Stacking the modules horizontally created a myriad of technical difficulties. Now I know why everybody on the DIY powerwalls fb group stacks them vertically. The modules are under compression, I used some of the brackets from inside the battery as 'bookends' along with spacers and washers in between each individual module. One terminal was somehow damaged during the assembly process though. I found out when I was putting the bolts through the busbars and threw some sparks, indicating a short INSIDE the module. I had to disassemble the first row, remove the module, and reassemble it. Then tweak the busbars as the spacing had shifted somewhat. After removal, I fully inserted the bolt into the shorted battery to test the limits of these modules safety. No real dangerous effects observed. The G1 modules are, . . literally unbelievably safe to use in home powerwalls. My advice to you: Use vertical module stacks. And mill oval holes into the busbars (not circles) to allow for a mm or two of shifting even when bolted down. I know you will build an incredible stationary storage set-up some day!

Nice work man. Adaptability is paramount in this process. My suspicion is that the guy I got the override code from, knows somebody who works at Nissan who is probably not supposed to give those codes out ;)

@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions "Nice work man." the code came from...leaf spy!, I read the DTC's and the P-code appeared in the box. I then deleted it and car was back to normal but with a 10 bar battery.

Someone actually contacted me and bought the entire (battery-less) car for $1500. He's using it in a conversion project. I was over the moon to not have to spend the next 2 weekends dismantling it and shipping parts, all though there are a few people mad at me on the forum. It was a great project to get me comfortable working with the Leaf battery. At some point someone will have to be the first person to attach a custom MPPT charge controller straight from roof mounted solar to the Leaf battery. I have a suspicion that person will be me, so I better start getting comfortable working with them.

@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions Hahaha awesome! And don't worry I'll test it on my battery first 😛 Last I heard the build should be done in another week...

When we get our Cybertruck (2022 hopefully) I ain't gonna risk voiding the warranty on that thing. It's too expensive. The Leaf is perfect for a project car, or people with a very limited budget who want to drive electric, because it's so cheap. Thanks for watching, without people like you I wouldn't get the clicks to get KZfaq's advertisers' to pay for these experiments.

That should work well. Recruit an adventurous buddy to help you out too. There's not too much too it, but an extra pair of hands would be helpful

I don't understand the panic either. We all parked ICE cars in our garages for years. Everyone of which has a comparable combustion risk

I would need the current risk of fire to at least double before it would enter a statistical risk area that I start to consider "dangerous". It's possible that 10 Bolts catch fire today, in which case I would retract my "endorsement" (do you even get to use that word if your channel is this small) of the car, and stop parking it indoors. But then again if 10 Bolts catch fire today, we will all be part of same insane class action lawsuit where GM buys our cars back at purchase price, so either way we win. Your right about the battery swap being ideal though. I think LG makes the Bolt pack. Hopefully they want to step in and prevent further damage to their reputation.

30 and 40kWh is plug and play. 62kWh needs extra brackets.

I'm just bought a long bolts instead original ones what holds a battery. Using them as a guide pins unil battery is all way up/down. And 2 jacks. It makes it easy. Yes, 30 and 40 are bolt on, but you need a can bridge to make it work.

@@pashko90 you don't need a bridge to make it work anymore, unless you don't want to see flipping estimation between range remaining, and range when battery is full on your instrument cluster. That's potential £650 saving here, and I would live with flipping numbers 😅

@@vladzis flipping data is not only one problem here. Ze0(11-12 cars) will not gonna even strart with a pack from 13+. Is it something what can be fixed with lefspy right now? On 13+(aze0 24 and 30 kWh) cars packs from ze1(will start only ones per batery connection with bunch of codes about communication. It is someting what leafspy can do right now? Where i can read about it? I was thinking what they just added function to fix p3102 troble code(invalid battery).

@@pashko90 it's beta version, but yes, you can do this now.

He should have sold the car so that someone could drive it instead of it getting destroyed.

Im actually amazed nothing has broke for the last year since I posted this video. The inverter, batteries, roof rack, and panels, havn't missed a beat. I really like using batteries that have a built in bms. The Valence batteries I have been using have been incredible, as has the Giandel 12v inverter. You really don't need to add much range at all, so as little as 3 kwh of batteries should be plenty

@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions thank you for the response, greatly appreciated. The vehicle I'm looking at has 6 bars on the battery. I'm guessing that it would continue to degrade, amd a new or refurbished battery would be needed within a year or so.

Do you have detailed build instructions on yiur patreon?

@@jaydub5728 All my Patreon posts are open, so anyone can see all of them. Patrons support me purely altruistically and receive no hidden perks. Refurbishing a battery pack requires being able to source lightly degraded modules. This has become, to be perfectly honest, impossible, unfortunately. But there are some tricks to slow the rate of degredation of your 6 bar Leaf

Happy to have been of assistance. Reach out to me at the contact email listed in the "About" section of this KZfaq channel. I will give you the contact info of a friend of mine who can probably help you.

Thats a tough one. The actual voltage range of a 14s pack is 44.8-58.8. So 60v is not out of the question for 7 modules in series. The voltage you build to really depends on how much power you are planning on pulling out of the pack. For a small house 48v would work fine. If I were going to build a battery bank for supplying off grid power to a house, a shop, a greenhouse, etc. I would want to increase the voltage so as to reduce the amperage (which tends to be the more problematic of the two to work with).

We have to lift those with a jack too 😆

Life situation changed. I am no longer a two car (or person) household. Since it's just me, I had to get a vehicle with more range. This was one of the funnest builds I've done in my life though. Huge success as far as proof of concept. I drove it for years before I sold it to someone else. Now I mainly do consulting work for people who reach out to me through my contact e-mail. As car prices start to come down again and we get more and more used EVs on the road, I think a lot more people will start tinkering with vehicle mounted solar

My understanding is that it only works for swapping to another 24 kwh.

We spoke briefly a year ago. I tried to buy a CAN-bridge from them but ultimately went another route. I really like the work they are doing know with retrofitting a cooling system into a Leaf battery pack. That is genius, and work worth doing. Great team

You can't really anymore. Maybe try Nissan, but good luck. All available batteries now come from wrecks. The car I took mine out of was sold to someone who was doing an EV conversion using the donor Leafs electric drive train.

There are companies that sell new packs for LEAFs. Search for this video: "Nissan Leaf battery replacement and upgrade project"

My Leaf is a 2011. The donor battery was from a 2014 warranty replacement I believe

@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions So, everything working just fine? Can it charge at 6.6 wkh at level 2 charging station? Or only charge at 3.3 wkh

Replacement was 11 bar battery. Range at 55 mph on flat ground with no headwind is about 65 miles