That is exactly what I was going for! My only regret is that I think I tuned it a tad bit too low.

​@@DIYAudioGuy yep. most of these subs with limited displacement need a higher tuning to get real music to pop

@@blakebrockhaus347 I think I ended up tuning this one a little bit too low.

@@DIYAudioGuy smaller the box, the higher the tuning frequency should be.

Rather than using a shallow 10, I think a normal 8” sub would yield better results. While shallow subs have their place & convenience , they have their limitations from what few I have fooled with.

More to come!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you very much!

Awesome! Thank you!

If it works, and you're happy with it, don't change your thing.

That sounds about right.

As soon as I figure out a reliable way to figure that out I will.

@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you sir you have earned my loyalty as well as my subscription dollars

The extra cone area definitely helps.

Rn I got a 96 single cab and with 2 10s behind the seat I def need more room for myself

Honestly, I am not sure. I have heard the same thing but have not seen any tests.

I think you're right, on all accounts.

Good bass in a truck is a real challenge. There just not much space to work with unless you want to go wild and pull out seats or do a blow through.

@@DIYAudioGuy Yeah, that’s my bottleneck. I was looking at the new kicker CompRT, and viewing your channel for box build ideas. I am wondering if 4-6.5’s would be a contender under the bench seat. I dig your videos, and an now a subscriber. I am sure I will find a plethora of knowledge here

@@iamgriff I am not a big fan of small subwoofers. They just can't get as low. But if that is all that will fit then that is your only real choice.

What does any of that have to do with stuffing a subwoofer behind the seat in a standard cab truck?

There's no Harding fast rule, you just need a big enough Port opening to prevent port noise. In this case I used two 2-in ports because I just happen to have 2 inch PVC pipe laying around and a single 2 2 inch Port would not be big enough.

Not a video where I build one, but it is a good solution to the thin box problem. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y9lna7x1qd2mYH0.htmlsi=1oeJ0G3w_VcqYME7

Patreon.com/diyaudioguy

💪

WinISD

Have you ever crunched the numbers to see just how much space you would gain by using smaller material, versus how much space the extra bracing would take up? There's always a trade-off.

I wonder if that type of construction would change the frequency response or the way it sounds.

@@DIYAudioGuy the trade off in bracing is actually time taken, for you can use relatively thin pieces - kebab sticks almost, as end to end (compression and tension) rigidity is much greater than transverse rigidity. If you don't have a fascination for performance that defies weight and size, it might not be worth it. Wooden strips from a hardware store work surprisingly well but are climbing in prices a lot. Curved surfaces are also a lot more rigid, although they might not pack well into a certain space, and do need to be made out of a special flexible plywood - with a thin centre grain for flexibility in that direction, and thick outer grains for rigidity in the other direction. I made some bookshelf speakers and the sides of the box were 1/8 of an inch birch plywood - no joke! Okay the front and back, top and bottom were 1/2" offcuts, but the sides didn't even ring when I rapped them with my knuckles after the battens had been glued on and a cross batten for good measure. Actually I can't even remember if I added a cross batten as the box was only about 7" deep. I have a subwoofer box built of 3/8" plywood for a 12 and the external dimensions are 18" x 18" x 22". It's a high efficiency PA 12" so needs a bigger box than a car audio driver. The ports are 45 degree triangles in each corner. There is a ring shaped baffle brace and a couple of strips on the back of the box. The other box is 1/2" ply with similar bracing pattern except no recessed baffle and a cross of two pieces on the back wall. The weight of each box with neo driver is about 35 lbs. Of course, MDF does need to be thicker for the same rigidity and doesn't take damp nearly as well, or screws into end grain, or even glue into end grain, which is why I prefer to work with plywood for everything except neatness of finish. Also, plywood offcuts are better for bracing than MDF is. I love the smooth surface of MDF for painting without it looking like plywood grain underneath. There is a lot of poor quality plywood around though in UK, and it's not even that cheap in price.

@Tipman2OOO if you can get it rigid it shouldn't do. If you're getting panel resonance then you'll lose output and might hear other noises.

Yea, that's why I got into DIY. This is the best drop in solution, squeeze in a pair of the 12s if the will fit. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y9lna7x1qd2mYH0.html

@@DIYAudioGuyThank you for taking the time to respond. I was looking at that box. Just stumbled across your channel today so I’ve subscribed and I would like to contribute also.

That should do the trick.

A lot of people have been asking for them. I guess I should draw up some plans and post them in my store.

Apposed* to using space…

You might be able to, but it will be a real challenge. You don't have much space to work with, so the physics are not on your side.

That is a tight fit. I have not seen the inside of one of those in 15 years, so I cannot say for sure what you can do.

Well thank you for getting back to me. I do appreciate it.

You can just do that math by hand, I always do it in a spreadsheet just because I do this a lot and it's easier to set up the formulas in the spreadsheet and plug in numbers as needed.

@@DIYAudioGuy awesome thanks

One of these? lddy.no/1ef7c Looks like it needs 1.25 to 1.75 cuft of airspace. If you have the airspace it will be a lot better (more total cone area, more power handling, more X max). But if you try to cram it into a tiny box it will sound like crap.

I cut a window into the brace, just did not get it on camera.

@@DIYAudioGuy ok. I tried going back and re watching the final assembly and from the angle i couldn't tell if it had a window or not

@@joshuaranks3950 7:44

It is supposed to be just one direction.

@@DIYAudioGuy, Ok for the TS parameters if it says 22 mm that is only one way? Or is it full throw and I half it to enter into the file? Apologies for the questions, I want to understand this stuff, your channel is awesome and has the little stuff nobody talks about

It is just one that I threw together for the video, took about two or three minutes to type in a few formulas.

I think that was in the manual.

How does it sound.

@@DIYAudioGuy sound great for not being able to see any of it the lows are okay but could be harder but for shallow subs not to bad 💯🎶👌✌️👍🥂

parts-express.sjv.io/b3BEDP

You are fighting against physics. So don't expect a massive improvement even if you throw a ton of money at it.

No idea. I am only able to work on my own vehicles so unless I buy a Tacoma I may never know.

The tuning frequency is not going to be your peak spl.

Do you have a video explaining tuning frequency? 😂 I've seen most of them but haven't found that yet.

That should give you enough airspace for a single 10. You will probably want to use a passive radiator in order to make the most out of the available space.

That is what it is made for. Just keep in mind that small subs in small enclosures (no matter the brand) will always struggle. No car audio company has yet to figure out how to break the laws of physics.

@@DIYAudioGuy thank you for the advice.

it becomes undersized and has bad extension. But some people make small sealed subs and use DSP to get bass extension

@@FSXgta and then the dual 10" has all the advantages, better sound quality for same size box, and goes deeper in frequency.

@@sudd3660 nah

I had the plans when I have time.

I did not make plans since most people will need to build the box to fit the vehicle. But since there is inerest in it I will see if I can bust out some plans when I have some time off near Christmas. I will drop you a link when I get them finished.

Ty very much its to fit behind seat of an 89 f350 single cab ..an they dont have much room

Note that I know.

I've noticed that and I started compensating whenever I build my boxes. I get the same problem when I use the formula for port length as well. I find it if I want a 34 Hertz enclosure that if I design it for 36 Hertz I tend to hit 34 pretty reliably.

Even with the seat lift it is hard to build a good box under a seat.

I cut out a big hole in that center brace.

@@DIYAudioGuy my bad , cant see the hole in the vid. nice work shop by the way.

That's what I thought too . But i guess we didn't see that part. 😂😂..oopsy

My thoughts as well. But, even if it was cut out, and we didn't see it, it couldn't be much left to cut out. Would affect the wave, and also would have a little more back pressure. Some half round, stand outs on the back wall, to support the ports, would have probably helped the performance of the driver, and it wouldn't "choke" the driver as much. I think there would be more standing waves, and cancelation issues with it..but idk.

Could have also, just cut the brace off, from above the top port. Leaving more internal volume exposed.

WinISD doesn't have any way built into it to account for the space that you put the subwoofer in. My guess is that you've got a problem with a standing wave and that's giving you some form of cancellation inside the vehicle. To be honest I'm not really sure what you can do about that.

@@DIYAudioGuy also, i just remembered something, knowing that the car is a convertible, the only connection between the interior of the car and the trunk is the skipass. Should i make the subs facing the interior with the port, or should i have them facing the trunk with a spacer between the skipass and the box, so that it doesn't cover the hole?

@@alexnechi3053 I've had the same problem happen on a BMW. You need to have the sub facing the skipass, doesn't matter if your box is sealed or not. The difference was day and night for me.

That's just how things go when you are one man operation.

Lowes 😂

In my opinion the shape does not matter. I am sure that somebody could make up something extreme where odd shapes make strange second chambers or transmission lines, but for the most part it does not matter.

@DIYAudioGuy thank you so much for replying and clarifying. That's what I run into when reading was how the air movement behind one half the speaker with lots of room vs the other half would be different and all the horrors that go with it haha. Free solobaric L7 12" so I'm just gonna send it. Was suffocated in a 1 cuft box before so anything should be an improvement

You can.

@@DIYAudioGuy Reason I am asking is cause I have limited space. I mean my trunk is large. It is a Lincoln MKZ but since I need to put a wheelchair in the trunk sometimes I am trying to find out how I can get the most bass but meet my needs with space. I'm not sure what I should do.

@@matthewearl9824 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y9lna7x1qd2mYH0.html

I did not show the process in the video, but you can see as I'm assembling the box that I cut a large window in the brace.

I struggle with carpet. I need more practice.

Odd, that's not something I have any control over.

Thanks. It’s weird. It comes and goes. Enjoy the content.

👍

Not sure what you mean by wasted box.

I think he doesn't realize u cut a window into the port brace so to alot of viewers it looks like you have a box with 2 chambers.

I did not have one that was 2 and 3/8 OD.

What part do you not understand?

Thanks