious with 4 x 75w stereo amp & 700w sub amp. Dayton (& Part Sex Press) has some great DIY gear. I've pounded these speakers daily in my car parked outdoors for 6 years and they still shine, even the delicate little ribbon tweeters.

What you don't mention is that every car/truck will have what they call "cabin gain" which boosts the low frequencies so that in fact a very small box can sound very good in a specific vehicle. The best non boomy bass I ever had was an 8 inch woofer in a sealed box with a QTC of 1 and a FC of 60 Hz. It could easily play to 20 Hz and below in my Honda CRX. Using Mike Oldfield's The Songs of Distant Earth CD, the bass on the track Ascension sounded excellent and extended below even what my house subwoofer could play.

I have added ports to the tiny wedge flea market boxes. I fitted a piece of 2" pvc pipe in it about 10 or so inches long. The length of the port is all that mattered to getting the bass right. I was limited on space and the solution worked out nice.

my problem on ported box on my cheap computer speaker watching movies is to loud and if playing in the lower volume no bass at all so i tried to remove the port and sealed it and finaly i enjoy watching movies . i dont want to annoy neighbor specially watching at night . GREAT VID !

Should have been tried the sound. Great information video..

I like this channel, a lot of tips regarding electronic hobbies.👍

I put my threaded inserts in from the bottom of baffle and use longer screws to avoid the head of inserts not being flush. You can thread screws from either end of the inserts so it works great because if you need to take screws out when you turn screws counter clockwise since they are threaded through the non head end of insert it doesn't loosen insert but tries to tighten it

Such a great intro. You cover what you need to know. The rest is just trial and error.

Thanks!

nice testing. larger probably useful in the bass hobby, only around 2db difference at 20hz from S to M box. finally got to DIY more than 10 years ago a Sony Xplod 12" 300 watts ported. turns out it was too much bass than I ever dreamed of and poor with beats, feels slow while taking out a huge chunk of trunk space. good thing the industry has a lot power in such small packages while being cheaper with inflation.

Best system I ever had in a vehicle was an SQ box sealed for 4 12s on 4000 watts, could play everything extremely accurately with insane output and hit lower than a ported SQ box I also had that was tuned to 30hz

Thanks for this informative video!!

I have 3 types of 10" subwoofers in my listening room. 1. a downfiring powered subwoofer. 2. a Kerf Subwoofer and 3. a Sealed subwoofer. I am using Revel 10" drivers in all of them. To my personal taste, the best sound in the Sealed subwoofer, I just have it because a good friend gave it to me, after over 35 years of buying and building subwoofers, I can tell you that my last subwoofer ( the sealed one ) that I modified, is, by far, the best in sound performance, took me all these years to find out. Really worth to have sealed subwoofers, BUT they tend to be bigger than the others and need at least 30% more power.

Great video, once again! 👍 I know this didn't apply to what you displayed but one thing I did notice when you were showing the specs of theb recommended enclosure, Parts-Express always gives the ported Fv and the F3 but they never show the Fb of the enclosure. 🤷 It bugs me. LoL. The F3 of 22Hz is phenomenal out of a box with an Fv of 1.55 cu/ft! 👍

I have a 4 6.5 3-way coaxial speakers sealed and they sound great but not low. I dont use both at the same time to feel and compare sealed and ported and i cant decide which is better. Anyways thanks for another helpful content 😁

Congratulations! You've just demonstrated the law of diminishing returns.

Absolutely enjoyed this test, just subbed, no pun:)

SVS- hold my beer

I’ve also noticed in winISD that as the sealed box gets larger, the subwoofer gets closer to its Xmax for a given power input

Very educative

Great video, loaded with useful information.

that is pretty similar woofer to the 10" i bought: SB Acoustics SW26DBAC76-8 10’’ Aluminum Cone Shallow Subwoofer. my box is 0.6Cubic Feet. i would consider that pretty tiny. did some WinISD and made the thing. not much air inside with all the bracing and 3 pounds of stuffing. it did measure in my small room pretty flat to 20hz, but it did not sound that to me so i did a lot of dsp to it. now it sound like flat to 20hz and 15hz at reduced volume. all with 100w amp mind you, that surprised me. and i matched the 8ohm driver with 8 ohm amp output.

Great video! Thank you

This is extremely interesting information thanks for sharing

Some drivers are designed far small boxes like car audio subwoofers, and home audio drivers for bigger boxes. You must know the Qtc for your sealed enclosure 0.707 gives the deepest F3, a lower Qtc has more output but some higher F3 and higher Qtc gives also higher F3 and a bump in output arround 100hz or so . Qtc depends on the driver you use in the sealed box, a car audio or a home audio subwoofer in the same size box have a different box Qtc. The best for me is a Qtc between 0.8 and 0.9 it gives a very small box and with dsp you can also tune the sub easy to 20hz+-3db. My DIY sub with a Qtc around 0.8 has dual opposed 12 inch Scan Speak discovery drivers on a Hypex FA501 plate amp, tuned deeper and flatter than a SVS SB2000 subwoofer. Intern its the same as a Sigberg 10D subwoofer with bigger drivers, it looks like the Arendal 1723 2S and with a 500 watt amp the same output as the Arendal 1723 1S subwoofer @20hz. But with a higher Qtc you can feed the woofers much more watts before it beats itself to death, way above the specs for the drivers. A 12 inch Scan Speak discovery woofer in a Qtc 0.6 box kills itself with 200 watt, but the same driver in a Qtc 0.85 box can handle 500 watt easy.

Sealed sounds better across a large frequency range. Ported is substantially louder at the tuning frequency. It is what it is. One thing no one ever mentions is that you need a stronger box for ported. They build way more internal pressure than sealed. Another thing to consider is that sealed boxes make the speaker easier to blow with frequencies below tuning. Generally not a big problem with low tuned boxes, but if you're running a turntable, microphone(s), or showing movies, you can intruduce inaudible subsonic frequencies that can absolutely blow your speaker. Sounds below box tuning frequency will make the driver absolutely lose control of itself. And distortion is what usually blows speakers. Moral of the story is, if you run ported boxes, use a high pass crossover at the tuning frequency or slightly above it. Even a basic FMOD is excellent, cheap insurance for ported boxes. My ported subs are tuned to 30hz and i run a 40hz higg pass FMOD. At 12db/octave the difference is inaudible. But my subs are nicely protected.

Sealed enclosures have a much better impulse response, and thus perform better especially when it comes to percussion. It tends to feel "tighter" and more accurate. If you just want lots of low end, sure go for the ported. But generally speaking, the sealed enclosure will feel more musical, which will ultimately sound and feel better.

Nice video. It was a refresher for me. BTW 3 dB may be 2x power, but it is barely audible. As another said, porting will allow for smaller enclosures. I prefer sealed myself.

Another great video

Putting a subwoofer with lots of linear excursion and high power handling/mechanical resilience in a small (sealed) enclosure is common and useful, as long as you achieve your desired target function by utilising a DSP/EQ or something akin. This principle is widely known as "Under Resonance Principle Subwoofer", short URPS. It works totally fine if you know what you're doing.... With cheap DSPs and cheap powerful amps, the size of sealed enclosures doesn't really matter anymore. It does matter if you're trying to manipulate your speaker with its enclosure only...but who does that anyway?

An observation: when you stacked the three builds at the end, the added depth was representative of the gain in low frequency on the graph.

Interesting. I was just wondering how to cram a subwoofer into my teensy minitruck. Thanks.

This gentleman is a wizard!👏🏻🤘🏻👍🏻

I just downloaded this I built my boxes by ear till now I'm wondering how good I have been doing

Very nice video, big like ,you can put inserts on the back side!

When I made my first Speakers, I was told to size the Enclosure at 9 cubic feet. That works so well.

Depends on speakers parameters. Some speakers do better or can only be used in sealed enclosures. This is not a black and white scenario.

11:56 experiment with low density/size plugs for a compromise. get rid of port noise and greatly increase cone control

Small sealed enclosures work in 4th order bandpass applications where you put more than rated power to a woofer, it helps play lower frequencies and not lose cone control

Great video

i have a 10" ds18 car subwoofer rated down to 30hz and the manufacturer recommends about 1.25-1.4 cubic feet, my enclosure is only about 0.8 or so it's very small it's a ported pre fab tuned to around 47hz because I've never built a box I'm worried to try and fail and since I'm on a very tight budget at the moment (broke 17 year old struggling to make money😂) it hits nicely especially at 40hz i still would've expect it to hit louder but probs the box and above up to about 59hz or so any higher and it looses bass badly (because the box is custom tuned lower because it was originally tuned way too high) and anything under 40 the bass starts to get quieter until about 32hz then at 30 and 29 it gets even more quiet (which is the lowest it can play) anything lower is bad harmonics even at anything lower than 36-38 can't be heard if you're close to the subwoofer you have to be in a certain position in the room for it to become actual bass and not just harmonics, do you think my box is the problem? (should also mention the thickness of the mdf is 0.69" and sometimes under heavier loads it can flex a little) I'm pretty sure it is just wanted to confirm LOL

Nice!!

If you have an issue in the future with inserts sitting proud of the baffles mating surface consider countersinking the back of the sub granted the subs mounting ring has ample material to remove. If the IDs of the mounting holes are fairly close to the maximum OD of the inserts the less of a chamfer/ countersink will be needed. Anyway great content man, you really can't beat hard numbers when explaining theory. Keep up the good work.

I have Sundown SA12 v2"s CRAMMED into a box under my seat in my silverado extended cab, it was a down firing box, I put 1 1/8 mdf to block the bottom hole and cut holes in the top and then added 1" spacers AND had to grind the mdf to fit the magnet. It dose hit hard but I wonder if it would hit harder with shallow subs or just sound way cleaner. I'm going for as much feelable bass as possible, I'm obnoxious lol

Back in the 70's i had pioneer 5.5" door speakers? And made outa 1×6 boxes just big enough for the speaker to fit the baffle. Open back, luckily just tall enough to lock in the back window of the nova standin up facin forward. Open back rules. Later I put a back on and even my buddy said they were louder open back

That was fliping awesome and love you2 😂 ❤ bye bye

If you just don't have the room you can get back lost output with more power. Smaller enclosures have more control over the woofer letting it take more power. In this instance I'm not sure you would hear much of a difference being that 3db is the smallest difference in sound we can hear.

I have 2 skar vd-10s in my single cab, I’m 6 foot 1 at 16 and the Dakota is probably the smallest of the single cabs so my box is tinnyyyy. But the system absolutely slams, rap sounds good country sounds good.

I would like to see this done with poly fill vs eggcrate foam . Biggest thing is to see the gain or loss of output and quality .

Thanks was looking to create a spacer instead of buying or baffle now I know how to make my sub box is way too small for skar 8" ix8 magnet is beefy

thanks ❤❤❤

Great videos! How good/bad are these under seat subwoofers and do you have recommendations for a custom built box for something better?

Excellent

When using inserts take the time to chamfer the drilled holes. The diameters are too large to sink the insert flush by force only. It also helps to let the insert engage perpendicular. And screwing them in properly is also better controlled when using a battery screwdriver. You get even more control when you screw some threaded bar into the insert from the back. Now you get something that you grab on to to keep your insert on perpendicular course. Just make sure the threaded bar is not in too deep because it could interfere with the hex key you are using to screw it in.

What should be the dimentions for, Wedge, Sealed, Speaker Box for DB SA-302D2, 12" sub woofer woofer ?

I would love to see the difference (if there is any) in the shape of the box. Specifically for a behind the seat truck box.

All 3 sealed boxes can produce the same results with EQ/transform, but the small box needs more power to do it and may begin to stretch the limits of the thermal power handling of the voice coil if driven hard. A vented enclosure will have to quite a bit larger than sealed for a woofer like this to handle the air displacement without chuffing noise (the port itself will likely have to consume more space by itself than one of the smaller sealed boxes). You could put a pair of these subs into a sealed box the size of the single-driver vented box and achieve similar results with EQ/transform. Or... do what I did and put the UM-10 in a bass horn enclosure. ~25-80hz with ~95dB@2.83V sensitivity.

"Thanx so much for share.