You are a genius! I like specially the tool to finish the 90 degree folding.

Really cool! Whilst I'm not building a plane, I've been investigating construction techniques and I'm finding your videos very helpful for sheet metal working options.

I have th same press and jack; watching you work has inspired a much needed, and appreciated upgrade. I'm going to look for a small foot or hand actuated valve I can plumb into some hydraulic hose of the right size so a fitting can be put on the end, and replace the hand valve on the jack. My press is outside, but undercover, and when it's cold that valve on the jack bites into your hands so bad... of course, that's only when I don't have something in reach to open or close it. The problem is, with me, that's most of the time! lol I'll post the info on whatever valves I find for the press, in case, you want to do it, as well. I'm thinking foot release being the best, then you can be starting to get hands on with the material, as you are releasing the pressure. Enjoyed your vids. I'm cramming KZfaq vids on press forming, I want to do some, so I can do about forty feet of roofing I need to put a complicated end flange on. I've done about 6' by hand, and KNOW I don't want to do the rest by hand, and there amy be more, in the future as I'm not done with my roof, but about 50%. I'm having a difficult time picturing what I need to build to do a 15-27 foot long piece of roofing. I have to do it in sections, but I'm between doing the entire length a bit, then repeating, or doing entire press section in one go. Have to watch more metal forming, and get my head wrapped around it. Cheers...

I used inner tubes and cut 10 inch squares. I taped together 16 pieces and it ended up slightly over one inch in thickness. It worked like a charm with the HF air jack.

That tab tool is very clever. Making a forming block which allows for spring back can make removal of a part more difficult, adding to that you need to have different relief for each thickness of metal formed. Not that it cannot be done. But these are simple parts and the tab tool is a very simple way to make up for that. See part#3 for rubber pad part number.

这种设计太棒了

Very nice work, what kind of rubber did you use, and where did you get it !

I know I'm late, but from what I found in my research, this is a Polyurethane *RUBBER* Sheet. The Poly alone isn't rubbery. And McMaster Carr sells it, and it's the "amber" color that has the highest tensile strength, *NOT* the black which appears to be almost the same, but when you read through the specs the tensile strength of the "amber" version is much higher, everything else seemingly being close to equal. Since links tend to stop working over the years (and this seems to me to be a classic video that will be useful for years) Go to the McMaster Carr site and look up the category: *Abrasion-Resistant Polyurethane Rubber Sheets, Bars, and Strips* then look under the sub-heading... *Semi-Clear Sheets* And I think that's the same yellow rubber he is using. I'm actually placing an order for a piece myself (and boy is it expensive!) and I will update my notes here if I discover anything new. For those who want the link for as long as it's working, this takes you to the right page: www.mcmaster.com/urethane but there is still a little clicking to do from there. I really appreciated the video above, so I hope this helps other people who had the same questions I had. 👍

What kind of rubber did you use, and where did you get it?

Nice jig but why not make a draft angle of something 8 degrees on the wooden form to compensate for spring back so you'll save yourself the stress of having to square the flanges after the pressing, just my opinion. Tnx

What are the yellow and black materials?

O my shit!!

can you please give the part number of the rubber

What type of rubber you have used?