Stealth saw all the meme ships people sent him and said, "I have to teach these people how to do it right."

The plan: nice and short battleship tutorial. The result: this giant of a video Hope it's useful anyway.

The real difference between the different citadel schemes is the purpose they have. The turtleback armor scheme is basically a additional plating behind the main belt that is leaned on the citadel (the top of it is attached to the top of the citadel while the bottom is attached to the bottom of the main belt under the waterline, it's called turtleback because if you look at the armor from the front without the fore belt it looks like a turtle shell. The purpose of this is defend especially against close to medium range fire where the shells come with an almost flat trajectory. The main belt slows the shells with it's thickness making them lose some energy and penetration value and then the inner angled plate bounces them upwards so that they exit through the main deck without exploding in the best case, if they do explode, they damage the upper compartments which is still better than a direct citadel hit. It was especially used by german and french BBs historically. The all or nothing scheme is basically about protecting the most vital parts of the ship in great priority while sacrificing the protection of less important parts, so basically, very strong main deck with multiple layers, very strong main belt and the rest is futile. It's quite risky because it's basically intended to block all damage head on, quite the opposite the turtleback which is more intended to "redirect" rather than block. While your citadel is pretty garanteed not to take any hits unless you face very big caliber guns, any shells that manages to pen will cause full penetration damage since it's basically impossible to overpenetrate such an armor layout. But unlike the turtleback that focuses on main belt defense, this layout does that a very strong multilayered deck which makes it very resistant to plunging shells (long distance fire basically). So long story short, if you're making a brawler BB that's gonna fight at close range and take lots of hits, use turtleback. You want a BB that fights at greater ranges with big caliber guns, then use citadel V.

31:52 "Although for what this costs, I generally take at least 1." Stealth says as memories of Regina's Last Stand come unwanted to the forefront of his memory.

when deciding on barrel number per turret it needs to be said that a higher barrel count reduces the amount of required turrets to reach the desired number of guns and with it the weight of the ship. 3 tripple turrets bring 9 guns to the table while twin turrets require 5 to get the same result. the more turrets the more weight and the bigger the citadel which increases the weight of the ship even more.

For new players: Superstructure armor is one of the most important armors to have. You don't need a lot, but you can't have zero superstructure armor. In the German Big Guns campaign (about a year back I think) the light cruiser Ariadne sunk a whole battlecruiser (possibly multiple). Her armament was some 7.9 and 3.9 inch guns. The only way she sunk those battlecruisers was because they didnt have any armor on its superstructure. So moral of the story, always put armor on your superstructure. Even just .5 inches can save you from that.

In my experience playing basically only the early years, fast battleships are more important than everything else because torpedoes are basically the only way to kill capital ships in a reasonable amount of time. Torpedo boats basically commit to suicide missions against larger ships and cruisers are just nice for dealing with whatever your battleships can't catch

I'd say speed matters quite a bit even in 1890. An 1890 battleship can't do much in battle besides the coup-de-grace with its derpy guns, but damaging/sinking/losing a BB in battle gives a lot of victory points. You always want to have some reasonable ability to disengage, or just don't bother building them at all.

For 1890 ships I always do single barrel. It increases the accuracy greatly. I do secondary's as well, because all you need is to invest in better optica such as stereo and your accuracy will be miles higher than the enemy. Those secondary's will start hitting with experience and better optics. I also add torpedoes and put them on aggressive. I don't expect to hit anything, but torpedoes generally scatter enemies. And if you fire aggressively you will fire first, Early on few ships will have protective stuff so a few good 10 or 11 inch hits, and especially below the belt, will sink even the biggest BBs. You might want to consider downgrading 2" guns to 1.1 inch. The fire rate will increase and with around 1 percent hit chance you are looking at lots of potential hits on TBs. They will have to get within 0.9 miles and you're looking at lots of shots down range. You can always refit a few years later when you have better stuff in order to add some speed, armor, protection and accuracy.

4:48 - A lot of those funnels you tried here will fit when holding down Ctrl

I like how you and me basically came to very similar conclusions to most build systems.

I've already ironed out my design philosophy pretty well, but seeing other people's is fun. Generally I like to build my battleships as reasonably priced, multi-purpose ships with minimum of 15'' belt, 30kn speed, and at least 15'' guns (late game). My battlecruisers I just try and build as fast battleships - their low resistance still means they struggle against dedicated bbs, but the battle-ship level armour lets them survive a lot longer. I might also build an Alaska-class style light battlecruiser with 12'' guns for cruiser hunting, but sometimes I build that on a CA hull instead with 11s. As for heavy cruisers, 9 or 10 inch guns for the added punch, in ABX triple or ABXY dual layouts. Light cruisers I tend to ignore because they're painfully fragile, almost as expensive as a heavy cruiser, and don't to anything a heavy cruiser can't. Destroyers I find work best with lighter armaments of 3-4 inch guns to pepper other dds, and I like to build all my destroyers as mixed gunship and torpedo boat, or dedicated gunship. I don't do full torpedo build destroyers because they're just to inconsistent and frustrating.

Really glad you made this, I was a little bit annoyed with the Japan campaign with a lot of the ship designs. I get some of them were meme designs, but even ones that aren't tend to go with the biggest guns over everything else. Little thought goes into weight savings, cost savings, what you're designing the ship to be facing, things like that. For instance, when I am doing my own Japan campaign I tend to start off with shorter-range ships, since I'm most likely going to be engaging in my home waters than abroad. I also don't focus on the biggest guns for my battleships, I'd rather have Mk.3 12-in guns than mk.2 14-in guns. The pen is enough pre 1915-20 that the accuracy and RoF is much more important. Not only that, but the weight saving from the smaller guns afford more towards either speed, armor, or more/better secondary guns. I also see a lot of people just stacking guns in every spot they can find, even on ships that would be just as, if not more, effective with a few less guns but more speed/armor. There's tons of other mistakes I see people making when trying to design an effective ship, like always maxing out the barrel length, going for better pen rounds over more damaging ones, and many more. I do fully understand that in the end the whole point of the game is to design a ship that YOU like, the way YOU want it, but when it comes to making a ship for sharing with others or for other people to use, it gets really frustrating. Really didn't mean this to be so long; basically just thanks for the vid, as always, and hopefully we will start seeing more practical and/or useful ships sailing the seas. Edit: In classic fashion, I realize *after* posting this comment that I'm being way too serious about this lol.

I just realized many dumb things i've been doing in this game for over a year

Me : "LAUGH IN WAR CRIME" Spam incendiary, watch screen filled with enemy sunk from extensive fire

I love the turbo electric drive+ batteries combo. It's so heavy, but you're so hard to actually hurt. They can make the green bar go down, but all the modules keep running.

You can make your design to combat large BBs or smaller cruisers, but in campaign mode you can't choose what the opposition will use, sending a cruiser hunter against a couple of BBs could be disastrous, therefore perhaps the better option would be middle ground designs rather than specialists.

Thanks! 😎

I have a thousand hours on this game, just the steam version. I've already crafted my own design philosophy. Still love to see how other people build and handle their warships.

First rule of YT: only comment after you listened to the whole video. Aaaaand I'll break it. Thing is, I'll make two remarks I realize might only apply to France, because 1890 France is basically overpowered. > With a tech-rush for Coinc 1, 50mm secondaries on French ships, glad to their wide fields of fire, will repel small ships and even burn bigger ones fairly reliably. So yeah, put as many of those as possible. Forget 100mm though, they are less accurate at very-short range (~1km, where you need them) and fire slower, which is bad to stop the small fry. > Until "induced boilers" is unlocked, speed should be around 17-18kn. Once "induced boilers" is unlocked I up it to 19kn but also, and crucially, long-range (for the range slider) becomes mandatory. Range decides if your ship gets in battle so, yeah. French ships have the added bonus of a very high range, it's easy to get them past 10,000km. But it's the slider that matters. I still struggle to tell, mostly because my campaigns have a hard time reaching that stage, how to handle the 1910 transition. Until 1910, close-range engagements are the norm. I know "coincidence" rules until Coinc' 2, but as a rule of thumb I switch to Stereo' 3 and stick to Stereo' from that point on, as ships are meant to stay at range by then -- enemy accuracy becomes too great, and your armor won't protect you so much anymore. Also, torpedoes. But I've yet to figure when to give up on 50mm to switch to either 100mm or 150mm secondaries. 150mm secondaries are my go to in 1930-40, the multirole turret by excellence, though again other players could correct me. I also notice that around 1910 I'm stuck with 300mm turrets for my BBs, and lack the firepower to really hurt my enemies. That's probably because I tech-rush rangefinders (and armor) for too long, so I would probably only tech-rush "Harvey" armor and up to "Stereostopic 3". (Exception being DDs who can't hit anything at range even in 1910, I think, so I would stick with Coinc' and 50mm for them even then.) Oh, and on ship class... The BB does everything. I only build TBs (and later DDs) for the campaign level: to screen against subs/mines, to help intercept and to protect/attack convoys. I also only build CAs for foreign station, and possibly to attack convoys. That's because, as said, French BBs can fend for themselves and pretty much do everything as well as any other ship, so why bother. Again, all of that is only viable with France, and the reason why I have so much trouble picking up another country where every BB hull feels worse to me. EDIT: regarding torpedo protection, "resistance" is what matters most to me. Resistance has an absurd effect (or at least had, back when I played later eras) that basically dwarves armor itself. It might be worth having a smaller armor for more resistance -- not sure about that. This is why, even though I expect zero torpedo hit, I always get torpedo protection up to anti-torp' 2. Past that it gets a bit pricey for me -- like triple bottom -- and I've yet to really play with that. The meta might incentivize going anti-torp 5 always, triple-bottom and drop armor for all of that. EDIT2: One more remark, on late-game secondaries: they are vulnerabilities for your BBs. You still need them, especially since CA/CLs may not want to stay near them for screening (due to collateral damage), but any secondary gun is an occasion for the enemy to pen'.

The only thing I would argue is Maximum bulkheads as a "must have." Standard is my standard, and has been for hundreds of hours in game. Losing a ship lighter than a cruiser to sustained fire is something that has not happened to me since... the old days of 100+ ship doom stacks. Still, max bulkheads is not a wrong choice, just a different way to allocate weight. I simply prefer to use that weight elsewhere.

I've been building my early battleships with very low draught. By doing this, the ship's deck sits higher in the water and I can just eliminate deck armor entirely, saving me a ton of weight. On the flip side you can build cruisers with low muzzle velocity to force shells to fire at a higher angle and hit deck armor. Later in the campaign ranges become much greater and plunging fire is inevitable, so this only works early on.

Only a descriptive error but funnels are exhausts not intakes, some say with intakes, they are then referring to the small curved pipes that are sometimes present, which seem to be for decorative purposes only, They also appear on some hulls, separate from the funnel(s). Like on the oldest hull you used on this vid. Good vid, bye the way.

I generally only build battleships for enemy battleships. I make cruiser navys. Battlecruisers, Heavy cruisers being the mains. with a good light cruiser destroyer screen.

Personally in 1890 campaign focus on smaller ships till you research Harvey Armour, no point in having a large quantity of BB's as it cost a fortune to refit the ships and become obsolete very quickly

People fear that they will abandon this game now, since they left early access, also the feature of dynamic hull creation never came into game and that was one of the biggest promises the devs made. I just Hope they will continue on this game and not just abandon it like their previous game or Cold Waters for example. But many people in the steam review hopes that someone makes a game with the same concept but in a better way.

Don’t forget it also depends on the person who makes it. I tend to while playing as the us I tend to go for speedy load outs for all of the class’s so they can catch anyone trying to run away and be capable to fight anywhere. Go for stability and when the shipyard max building space calls for as much room as you can get before loading it up. Also helps having plenty of secondaries and barblets to deal with smaller shops and with the bb’s I have a solid track record of them taking out destroyers by themselves with ease. Also helps with a trained crew though I do tend to keep the reload rate at standard and not go for the enhanced reloads cause I tend to go for the long range shootouts if I can and then get close latter.

They did announce a few days ago that the game is no longer in early access and is in full release.

Dude, I have never played this game but I'll be damned if I don't watch these vids anyways because you've got such a chill vibe. So easy to relax and just enjoy the explosions ❤ keep up the great work!

@Stealth17Gaming I LOVED the video! I've also watched BrotherMunro's guides and I may need to do a hybrid of sorts as, thanks to his videos, I SWEAR by geared turbines on everything. I think the beauty of this game is that once you learn the mechanics, you can be successful.

25:00 It can be useful on a battleship if you anticipate juking torpedo salvo, but probably not worth the cost relative to alternatives.

That was a very enjoyable and informative tutorial they should hire you for the job looking forward to the next one

the biggest disadvantage of long barrels is the low deck penetration, speed is a great DD defence reduce closing rate as you retreat, increasing number of shots

My general design philosophy: BBs: Tanks. I build them only as cruiser killers so I can maximize armor (especially torpedoes! I maximize torpedo protection without question), DD protection, and speed. Give them every protection against fire and flooding, particularly the former. I never give them torpedoes! Ever! I give them low draught so they sit high in the water and are less vulnerable to deck hits. I generally only build very few BBs (2-ish) as their main purpose is to be at the front of battles near my home waters. BC: Maximize operational range. These are your convoy raiders and defenders. They're also kiters: lots of speed and accurate, long range firepower. Dont brawl with them. Don't build them to take out BBs. They should kill convoys and cruisers from a safe range. I usually avoid torpedoes on them as well given their high range. I also give them copious amounts of small guns to deal with DDs. CAs: I build these as cheap BB killers. They should have very low muzzle velocity and high range to increase firing arc. More firepower and less armor is the order here (we want BB shells to overpen!). The intention is plunging fire into the deck armor. In later eras deck armor gets thicker and you have to switch to AP. If I can't pen deck armor with CAs anymore I either start building BBs that can or avoiding fights with BBs. I build everything especially fast so I can choose my fights. CLs: Standard gun ships. Their purpose is screening for DDs, torp spotting, and setting fires. I also try to minimize muzzle velocity as best I can in case I want to try to pen deck armor. Always have torpedoes. DDs: Come in two types: attached and detached. Attached DDs travel with task forces and emphasize utility (all have anti-mine and ASW) and operational range at the cost of speed. Detached DDs are spread everywhere near my home waters. They emphasize low cost and ASW. They sacrifice operational range for more speed to disengage.

the final ship version needs 3 of 3-barrel turrets for the main guns.

I am looking forward to one on destroyers, given that my newest game is struggling hugely with pitch and roll problems on a modern destroyer hull. Destroyer 3 can keep them down to 20% or less with 6x5 inch guns and 9x20 inch torpedoes, but the modern destroyer hull found itself struggling to match that on more displacement while struggling even more with pitch and roll (25%+). I don't have half as many problems with cruisers or capital ships as I do with DDs.

Thnx for this tutorial stealth! Would like more of them :) of op z’n oer-Hollands houwen zo!!

6:49 You kind of misspoke there. More modern armor is usually lighter and tougher, while being more expensive and later adding ship flaws. According to the description this should be the case here as well. bug?

CREW ACCOMMODATIONS "Cramped" and "Standard" and "Spacious" are primarily for establishing Ship Operational Range. "Cramped" Crew Accommodations are for Warships that don't venture very far from Home Ports. "Standard" and "Spacious" Crew Accommodations are for Warships that venture far away from Home Ports. 1890s Warship Designs are primarily Home Territory Defense Warship Designs; and, not Foreign Territory Invasion Warship Designs; although, Foreign Territory Invasion Designs are coming into being during this time period.

I have something to say usually enhanced reloading takes off 3-7s so in my opinion enhanced reloading is not worth it. Also good video.

problem with this is hitting the damn target and for some reason smaller ships can kill a battleship in period 1910

My best advice is aiming systems

"More advanced tutorial"😁

33:20 I hear this a lot: what's up with that description? Shouldn't ships have watertight doors already? You have to read the description a different way, the watertight doors are implied. No upgrade = normal bulkeheads and normal watertight doors Upgrade 1 = reinforced bulkheads and normal watertight doors Upgrade 2 = reinforced bulkeads and reinforced watertight doors. It's like saying "Reinforced bulkeads and (reinforced - implied-) watertight doors"

HI, thanks for the video. Can you point me to a guide where it explains the battle HUD. I am trying to figure out the colors and compartments and legends of the enemy (and friendly) vessels when you hover over them. Top right corner. I see the fire in some compartment. But I cannot understand anything at all.

Whats the strategy with barrel amounts? And why do you never use the side-by-side main gunds? Sometimes I put two one barrel main guns side by side. Is it too disadventegous?

I go anti-torp 2 for the pumping capacity boost.

all the engines have different cruise speeds. how much does that matter in game? diesel 1 for example has a cruise speed of 80% of the top speed while steam is at around 50%. would that give diesel a place over geared turbines for ships like battleships that want to keep a high speed to be harder to hit while wanting the cruise speed accuracy bonus as well?

Until the incendiaries are balanced in a more realistic way battleships stop being viable pretty quickly. It's just too easy to burn them down using fast firing guns on well armored smaller ships.

Anyone knows what that red area on the displacement slider is? It seems like if I keep ships below the red area, they don't bug out when I see them in the shared designs screen, but they seem to load right into battle anyway in skirmish. Some ships in the earlier periods have red all along the slider, so I'm just very confused why they have it there at all if it just causes bugs. It also seems to correspond better to historical displacements when kept inside the white, so it seems like it's meant to be a hard limit...

GUN CALIBER 03:20 - 03:43 You are wrong about the term "Caliber". 12"/38 -- 12" = Ammunition Diameter (aka Ammunition Size) -- 38 = Gun Caliber (aka Barrel Length in relation to Ammunition Diameter) Gun Barrel Length is 38 * 12" = 076 + 380 = 456 Inches => 38 Ft 0 In It is true that Infantry Weaponry and Land-Based Artillery does use the term "Caliber" to mean Ammunition Diameter. However, the USA Infantry Round .45/70 is representative of the Ammunition Cartridge Design; and, not representative of the Firearm Design. Your .45/70 Rifle could have a 13-Inch Barrel, or a 19-Inch Barrel, or a 26-Inch Barrel, or a 28-Inch Barrel; which, is dependent upon the Rifle Design that is being used. The .45/70 was primarily used as a Sharps Single-Shot Rifle Round; which, had a Fixed Barrel Length (I am not sure what that Barrel Length was). The 13-Inch Barrel Rifle and 19-Inch Barrel Rifle that I mentioned are primarily the Pistol-Rifle Designs; which, were Pistols that had Rifle Stocks as Accessory Items for better Barrel Stability for shooting at the longer Rifle Ranges that Standard Pistol Designs couldn't reach. KZfaqr "Drachinefil" specializes in Military Naval Warfare; and, could get into more detail than I can concerning Naval Artillery Weaponry & Ammunition. ULTIMATE ADMIRAL: DREADNOUGHTS Naval Gun Barrel Length Game System Mechanics isn't a good representation of Naval Gun Caliber Mechanics; but, it works at representing the Minimums and Maximums of Naval Artillery Gun Barrel Lengths. I surely don't know how to make a better Game System Mechanics for Naval Gun Calibers. 14:40 - 16:27 Increasing the Barrel Diameter also increases the Gun Weight; which, does include the Armor Weight for the Armor Rating for that Gun Turret. Increasing Gun Barrel Length also increases that Gun's Weight. Decreasing Gun Barrel Length also decreases that Gun's Weight.

I haven't played in over a year and then only briefly, so the guide was very useful in seeing what's been improved. The armor scheme fixes are massive and make much more sense. I'm curious what the rationale is for longer guns = longer reload times. Have to go back and watch Drach's video on rangefinders, but I know before seems like devs have it backward on better tracking with coincident vs. Stereo. I'm going to believe Drach before I believe these devs any day though. The last time I watched a UAD video from you Stealth, you'd given up on the system - guess the new patch changed that enough to revisit then?

You can get compound to work your just not as thick

Will you make guides for the other types too?

Mk 1 guns are effective when your target is land.

By the way Stealth, at the very end you say that the Game is in Early Access. I don't believe thats the case anymore and it is now fully released, for better or worse.

Alternatively you could use one of the many methods to build a cheese ship Although that makes the game really boring

So an experimental Battleship with 5 twin 9 inch mark 2s is not viable? Big sad

I wonder if anyone has put out a spreadsheet for this yet. This game is just begging for a good calculator.