Is there a limit on forces one may apply by turning the wheel left to remove the ring nut? Specifically with regards to a carbon rim. Is there an alternate method for loosening if the rim is carbon? Should two people be torquing that hard on a carbon wheel?

Hi Thank you for your question. We don't have a maximum torque for loosen the ringnut. It's related to the torque the rider put on the nut while using the wheel. Sometimes we use as well two people, which is helpful as well to keep the turning direction aligned. A wheel which is build in a proper way should not get affected. As you maybe can imagine, the torque of a strong rider combined with gear reduction on a strong climb will put much more torque on the components while riding. Friso "DT Swiss".

So I'm still trying to remove the ringnut @4:00. I cranked with both arms counterclockwise and stopped out of concern of breaking spokes from the torque. I'm not impressed with this design. Thanks dt swiss. Anyone recommend another better hub system?

No dice. I'm about to take the wheel to lbs and/or take a syringe and inject grease into the bearing.

Was able to free it up by spraying the ring drive nut with Finish Line Chill Zone for 15 seconds. Needed more force, but it cracked free. Don't know if it was the extra force or the FLCZ spray or both. 🖖

Hi, thanks for your great feedback. Glad to hear it that you like our video! Kind regards, Sandro DT Swiss

of course DT could take some lessons on how to make HUBS from King...

​@@donaldriddle7138lol no

What did you use to heat things up, please don't say a naked flame ;-)

The first bearing MUST be the DRIVE SIDE! The axle provides the spacing of the bearings, NOT the hub flanges. The drive side shall be seated until the flange inside the hub and the non drive accordingly in the correct distance by inserting the axle, providing correct spacing.

Why camera is all the time on the guy instead of parts??? How its possible to be great video??

really, that soon?

But it's not exactly a "beginner" job. I don't really see what else they could do to make this more dumbed down. You can buy a clamp mounted vice for cheap online

my too:D

The only special tool you really need is the ring nut removal tool, for the rest you can easily improvise with sockets, washers, a length of threaded rod etc. Just remember to seat the drive side bearing first as this then aligns all that follows to its correct spacing, & do use the threaded rod bearing press method, rather than hammering on bearings, even if it is only on the outer race.

Hi Gerard, I would suggest to contact your LBS in order to have the hub serviced. Of course you could also do it by yourself. I can't judge from here if there was a mistake made by your mechanic. Kind regards, Christian, DT Swiss

They won't because they just want you to buy a new freehub body

Hi there Thank you for purchasing one of our products. Regarding your question, I think you're Talking about the ringnut, which is screwed in the hubshell. As you can see in our Manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf We do not use grease to mount the ringnut. We do know that it is sometimes hard to disassemble, but it will not change if grease is used. When you're Talking about the washer on the drive side, you mean the endcap? There should be a groove on the drive side but there is no one on the non drive side. If you think there is a Problem with your hub, please get in contact with one our service centers ( a list can be found on our Website ). Have a nice day, Friso, "DT Swiss".

but you're SUPPOSED to use a hammer on these disposable hubs. did you think these were Kings?

@Maciej Jan Długosz you're right, 'no self respecting mechanic' would follow DT's instructions...

Wrong. Mine (3 sets of 240s') won't come out with just hand force.

Not necessary. The difference is hub engagement. Take 360 degrees in a circle and divide by number of teeth. For 18t, that's 20 degrees, which means your crank can rotate up to 20 degrees before the ratchet teeth engage. For technical mountain biking, it's important to have immediate engagement--you don't want that "clunk" when you need power RIGHT THEN. Less important for road biking. Also, 18t are almost silent on an average ride--36t create an audible buzz. I don't have any 54t, but they supposedly buzz very loudly.

Hi, we assume you did remove the thread ring in front of the bearing. In case you have the hub only it may help is to put it into the freezer for a while and the try again with hammer and axle. In the worst case the hub Shell must be replaced. Best regards Kai

Why non lithium grease?

Some people use heat to warm the hub because the alloy expansion and then they remove the ringnut... just be careful when doing to avoid damage

Hi Peter, the CR 1600 wheel set is based on the 350 hub and the process is the same. We don't service freehub bodies, they are only available as entire piece with or without the right side end cap. Best regards, José, DT Swiss

You should be able to hammer out on the non drive side. The ring nut removal is only necesarry if you need access to the drive side bearing.

Hi Andreas, please write your request to service@dtswiss.com. Best regards, José, DT Swiss

yeah.. every video and read everywhere says the hub should just come right off by hand, yet to get mine off we had to really wail on the other side via the axle to get it off, and even then both bearings on the hub side were still stuck something good

Hi Dariusz, thank you for the question. A DT Swiss 240s CL SP Boost hub will use two 6902 bearings in the hub shell. The XD freehub will use two 6802 bearings, but we do recommend replacing the entire freehub if the bearings in it are worn (part # HWRAAX00S3114S). Kind Regards, Andrew, DT Swiss USA

@@dtswiss what about front there is 6903 mark but is not 17x30x7 why? What about EXP ratchet will be there any conversion kit from ratchet to ratchet EXP?

Hi Dariusz, a 240s "Fifteen" CL SP front hub uses two 1830 series bearings in the hub shell. The bearing dimensions are 18 x 30 x 7mm. Existing ratchet hubs cannot convert to ratchet EXP. Kind Regards, Andrew, DT Swiss USA

no

Old 350’s were 3 pawl now they’re all star ratchet thankfully.

Hi Svend Yes there is a DT Swiss Toolkit ractchet hubs available. The article number is HWTXXX00NTK24S. Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".

dtswiss hy guys. please tell me how to extract the 6902 bearings from my dt swiss 370 hub in order to replace them with new ones?! i remove the cassette freewheel from hub body but I can't remove the axle from the hub! I have a rubber hummer and a give a few punch but nothing, the old bearings are still in place. what can I do?!

dtswiss thank you very much for the instructions. dt swiss best team! :)

Hi Daryl and thank you for your message. All specific hub tools can be ordered through our distributors. As the needed tools are specific to the hub you're using, I would suggest to check our hub manuals, where the article number of the tools are included: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals Enjoy riding your Bicycle, Friso "DT Swiss".

Sorry I meant set OF dtswiss hubs and quite STIFF to turn, not stuff

Hi Matthew Your case is more or less impossible to judge over a computer via e-mail. There are so many different things which influence the effect your describing. As an example, a bearing should not spin to easy, when not mounted. In our case the DT Swiss hubs need preload from the axle to spin correctly. I would suggest to go to an experienced DT Swiss dealer and let him evaluate the function. Stay healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".

DT Swiss yes I have since done this. While it’s quite stiff to turn, it’s smooth and if held on either side the wheels turns freely. It seems there’s enough resistance to just stop the valve from ending up at 6 o’clock every time, but not much lore than that.

I just can recommand, if you think there might be something wrong with the hub, to contact one of our service centers. As I try to mention in my previous comment there is stil no possiblity to feel something through the WWW and there is as well no possible remote diagnostics on this. Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".

Yes I took it already to bike shop, guy there was familiar with dtswiss. He said it was normal

Did you get it sorted Mike? I have the same problem...currently soaking it in penetrating fluid.

@@jeffbeck1100 it took me 3 bike shops to get mine removed. i dont have a vice and couldn't do it at home. 1 shop didnt want to break hub. 1 shop didn't have vice that was fastened tight enough. 3rd shop worked out.

Hi Adam, first of all make sure the QR or thru axle is firmly tightened. There is no greasing needed since there are no touching parts besides the bearings but those can be replaced with the according tools. Here is the link to the manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000861S/MAN_WXD10000000861S_WEB_EN_002.pdf Kind regards, José, DT Swiss

​@@dtswiss I actually found it in this section 4.1.5 Maintenance of the Front Wheel Hub [350 Thru Axle] on your "HUBS TECHNICAL MANUAL RATCHET " manual. Kinda buried in there a ways. (dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf)

Hi Since I'm - so to say - "alone in the Alps" (not very far from the DT Swiss headquaters actually) I could only try to break the nut ring loose by myself. I tried different ways, levers etc. with no success unfortunately. Then I gave up and went to one of the local bike shops for a help. I thought that then they can try to turn the wheel with more than 2 hands but after a few tries the guy told me that he is afraid to break the wheel and he told me to send the wheel to DT Swiss :-). Indeed my rim/spoke combination (ZTR Arch EX and DT Swiss Aero Spokes) is rather built for low weight so it is rather volatile. However after giving it a few further thoughts I finaly suceeded to remove the ring nut :-) I have done this using the following trick: 1. I took old disc (my hub has IS6 socket for disc brakes) and mounted it on the hub. 2. I put the wheel with the disc facing down on a wooden workbench. 3. Using 4 screws I attached the disc to the workbench (through the holes in the disc. I used old formula disc that has nice roud holes on the side). 4. I put the nut removal tool with corresponding wrench accompanied by abut 1 meter long pipe. 5. Sitting on the workbench I applied pressure to the end of the pipe (it like a "rowing movement"). 6. The ring nut finally came off. :-) Anticpating the questions: no - there is no damage to the IS6 sockets, nor the dics screws. The disc is a bit bent so I would rather not use a brak new one disc for that... Actually I think that DT Swiss could create a tool for this. It would be piece of flat metal with 6 holes for IS6 and below a Center Lock socket. This would be attached to a bar (i.e. like a normal wrench tool). Using this tool it would be easier to remove the ring nut for the hubs with disc brakes attachment, without a risk to damage the wheel. Not to mention that it would save quite some time while servicing those kind of hubs. Kind regards

Hi Ricky, the article number for the ringlet tool 3pawl is: HXTXXX00N5266S. Enjoy riding your Bicycle, Friso "DT Swiss".

Hi there and thank you for your message. The bearings we and most of the other hub manufactuers are using get a grease package which should last the calculated Lifetime of the bearing. If the grease is worn out or old, the bearing balls and the running surface are normally worn out as well and the bearing need to get replaced completely. But if you use a search engine, you will find as well instructions how to regrease an industrial bearing. The procedure is the same for any Kind of use ( Skateboards, Cars, Bikes, ….). Enjoy riding your bike, Friso "DT Swiss".

Hi 2sixstreet, as I know RS and LU stand for the same but from different suppliers. We use bearings with two covers, on the outside a seal that has a sealing lip to the inner ring and on the inside a cover with a tiny gap to the inner ring. This reduces the seal friction by half. If the designation of the dimensions is right (6902) it will fit the hub. At least on the outside it should have a seal. Kind regards, José, DT Swiss

@@dtswiss thanks for the reply. Do you have a DT Swiss part number so I could source them please?

Hi 2sixstreet, the latest part number is HSBXXX00N2336S, Kind regards, José, DT Swiss

Exactly > how about front hub bearing removal process ?

Hi! You find all necessary information in our hub tech manuals. There you find a step by step guide with pictures as well: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals/ Kind regards, Christian, DT Swiss

I only got the ref HXDXXX00N1131S for a HU1900 rear

thank you very much If it's the process I do I just wanted to be sure of him

Hi Marek, we usually replace complete freehub bodies. Best regards, DT Swiss

dont waste your money - use a punch after moving the middle spacer aside. then pop in new bearings. both bearings have inner shoulders so you will be able to press them in just as you would with the hubs using a threaded rod. (dont forget the spacer in between!)

@@rexfest what size bearings are in the freehub ?

@@stevend99 for the 240s road rear hub, the bearings are: 2 x 6902, 2 x 6802. i forget which ones are for the freehub and which ones are for the axle. sorry.

Hi Stevend99, we use different bearing sizes for different purpose on our free hub bodies. For Hybrid they are bigger and for light versions smaller. Regarding service we don't change bearings on the free hub body. We change the whole part since not only the bearings are subject to wear but also the seat and thread used to fix the cassette. Kind regards, José, DT Swiss

with the DT, design there's nothing you can do about it!

@@donaldriddle7138 i think i set the bearings too hard. put new new ones in and its smooth. another point is that if the star nut is not fully tightened, which doesn't happen until afteryou start riding, the rear wheel will not spin freely. took me long time to figure that out.

@@frakafrocka I’m having a huge problem with the rear wheel “grinding” the ratchets hard and not spinning once installed on the bike. I’m stumped at this point. Never had an issue like this before. I have two sets of wheels with identical 350 hubs. The new set has been super loud, so I serviced it. After install, it barely rotates and the freewheel action is barely working. WTF is going on with these hubs?

@@energ8t was the ring nut installed backwards? That could cause the freewheeling issue

Hi Dip Thank you for your message. Without having the product in our hands, it is hard to make any analysis, wether it's normal or not. First of all you should check if you used all the parts and nothing left on or under the table. As well you need to make sure all parts are placed in the right direction, especially springs and ratchets. If you still have any concern about the right function, I would suggest to show the hub/Wheel to an experienced mechanic or contact one of our service centers: www.dtswiss.com/en/support/service-center/ Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".

dtswiss but will it be possible to fit old one on place?

Bearings get pretty messed up upon removing them and just from general wear and tear. They're really only meant to be installed once. If you're going this far with assembly you may as well just replace them. Standard bearings aren't that expensive and it'll save you time later of having to redo this to replace them. I'm not sure if DT swiss uses standard bearings, however.

If you want to clean them, do not remove them. Just use a pick to lift the seal, clean out best you can with IPA and brush (etc), then repack with bearing grease. Of course, def check for smooth rotation of bearings first. Many times my bearings are still good, but just need some cleaning.

dtswiss Thanks Chad 👍

Hi there Are you talking about the tools to remove the bearings or the replacent bearings themselves? For the Tools, costs are everytime depending on the numbers you're producing. Bearing replacement tool kits are usually not in every hobbyworkshop available but just with professionals. So there is just a premium Quality available and the numbers are small, compared for example with a chain tool. If your question is realted to the bearings themselves, here we have Special requirements for the bearings produced by the manufacturer. Those specific demands will lead in longer runtime but as well in a higher price. If this will pay off depends on what your expecting. Ride healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".

@@dtswiss Thank you very much for the quick reply. I'm talking about the tools. I can understand that the tools, because of low production volumes and premium quality, is higher in price than a more "standard" item. However, as a home mechanic, the price for a complete tool set (HWTXXX00NTK24S) at 330 USD is extreme compared to what you get in terms of items (some nuts and bolts). I would assume that when you promote a product (your hubs) as easy to maintain and service, tools needed to do the job safe would both be easy to buy and affordable. This is unfortunately not the case in my opinion. I know there are other much less expensive non-DT Swiss options available on the market, I'm just suprised that the option from you retails for a whopping 330 USD . I ride my bikes all year here in Norway, and the fall and winter seasons can be rough on components. I have 3 wheelsets, two of them with 240s and one 350, all in need for bearing replacements. As local bikeshops in my area are slim and their service charges is equal to Apple I prefer to do the job myself, with or without the DT Swiss tool kit.

Thank you for your honest feedback. I would like to ask you to consider as well, we're not a tool manufacturer and beside the ringnut tool ( HXTXXX00N5027S ) you don't need a specific DT Swiss tool. All the other bearing Tools are available from many manufacturers. Have a good day, Friso "DT Swiss".

@@kiddiboy1980 I agree that a better more affordable option should be part of the whole package design. More thought should be put into the final user of an affordable hub, including tools needed.

If the wheel got a good build it should work without broken parts. Friso "DT Swiss".

There will be no video for predictive steering front hub service but you can find this in our ratchet hub manual: dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/uploads/WXD10000000896S/MAN_WXD10000000896S_WEB_EN_001.pdf starting from page 22 Best regards

Hi Andrew, could be that there is bug in the contact form or you request has been sent to an invalid mail address. Please send your request to our headquarters, we will answer it immediately. We would also appreciate to learn to which country and with which topice you have sent your request to check what's wrong. Best regards, Kai

@@dtswiss Hi Kai, Thanks for your response. I live in the Republic of Ireland. Can you give me a contact email for MTB hub queries in Europe please. Thanks Andrew.

Hi Andrew, please contact the Service Center of your country here: Hawkswood Lane Killeigh R35 Tullamore Co. Offaly Irland P +3530876502177 w www.dd-mbrs.ie @ derickdavoren@gmail.com Best regards, Kai

Hi there, for sure a press would be even better. But I think there are not that much press available in home workshops where you can put a complete wheel in😉 We would like to show in this Video how you can do a replacment at home. As we even do the replacement that way on the race tracks around the world, I can tell you from my own experience it will work as well👍 Have a nice day, Friso "DT Swiss".

+dtswiss Of course it's nice to have all the tools and friends present when you need to torque the wheel to overcome the likely extreme lock ring torque... Although your studio is not perfect neither is a service shop. I still think it would be a valuable service to your customers to display the actual hub service with a "ridden" wheel. This will let them know what to expect under actual/practical circumstances. It would also be valuable if you would use a calibrated torque wrench record the torque requirement to undo the lock ring and mention that torque value. Is the Hub unit capable of handling the torque transmitted through a brake rotor into the six fasteners without damaging the hub housing? I ask this because I actually consulted with a professional wheel technician and he explained that they used the technique of fastening a used disc to a bench. The difference here is that the method shown in your video has the torque transmitted by hands on a rim and through the spokes into the Hub; however, using an old disc rotor would transmit the torque through the Threaded Fasteners into the hub. It seems that it is a worse scenario to transmit the torque through the spokes because spokes may be damaged in the process, whereas if the torque is transmitted through the disc hub there is no risk to spokes or hub, unless the cross section of the Hub, where the Fasteners transmit the torque is too weak to carry the load. Would you please report back from your engineering staff, the hub's allowable torque for each torque application site?

dtswiss Thank you. Clarification: I was referring to how much torque the hub assembly can tolerate (whether it is reacted by a disc rotor or by the rim/spokes via spoke flange of the Hub) in order to break free a ring nut before the hub could experience a stress failure (i.e. not the bolt torque). If two men struggle to apply enough torque (through your preferred rim/spoke load path or via the disc load path), I'm sure that adds up to a lot of stress in the hub. My concern is if this stress is too high for the Hub and which loading condition would allow for the highest applied torque without damaging the hub and/or spokes (if applied thru rim).

I hope you had a nice ride... 1) I am not looking for a "set value". I am looking for the max allowable torque that may be applied to remove the ring nut such that if exceeded could cause damage to the hub and/or spokes. 2) I understand you are trying to apply logic that the loosening torque can't exceed the tightening torque. It is conceivable that the loosening torque could exceed the tightening torque. For example, the tightening torque is applied gradually over time and due to various events (as you pointed out, i.e. shock loading during riding); however, things other than applied mechanical torque can cause the loosening torque to exceed the applied torque. For example, contamination (by ingestion of water/mud/grit) or corrosion at that thread interface between the lockring and the hub are examples of 2 things that are not related to the in-service duty cycle aspect of tightening torque. 3) Now that I laid a foundation for why torque may exceed your expectation, I'll get back to my concern about the max allowable applied torque for loosening. Given that the torque can be reacted by either the rim/spokes to the hub vs. the brake disk to the hub. Each of these cross-sections are different, thus there is a worst case (i.e. one has a weaker cross-section) of the two for transmitting torque and that weaker cross-section will be the 1st to fail and will not be preferred for loosening. Thus back to my earlier, unanswered question... (a) which of these 2 hub cross-sections is stronger and (b) how much torque can be applied to it before causing hub damage? Please forward my post to a DT Swiss engineer. Thanks.

Hello, sorry to hear your shop vise broke. Insert the tool as far into the vice as possible (use the longer wrench flats) and tighten as much as possible. We find that removing the ring nut is a two and sometime three person job. It helps to keep the tire on the rim for extra grip. Secure the ring nut tool ‘firmly’ in the vise, and leave the axle in the hub so that it goes through the tool. Turn the wheel with a sudden thrust of effort and it should break the ring nut free. Another method, and what we do at events when there is no vise, is to have someone hold the wheel vertically on the ground and put a wrench with cheater bar on the ring nut tool. Be sure to orient this so that the wrench is being pushed down. Please note the ring nut is tightened as a result of pedaling forces. We have never encountered a ring nut that we were unable to loosen using the methods above. Best Regards, Andrew DT Swiss USA

Hello Rodrigo, when the proper DT Swiss bearing installation cylinders are used as demonstrated in the video, only the outer race of the bearing receives any contact from the installation tool. Therefore, there is no damage to the bearing tracks. Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA

DT Swiss AG I'm sorry, I did not realize that your tool introduces the bearing to the outer face of the bearing. Here in Brazil unfortunately the staff still insists on removing the bearing, redoing the grease and returning the same in the hub. That's why removing the bearing through a hammer turns out to be harmful. But only in this case where the bearing is not changed by a new one. TKS for atention!

Hello Rodrigo, yes, we recommend replacing the bearings rather than attempting to re-grease them, because it is difficult to remove the old bearings without damaging the races. Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA

Hello County Cycle, thanks for the comment. The key to removing the ring nut is a large, sturdy vise. Clamp the ring nut tool as low as possible in the vise, and make sure the vise is very tight. Usually a couple people are needed to hold the wheel's rim and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the ring nut. We use this method and have never failed to remove a ring nut (and there have been some tight ones)! If you happen break the tool during use, please contact our distributor/service center Outdoor Gear Canada for a replacement. Kind Regards, Andrew - DT Swiss USA

I found the solution to this, but it requires a few days. Just before the star-ratchet lock ring 'undoing' stage in the video...Sit the wheel level with the ratchet side facing up. Block the hole in the bearing on the star ratchet side and fill with anti-seize spray until overflowing. Sit for 24 hours. At the end of 24 hours tip out the spray and put the axle through the back (inner edge) of the star-ratchet size bearing and tap swiftly a few times to jar the lock-ring. Repeat at least once (block hole, fill with spray, tap to jar lock ring again) and more if stubborn. You'll need a quality vice and if you hear the spokes creaking excessively (a little bit is okay) stop and repeat the process. I got there eventually without breaking spokes or the tool, but did shatter a cheap vice.

Hi Cornel, your right! But when laced into a rim, there are not that many option to do this with standard tools. We're doing it that way for decades and it is a prooven one. If you have a single hub only, it would work as well with a press. But this is not a common tool in any house workshop. Stay healthy, Friso "DT Swiss".

Hi John, with an impact hammer you need to know what you're doing😉 But the advice to ask an experienced dealer is the easiest way👍 THANK YOU, Friso "DT Swiss".

@@dtswiss my local mechanic is a professional and I know personally and professionally the effectiveness of applying some wd40 and then first low to higher power with the impact hammer. The impact hammer was absolutely much better then cranking the wheel manually with my hands and feeling the spokes tension up and creak. Thanks but you guys belong to corporate, we're out here in the real world. Happy landings \o/

Thank you very much. I hope you still can ride your Bike in these crazy days. Hopefully in Switzerland this was and is still possible. Friso "DT Swiss".

I just spent hours trying to get mine off, but i managed to do so with a neighbors vise - the wheels also have about 1-2 k on them and i was worried that all that pressure off the vise will damage the spokes or rim. It is quite ridiculous but im sure you can get it to go with the vise if you turn it (counterclockwise) hard enough. I had to lean my entire body on the turn before it popped loose. and that stupid hub seal that is seated surely doesnt help with braking the ring nut thread free.

@@rexfest Quick update. With the help of two of my friends (yes two) we were able to finally loosen the lockring. The wheel and spokes seem fine, just make sure that they are are in good true first (a rough proxy for having spoke tension in the recommended range). I have a spoke tension meter so I confirmed that way as well as on the truing stand. As for getting new bearings in, you could do a decent job of it with a soft blow mallet and a deep socket that's sized to make contact only with the outer race of the bearings. I used a slightly more elegant (I think) approach of using my BB press with the old bearings serving the role of drivers. That is, the old bearings are perfectly sized to make nice even contact with the new one so when they help push the new bearings in nice and smooth. You do have to do one final tap on the non-drive side however b/c the axle prevents you from using the press to fully seat the bearing (but you can get it in about 1/2 way with the press/old bearing method).

@@stuartsiegel2327 I just used a threaded rod to press in the bearings. i have a 3d printed adapter that i stack on with the bearing adapter for one side since the axle was poking out as you said, but all is well and i got the job done as well. Cheers to rolling on DTs! haha...

Hello Stuart, sorry to hear that there are difficulties removing that stuck ring nut. Please email us at info.us@dtswiss.com and we will be happy to email you some detailed removal instructions that should help. Best Regards, Andrew DT Swiss USA

@@dtswiss thanks for reply. I managed to get it off. I gave it a good WD-40 spray down, waited 24-hours and invited one of my biking buddies over for turning assistance. Between all that, it came off.

Hi, sorry to hear about the difficulty in servicing your hub. I've never seen a hub "destroyed" during bearing service when the proper service procedures are followed using the factory recommended tools. Please contact your local DT Swiss service center for further assistance. Regards, Andrew DT Swiss USA